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Breguet Classique Dame Ref. 9065 Features Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Dial And More Than A Touch Of Romance Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Dame Ref 9065 Feb 13, 2020

Breguet Classique Dame Ref. 9065 Features Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Dial And More Than A Touch Of Romance

Breguet launches the Classique Dame Reference 9065 in time to celebrate Valentine’s Day and the season of love, but rest assured this watch is the right choice any time. Martin Green thinks that's largely due to the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, but there's much more to this colorful delight as he explains here.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: The Japan edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Casio Citizen … whomever Feb 9, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: The Japan edition

Australia and Seiko have always had a strong relationship … in fact, pretty much every major Japanese watchmaker, whether it be Seiko, Grand Seiko, Casio, Citizen … whomever it is, we folk Down Under love a Japanese timepiece. And, out on my watch spotting expedition at the weekend, this sentiment was shored up no end. … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: The Japan edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 When Feb 6, 2020

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02

When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 25, 2020

Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019

Watches are no longer the robust tools we use in everyday life. We tell the time with our phones, and watches instead have taken on a much more important role as communicating something about ourselves. In spite of this, some watch companies continue to invest heavily in a traditional form of watchmaking where innovation is … ContinuedThe post Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration Time+Tide
Seiko have done it again Jan 21, 2020

INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration

Continuing their creative collaborative partnership, luxury Japanese streetwear label Bape and Japanese watchmaker Seiko have just unveiled their latest limited edition creation … and we like it. Water resistant to 200 metres, this matt black marvel is, much like their first joint effort, sporting Bape’s quintessential “ABC” camouflage, which has been masterfully applied to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Jan 19, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3

This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta’s Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta’s passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Review Jan 11, 2020

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Review

Breitling as a brand is famously known for its aviation timepieces, with the likes of the Navitimer and Aviator models being very popular. The brand however, has so much more to offer. With watches to suit sport professionals and adventurers, to the more elegant and urban watches such as the Premier collection, Breitling has a wide variety of timepieces to suit everyone. Breitling has a rich history in the diving sector as well thanks to their SuperOcean and SuperOcean Heritage collections. These two diving collections are different from each other as the Heritage has a more chronograph and sporty appearance, whereas the SuperOcean has a more clean and simple look. Two different styles of diving watches to suit two different audiences.   What we have on our hands today is a piece from Breitling’s 2019 Baselworld SuperOcean collection release; the SuperOcean 42mm Automatic. When the Breitling SuperOcean was first released in 1957, it was released to make it clear that there was a new player in the diver’s watch market. Since its first release over 60 years ago, the Breitling SuperOcean collection has stayed true to the quality, pure Breitling style and exceptional performance. The 2019 update brings a new facelift with two dial colour choices (black and blue), while keeping the internal mechanics that the SuperOcean is known for the same.  The 2019 update for the Breitling SuperOcean was a much needed fresh look for the collection. Since Goerges Kern took over, most ...

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship? Quill & Pad
De Bethune Manufacture Jan 8, 2020

Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship?

De Bethune is one of the most avant-garde watch brands on the planet. Knowing that, did you ever wonder what its factory looks like? Is it much different from other watch factories? What do this brand’s technicians do differently than others? How do they get the watches to look like that? And the most burning question: does the factory look like a spaceship? These questions and more get answered here.

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2020

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019

One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it’s used as a timepiece’s case material? Well, for a start, it can’t come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged … ContinuedThe post Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2020

A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000

How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2019

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers

For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 14, 2019

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise

Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”

3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum Dec 11, 2019

3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing

Much as it pains me to admit it, these days, haute horology is usually reserved for the rarified and uber-expensive micro-brands of the Swiss watchmaking world. It’s not that the heavyweights of the industry have completely given up on the idea of innovation – far from it – but it does seem as though there’s … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Even within Dec 5, 2019

Hands-On: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Even within the rarefied realm of haute horlogerie, Greubel Forsey has taken watchmaking to a level of craft few others can match – not just in terms of finishing, but innovation in chronometry while also establishing its own inimitable, three-dimensional aesthetic. And now, the brand has combined all of that onto its first sports watch – the GMT Sport. While nearly identical to the existing GMT in terms of function, combining a world time with an inclined tourbillon, the GMT Sport looks nothing like any other Greubel Forsey. And its movement is mostly made of titanium, having been reconstructed to fit into the new ovoid case. Despite being strikingly different, the watch is tremendously impressive on many fronts, especially in its finishing and construction. The new look Depth rated to 100m, the GMT Sport is a large watch that is organic in shape, with no right angles, a handful of edges, and only few flat surfaces. But it has a mechanical-looking style, with lugs secured to the case by visible screws and prominent pushers. The construction is complex and masterful, with the most unusual feature being the crystal and bezel, which are curved on multiple planes. When viewed from the top, the case appears circular, but it is in fact, tonneau-shaped with an oval bezel that is curved vertically from 12 to six o’clock. To fit the curvature of the case, the crystal is also oval-shaped and curved, which further highlights the architectural depth of the movement. The circ...

INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac Time+Tide
Dec 3, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac

Much as it shames me to admit it, until writing about this watch, I rather naively thought that Stan Smith was a shoe designer … how very Gen Y of me. As it turns out, Smith is rather more than a proponent of Adidas’s enduringly vogue white sneaker – he was a legend of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale Time+Tide
Pequignet Dec 2, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White

While skull watches are very much today’s fad, Bell & Ross’ use of the Jolly Roger started a decade ago with the BR 01 Skull, with its square watch case being a perfect frame for a bony visage. The brand’s skull watches have proliferated since then, but the evolution had been purely cosmetic, until last year when the brand unveiled a watch as elaborate mechanically as it is aesthetically – the BR 01 Laughing Skull, powered by a proprietary movement with a simple automaton of a skull that opens and closes it jaw. And this year, B&R; has introduced the BR 01 Laughing Skull White, with the skull finished in a bone-like lacquer. Distinctive face Like all BR-01 watches, the case is 46mm wide, but it is a tad thicker than the static skull watches at 13.5mm high, but that’s a functional requirement, a result of the automaton on the movement. In short, it is a large watch, but that’s exactly the point. The case is sandblasted steel and is decorated with stamped hobnails on the top surface and case back, giving it a pronounced, distinctive character. And it is worth noting the unusual finish of the skull would work quite well with a case in bronze, a material that B&R; has used liberally in the past and will probably continue to. The dial features a photo-realistic appliqué skull that’s been stamped out of brass, and then painted matte off-white with shading to create shadow and depth. The result is striking – at a distance, the skull is seemingly projecting out o...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date – The thinking man’s steel sports watch Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date – Nov 26, 2019

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date – The thinking man’s steel sports watch

Editor’s note: Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as one of the best watchmakers on the planet … and for good reason. The Swiss outfit has been responsible for more advancements and complications in the mechanical watchmaking world than pretty much any other manufacturer. And what’s more, JLC has made movements for some of the top marques … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date – The thinking man’s steel sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert’s Rolex Kermit Time+Tide
Rolex Kermit Nov 20, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert’s Rolex Kermit

A relationship with a watch can be a complex one, fraught with the tensions between longing and expectation, and the quotidian reality that it is just an object, full of as much meaning as you are able to maintain within it. If you buy a watch brand new, you can bask in the pleasure of … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Gilbert’s Rolex Kermit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 Nov 20, 2019

Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400

Editor’s note: With so much attention and speculation surrounding the all-steel variants of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 15400 and now 15500, it’s easy to forget that the Holy Trinity watchmaker also offers their most prized timepiece in two-tone steel and 18k Pink Gold. And while it’s easy to comprehend why the stainless steel variants are … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2019

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019

Well, it’s been another successful year for what many in the horological world refer to as (much to the chagrin of Time+Tide’s Nicholas Kenyon) the “Oscars of the watchmaking industry”. And, much like Hollywood’s most revered awards ceremony, there’s been more than a few upsets at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, across quite … ContinuedThe post The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.