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Quill & Pad
The new Eccentricity Réserve de Marche is Cyril Brivet-Naudot's second watch following his 2018 debut piece, the simply named Eccentricity. It builds on that foundation by adding complexity with the addition of a power reserve mechanism taking up real estate on both the front and rear of the watch. And it is simply, and traditionally, stunning as Joshua Munchow reports.
SJX Watches
Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...
Quill & Pad
Since January of 2016, secondary market prices of stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus models have surged in a fashion rarely seen. This phenomenon – and it is that – is exceptional for reasons including the relative age of the models involved, the magnitude of the surge, and the speed with which it struck. Here Tim Mosso takes a closer look at the current secondary market insanity of the Nautilus.
Quill & Pad
Since Baselworld 2018, Rolex has subtly been revisiting its 36 mm Datejust models. The two stainless steel/white gold models revealed at Baselworld 2019 were the last of these, and Saad Chaudhry is pleased to now delve into the new and improved details of this popular modern wristwatch.
Deployant
Possibly the most iconic design created by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso was first created in 1931. It was birthed from a practical need by British officers, to have a wristwatch that could survive the harrowing effects of a game of polo. The latest iteration in 2021, the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, comes in a green dial, set to the simple sub-seconds time only wrist watch.
Quill & Pad
GaryG has already written about the struggles that independent watchmakers face simply to survive. Expressing oneself through horological art may well be a noble calling, but it’s definitely one of the tougher ways to make a living. Chanel's very recent investment in F.P. Journe caused Gary to think about the pros and cons of outside investment into indies, and he shares his thoughts here.
Quill & Pad
Ken's search for the greatest rum in the world started nearly two decades ago, although he didn’t know it at the time. He was on one of his early visits to Cuba with a few friends to chase the "silver ghost," a bonefish, when Fidel Castro's personal cigar roller told him the story of the Isla del Tesoro ("Treasure Island") rum.
Time+Tide
Are cartoon-themed watches the same as the joker in the office with the cringe-worthy Marvin the Martian silk tie on a Tuesday? I think not. In fact, some of the best examples of cartoon characters, whether they be Disney or Anime, are so discreet that you barely notice them. And in the context of a … ContinuedThe post Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There’s something new in Dubai. Something with the power and ability to bring people of the watch community together. And those who might just want to be part of the watch community. And, of course, those who are just looking for good watches. Perpétuel, co-founded by Melika Yazdjerdi and Hamdan Alhudaidi, offers new experiences and limited edition watches for Middle East collectors and visitors alike.
Time+Tide
Bold proclamation from the outset. If this watch had been launched during Watches & Wonders this year it would have been my pick of the fair. But let’s take a step back. In 2018, our friends at Revolution made a stellar limited-edition collaboration with Chopard L.U.C: the L.U.C 1860 x The Rake x Revolution. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We announced the contest last week, and the call for entries is open till end of May. Here is just a quick reminder to send your entries in. Prizes added!
SJX Watches
Perhaps TAG Heuer’s most distinctive vintage chronograph, the Monaco is best known for having been worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. Having been iterated multiple times in modern times, the Monaco is making its debut in a more unusual guise. A blend of old and new, the Monaco Titan has a sandblasted titanium case, along with a brushed silver that bearing the trademark horizontal markers of the original Monaco. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has launched many Monaco editions recently, enough that I can’t recall most of them. The Monaco Titan, however, stands out in both design and materials. Combining the style of the vintage Monaco ref. 1133B – most notably the distinctive horizontal hour markers – with modern colours, finishes, and materials, this arguably the best looking Monaco of the last couple of years. Besides the aesthetics of the material – titanium is a darker grey shade than steel – the case will be noticeably lighter in titanium, which will be useful given that the Monaco is a relatively chunky watch, despite a relatively modest diameter. Somewhat pricey at US$7,900, the Monaco Titan isn’t quite the value proposition of the Monaco models with the in-house Heuer 02 movement – which cost less despite the in-house movement – though the price premium is partially attributable to the case material and limited edition run. Still, the Monaco Titan is an appealing watch, and the most appealing in the Monaco line. Matte titanium The Monaco Ti...
Revolution
Exceptionally light and tough, the latest edition of the TAG Heuer Monaco is made from Grade 2 titanium and is limited to 500 pieces.
Revolution
Chopard with The Rake & Revolution present the L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution, the ultimate expression of complicated elegance
SJX Watches
A frequent topic of news headlines recently is the US$11 billion tax bill faced by the Lee family that controls Samsung. South Korea’s 60% inheritance tax is the highest in the rich world, resulting in the gargantuan tax assessment after the death of Lee Kun-hee, the former chairman of Samsung. The late Lee was a reticent but prodigious collector of art, automobiles, and also watches – all of which are either being sold or donated to help cover the bill. According to the Financial Times, Lee amassed 23,000 works of art, including paintings by Basquiat, Dalí, Monet and Picasso. Valued at over US$2 billion, the art collection will be donated to various museums in South Korea to offset some of the taxes. Christie’s mega auction Comprised of several hundred wrist- and pocket watches, Lee’s timepiece collection was consigned to Christie’s, according to several industry insiders. The first watches from the collection will be sold on May 22 in Hong Kong at a sale led by Christie’s head of watches in Asia, Alexandre Bigler. Amongst the highlights of the collection is the unique Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 HU world time in platinum that once held the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for 6.6 million Swiss francs at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction in April 2002. Alexandre Bigler of Christie’s While the identities of the buyers of recent record-setting watches is often unknown except to a handful of well-connected individuals (the buyer of the US$31-mil...
Time+Tide
IWC and the Mercedes performance arm, AMG, have had a long and fruitful relationship since they first joined forces back in 2004. Things were taken to the next level when Mercedes entered into Formula 1, the pinnacle of motorsports racing, back in 2010 and IWC became a key partner only a few years later, just … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition AMG is made to go fast, really fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Occasionally things happen on Time+Tide that will remind you we’re based out of the most preposterously remote capital city to Switzerland – Melbourne, Australia. Today is one of those days. Friday just picked up another layer of shine because we can finally announce that we have an allocation of the hotly anticipated Tissot … ContinuedThe post It’s here! Aussies can now preorder the new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 in all colours (yes, including blue) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...
Time+Tide
If you have followed my coverage here on Time+Tide, you’ll be well aware I am a huge fan of Kurono watches. The brand has cultivated a cult following, with buyers such as myself racing to secure one of their creations each release. Unfortunately past runs have been scarce at times, with references introduced in limited … ContinuedThe post Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’re a head of state in a democratic country, it generally isn’t a good idea to wear your best watches in public. Bill Clinton, for example, famously wore a Timex during his time in office, but since leaving the White House has been spotted with the likes of Jaeger LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and A. … ContinuedThe post Why the Cambodian Prime Minister is being politically threatened over his watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having remade its most famous vintage El Primero chronographs, namely the A384, A385 and A386, Zenith is now turning to a more obscure corner of its archives to bring back the El Primero A3817. Best described as a tri-colour A386 dial within the A384 tonneau case, the A3817 released in 1971 as a limited run of 1,000 watches, making one of the rarest vintage first-generation El Primero models. Like Zenith’s other remakes, the modern-day Chronomaster Revival A3817 stays true to its vintage inspiration in dimensions, design, and movement. Initial thoughts The A3817 has always been one of my favourite El Primero models. I’m surprised it took as long as it did for Zenith to reintroduce the A3817, but glad that it did. Zenith is one of the best in the business when it comes to vintage reissues – evidenced by the remakes released for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, as well as reinterpretations like the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”. In the same vein, the Chronomaster Revival A3817 remains faithful to the original. In many ways, the vintage A3817 represented the best of the iconic 1969 El Primero models, merging the tonneau case with the striking tri-colour dial. Like the earlier remakes, the A3817 was revived by examining historical blueprints and reverse engineering vintage examples. Consequently, the remake is spot on in reproducing the look and feel of the original. The case is the same diameter and finished identically, and the dial is a dead ring...
SJX Watches
Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...
Revolution
Wei Koh runs us through the new Submersible Bronzo by Panerai as well as new additions of chronographs made to the Luminor family.
Time+Tide
Different professions have their own specific demands when it comes to the attributes of a watch. A professional diver, for example, needs a hydrogen-release valve, while a doctor could benefit from a pulsometer. But what about a DJ? This question popped up last year when I was talking to Carl Cox, the British superstar DJ … ContinuedThe post Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Zenith revives a watch that holds three of its most iconic creations in one chalice, in the form of the Chronomaster Revival A3817
SJX Watches
Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...
Time+Tide
Seiko is known for reliable, robust and value-driven offerings – undercutting the prices of their competitors without compromising quality. They are also known for their creative collaborations, incorporating popular culture like Naruto anime into their designs. One of their latest partnerships is with the popular Japanese skate brand Evisen: the Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Limited Editions are inspired by skateboarding and tuna sushi appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Recently, Longines had launched a new series of mechanical watches for the DolceVita series. We take a look and see how does the new Longines timepiece fare.
SJX Watches
Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...
Time+Tide
My mum always taught me honesty first, so YES, the fresh and new Reiser Alpen has some octagonal details, and does remind us of a grail watch or two. But I still see it as a refreshingly sharp design, not a homage as such. Strong credit is due in this department to Reiser, as it’s … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Reiser Alpen is a sharp, octagonal sports watch that oozes 70s jet-set glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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