22,573 articles · 6,180 videos found · page 871 of 959
Fratello
The Gruen Curvex certainly ranks as an important line of historical watches. These pieces used a variety of curved cases and curved movements. During their two decades of production, they were the pinnacle of style and rivaled more expensive brands. Gruen also has a deep tie to America, which brings something different to the story. […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant to read the full article.
Deployant
At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, Hermés released a new model lineup which they call CUT. We got our hands on one, and here is our review.
SJX Watches
You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...
Monochrome
Recently, we’ve discovered the new haute horlogerie creations of Louis Vuitton, which included a trio of artistic models inspired by the universe of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, as well as a striking take on horology by architect Frank Gehry. There was a third watch introduced, one that really made an impression on us with its combination of […]
SJX Watches
With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet. Initial thoughts In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings. Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below. The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost. The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is...
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Quill & Pad
The “unobtanium” phenomenon isn’t limited to watches from the past, there are a variety of references for which supply seems to lag demand. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the current market for select steel sports watches. Here GaryG highlights some interesting dynamics caused by that imbalance, led by a loud chorus of complaints from prospective buyers.
Fratello
Today, the Zodiac brand is predominantly associated with dive watches. But if we look back in time, we can find the Zodiac Hermetic family, which hides a few very interesting non-diving models. Among the Valjoux 72-powered chronographs and 24-hour Aerospace Jets sits one very appealing dresser that got my attention about four years ago. In […] Visit #TBT A Virgin-Like Zodiac Hermetic Small Seconds to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...
Fratello
In 2013, Oris released the Aquis Depth Gauge, which spawned a new collection of modern dive watches. This deep diver had a unique mechanical depth gauge, highlighting the brand’s ambition to create practical applications rather than superfluous complications. The Aquis was made a bona fide collection when the core design cues of the Depth Gauge […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Aquis Date Range to read the full article.
Monochrome
Denis Flageollet, the founder of De Bethune, is renowned as a master watchmaker who has steered his reverence for ancestral horological craftsmanship into radically contemporary settings. Perhaps his credentials should also include ‘master alchemist’ because when Flageollet starts playing with fire in his workshop (which includes a blacksmith), the results are out-of-this-world spectacular. The latest […]
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Deployant
Our next stop is Norqain, where they introduced numerous watches, but our highlight is their One of 1. A unique configurator which is allows huge customisation capabilities for the Wild One of 1. Live from WWG24: the new configurator from Norqain Willd One of 1 When we first heard of the key product is aRead More
Monochrome
Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]
Monochrome
With a legacy extending over 80 years, including the renowned Cottier watches, Worldtimers stand out as one of Patek Philippe’s quintessential complications. Patek Philippe was the brand to reintroduce this complication in 2000 with the unveiling of the 5110 model. Subsequently, the 5110 was succeeded by the 5130 in 2006, which in turn was replaced […]
Fratello
One of the youngest Rolex lines is the Sky-Dweller, which debuted in 2012. It’s also the most complicated watch in the modern Rolex catalog, providing an annual calendar and a clever way to set it using the Ring Command bezel. You can read about it here. Rolex Sky-Dweller 336935 and 336938 The new Rolex Sky-Dweller […] Visit Hot Take: The Rolex Sky-Dweller On A Jubilee Bracelet In Yellow Gold Or Everose Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
Besides one or two focus releases, Grand Seiko releases a plethora of new variations to its current models every year. In this article, we’ll summarize most of Grand Seiko’s Watches and Wonders 2024 releases, which will be available later this year. There is plenty to enjoy with a beautiful addition to the Evolution 9 lineup, […] Visit Grand Seiko Releases A String Of New References At Watches And Wonders to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence. The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...
SJX Watches
For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Hautlence, which made its debut 20 years ago in Neuchatel, has always been known for its modern approach to watchmaking with creative designs, exposed mechanics and innovative ways of displaying time. Now a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, the brand made a comeback a few months ago with modernized, streamlined aesthetics […]
Fratello
The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.
Fratello
Ambrose Bierce published Fantastic Fables back in 1899. It is a bundle of short fairy tales, most of which are absurd and feature an ironic plot twist. This unique combination reminds me of our behavior as watch lovers. Just as Bierce wrote about a woman who shot her man dead to prevent him from leaving […] Visit Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches? to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve. Watches are offered in three strap varie...
Fratello
Since 2024 began, I have wanted nothing more than a chance to talk and laugh with my grandfather again. This year is the 18th since his passing, which was also half of my life ago now. Perhaps because of that, I feel as if I could finally comprehend and appreciate all of his insight and […] Visit Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s to read the full article.
Fratello
The speed at which Christopher Ward releases new watches is impressive. But it’s even more impressive that the brand maintains a certain level of variety that keeps every release fresh. There’s truly something for everyone in Christopher Ward’s rapidly expanding collection. The newest creation from the CW kitchens is the C63 Valour. This quartz timepiece […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Horological Society of Utah is a growing consortium of collectors and enthusiasts in Salt Lake City and throughout the Intermountain West. Their nonprofit is dedicated to supporting the culture of horology through education and community. John Liley and Aaron Recksiek, some of the Society’s founding members, reached out to Worn & Wound to co-create a fun event designed to delve into a handful of brands right in the heart of the Salt Lake Valley- which is, of course, Squatters Pub Brewery. Alpina, Bulova, Accutron, and Frederique Constant answered the call. Last Thursday, with an epic view of the Wasatch Front, the entire second floor of the well-known SLC-based brew pub was filled with enthusiasts and collectors all seeking to get their hands on the latest and greatest from each brand. Alpina led the charge, with a full complement of their latest Alpiner Extreme Automatic models, including their California Dial variant-clearly a crowd favorite that evening. Bulova and the Windup Watch Shop joined forces to outfit their line of Hack field watches with US-made Mil-Straps. Anyone who purchased a Hack watch was able to pick out an ADPT strap of their choice to pair with their new watch. As you can see from the images, It’s clear that those watches and straps are just meant to be together. We also gave away one of the Hack Watches to a very lucky attendee. As guests sipped on a selection of Salt Lake Brewing Co.’s very own IPAs, TJ Harris, the Director of Br...
Monochrome
French brand Depancel has a distinct automotive-inspired approach to watchmaking, which starts with its name. The name Depancel is derived from Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega, three of the most respected French car manufacturers. With such a backstory, it’s not hard to figure out what Depancel loves to do most; build car- and motorcycle-inspired watches! […]
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