Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023 With A Purple Dial
Fans get a no-date Aquis (for the first time) for Oris' annual hometown celebration.
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Hodinkee
Fans get a no-date Aquis (for the first time) for Oris' annual hometown celebration.
WatchAdvice
It’s not often that we get a dress watch to review, and even rarer that I would wear a more dressier watch around for a week or so, but the IWC Portofino held it’s own and even got out to an event or two where I could really show it off. What We Love Clean easy to read dialClassic looks that won’t date39mm size wears well What We Don’t Lack of see through case backNo Date displayNot easy to read in low light with no lume Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 The Portofino collection has been around since 1984 in the IWC catalogue, and offers an alternative to the Portugieser range for those wanting a slightly smaller and more elegant piece on their wrist. If you’ve kept up with my other articles around dress watches, many of you may know that I’m not massively into dress watches but was keen to try out the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm. It’s a watch that grows on you. If you’re like me and not naturally inclined to wear more formal watches, then you really need to spend time with the Portofino to appreciate it. You probably should also be the person that can either pull off a more dressier watch with casual clothes, or have places to wear this, like more formal events, business attire at the office or even just a nice dinner out where you can admire the watch in the dimmer restaurant lighting. Given I’m not an office worker anymore, I opted for the event and dinners out options to show this piec...
Worn & Wound
Though our recent Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco wrapped a few weeks ago, it still feels like yesterday as this was our most ambitious event to date. We had more watch brands than any other Windup. In the form of “EDC Alley”, we had more watch-adjacent brands than ever. We also continued to push the boundaries of what a watch fair can be with one-of-a-kind culture building moments throughout the exciting, long weekend. First and foremost, we’d like to thank everyone who came out to the event, to meet and buy watches, and to help make it a huge success. Our team had the pleasure of speaking with many of you, some of whom traveled from all around the country and even various parts of the world. Bringing all of these unique product enthusiasts under one roof made for a distinctively energetic show, complete with delectable food trucks and sunny California skies. We miss it already. We’d also like to thank all of the brands that chose to participate in the San Francisco Fair, from our distinguished lead sponsors: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac to our amazing Key Sponsors: Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Collective, eBay, Europa Star, Fears, G-SHOCK, Junghans, Maurice LaCroix, and Norqain. Finally, we want to give a special shout out to VERO Watch Company for premiering their first short film called “Katabatic Flight” at the show followed by a live acoustic set by the film’s director Matt Costa, who also scored the film. We also want to th...
Worn & Wound
Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch. At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...
SJX Watches
Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors. And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...
Time+Tide
Chopard’s Alpine Eagle honours Japan with a blacked-out Shikkoku dial. The sapphire display caseback has also been tinted a dark grey. To further chase simplicity and zen, the date display has been removed. After the Chopard Alpine Eagle was introduced in 2019, putting a contemporary twist on a 1970s design, it quickly became one of … ContinuedThe post Black magic: The Chopard Alpine Eagle Japan Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it was announced in January that billionaire hedge-fund manager Bill Ackman had taken a minority stake in Bremont, people wondered what it would mean for the British brand. Since founding in 2002 – a short lifespan in “watch years” – Bremont had made big strides of late. In 2021, they opened The Wing, a … ContinuedThe post Bremont unveil Davide Cerrato as their new CEO. Can he deliver another Black Bay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Inspired by the world-famous Belvedere Palace in Vienna, Austria The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere continues the brand’s aesthetic codes of contrasting directional lines The “Suchy Twist” is a new date display that changes position each day Watch enthusiasts are constantly stacking watches up against each other, drawing parallels in the design codes and dissecting … ContinuedThe post Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It has a small-seconds display, a new dial color, and...no 4:30 date window!
Time+Tide
Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch is updated with a subtle brown and gold colour scheme, and an outlandish gem-set variant The reversible case houses 20 complications, including two patented exclusives – a date repeater and alarm that sounds the programmed time 118 emeralds and 291 diamonds, both baguette-cut, total nearly 30 carats of gems on … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate Complication from the ultimate complication-makers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Notes on the new Vacheron Constantin models at Watches & Wonders 2023. With a strong new collection featuring the retrogade date feature in new watches..
SJX Watches
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Deployant
In this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex has introduced its new line-up – with highlights from the all-new Perpetual 1908 collection, as well as interesting updates and variants to the Daytona, Yacht-Master, Oyster Perpetual, and Day-Date series. Mark our words, you are looking at the beginning of a new era for Rolex. Press ReleaseRead More
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe adds three tasty new rose gold models to their Aquanaut sporting line for Watches & Wonders 2023 A flyback chronograph and diamond-bezelled time/date model both get warm dial colours In a first for the Aquanaut, the Luce presents an annual calendar paired with a blue-grey dial With no new Nautilus models for Watches … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition features a date window in which Miss Piggy’s ex makes a monthly appearance The watch itself is based on the 39mm titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 Oris wanted to ensure the collaboration didn’t overpower the overall watch design Growing up, I learned a British superstition that you’re meant to … ContinuedThe post The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
You can get a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. And there's no date.
Hodinkee
The retrograde date has been a core part of the Vacheron lineup, but rarely has the brand done a version as sporty as this (and it's not the only new retrograde).
Time+Tide
While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Panerai recently celebrated the opening of their first Australian stand-alone boutique with an event at the new store in Sydney’s King Street peppered with all the Italian flair and charisma their clients have come to expect from the brand. While the availability of Panerai in Australia is not new and may not seem like big … ContinuedThe post Panerai celebrate the opening of their first stand-alone boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you spend any time on the watch internet whatsoever, you’ll quickly become familiar with ETA and Sellita, eventually recognising Kenissi, Vaucher and others. While the big two manufacturers are responsible for most of the industry’s Swiss movement supply, with other smaller ones filling the gaps, notable manufacturers are often underappreciated. One such maker is … ContinuedThe post THE Plus are specialists in Swiss production, and could be the future of “in-house” movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.
Time+Tide
New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When you think of a watch winder, you typically think of a big and boxy thing that you have to carve out desk or tabletop space for. And, ultimately, these winders are things you do not really ever transport – a strictly at-home solution. WOLF, however, has now developed a portable watch winder that upholds … ContinuedThe post Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder – the WOLF Rocket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We don’t talk about vintage a lot at Time + Tide, unless it’s a Very Big Deal, such as a record-breaking auction result. But what about the vintage watches that fly under the radar? Bargains are out there if you’re willing to put in the effort. To wit: vintage stopwatches are a fun, cool piece … ContinuedThe post THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.
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