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Short takes: the new Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono White Hawk
We take a Quitc Takes look at the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono White Hawk, which is a new addition to sporty luxury steel watch collection.
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Time+Tide
VIDEO: Audemars Piguet’s top 5 watches of 2021
Audemars Piguet marched loudly into 2021, dropping no fewer than 16 watches before we had even hit the end of March. It was definitely a year of evolution over revolution, but the manner in which their watches evolved felt like the brand really had their ears to the ground. Possibly their boldest release is actually … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Audemars Piguet’s top 5 watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Star Diver 1964 (RK-AU0501B): Revitalizing the Olympia Calendar Diver
This new Diver 1964 release is based on the original Orient Olympia Calendar Diver, which was the first 40m dive watch with a bezel that Orient ever produced.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
One of Vacheron Constantin’s more affordable complicated timepieces, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar was recently refreshed with a smartly minimalist palette of white gold and grey. And the watchmaker has quickly followed up with the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, which is more striking – with more complicated aesthetics – thanks to a see-through dial that reveals the calendar works. Initial thoughts Eminently different from the standard version, the Openface is a strong addition to the brand’s calendar line up, especially for those who find the standard models too simple in style – it has a notably unique aesthetic. The new look is the result of a surprisingly simple upgrade. Instead of a skeletonised movement – which is the norm for open-faced watches but far more costly – this has a transparent dial that showcases the intricate wheels and jumpers of the calendar module. Simple as it is, the Openface is nevertheless thoughtfully executed. In typical Vacheron Constantin fashion, attention has been paid to the details in both design and finish to create a pleasing, refined look. One example is the upper section of the dial that’s finished with a radial guilloche, which contrasts with the lower portion in sapphire, giving it visual definition (while also highlighting the branding). The hour markers are secured with feet on both ends, instead of being cantilevered, for extra stability And despite the complex appearance, legibility has prese...
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The Swatch Watch That Saved My Channel / Swatch X Simpsons
SJX Watches
Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst
An exhibition dedicated to limited-edition watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Exceptional Masterpieces recently concluded after a five-day run in Singapore. The event was fully subscribed every day it was open, but attendance was limited due to health regulations. Amongst the watches on show were all the Handwerkskunst limited editions. German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst is an apt label for the series, which is made up of watches featuring artisanal decoration executed by hand, most often engraving but also enamelling on occasion. Inaugurated a decade ago, the series is now a family of seven watches, but each model was limited to no more than 30 pieces, which means the entire series totals less than 200 watches, making them amongst the rarest of Lange watches. So for anyone who missed out on the exhibition, here’s a look at five of our favourite Handwerkskunst editions. (For an in-depth look at each of the Handwerkskunst watches, see our definitive guide to the series published in 2020.) 2012 – Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (ref. 140.048) The second of the series, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst very much stuck to the formula set established by opening act, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst. While the mechanics remained almost identical, the decoration an upgraded over the standard version with elaborate engraving on both the front and back, but executed in a restrained manner that embodies the low-key style of the German watchmaker. Preci...
Quill & Pad
‘The Kingsmen,’ ‘The King’s Man,’ And Three Spy-Worthy Timepieces From Bremont, TAG Heuer, And Jaeger-LeCoultre
In honor of 'The King’s Man,' the next instalment of the entertaining Kingsman film series, which is finally getting released, Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the watches that starred in each of the three films – three watches that are as diverse as if they had come from Marvel's multiverse!
Hodinkee
Hands-On: We Went To The 'Matrix' Premiere And Saw Some Hamilton Watches On The Big Screen
Taking a look at the new 'Matrix'-themed PSR – which is already sold out in the U.S.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite New Watches of 2021
It was a good year for watches – see which ones made our final cut.
Revolution
Introducing the Grand Seiko SBGH287 “Snow on the Blue Lake”
The physical environs around which Grand Seiko watches are made is a gift that doesn’t stop giving, now expressed in the SBGH287 “Snow on the Blue Lake”.
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WEIRD New Omega Seamaster | The New Swatch Looks Exactly Like A NOMOS
Time+Tide
Raketa teams-up with The Limited Edition and Scottish Watches to present the Mars-3
Watches and the celebration of outer space have a long and intertwined history, most notably Omega with their Speedmaster joining NASA’s trip to the moon. But before all that, the famed “Space Race” between the Soviet Union and the United States was an international battle to reach the stars first. Raketa, which translates to rocket … ContinuedThe post Raketa teams-up with The Limited Edition and Scottish Watches to present the Mars-3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: @case_and_crown will remind you of the sheer joy of collecting
There will be a point in your collecting life when the snobbery and pretentiousness of the scene can become too much. A time when it feels like your collection just isn’t good enough (which makes sense when you’re constantly being bombarded by limited-edition hype pieces). In moments like this, there is no need to look … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @case_and_crown will remind you of the sheer joy of collecting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Discovers The Meaning Of Luxury Via Audemars Piguet
Did you know that AP not only has boutiques, it also has something called the AP House, which is somehow an even ritzier place to buy watches? You probably did. But I did not.
Time+Tide
Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion
To the uninitiated, Test cricket can seem like a mystifying business. As sporting occasions go, it’s often a slow-motion spectacle in which a single game can drag on for up to five days, then peter out in a lacklustre draw. In a time of ever-decreasing attention spans, watching 22 men in white chasing a small … ContinuedThe post Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue
Last year, Hublot introduced a Big Bang Unico Sky Blue – which we raved about due to its eye-popping hue in a year where blue dominated the market. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch subsequently sold out. Yet buyers who missed out may now have the opportunity to secure something similar, although subtle and clear … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Swatch x Blancpain Will Rescue Blancpain.
Time+Tide
The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock
When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono White Hawk: Military-Inspired With An Urban Touch
Martin Green is a big fan of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chronograph and to date the blue-dial model has been his favorite. But that's now been supplanted by the White Hawk, which he thinks gives this military-inspired watch a more urban touch.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture
If you asked me which watch brands the mass marketplace needs to pay greater attention to, Parmigiani Fleurier would genuinely be on my list. In watchmaking, there are at times silent heroes who don’t get their due – even though they work with or supply movements to more household name brands. If you are a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel
Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph. While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...
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I Bought the Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty so you don't have to
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: This Holiday Season, These Are The Watches We Want For Ourselves
We wish we may, we wish we might find these on our wrists tonight.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Seiko Prospex Samurai Save The Ocean, Asia Special Edition SRPH43
Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has now been around for about two years, with a very simple motive behind it. If nobody wants to go diving anymore, then who would need dive watches? Of course, the ethical drive behind removing marine debris and other conservation efforts goes much deeper than sales, but it is a … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Seiko Prospex Samurai Save The Ocean, Asia Special Edition SRPH43 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Michael Jordan invests to lift WatchBox valuation to almost $1 billion
Michael Jordan famously said that “you miss 100% of the shots you don’t take”. But the risk/reward ratio on his latest investment looks promising. The basketball legend joined a list of athletes to invest in WatchBox, the trading site, which bills itself as “the world’s leading e-commerce platform to buy, sell, and trade luxury watches”. Yesterday Watchbox said that … ContinuedThe post Michael Jordan invests to lift WatchBox valuation to almost $1 billion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong
Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...
SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365
Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...
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