Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Pink Gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak That Turned A Devout Yellow Gold Loyalist Into An Equal Opportunist
Our Style Editor explains how this pink watch became the exception to her yellow gold only rule.
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Hands-On: The Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph Makes Its Case As The Best Chrono Under $2,000
A hand-winder with heritage.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Spending Some Quality Time With The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
A faithful reimagining of a 1959 heritage design, outfitted in a throughly modern color palette of warm grey and rose gold.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Gold And Titanium Meet With The 38mm ‘The Citizen’ LE – A Most Surprising Watch
Citizen does what it does best with this limited edition… and then it does some more.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...
SJX Watches
Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm
Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Bulova Lunar Pilot Meteorite Edition Reminds Me Just How Important This Watch Is
NASA and the Lunar Missions are not all about the Speedmaster and this new LE celebrates that in a big way.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker
“Whoa, this thing is cool” is what I found myself speaking out loud upon opening up the box for the newest collaboration between Nodus Watches and Raven Watches - two forces in the microbrand community that have a solid history of putting out some really great watches. The real question is, what happens when these two team up? Is this the initial meeting of superheros that eventually leads to the Avengers of the watch space? I’m in no place to make that call, but what I can confidently comment about is how this watch looks and feels on the wrist. But like any good saga, we could use a little back story. Nodus Watches are a team based out of Los Angeles, CA with a focus on providing premium timepieces that are durable and innovative, while supporting the rest of the watch community. Whether you’re attending one of their Intersect events that brings smaller brands and their customers together across the US, or checking out their other collabs as part of their Design Lab, there’s a lot to like about Nodus. Raven Watches is based out of Kansas and their timepieces are inspired by travel, adventure, and photography -- making for rugged, versatile timepieces that are built for the long haul. The inspiration behind the TrailTrekker is the perilous journey that many heartlanders from the midwest made from Kansas to California, the home states of each brand. Let’s take a closer look at this noteworthy collab. Case The 39.5mm case is perfectly proportioned for my 6...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker
A collaborative and value-packed flyer GMT from two like-minded American boutique brands.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium
Somehow, to this point, I’ve avoided taking a stand in the ongoing conversation in our ranks about the merits of titanium. Zach Weiss, our cofounder, is an unabashed fan, and confidently declares at every opportunity that all watches might as well be made of the stuff. Our friend Taylor Welden at Carryology takes it a step further, and said he’d happily eat little titanium chips if given the chance. No one’s titanium journey on this team has been more closely watched than Kat Shoulders’ though, who was first a skeptic, then an adopter, and now, well, her stance continues to evolve. For my part, I guess I don’t have a strong opinion either way. I have nothing against titanium watches at all, and I’ve owned several, but it’s not, in general, a material I seek out. I think it’s because as a metal, it tends to not have the characteristics I like most. I like elaborate, complex case finishing, and a bit of weight. I tend to prefer steel’s glassy shine to titanium’s grays. There are exceptions, of course. Grand Seiko’s titanium finishing is notable in that it has many of the qualities of steel. And some watches just work better when they are feather light. $11800 Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Case Titanium Movement El Primero 3600 Dial Gray Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 41 x 46.8mm Thickness 13.6mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $11800 The new Chronomaster Sport f...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition (Live Pics)
In white gold, made in 200 pieces, and with a beautiful "Crystal Sky" dial, this watch nods to the past and weighs gentle on my mind.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Traditional German Watchmaking at its Best
Those acquainted with Lang & Heyne’s collections know the watchmaker to consistently impart a historical narrative, with each series bearing the name of a past Saxony ruler. The design of each timepiece, unmistakably German, is steeped in traditional aesthetics that reflect its inspiration. The model under consideration today draws it from the straightforward thinking of […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Powerful Yet Surprisingly Lightweight IWC Big Pilot AMG G 63 Ceramic Matrix
Last year, IWC unveiled a pair of Big Pilot watches inspired by the iconic Mercedes G-Class, particularly the powerful AMG G 63 version, a completely excessive and irrational EUR 200k machine boasting 585 horsepower and accelerating from 0 to 100 km/h in just 4.5 seconds, all of that in a 2-meter high body that was […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Accessible, Compelling, Go-Anywhere Traska Commuter Collection
There’s certainly no shortage of simple, versatile watches that can hang at the beach and complement a suit within a 12-hour period. The legendary Rolex Oyster Perpetual and related models always come to mind, but Traska’s Commuter collection brings this stylish versatility in affordable packages. Offered in 34.5mm, 36.5mm and 38.5mm cases, there’s truly a […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01
Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account. Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe
ARDIO is an independent U.S. brand based out of Pennsylvania and founded by Ron Oley. The Caribe is the brand’s first watch and is the product of over three years of design effort. ARDIO keeps a fairly quiet online presence, with their main website and an Instagram page being the most accessible sources of information for prospective buyers. According to Oley, each component of the Caribe is designed from scratch and the watches are assembled in small batches. This particular run is capped at 300 pieces per colorway with each watch triple-checked by three separate parties and hand-regulated before shipping. There are five dial colors offered at this time: light blue, gauge brass, isotope green, gilded black, and sunrise orange. I had the opportunity to review the blue and brass options. My first impressions of the watch were very positive. I had initial concerns about how it would wear on my wrist, since it looked sizable in the travel case it came in and felt fairly hefty before trying it on. Case diameters of 40mm can wear a myriad of ways depending on other factors – it seems to be a size where the number on paper doesn’t give the wearer the full picture of the fit. However, the Caribe really feels like it wears true to size due to its well-proportioned lugs and slim bezel. Part of the illusion of its overall dimensions can likely be attributed to its height: a double domed sapphire crystal adds two millimeters to its vertical presence, but also offers a nice effe...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References
Earlier this month, Zenith introduced their first new watches of the year at LVMH Watch Week. The new releases fill out their core Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original lines with new colorways and, for the Original, a classic complication reintroduced for the first time in a modern context. Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan got to spend some time with the new watches recently, and their thoughts, and Kat’s photos, are below. Stay tuned for a more detailed look at the new titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport coming soon. Kat Shoulders When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport came out a few years ago, it caused quite the stir in the watch community. I always felt the watch was under-appreciated with its constant comparisons to the Daytona. What Zenith has done with the technology of the El Primero movement, renowned for its accuracy and high frequency, is amazing and it’s a shame this chronograph gets so often overlooked. It was no surprise that when this year’s new Zenith releases came out, I was immediately drawn to the Chronomaster Sport series. While there aren’t any technical changes (not that they were needed), the new case materials were pleasant updates that have swayed me to consider picking one up. The titanium version is absolutely stellar and as many of you know, I’m not the biggest fan of the material, so that should go to tell you how cool this watch really is. The matte finishing is honestly the perfect choice for this sporty chronograph and I...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions
Operating out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for several years now, the brand Edouard Koehn carries four distinct collections. Of particular interest is the model introduced in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, blending two practical complications: world time and alarm functions. While several mechanical watches offer combinations of an alarm with a GMT […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT Espresso is a Seriously Cool Watch From… Texas!
Jack Mason is an up-and-coming microbrand with a growing portfolio of divers, chronographs and day/dates, and the latest Strat-o-Timer GMT is the most polished of the bunch. With a dive watch vibe and in-house regulation, it’s bold and stylish, with an accuracy rating well above the norm for the specific Miyota movement it uses. Of […]
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date
In my latest review, I tackle a brand that deserves more appreciation than it currently gets. But does the watch warrant the price tag? Let’s find out What We Love A ‘less is more’ design packed with fantastic detail Thin, wearable and versatile, even at 42mm Comfortable rubber strap What We Don’t The price point isn’t outside of reality, but it’s still steep Significant dead zone on the crown when winding or time-setting Is the double-security clasp really necessary? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 When I initially joined WatchAdvice, I met with Chamath and Matt over breakfast to discuss what the company was all about. From what I remember, an extract of that talk went about as follows: Chamath: It would be awesome if you could write a review! Name a watch brand, and I’ll happily try to secure something for you to review! Me: MB&F;! Chamath: Um… Try again, maybe? To be honest, totally understandable. If I were in Chamath’s position, giving the new guy access to an MB&F; LMP1 Evo from the jump is practically a death sentence – Leaving even the wrong piece of dust on one would probably end with me working for WatchAdvice in eternal ‘indentured servitude.’ So, I had to set my sights on more realistic opportunities. Note: I said more realistic and not lower. Even without access to the extremes of haute horlogerie, I still had a whole host of amazing brands to choose from. After thinking...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: How Hamilton Made A Watch For 'Dune Part: 2' And Turned It Into Two Illuminating Limited Editions
Long known for its association with cinema, Hamilton went full sci-fi with a pair of film-inspired Venturas.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 is an Ultra-Robust Take on the 1970s Integrated Sports Watch
Amidst the rapid expansion of the steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet category, selecting the right (meaning available and accessible) timepiece has become increasingly complex. However, this watch by O&W; (the contemporary side of Ollech & Wajs) stands out distinctly amidst the influx of new models. Rooted in the legitimate design ethos of the […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection
Anyone who has been in the watch world long enough knows how hard it is to be surprised. New releases often feel like a revolving door of familiar brands tweaking existing models. Maybe that means a blue Pelagos FXD instead of a black one, or adding a piece of flair such as Kermit the frog to a date wheel without changing any complications. Iterations such as new dial colors and puppets on wheels make for temporary amusement, but fall short of evoking genuine surprise from enthusiasts who are no stranger to seeing their favorite childhood characters adorning their wrists. When bombshells from the big brand fizzle out, I often turn to the microbrand space in my quest for a bit of shock. I foster a special affinity for microbrands and applaud any brand that dares to enter a crowded arena to contribute something new. But even in a constantly shifting microbrand landscape, things can be predictable. Slimmer versions of existing dive watches and fan favorite brands jumping on the integrated bracelet bandwagon can start to feel a bit formulaic. But in a rare occurrence, I had the opportunity for surprise by spending time with two travel watches from Foliot, a brand not previously on my radar. And, spoiler alert, one of these watches actually did manage to scratch that awe inspiring itch. Fighting the urge to research brand history and sleuth for fellow enthusiast’s opinions on the forums before the mail truck arrived, I decided to go in blind with this review. Afterall, how of...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Lorca Model No.1 GMT, a Compact GMT Watch with Retro Flair
Lorca is a new microbrand with an inaugural piece offering GMT functionality, which is always nice to welcome to the market. Its Canadian founder (with both Swiss and Canadian roots) now resides in New York, but the watch has a positively European style and Swiss-made designation. The movement is also a step above your typical […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: If Affordable Avant-Garde Is Your Thing, Baltic's Newest Prismic Watches Are Straight-Up Money
Out of left field or from the dark side of the moon, these new watches in steel and titanium come in nearly any color you like.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Victoria Beckham Designed A Collection Of 36mm Breitling Chronomats
Is a partnership between Breitling and Beckham's fashion brand an earnest attempt to spark interest among women consumers?
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Tornek-Rayville TR Type 7B “Blakjak”
You’ve got two options. First, you can craft or find a device that can bend space and time so that you can travel back to an alternate universe in which the MIL-W-46374F Type 6 SANDY 660 was widely issued and battle-worn, and readily available. Second, you could just pay closer attention to what Tornek Rayville (under its current MKII Watch umbrella) is doing and snag a version that’s better than the slightly obscure original. Maybe I’ve been reading too much science fiction lately, but as fun as the first option sounds, the second option is probably the right move. Today, we’re looking at Tornek-Rayville’s take on a lesser-known mil-spec watch with a short-lived history of service but plenty of potential. The spec called out for a navigator-style watch with a rotating bezel, quartz movement with antimagnetic properties, water resistance, and a focus on legibility. The TR Type 7B “Blakjak” is a modern take on the post Gulf War-era watch that improves upon the spec while adding some premium touches that us watch collectors will appreciate. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at the latest and greatest from Tornek Rayville. Case The first thing that struck me when unboxing the watch was the sheer size and weight of it. The 7B ships on a quick-release stainless steel bracelet and includes a nylon and rubber strap. I took it off the bracelet and popped it onto a nylon strap of my own for the initial evaluation. My wrist is pretty average, measuring in at 6.75...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Accomplished Vintage Design of the Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds
Furniture that looks old but is made today is usually classified as reproduction furniture, models that take design cues from the past but are crafted with contemporary materials. This very same phenomenon also applies to the watch world, especially for brands that don’t have reams of historical catalogues to dip into and select the next […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition in Electric Blue
Union Glashütte is a brand that must enjoy a remarkable reputation among a specific group: German vintage car enthusiasts. The company has established longstanding partnerships with events like the ADAC Deutschland Klassik tour and renowned German car rallies such as the Paul Pietsch Classic, the Silvretta Classic, and the Sachsen Classic rally. Recognised for its […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & BR 03 Cyber Ceramic
Make no mistake, I’m grateful to be able to write about watches. Doing so opens a lot of doors and brings about some great opportunities. Many fantastic new watches are delivered to my door, and often weeks will pass without needing to pick something to wear from my own watch box. However, there are times when a new watch is in such demand, or produced in such limited numbers, that a loan is not easy to come by. The BR-X5 Green Lum is one such watch. Spending some time with it would mean leaving the warmth and comfort of my own home and venturing up to London’s Bell & Ross boutique. It’s a ‘hardship’ I’m willing to take, and an opportunity I’m still thankful for. So, accompanied by ‘wrist model’ and Bell & Ross fan Jeremy, I trekked up to the Big Smoke to go hands-on with this bright and bold addition to the BR-X5 line, and also had some surprise wrist time with the brand new BR 03 Cyber Ceramic. First up is the Green Lum ($13,300). When the BR-X5 line was launched in late 2022, it represented a serious advancement in the Bell & Ross brand identity. For as long as I can remember, the square watch has been Bell & Ross’s calling card. Think square: think Bell & Ross. The successful BR05 model family saw the brand pushing into the integrated-bracelet sports watch arena, rounding off a few square edges while still maintaining a familiar dial layout. Outside of those product lines Bell & Ross has also regularly added to and updated its ‘Concept’ range, w...