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Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Nov 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic

After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...

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Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division Quill & Pad
Oct 26, 2022

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sparkling Division

We finally arrive at the 2022 GPHG Jewellery category, which is often the most varied in opinion as there is such wide room for taste. Seen among the competing watches are a couple familiar faces, a few bold choices, and even a wild card that might have gotten lost while carrying a pouch full of diamonds through a particle accelerator. What does our peanut gallery think? It's divided.

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HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution Time+Tide
Maen Oct 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

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Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

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INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Time+Tide
Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Oct 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black

Hublot has made a habit of mastering the art of collaboration – art being the operative word. Their creations provide many artist with an inspiring and complex canvas on which to express themselves, whether through colour, texture or material. That creative fusion brought to life by the imagination of an artist continues with their latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition Deployant
IWC s Mark XX edition Oct 8, 2022

New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition

The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.

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HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton Oct 5, 2022

HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S

One of the best things about Hamilton is the way in which they’ve continued to deliver to the customers they’ve always aimed to please - watch lovers without astronomical budgets. Although mechanical watches are inherently a luxury to some degree,  Hamilton continue to hit the spot with some of the best value Swiss watches out … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer rev up Oct 5, 2022

VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera

TAG Heuer and Porsche have been on a high-octane roll since their partnership began last year, releasing collaborative models left, right and centre. The brand new TAG Heuer 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 goes the only direction not yet explored – up. Celebrating the first 911 model to bear the iconic Carrera name, TAG Heuer created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2022

We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary?

Radium was discovered by Marie Curie in 1898, and it was already showing up on the dials of wristwatches by the early 1900s. This goes to show how intertwined the idea of luminous markings and watchmaking really are, as the industry has been a constant point of innovation for the technology. From the dark past … ContinuedThe post We glow with the flow, but is lume really necessary? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe now perhaps Sep 29, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s autumn sale season takes place in early October, led by Important Watches I, a live auction in Hong Kong. The 249-lot sale is diverse but especially impressive in three categories, namely avant-garde complications, unorthodox sports watches, as well as independent watchmaking. We have round a magnificent seven of the “indies”, which naturally includes a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – 34 mm and guilloche dial – along with several limited-edition watches from F.P. Journe, now perhaps the establishment independent brand, and also a few more timepieces that are arguably underrated and potentially value-buys. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2178: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm A watchmaker famed for his unmatched focus on movement decoration, Philippe Dufour has only produced a handful of models across a five-decade career, but is often regarded as one of the greats thanks to his artisanal approach to classic Vallee de Joux watchmaking. While he’s made more complex watches, he is perhaps best known for the Simplicity, a fuss-free, time-only watch that does only one thing but does it well: impeccable movement finishing. Going under hammer at Sotheby’s is a classic example of the Simplicity, one that’s almost identical to the one Mr Dufour himself wears. Well suited to purists, this example is 34 mm, white gold, and fitted with a guilloche ...

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Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Split In Two Quill & Pad
Sep 27, 2022

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Split In Two

The Men’s is one of the more contentious GPHG categories every year because it is filled with amazing watches that may or may not have much in common but do have distinctive aesthetics. Since that is very subjective, our panel is reminded that the category is essentially asking which watch is the most versatile, wearable, and appeals to the broadest demographic. And, yet, our peanut gallery is divided practically down the middle!

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INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Sep 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green

The world of feminine watches definitely draws the short straw more than it should, but the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One is finally now available in what could be considered the new blue - a dark emerald green. The best way to describe the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in this new verdant guise would be “eye-catching”, with every … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One in green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection Time+Tide
Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Sep 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection

Few celebrities hold such strong sway in the public consciousness as the Chairman of the Board, Frank Sinatra. Having dominated both music and film throughout the 1940s to ‘60s, Sinatra’s legacy is firmly cemented through his lasting works as well as his eternal style and demeanour, the latter of which Bulova have captured within the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock

We’ve covered some pretty strange watches here on Time+Tide, even a bunch which don’t tell the time, but it’s rare that we discuss something that doesn’t physically exist. The Doomsday Clock is a concept and a symbol which has been referenced across plenty of media forms - from 2 Minutes to Midnight by Iron Maiden … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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