Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2022 Novelties
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings a broad range of novelties to Watches & Wonders 2022, including the Polaris Perpetual Calendar and Master Grande Tradition Caliber 948.
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Revolution
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Evolution Spring Drive collection with two GMTs, a two Chronographs and a Diver
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection expands with 5 new sports watches - two Spring Drive GMT references, two Spring Drive Chronographs and a Diver.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials
Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold
In 2021, Omega revamped its ubiquitous Moonwatch, giving it a thorough makeover that included an upgraded movement in the form of the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861. This year, Omega follows up with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Moonshine Gold. Omega’s proprietary pale-yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold was developed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Moon landing, so it comes as no surprise that the alloy has made its way into the latest-generation Speedmaster with the cal. 3861. The “panda” dial in solid Moonshine Gold with black registers Initial thoughts The Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Speedmasters are possibly the most striking version of the latest Moonwatch (though the Canopus Gold is a close second). Both iterations of the Speedmaster Moonshine Gold are in popular colours; green is currently hot and while Omega may not score points in originality, the brand is delivering what the market wants at the moment. That said, the execution of the new Speedmasters is done well. The restrained use of modern material such as ceramic for the bezel insert gives the watch a polished yet traditional look, allowing it to retain the essence of its bestselling model. Put simply, it still looks like a Speedmaster Moonwatch, which is what matters. And the unique, pale yellow tone of Moonshine Gold gives the new Speedmaster a slightly vintage look, albeit one with elements that are clearly modern. At the same time, the colour of the metal allows for a subtlety in appearance in spi...
Hodinkee
Interview: An Exclusive Look At The Watches In Wes Anderson's 'The French Dispatch'
Prop master Eckart Friz takes us behind the scenes.
Video
Bulgari Octo Finissimo - How Bvlgari Became a Master of Ultra-Thin?
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch
Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Return Of The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronograph
With a new GMT thrown in for good measure.
Time+Tide
Gane takes on minimalist design with the Type C
The everyday watch is an enigma of design. It’s the guiding principal of most designers to create a purpose-built watch. So when you tell them to create something that suits multiple situations, the resulting watch can sometimes become a jack of all trades and a master of none. It’s this outcome that Raymond Pee, founder … ContinuedThe post Gane takes on minimalist design with the Type C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Australia’s border is (finally) opening up again. To celebrate we’re looking back at one of our favourite microbrand GMTs
Editor’s note: Big news today out of Australia today. The hard border closure (in place since March 2020) will be removed as of February 21! Time to celebrate and welcome fully vaccinated visitors (sorry Novak) back to Oz. To celebrate we’re casting a look back at this vintage-inspired GMT to get you in the mood … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Australia’s border is (finally) opening up again. To celebrate we’re looking back at one of our favourite microbrand GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures: Stories Of Lost And Found
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures collection consists of three Reverso watches featuring dials with exquisite miniature reproductions of lost paintings by three master painters: Gustave Courbet (1876), Vincent Van Gogh (1888), and Gustav Klimt (1917). Each piece's painting has its own interesting story highlighting why it was considered a “hidden treasure." Joshua Munchow shares those stories with us here.
Video
The $20k Rolex GMT!!
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology
The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Kicks Off The Autavia's 60th Anniversary Year With A Pair Of Complications
A fresh-faced flyback chronograph and a new-look GMT represent two firsts for the Autavia.
Hodinkee
Interview: The Full Story Of The 'Pulp Fiction' Watch
How prop master Jonathan R. Hodges sourced one of Hollywood's most iconic timepieces.
Deployant
Quick takes: Norqain Adventure Neverest – a new brand arises
We take a quick look at the Norqain Adventure Neverest GMT, a rather new brand to enter the entry level luxury sports segment.
Hodinkee
Bremont's Surprising New Limited Editions
No GMT??
Video
Why The Tudor Date-Day Is The Best $3000 Luxury Watch & Christopher Ward C65 Trident GMT Unboxing
Revolution
NORQAIN: The Heart of An Adventurer
NORQAIN introduces three new GMT models to the Adventure family in a sub-collection named NEVEREST that benefits the Butterfly Help Project aimed at helping the children of Sherpas lost in the Himalayan mountains receive access to education
Time+Tide
Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines
This video was never scheduled to happen. However, waking up on a crisp Saturday morning in Neuchatel with Marcus our Creative Director and video master on hand, I could not resist dragging him out of his room and into the fresh Swiss weekend atmosphere. The mission was really just to recap what we had done … ContinuedThe post Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Imaginarium of Dr. Woo: Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Excalibur Monotourbillon
An instinctive rulebreaker, tattoo master Dr. Woo takes an iconic haute horology timepiece and guides it to the stars
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: The need to defend my watch choices online
I’m going to start this article with a story I want to share with you all. For those who didn’t know, in mid October, I put a deposit down on my first Grand Seiko, the SBGM247. It’s a watch from one of my favourite brands that has everything I ever wanted in a GMT. Interesting … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The need to defend my watch choices online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency
For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.
Video
OMEGA Master Chronometer: Raising Standards | OMEGA
Revolution
Origins of the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara
Revolution speaks with Mr Shingo Ishizaka from Casio R&D;, the key engineer behind the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara and Mr Kazuhito Komatsu, a master precious stone and pearl cutter and polishing expert, and also the man who lent his art to the extraordinary finishing applied to the Hana-Basara’s COBARION bezel. The word “Basara”, which is derived from the Sanskrit word for diamond, is a term of respect used for only the most bold and honorable of samurai, and it is this word that has inspired G-SHOCK’s new limited-edition MR-G, the MRG-B2000BS-3A “Hana-Basara”, which celebrates the 25th anniversary of G-SHOCK’s flagship collection. In feudal Japan, the Basara Busho were the boldest of the samurai, renowned in battle for their expressive, and indeed, artistic armor, and it is from them that the MRG-B2000BS-3A takes its design cues. Crafted with an ultra-hard COBARION bezel and case made from DAT55G titanium, (COBARION is about 4 times harder than titanium, while DAT55G is 3 times harder than titanium), the Hana-Basara is ideally suited to embody the fighting spirit of its namesakes. In fact, the direct inspiration for this singular G-SHOCK was a one-off suit of armor commissioned by Casio from famed armorer atelier, Suzukine Yuzan. The bezel and bracelet are rendered in a deep green DLC finish called “kurogane-iro”, while the case is treated with a brown AIP (arc ion plating) finish, which echo traditional samurai colors. But the real star of the sho...
SJX Watches
Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar
Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...
Quill & Pad
Gérald Genta Retro Classic: The Definitive Genta Masterpiece? – Reprise
Martin Green is no Gérald Genta groupie charmed by everything the designer created, but he appreciates greatness. While some may favor the Genta Gefica or Grande Sonnerie as the master's definitive design, Martin makes a case for the Retro. Find out why here.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Four Extremely Collectible Philippe Dufour Creations To Sell At The Phillips Geneva Auction
A master watchmaker’s signed oeuvre represented in one Geneva sale.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861
Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question: if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...
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