Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #185: Unpopular Watch Opinions Pt. 1..?
The gang is back together, and they’ve had a tough week. The watch world is slowly turning into a parody of itself, and the guys are here to call out the BS.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #184: Mike’s ‘New House’ Watch
Mike has spent way too much time pondering his next watch purchase and how to appropriately mark the occasion of purchasing a new home. Time to bring in the big guns – his wife.
Deployant
G-SHOCK Presents New GA-900 Watches
G-SHOCK is proud to present Project 900, a series of watches that are engineered and inspired by the tough look of industrial tools. This new line-up of heavy-duty models that are great for wear in both tough environments and as a street fashion wrist accessory.
Time+Tide
Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist
Wow, so that was an experience I didn’t expect to have in 2020. A few days in Geneva, yes. But in August, with the sun out and zero time spent in Palexpo halls? Nonetheless, wherever there are new watch releases, Time+Tide is always on the ground. In no particular order, here are what I thought were … ContinuedThe post Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO
I love the Tank Cintrée, and that was the starting point for the Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO. Cartier’s simple, unchanging designs are unique in watchmaking, despite being made up of classical elements like Breguet hands and Roman numerals. In fact, the Cartier can be distilled into a few key elements iterated across different case forms, which together make up a family of distinctive designs. My favourite Cartier design has long been the Tank Asymetrique – which Cartier just reissued this year – but it is not an especially ergonomic watch due to the case shape and the fact that the crown sits fairly low such that it touches the wrist. Though known as a Tank today, the Asymetrique is not strictly a Tank, since the vintage originals were a distinct model sometimes known as the Parallélogramme. A 1927 Tank Cintrée that sold for US$350,000 at Phillips in 2017 The Tank Cintrée, on the other hand, is an eminently wearable watch that is wonderfully elegant on the wrist. It just wears well. And the Cintrée is also an important design. Though it was not the first Tank design, the Cintrée – the word is French for “curved” – is perhaps the quintessential case shape. And partly for those reasons, it is arguable the most desirable, going by the six-figure results at auction for vintage specimens. Familiar yet different The Eminence Grise was my third special-dial Cartier, sometimes known as NSO, short for “new special order”. The first was also a Ta...
Quill & Pad
MB&F; + L’Épée 1839 TriPod: An MB&F; Robocreature (Love) Story
TriPod designer Maximilian Maertens says that for him MB&F; is a love story. He also says that nobody else is as positively crazy as MB&F; founder Maximilan Büsser. Maertens knows that most of his pieces are too extroverted and too crazy for most. Luckily for us the two Maxes work together. And now let's welcome TriPod.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The MB&F; + L’Epée 1839 TriPod
Thirteen collaborations and counting.
Time+Tide
We made a tribute video to the baddest DOXA ever, which is about to sell out
It’s no secret that we are massive fanboys (and girls) of DOXA. It’s why we’re the Australian distributor for the brand. Do we distribute lots of brands? No, just one. We believe DOXA offer some of the best bang for buck on the market for the watch lover – whether it’s at the higher end … ContinuedThe post We made a tribute video to the baddest DOXA ever, which is about to sell out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; + L’Épée 1839 Trinity
MB&F; Founder, Max Büsser talks to us about their partnership with clockmaker L’Épée 1839 and their new jointly announced, Trinity clock.
Revolution
Christopher Ward Salvages the Super Compressor
True super compressor cases, based on a patent from the 1950s and a cult classic at this point, have not been manufactured for around fifty years. Until now, with the new Christopher Ward C65.
Quill & Pad
The Naked Watchmaker Has Questions For RGM’s Roland Murphy (Video)
Roland Murphy is a red-blooded watchmaker, and in this well-shot video by The Naked Watchmaker that comes out in full force. Asked what he likes least about the business he’s in, for example, Murphy reveals that he is less of a businessman and more of a creator.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux 1945 Infinity Edition
To infinity ... and beyond!
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
De Bethune presents the DB28 Steel Wheels now equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge
With its iconic complication being the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges – albeit one that is somewhat forgotten today – Girard-Perregaux has created a variety of simpler watches centred on the same concept of prominent movement bridges. The newly-launched Free Bridge is the latest to join the line up, and while it is superficially similar, it boasts an exotic silicon balance wheel (that was probably created with help from its sister company). Initial thoughts The Free Bridge has a modern, technical-looking aesthetic that is currently popular, but it is more than a faddish watch. That’s because it’s equipped with an intricate, extra-large balance wheel made of silicon, one that is far more advanced than everything else at this price point – with the exception of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. Though not identical, the balance wheel is similar enough to the one in the Freak X that it becomes obvious the Free Bridge balance is derived from that in the Freak X, which is unsurprising since both watch brands are owned by luxury group Kering. The balance wheel makes the movement special from a technical perspective, and also makes the US$17,000 price tag easier to swallow. That said, the Free Bridge seems to sit in no man’s land – it is neither entirely classical nor modern, in contrast to the Freak X which is an out and out contemporary watch. As a result, the Free Bridge isn’t particularly outstanding visually, unlike the Freak X. Upgraded with a new balance The F...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597
Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Infinity Edition
Typically offered with a familiar guilloche dial, Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch has been facelifted with a polished, mineral stone dial. Equipped with glossy, black onyx dial featuring pink-gold hour markers, the Laureato Infinity Edition is a limited edition in two case sizes for men and women respectively. Initial thoughts The luxury-sports watch category is populated by many similar watches, driven by the popularity of the Gerald Genta-designed segment leaders, which are arguably the definitive sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials. Few watches manage to differentiate themselves; even the standard Laureato blends in. The Laureato Infinity Edition manages to be different without trying too hard, while also being priced reasonably. The combination isn’t imaginative but it works well. The dial is a glossy black, matched with contrasting hour markers in pink gold, and markings in powdered-silver print – a combination that is clean, classic, but also different from its peers. The only odd element of the design are the rhodium-plated hands, which are probably highly legible, but don’t match the colour of the hour markers. Arguably the only weakness are the in-house movements. Both are robust, reliable calibres that have been around for decades, but they lack many of the upgrades found in newer movements, most notably a longer power reserve. The standard Laureato is already a well priced watch. The Infinity Edition sticks to that formula ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days
Girard-Perregaux is not holding back at the Geneva Watch Days, launching their complete but limited Infinity Editions, a tempting collection set around the dark opulent theme of gold, polished black onyx and titanium. At first, it seems an incongruous marriage of past and future: the rarely seen deep gloss black of onyx associated with jewellery … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
‘The Millenium Watch Book’: Quill & Pad Readers Can Pre-Order Your Copy For 60% Off
'The Millennium Watch Book' is a coffee-table publication looking back over the watch industry’s triumphs between 2000 and 2020. It’s likely to be interesting for both watch enthusiasts and newbies; everyone is certain to enjoy looking back on these ticking memories of the last 20 years of watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Azzurro 42MM Limited Edition
A new limited-edition Submersible with a black dial and blue ceramic bezel insert.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged Series
Well regarded for offering strong value, the Seiko Presage has seen a proliferation of variations in dial styles, ranging from stamped patterns to high-end materials like fired enamel and porcelain. The diversity of dials continues with the Presage Sharp Edged Series. The new quartet of watches all feature a dial decorated with a repeating motif inspired by a traditional Japanese leaf pattern. But as the model name suggests, the new watches also boast a new case design that, with the use of edges and angles, creates the play between light and shadow – an attempt, in other words, to give the Presage a more upscale case finish. Initial thoughts The new Presage is slightly pricier than earlier models, but boasts several smart details that set it apart. Both the case and dial have been refined as compared to previous generations. The case has slightly more elaborate finishing, while the dial is decorated with a stamped pattern that catches the light nicely. And that continues right down to details like the the applied markers and date window frame. All of that makes it a value buy at US$1,000, though the higher price tag means it is not as much of a screaming deal as its predecessors. Refined case lines At first glance, the angular case with its wide lugs is reminiscent of the 44GS case, perhaps is the most recognisable Grand Seiko case design. However, the Presage Sharp Edged is not merely Grand Seiko “lite”. With a contrasting brushed top on the lugs, the watch looks s...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale
Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...
Revolution
Introducing the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green
H. Moser & Cie. CEO, Edouard Meylan talks to us about their Streamliner line of watches, launched earlier in 2020 as a chronograph, powered by the incredible Agengraph. And now the newest addition to the line, the time-only Streamliner Centre Seconds with a Matrix Green dial.
Revolution
Introducing the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
De Bethune introduces the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, a new take on the DB28 Steel Wheels with its delta bridge and two barrel covers made of blue sapphire crystal.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Streamliner Centre Second
Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative. With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch. Initial thoughts Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence. Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition. Streamliner style Havin...
Revolution
Introducing the Girard-Perregaux Cosmos Infinity Edition & Other Novelties at Geneva Watch Days 2020
Girard-Perregaux presents its 2020 Infinity editions: Cosmos, Free Bridge, Vintage 1945, 1966 and the Laureato
SJX Watches
S.U.F. Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin
A comic strip populated by quirky characters, Moomin is the creation of the late Finnish artist Tove Jansson. The long-running comic marks its 75th anniversary in 2020, and is marking the occasion with a limited edition wristwatch created by Finnish watchmaker S.U.F Helsinki, the more affordable brand started by independent watchmaker Stephan Sarpaneva, who is best known for his moon phase watches. The Sarpaneva x Moomin watch features a skeletonised dial depicting a central character from the comic, Moomintroll, amidst a pastoral landscape. While the dial is monochromatic during the day, it dazzles up at night as a result of the Technicolour Super-Luminova that’s been painted by hand. Initial thoughts The glow-in-the-dark dial is whimsical and striking, even for someone unfamiliar with the comic. And it is presented in an appealing pacakge. S.U.F typically offers excellent case quality, and here the whole has been boosted by the complex open working of the dial, a feature that is typically found on pricier Sarpaneva watches. And inside is a Soprod A10, a tried-and-tested movement from a widely-known maker, which means servicing will be easy. For €5,000, or about US$5,900, the Moomin wristwatch is a compelling, fun purchase, especially since it is a small run of just 75 watches. Though it costs double the base-model S.U.F watch with the same case and movement, the hand-painted “lume” dial is a surprisingly intricate bit of work for a relatively affordable watch. D...
SJX Watches
Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype
A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...
WatchAdvice
All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review
Simplicity is complexity On August 25th, 2020, Ulysse Nardin unveiled their latest timepiece. A timepiece that is bound to send shockwaves throughout the watchmaking world. The Ulysse Nardin Blast comes as part of the brand’s executive collection, which features audacious timepieces that cement Ulysse Nardin’s legacy as a permanent innovator. You can check out the brand’s website here and find where you can see these amazing timepieces in person here. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Blast was created by drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. From fire and ice, magma and glaciers, violent lava eruptions and cascading ice shelves to mechanical, aeronautical marvels of fighter jets and stealth aircraft. Just as incredible and powerful as earth and mother nature is with its wild extremities, the Ulysse Nardin Blast is comparatively a potent force in the watchmaking world. This technological wonder has a masculine design, from different shapes and sharp lines to an open-worked dial that is finished off with a tourbillon. To encompass this latest creation, Ulysse Nardin is partnering up with Carsten Peter, a World Press Photo award winner who photographs some of the most extreme conditions on the surface of the Earth. His thirst for daunting and dangerous adventure to capture some of the most incredible photos has taken him to places many would dare not go; into tornadoes, over glaciers, and as close as possible to the intense heat of volcanoes. Carsten Peter h...
Revolution
Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Blast
Ulysse Nardin progresses the X family of watches with the newly designed and developed Ulysse Nardin Blast, in four distinct variations.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast
Ulysse Nardin's Blast debuts a new case, a new movement, and a new folding clasp.