Revolution
Introducing the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817
Zenith revives a watch that holds three of its most iconic creations in one chalice, in the form of the Chronomaster Revival A3817
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Revolution
SJX Watches
A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier
Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Limited Editions are inspired by skateboarding and tuna sushi
Seiko is known for reliable, robust and value-driven offerings – undercutting the prices of their competitors without compromising quality. They are also known for their creative collaborations, incorporating popular culture like Naruto anime into their designs. One of their latest partnerships is with the popular Japanese skate brand Evisen: the Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Limited Editions are inspired by skateboarding and tuna sushi appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Longines DolceVita Automatic makes a case for the sweet life
Recently, Longines had launched a new series of mechanical watches for the DolceVita series. We take a look and see how does the new Longines timepiece fare.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Reiser Alpen is a sharp, octagonal sports watch that oozes 70s jet-set glamour
My mum always taught me honesty first, so YES, the fresh and new Reiser Alpen has some octagonal details, and does remind us of a grail watch or two. But I still see it as a refreshingly sharp design, not a homage as such. Strong credit is due in this department to Reiser, as it’s … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Reiser Alpen is a sharp, octagonal sports watch that oozes 70s jet-set glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Fast vs. Slow, Hertz vs. VPH: Your Watch’s Frequency Explained - Reprise
You may be familiar with numbers such as 18,000 vph, 28,800 vph, and even 36,000 vph describing the frequency of a watch’s regulator, but few really know what those numbers mean. Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why watch frequencies matter, but he oscillates in choosing a winner. Follow the discussion here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger
We’ve seen a bit of a heritage binge in the watch industry with vintage-inspired timepieces becoming a dominant trend throughout the marketplace. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph is a blue dial pilot’s watch with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J
Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand
There are only a few watch brands that call Australia home, but one of them is Bausele in Sydney whose timepieces take some inspiration from the land they were born in. The Bausele OceanMoon IV is the latest release in the collection of dive watches that have been in the brand’s catalogue for more than … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
100-Year-Old Seppeltsfield Para Vintage Tawny 1918 Port: Truly Extraordinary - Reprise
There is, quite simply, no other wine in the world quite like Seppeltsfield's 1918 100-Year-Old Para Vintage Tawny Port-style wine. Where else could you hope to find a wine whose current release is the 1918? It exists, but only thanks to the extraordinary vision of one man.
Time+Tide
A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality
Handmade. That term, alongside hand-finished, is often thrown around in watchmaking, but the term is often misleading. It is very rare that a watch is 100% handmade, and those that are even predominantly handmade usually command incredibly high price tags due to the time-intensive process of fabrication. But what if I told you that a … ContinuedThe post A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Geneva’s Auction Week May 2021: Record Results And High Notes, Especially For Independent Brands
Geneva’s second round of pandemic-era May auctions brought some fascinating offerings out of the woodwork. And people are buying watches at auction like there is no tomorrow. While Rolex and Patek Philippe models brought in most of the high-roller results, the three main houses with auctions running over the second weekend in May 2021 – Phillips, Christie’s, and Antiquorum – also generated fantastic results for watches by many other brands, including the independents.
Time+Tide
Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph
The Naked Watchmaker is one of our favourite sites for profound insights into what lies behind many an intricate case design and sapphire caseback. This is not a new story, but the raison d’être for TNW is to allow us the pleasure of taking some time to educate ourselves on a deeper level rather than … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration
Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System
Rolex launched Chronergy – essentially a mechanical ecosystem for optimal mechanical performance – with the cal. 3255 in the top-of-the-line Day-Date 40 that made its debut in 2015. Six years on, Rolex has upgraded practically its entire line up with latest-generation, Chronergy-equipped cal. 32XX family, including its most affordable offerings. Chronergy movements are found in the Datejust (cal. 3235) and Oyster Perpetual (cal. 3230), and also the entry-level sports watches, like last year’s Submariner ref. 124060 (cal. 3230). Chronergy is made up of 14 patents covering every aspect of a movement from power source to regulator, but a fundamental element is its escapement. And the Chronergy escapement actually continues a long-forgotten journey that began some fifty years ago on the other side of the world. Still sound at 300 years old Invented in the mid 1750s by Thomas Mudge (1715-1794), the lever escapement was arguably the necessary iteration of the deadbeat escapement once it was miniaturised for a watch. Having been conceived by George Graham (1673-1751) as a refinement of the anchor escapement in pendulum clocks, the deadbeat escapement was unsuited to the delicacy of watch proportions. In the lever escapement, impulse is provided to the balance via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. And the lever escapement is a detached escapement, meaning the escape wheel locks free of ...
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal: Flamboyance, Precision, And The “Batman”
Alexandre Ghotbi takes a rather in-depth look at the more than 100-year history behind the high-precision Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal . . . which came up because of a conversation about "the Batman." Find out what that means right here.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Events in Sydney, Perth and going hands-on with a funky new ’70s Tissot
It was the week of events for Time+Tide, even if they were nearly 4000 kilometres apart. Andrew changed timezones flying to Perth for the second Time+Tide Club event of the year so far, spotting a few very nice watches on the wrists of our Western Australian club members. At the same time, I was in … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Events in Sydney, Perth and going hands-on with a funky new ’70s Tissot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EVENT: A night at the museum with Jaeger-LeCoultre
Night at the Museum didn’t win many awards, despite Ben Stiller’s best efforts to portray a newbie security guard at the Museum of Natural History. It wasn’t a great film by any stretch of the imagination, but it did show that museums can remain truly spectacular places even when the daytime crowds aren’t there. Last … ContinuedThe post EVENT: A night at the museum with Jaeger-LeCoultre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki
Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial. Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution. Initial thoughts A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn. The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design....
Revolution
The Next Big Thing - De Bethune
Arguably the most underrated among the independent brands, De Bethune’s watches with their otherworldly aesthetic and technical innovation will appeal to a watch community searching for an authentic vision of horology.
SJX Watches
G-Shock Unveils Full Metal “Rainbow” in TranTixxii Titanium
Oblong in shape and entirely resin, the original G-Shock has evolved in recent years into something altogether more fancy, while retaining the signature 5000-series design. While the traditional resin models remain in the line up, the Full Metal collection has rapidly grown to include models in steel, titanium, as well as in ridiculous-but-cool 18k yellow gold. Taking things to the next level is the G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000TR. Made of a newly-developed titanium alloy that’s twice as hard as pure titanium, the latest Full Metal model has an unapologetically bold “rainbow” bracelet with links in four different colours. Initial thoughts I was shocked when I first saw the multicolour bracelet – it seemed too much. But I let it sit for a day, and the look started to grow on me. The Full Metal “Rainbow” is a G-Shock that truly caters to the enthusiasts, because it is so different and so unexpected, yet executed to a high standard – attributes that mark it out as a serious G-Shock for the collector who is willing to pay a premium for such things. Echoing the bracelet, the digital display is also multicolour The foundations of the watch are strong. Now almost 40 years old, the design remains durable – the square case is the iconic G-Shock – and looks as good as it did in 1983 when the DW-5000 made its debut. Rendering the design in rainbow colours and a new titanium alloy only adds to the appeal. That said, this is the latest of many, many Full Metal mode...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner
Editor’s note: Sitting in the Time+Tide office, the wrists of certain staff members at times resemble a veritable revolving door of watches. Their passion for new watches leads them to constantly haggle and trade, navigating all manner of financial contortions to acquire the next watch on their hit-list. At times, this can look slightly exhausting … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Innovations And Complications In Horology: A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations From Watches And Wonders 2021 (Video)
Innovations and complications are what makes A. Lange & Söhne watches tick. Here, Anthony de Haas, head of product development at A. Lange & Söhne, discusses pushing limits and taking watchmaking to the next level with journalist Gisbert Brunner and SJX, founder of Watches by SJX, in a conversation presented by Dr. Carl Naughton.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches
Grand Seiko are loved for lots of different reasons from the Spring Drive movement to Zaratsu polishing and the impressive value that they offer collectors and enthusiasts. They are also the brand that comes to mind when you think of quality quartz watchmaking and this year Grand Seiko are celebrating the 140th anniversary of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Contest Time! #ShootYourWatches2 Prize: Casio Edifice ECB-20D!
For 2021, #ShootYourWatches2, Casio Singapore is offering the Edifice ECB-20D as the grand prize. Details of the prize and photo contest rules within.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2021, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton made its debut alongside highly complicated watches from mainstream watchmakers – but it holds its own in mechanical complexity and metiers d’art decoration against the best of them. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton’s mechanical watches are impressive, and often don’t get enough respect from watch enthusiasts because of the often ostentatious design. But I respect the quality of concept and execution, and like several of the watches (and own one of them). The flagship complication for 2021 is typical Louis Vuitton in terms of design, but creative in its mechanics and polished in its artisanal decoration. The Carpe Diem is essentially a modern day vanitas – a work of art symbolising the transience of material goods and fragility of life. At the same time, it encapsulates many of the favoured themes in modern-day watchmaking – complex movements, artisanal decoration, and over-the-top style. Although the Carpe Diem is massive and extreme, the craftsmanship evident on the dial is delicate and refined. The engraving on the skull is fine, and even more intricate on the snake, which is enamelled in exceptional detail. All of the metiers d’art on the dial is as good as that on watches from mainstream watchmakers. At the same time, the movement is technically competent and properly finished, given its La Fabrique du Temps provenance. But the watch is a lot of watch, in terms of size an...
Time+Tide
Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old
One of the few worldly possessions of Mahatma Gandhi was his beloved Zenith alarm pocket watch that the social visionary used to make sure he didn’t miss prayer times. Being reminded of this merely underscored the intrinsic value of my newly arrived, perfectly smooth and deeply unfashionable piece of stress relief. What happened was this: … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches
Established in 1948, Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit green dial offers a fresh look for the new collection
It isn’t everyday that Longines launch an entirely new collection, but back in the middle of 2020 they did exactly that, announcing the all new Spirit collection. Taking cues from the pilot’s watches of the 20th century, but modernising the designs for the 21st, the Longines Spirit collection was a balanced blend of the old … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit green dial offers a fresh look for the new collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.