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Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Oct 10, 2023

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

eBay Finds: Sporty Swatch Watches and Seikos to Formal Bulova and Omega Watches Worn & Wound
Bulova Oct 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Sporty Swatch Watches and Seikos to Formal Bulova and Omega Watches

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...

Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 8, 2023

Flieger Watches: A Brief History and 14 Modern Fliegers from Entry-Lev

“Flieger” is the German word for “flier” - contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, it’s not the direct translation of “pilot” (that would actually be “pilot”) - and if you’re a traveler visiting Germany, it’s a helpful word to know, as it helps to understand other related terms: German airlines call their flights “flugs” and Germany calls its airports “flughafens.” Flieger is also the term that’s been widely adopted as shorthand for a specific style of pilot’s watch - one that traces its origins to World War II and which is still popular among an avid group of watch enthusiasts today. Flieger watches trace their origins to a type of timekeeper developed in the 1930s for German military aviators called the B-Uhr, short for Beobachtungs-Uhren, which translates to “observation watches.” B-Uhr watches, the first of which were property of the German government rather than the Luftwaffe pilots who wore them, adhered to strict specifications. Their cases were enormous for a wrist-borne watch at the time, at 55mm in diameter, and they accordingly housed movements that were originally made for pocket watches. These movements all incorporated the mission-critical hacking seconds function and were protected from magnetism by soft iron inner cages to ensure their functionality in an airplane cockpit. The dials were designed to be ultra-readable, with large white Arabic numerals on an expansive black background and flame-blued, luminou...

eBay Finds: Chronographs, Divers, and All the LED Watches You Could Ever Want Worn & Wound
Hamilton LED Starting off Jul 27, 2023

eBay Finds: Chronographs, Divers, and All the LED Watches You Could Ever Want

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Hamilton LED Starting off this week with a bang with this killer full kit vintage Hamilton model QED IX LED watch. This super-futuro looking gold plated watch is the epitome of the 1970’s LED watches. The wide case tapes to a narrow integrated link bracelet that is signed with the Hamilton logo. The case and bracelet appear to be in great shape with little wear. The watch runs and works well, keeping time per the seller. Best of all, this beauty comes with the full, and I do mean full, kit. Inner and outer boxes, instructions, warranty, hang tags and even the original sales receipt from 1976…..Boom! View auction here. Timex Sport Diver Here we have a great little vintage Timex diver that will be easy on the wallet. Vintage divers can get quite pricey, so it’s nice to find one like this that looks great but won’t break the bank. This Timex has a chrome plated base metal case with uniquely shaped hidden lugs. The chrome plating is excellent, with very little wear except the crown, which is quite common. The black dial has applied metal markers with cool red squares painted in them for an unusual look. The elapsed time diver’s bezel is three quarters red and one quarter...

Micro-Brand Digest: Watches Inspired by Aviation, a Steampunk Aesthetic, and Colorful 3D Printed Designs Worn & Wound
Jul 17, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Watches Inspired by Aviation, a Steampunk Aesthetic, and Colorful 3D Printed Designs

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches, to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Sphaera – Desk Diver The Sphaera Desk Diver is a unique timepiece that brings a steampunk twist to the vintage-inspired dive watch trend. Recently decimating its Kickstarter goal, it is set to release more desk divers to the public this summer. Inspired by vintage dive helmets, the Desk Diver features a distinctive screw-in bezel and a sleek matte black sandwich dial with C3 X1 SuperLuminova. The dial is protected by a domed hesalite crystal they call a “dive dome,” adding to its allure. The 40mm sandblasted case exudes a rugged and tool-like aesthetic, making it appear sturdy enough to drive a nail. With its oversized screw-down crown, this desk diver offers a water resistance of up to 100 meters. If that wasn’t distinctive enough, the desk diver is powered by the recently revived Landeron Swiss automatic movement. Regulated to ±5 seconds, this movement ensures precise timekeeping. The watch is entirely assembled in Austria. The desk diver will be p...

Certina Introduces Two Very Different and Intriguing Dive Watches to DS Action Diver Lineup Worn & Wound
Certina Introduces Two Very Different Jun 8, 2023

Certina Introduces Two Very Different and Intriguing Dive Watches to DS Action Diver Lineup

Certina continues to be a deep-cut watch brand for us folks here in the United States, but for our friends across the Atlantic (and the watch nerds located stateside alike), the value oriented brand remains a fixture amongst the watch community. There’s plenty to enjoy from Certina’s catalog and since their return to the U.S. market in 2021, they’ve hit the ground running with successful releases that include the DS PH200M, the DS Action GMT and in my opinion, the best-kept-secret midsize diver out there with the DS Action Diver 38mm. Sure you’ll occasionally get a curveball from the brand with a dress watch or two, but Certina is at their best when they operate within the lane of their DS Action line. In a span of a couple of months, Certina has bolstered their bread-and-butter collection with the addition of two intriguing divers – a serious, blacked-out DS Action Diver 43mm and a proper midsized titanium offering with the DS Action Diver 38mm. The DS Action Diver is a straightforward, no-fuss diver solidified by traditional design, a “Diver’s Watch” designation meeting ISO 6425 standards and an 80-hour power reserve equipped automatic movement. What separates the new DS Action Diver 43mm from the rest of the line is its stealthy appearance. The stainless steel case is layered with a PVD coating, all around from the lug ends to the crown guard tips and caseback. From the photos provided, it seems that any light hitting the case falls flat, but the bezel...

The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both May 2, 2023

The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year

Pardon the pun, but some things in the watch industry tend to happen like clockwork. Every spring, brands seem to understand that a selection of bright colors is going to put us in just the right mood heading into the warmer months, and we see releases from brands across the horological map opting for a rainbow of pastels and brighter tones that make you want to get outdoors, smell the flowers, fight your allergies, and all of the other springtime rituals we can’t get enough of. I’m not complaining: I love color, and I especially love thawing out of those long New Hampshire winters, so a release like the new Timex T80 Hyperbrights just puts a smile on my face. The Hyperbrights collection takes the classic T80 format and puts it through what is almost a psychedelic lens. What we have here are a trio of watches, each featuring a multi-tone dial and gradient resin straps that shifts from the dominant color to adjacent hues as it wraps around the wrist. The Blue Haze features a stainless steel case and complementary tones of light blue and green, and the Purple Haze is the latest watch to include what I think is clearly the color of the moment, along with darker tones of blue. Rounding out the trio we get the Pink Haza, which matches elements of the strap to the gold tone case for a rich, warm look.  Timex does a great job of introducing new concepts and themes through watches that are familiar, and that’s exactly what they’ve done here, taking an 80s classic like the...