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The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Aug 24, 2020

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique

A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Aug 24, 2020

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created

Since time immemorial, Ulysse Nardin has been renowned in the maritime world for their marine chronometers and nautically themed, complicated wristwatches. In fact, for the latter part of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, the Le Locle watchmaker created bespoke timekeeping devices for the navies of over 50 different countries. … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market Time+Tide
Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be Aug 23, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market

Yes, it’s a very bold opening line. In fact, this is no boldr (sorry!) than a simple statement of the facts, should you sum up the parts, starting with a titanium watch with 200m water resistance for under $300 USD including shipping. Boldr Supply Co. is an established microbrand with five watch lines, and a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Aug 22, 2020

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy

Schwarz Etienne is best known for its interesting, in-house movements that are diverse but built on the same basic platform. The brand’s watches, on the other hand, do not possess the same level of appeal as its movements. With a newly-announced tie up with Voutilainen – the highly-regarded independent watchmaker founded by the eponymous Finn – Schwarz Etienne is attempting to inject a little of the artisanal look and feel that distinguishes Voutilainen’s creations. The fruit of the collaboration is the Roma Synergy, a time-only automatic wristwatch featuring a guilloche dial made by Voutilainen, which is also responsible for some decorative touches on the movement. Initial thoughts The look of the watch is immediately reminiscent of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity and first-generation Chopard L.U.C (the Chopard was introduced in 1996, while the Simplicity in 2000). It’s a classical, mid-20th century look, so the resemblance is not a bad thing. But unlike the other two, the dial makes full use of Voutilainen’s engine-turning capabilities. It’s ambitiously decorated with three different guilloche patterns, giving it a slightly frantic look. Voutilainen also adds its finesse to the back, most obviously on the barrel ratchet wheel, but the result is a bit of a mismatch. The rest of the movement, which includes an Etachron regulator for the balance, does not live up to the finely-finished ratchet wheel. And the Roma Synergy costs just over US$30,000 – three ...

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Aug 20, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist

The advent of Hublot’s Big Bang essentially launched the provocative, innovative and disruptive brand. The brainchild of horological mega-doyen Jean-Claude Biver, the Big Bang arrived on the scene way back in 2004, and since then, it has not only reinvigorated but redefined what Hublot stands for. The evocatively named, plus-sized timepiece has been the wrist-worn proving … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Aug 20, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V

Introduced five decades ago, the Seiko 5 is much loved for its affordability and infinite variety. Last year Seiko gave the Seiko 5 Sports a complete revamp, giving it a diver “lite” look. Now the redesigned watch is the base for the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V, a limited-edition collection that’s a tribute to the iconic one-on-one fighting video game developed by Japanese game maker Capcom. Each of the six watches in the line up is inspired by character from Street Fighter, one of the bestselling games in history, with some 45 million units sold to date and a major part of growing up in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Essentially variants of the same watch with different dials and bezels, the Street Fighter editions have the same case as the regular production model, which means 42.5 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick, and a 100 m depth rating. While it sounds large, the watch is more wearable that the diameter suggests thanks to the short lug-to-lug span at 46 mm. Also identical is the 4R36 movement and lack of a screw-in crown, which feels counterintuitive on a sports watch, though strictly speaking there is no practical difference between the two in everyday use. However, the similarities stop there. The new limited editions escalate the fun factor with creative dial designs and bright colours. But the price has also increased steeply – the Street Fighter editions cost almost twice as much as the standard model – no doubt due to the royalties due to the game’s d...

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm Aug 19, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years

Collectively, a decent amount of people were shocked when Longines decided to revive the Spirit appellation earlier this year … and shocked in a good way. You see, as far as novelty unveilings go, the Saint-Imier watchmaker had already outdone themselves in 2020 (think Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 or HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green), they … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Aug 19, 2020

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review

As part of Tag Heuer’s 160th-anniversary celebration Tag Heuer recently released four new flagship models. These new models will join the brands existing Evergreen collection. The four new models are different variants of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02. This new model is based on the brand’s iconic 1963 racing chronograph “the Carrera” and has been updated with modern styling and performance.  The original 1963 Carrera model was presented as a “race-car dashboard for the wrist”. This watch at the time reflected Jack Heuer’s passion for racing and what was required for drivers to achieve better lap times during racing events. Jack Heuer’s interest in motorsport rose when he heard the story of the iconic Carrera Panamericana race. The Carrera Panamericana race was like no other. It was a 2096-mile-long border-to-border race across Mexico. Drivers would have to face harsh conditions and treacherous desert landscape, all the while travelling at 100mph (+). The race has arguably one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motorsport racing, leaving 27 drivers dead. The race lasted only five years and stopped in 1954.  Jack Heuer designed the very first Tag Heuer Carrera as he took inspiration from the Carrera Panamericana race and its legendary status along with the courage and bravery showed by the drivers to tackle the unforgiving conditions. The original Carrera model was designed with dial elements that would serve to improve the ...

Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist Time+Tide
Richard Mille Aug 19, 2020

Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist

Cycling is a sport known for its speed and the dramatic risks that cyclists will take to win races. Every time the Tour de France is raced, there is almost guaranteed to be a handful of big crashes involving dozens of riders, leaving bikes and equipment often damaged beyond repair. That’s why it was a … ContinuedThe post Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to Time+Tide
Longines VP Aug 18, 2020

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to

The Longines Spirit release is a totally new collection this year, something that is already very exciting in and of itself, but also because it’s an entirely new chapter for the brand. Longines, just like many of the finest watchmakers in the world, slowly improve their watches over time and rarely release entirely new collections, … ContinuedThe post We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Aug 18, 2020

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

In a year that’s been short on really exciting watches, a contender for watch of the year – or more specifically, movement of the year – has just been unveiled by Ferdinand Berthoud. Equipped with both a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is a strikingly impressive example of contemporary watchmaking inspired by the past. More importantly, it features a movement that’s executed to an immensely high standard, one that is just wonderful to look at. At the same, the round-cased FB 2RE also addresses the primary shortcoming of the earlier Ferdinand Berthoud FB1, namely its odd aesthetics due to the case shape. Initial thoughts I have always been impressed by Ferdinand Berthoud watches, though I was never a fan of its octagon case. And based on my conversations with collectors, I was not the only one hoping for a more conventional case shape. Now it has arrived, and the FB 2RE does not disappoint. I managed to examine the finished watch up close several months ago, and the quality of execution, inside and out, is remarkable. The movement certainly holds its own against the very best of the independent watchmakers, like Greubel Forsey for instance. It is that good. My first thought when I saw the watch: it is certainly a project driven by passion, rather than sensible commercial instinct, one reason, perhaps, it is so good. Not only is it extremely well made and esoteric in its mechanical features, the FB 2RE will be made in tiny ...

MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach

Undone has got to be one of the best in the business when it comes to making uber-affordable, attractive, quality timepieces for the enthusiast. We’ve spent a lot of time with quite a few of their watches now, and given the amount they offer, for such a low RRP, they’re pretty much in a class … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu Aug 16, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist

Hublot’s Big Bang series has always been slightly outrageous since its 2005 release, but intentionally so. Large, loud, and undoubtedly luxurious, there could be no better candidate for a collaboration with Maxime Plescia-Büchi. The Swiss tattooist is responsible for the sprawling platform that is Sang Bleu, covering and influencing tattoos, clothing, typography, art - both … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT: A Collector’s View Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Aug 15, 2020

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT: A Collector’s View

As these things go, Parmigiani Fleurier and GaryG go back a pretty long way. So it was with significant interest that he took up the opportunity to handle, photograph, and evaluate Parmigiani’s latest introduction, the Tondagraph GT. It’s a relatively rare combination of two useful complications in what the brand calls “all-occasion” packaging, and it is offered at a quite reasonable price relative to other pieces of its kind.

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Aug 15, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition

A fountain-pen maker for most of its history, Montblanc ventured into watchmaking and found success with its entry-level watches produced in its Le Locle factory. But the brand’s high horology watches are made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – Montblanc acquired the brand in 2007 – which produces only a few hundred timepieces each year. The latest model to emerge from Villeret is the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, which boasts a skeleton movement that’s been hand-finished the traditional way. Though there is little movement left after the open working, there’s much left to decorate. According to Montblanc, the bridges include 420 inwards angles on their bevelled edges. Initial thoughts Measuring 44.8 mm by 15.01 mm, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillion Skeleton is a surprisingly massive watch – a characteristic of many Montblanc watches powered by Minerva-derived movements. That’s because most of the calibres are descended from Minerva movements of the early 20th century that were originally built for pocket watches. The advantage is an appealing, old-school layout and aesthetic, but accompanied by the downside of extremely large size, making it impractical as an everyday watch. Priced at about US$160,000, the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton is priced similarly to comparable watches. In fact, it arguably has a finer movement finish than the competition, going by the average standard of movement decoration at Villeret. But at the same time, it is ext...

VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ Aug 14, 2020

VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet

Editor’s note: In preparation for an epic upcoming article that tracks a year on the wrist with the Rolex Root Beer, we thought we’d revisit this video that comprehensively positions it among its 2018 crop of sports watches. Watch it for side by side comparisons with the Full Everose version and the Pepsi, which largely hogged the limelight in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: A top-of-the line Seiko diver, SLA037 Vs. the lesser-seen Omega Seamaster 300, same price, different experience? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight While Aug 14, 2020

IN-DEPTH: A top-of-the line Seiko diver, SLA037 Vs. the lesser-seen Omega Seamaster 300, same price, different experience?

Editor’s note: Here we continue a new style of review that pits two similarly specced watches against each other, in an arena that is less touched up, and more true to the naked eye than our usual images. Last week we had a super-popular Seiko and the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. While both alike in … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: A top-of-the line Seiko diver, SLA037 Vs. the lesser-seen Omega Seamaster 300, same price, different experience? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED] SJX Watches
Tudor [CLOSED] I am happy Aug 14, 2020

Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED]

I am happy to announce Volume I of A Horological Anthology by SJX is finally complete. As some of you would know from a couple of hints on Instagram, I’ve been working on the first-ever print publication by SJX – a book dedicated to Tudor. A project that began in late 2018, Volume I is a hardbound volume that delves into Tudor’s history, notable timepieces, and most crucially – the a detailed look at the brand’s factory in Geneva. [All copies are gone. Thank you for the overwhelming interest.] Behind the curtain Tudor caught my attention long before the project began, specifically in 2010 when the Heritage Chronograph was launched. Before that, for as long as I could remember, the brand offered solid watches with little allure. But the Heritage Chronograph marked a turning point for Tudor, which then embarked on a gradual but radical transformation into something entirely more exciting. But more significant than the smartly retro designs – especially for me as an industry observer – was the brand’s shift to proprietary movements (which are now produced by Tudor-owned specialist Kenissi) without upping prices much. That remains pretty much an unrivalled accomplishment in the industry. How did Tudor do it? The answer was the starting point of Volume I, which involved several visits to Tudor in Geneva, giving me a fascinating peek into the brand’s watchmaking facility and archives. I came away deeply impressed by the extreme attention to quality in every...