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The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Mar 27, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Mar 27, 2023

Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model

For the model’s 50th anniversary, Baume & Mercier is launching three striking new dial variants for the Riviera 33mm. The flagship Riviera 33mm features a satin gold dial, automatic movement, and diamond bezel accents. The quartz Riviera 33mm offers two new lacquered dial choices, in vibrant blue or purple. The Baume & Mercier Riviera is … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier Riviera 33mm celebrate half a century of the Riviera model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera

With the flashiness of the Carrera Plasma and Aquaracer Full Gold, TAG Heuer takes a more subtle approach for their Watches & Wonders release celebrating the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox features a new case size, refreshed movement and a gorgeously vintage box-domed crystal that takes us back right to the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra light and very wild Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Mar 27, 2023

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra light and very wild

Hublot renders a full carbon integrated bracelet for their new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon. Despite a full-sized 43mm case, the new model checks in at a featherweight 68 grams, including the bracelet. The visually striking movement features a suspended, skeletonised tourbillon and branded micro-rotor. Of all the exotic materials that Hublot has utilised … ContinuedThe post Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra light and very wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Panerai Introduces the Radiomir PAM01347 and PAM01348 “Otto Giorni” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir PAM01347 and PAM01348 “Otto Giorni”

With a distinctive style inspired by historical military dive watches, Panerai has pivoted to a more contemporary aesthetic in recent years. This year the brand is once again looking back into its history with the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348. Both models are modelled on historical designs but executed in modern colours and finishes. Initial thoughts  Both watches are essentially facelifted versions of the Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, sharing the same dial layout and in-house manual movement. While the PAM00992 was historically inspired (though not a remake of any one model), the newly launched pair is clearly more modern. The two watches are clearly targeted at someone who likes the Panerai style, but wants something more current in terms of colours and textures. With that in mind, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are sensible and successful new launches. Both watches use recycled steel for the case, but more notable is the “aged” case finish that goes well with the textured, smoked dial. Otto Giorni Like most Radiomir models, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are rooted in the dive watch developed by Panerai (and produced by Rolex) in 1935 for the Italian navy. With its distinctive cushion case and wire lugs (recognisable as a Rolex pocket watch with additional, soldered lugs), the Radiomir is one of Panerai’s signature models alongside the Luminor. While the historical Radiomir was a massive 47 mm in diameter, more recent Radiomir models are 45 mm,  as is th...

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

For Vacheron Constantin, 2023 is the year of the retrograde date. The brand kicks off the year with three references featuring this unusual complication, led by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Vacheron Constantin has a rich history in retrograde displays that dates back almost 100 years, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon takes things up a notch with a hand-engraved, open-worked dial. Initial thoughts The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a tidy little package that tweaks an existing movement to create a surprisingly different watch thanks to an open-worked dial that uses the retrograde mechanism as a design element. The result is a watch that is recognisable as a Traditionnelle Tourbillon – it has many of the hallmarks of the line – but one that instantly stands apart. The new look also compliments the largish case well. Size-wise the new tourbillon is almost identical to the standard Traditionnelle Tourbillon with a conventional dial. But while the standard model feels a little large at 41 mm due to its classical styling, the new model feels more natural in its size thanks to its contemporary aesthetics. In terms of its value proposition, the estimated price of €200,000 is consistent with its stature, if a bit on the high side. It’s slightly more than the brand’s own Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton, a watch that features the same base movement dressed in more elaborate finishing. Of course, it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison since th...

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IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Mar 27, 2023

IWC Introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40

After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic.  The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Chronograph SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 27, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Chronograph

Unveiled in 2019, the Odysseus was A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into sports watches. A commercial success since launch, the Odysseus has since become one of the brand’s most desirable watches. Though it has been iterated in different metals (including titanium), it has remained the same model, until now. Long anticipated and alluded to by chief executive Wilhelm Schmid, the Odysseus Chronograph has finally arrived. While powered by a brand-new automatic movement that incorporates a novel and fanciful reset feature, the watch retains the same Odysseus styling. Initial thoughts The Odysseus Chronograph is not unexpected. From the start the Odysseus case was designed to feature integrated pushers resembling crown guards, making it ideal for a chronograph. And the Odysseus Chronograph looks exactly as expected. Though the design is not surprising, the Odysseus Chronograph is cleverly designed. It manages to retain the aesthetics of its predecessor despite being substantially more complicated. The key visual difference is the addition of just two central chronograph hands. The consistent design was accomplished by smartly endowing the large integrated pushers with dual functionality of activating the chronograph or calendar adjustment. Predictably, the new movement inside is automatic – atypical for Lange but sticking to industry convention for a sports watch. However, being automatic means that most of the chronograph mechanism is hidden under the bridges and rotor...

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The TAG Heuer Aquaracer goes for gold Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer goes Mar 27, 2023

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer goes for gold

Precious metals join the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional line-up The release consists of two solid gold references and four bi-metal references powered by automatic movements The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Full Gold sports a new movement for the brand, created in collaboration with AMT, an arm of Sellita The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has been experiencing a … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Aquaracer goes for gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 24, 2023

How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made

Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches.  Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...

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Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Rado xical Part Mar 23, 2023

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...

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INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral Time+Tide
Nomos Club Campus Electric Green Mar 23, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral

The Nomos Club Campus is now available in Electric Green and Cream Coral. The new colours are available across both 36mm and 38.5mm sizes. It’s powered by Nomos’ in-house Alpha movement. The idea behind the Nomos Club Campus as a graduation watch marks it out as a unique and fitting gift, whether you’re buying it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm Mar 21, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm is now available in three new variants The ML143 Sellita-based movement ticks inside Great everyday piece Watch enthusiasts, including myself, often search for watches with specific expectations. For example, I often find myself looking at dive watches with unnecessary amounts of water resistance. And there is nothing wrong … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Collabs Owner’s Edition Plus Mar 15, 2023

[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction)

This edition of On-Wrist Reaction is a little different, with Zach and Blake both bringing personal watches to the table which the other has yet to see. We’ve got two very different, and very cool collaboration watches: one from Louis Erard and atelier oi, and the other from Nivada Grenchen and this here outfit, Worn & Wound. This isn’t just any Nivada Grenchen, this collab features the legendary Valjoux 72 caliber beating away inside. Likewise, the Louis Erard takes a hard contrast to what we’re used to seeing from them, let alone in regulator style watches writ large.  Oh, and we’ve got a bonus reaction to a new watch from Vaer called the R1 Chronograph. No, it’s not the 38mm variant. But it’s still all kinds of cool and we take a closer look fresh out of the box. You can read more about this watch right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post [VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style Time+Tide
Mar 15, 2023

The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style

The Depancel Legend 60s is their first hand-wound mechanical chronograph. It follows a more competitive and serious design language than the Meca-Quartz Serie-A Stradale. The Seagull ST1901 movement is based on a vintage Swiss movement - the Venus 175. If you’ve somehow missed some of our previous articles about Depancel, then the first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Deployant
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 Mar 13, 2023

Review: The New Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003

In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More

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Everything you need to know about watch finishing Time+Tide
Mar 9, 2023

Everything you need to know about watch finishing

Looking for a singular resource on all the watch finishing techniques you should ever be familiar with? Look no further, as we try to list every polishing, brushing and dial-creating process we knew of and could come across. Ctrl+F away, dear reader. Anglage Anglage, bevelling or chamfering, describes a movement finishing technique in which the … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about watch finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present Mar 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm delivers an exciting casual watch Two new dial options are presented with the refresh An automatic Cal. ML112 chronograph movement powers the Pontos Chronograph line  When Maurice Lacroix is mentioned, most people think of the famous Aikon model. And for good reason: the Aikon is a surprisingly unique take … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph 43mm models present a fresh option for daily wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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