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Quill & Pad
For the Panthère UAE Limited Edition, Cartier set the bezel with 44 brilliant-cut rubies. These stones surround the distinctive bezel screws that are one of the hallmarks of the Panthère model and add a generous dash of color, making this limited edition a true eye-catcher for Martin Green.
Deployant
In a wonderful twist in events in time for the 250th anniversary of Urban Jürgensen in 2023, independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has acquired the brand with some investors and will be CEO effective immediately. Press Release and commentary in italics. Editorial Commentary This is superbly exciting news for Urban Jürgensen enthusiasts, especially hard core collectors,Read More
Time+Tide
Michael Jordan famously said that “you miss 100% of the shots you don’t take”. But the risk/reward ratio on his latest investment looks promising. The basketball legend joined a list of athletes to invest in WatchBox, the trading site, which bills itself as “the world’s leading e-commerce platform to buy, sell, and trade luxury watches”. Yesterday Watchbox said that … ContinuedThe post Michael Jordan invests to lift WatchBox valuation to almost $1 billion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A pre-owned watch merchant that has smartly transformed itself into a market-making juggernaut – and also the owner of De Bethune – Watchbox just announced it has raised US$165 million from new and current investors. The valuation was not revealed, but CNBC reported it to be almost US$1 billion. The investment was led by a pair of American investment firms, The Radcliff Companies and The Spruce House Partnership. Also taking part were existing investors in Watchbox, including CMIA, a Singapore-based private equity outfit that was instrumental in enabling Watchbox to scale up when it invested US$100 million in 2017. According to Watchbox, the latest round of fundraising also brings a list of boldface names to Watchbox’s roster of investors, including Michael Jordan as well as prominent hedge fund managers Bill Ackman and Marc Lasry. A Watchbox favourite With the pre-owned watch business consolidating, Watchbox and its peers now have the scale to tap on institutional investors – and eventually public markets – for funding. A pre-owned merchant focused on German-speaking European countries, Chronext was planning to go public in mid 2021 but shelved plans for an IPO amidst rumours that it was in talks with another industry player on some sort of tie up. And European giant Chrono24, which began as a marketplace but is increasingly become a dealer with its own inventory, already achieved a US$1 billion earlier in 2021 and is reputed to be seeking a listing. Higher ambi...
Revolution
MB&F; and Bvlgari join forces for the first time ever to introduce the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra, a limited edition of just 20 pieces
SJX Watches
Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...
Time+Tide
In the world of microbrands, it can be hard to stand out amidst the barrage of vintage-style divers and explorer’s watches. What isn’t hard to stand out with? A super slick minimalist chronograph that could seamlessly blend into a sci-fi franchise, with a bright red-tinted sapphire crystal that almost glows with a fiery malice. Maurice … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maurice de Mauriac L3 Sees Red Chronograph exploits coloured sapphire crystal for dazzling effect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...
SJX Watches
After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...
Time+Tide
Look, I am a New Yorker. Born in the city, living in Manhattan for the majority of my life, I am well-accustomed to daily train rides. The NYC Subway is great for the most part, aside from the occasional “Pizza Rat”, “Showtime dancers”, and a deep cut for any NYC readers “The Earth Angel”. More … ContinuedThe post IN THE SHOP: The Mondaine Official Swiss Railways Mini Clock 12.5cm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Admittedly, Panerai is a brand I have stayed away from in regards to my personal collection. I like the design, heritage, and robustness of their watches. It’s really just the size that has scared me off, due to the fact I have rather small wrists. I am intimidated by the 44mm and 47mm models we … ContinuedThe post Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the most beautiful things about collecting watches is the journey. The ups, downs and everything in between make this hobby that much more interesting and fun. That’s why any time I bump into a fellow collector, I always sit down and enjoy stories about the road they’ve travelled and the details behind the … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @timepeacelove, a watch collector sharing his journey through amazing storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The much sought after Hanhart 417 Chronograph for Revolution & The Rake returns in 39mm, the size of the original 1950s 417 model, with a new bronze alloy and a stunning brown sunray dial.
Revolution
Massena LAB and Italian watch manufacturer UNIMATIC presents the U1-MLB, inspired by the West German Navy’s dive watches of the 1970s.
Time+Tide
If I had to pinpoint the early origins of my journey to becoming a watch lover, I would attribute it to inheriting the passion for watches from my grandfather. Throughout decades of his career he sold watches for a living, anything from Victorionox door-to-door to Rolex and Omega in various authorised dealers. While he loved … ContinuedThe post A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Why I’ve already forged a special connection with my new Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126234 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We’ve debated some of the best watches under $1,000 USD, from $1,000 – $3,000 USD, from $3000 – $5000 USD, from $5000 – $7,000 USD, and from $7,000 – $10,000 USD, and $10,000 – $15,000 USD. Today, in our next installment of the Don’t Miss This series, we are stepping up the increment again – … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $15K-$20K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Situated behind Geneva’s Old Town and a 20-minute walk from the watchmaker’s Salon facing the lake, the Patek Philippe Museum is one of the world’s greatest collection of timepieces and mechanical objects. Made up of over 2,500 items, the museum is almost singular in the breadth and depth of its collection. Started in 1980 by Philippe Stern, then the President of Patek Philippe and father of Thierry, the collection is now overseen by curator Dr Peter Friess. The museum’s collection can falls into two broad categories: the history of mechanical timekeeping in Europe until 1839, and Patek Philippe timepieces from its founding in 1839. One of the prized items in the former category is a 400-year old, enamelled timekeeper by Jehan Cremsdorff, one of the oldest and most perfectly preserved pocket watches known. The entrance to the museum, which on a recent Saturday had a line outside across two blocks Sedate in dark wood and green carpeted floors, the galleries of the museum occupy two floors, with the third floor being an 8,000-book library and a small exhibit dedicated to the Patek Philippe company that includes a reconstruction of the office once occupied by Henri Stern, grandfather of Thierry and father of Philippe. Guided tours are offered, as is an audio guide. Interestingly, the central section of the library is a display of miniature enamel objects – but not incorporating watches – made in Geneva in the 18th and 19th centuries. Visitors start on the thir...
SJX Watches
Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...
Quill & Pad
An email arrived: would Ken Gargett be interested in tasting an original prestige champagne from the popular house of Piper-Heidsieck? This is the sort of invitation he would crawl over broken glass to be part of and he shares his experiences here. Spoiler alert: Ken rates the 50-year-old champagne 99/100!
Revolution
Breitling’s 2021 Super AVI Collection is a collection of five new watches, inspired by four legendary planes from the 1940s and one watch from their own archives, the superb 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI aviator’s watch.
Revolution
In its short, decade long life Tudor’s defining dive watch, the Black Bay has been on a wild ride. We look at the historic origins of Tudor’s diver and discover how this design lineage has been incorporated into the modern-day Tudor Black Bay
Revolution
The point of a tourbillon is largely to as a magnet for attention, and in this regard Franck Muller has stayed true to ideal by placing a large tourbillon in dead centre, in its signature Cintrée Curvex case.
Time+Tide
If you’re going to draw inspiration from anything, the French Riviera is as good as it gets. Baume & Mercier’s Riviera line stems from the trauma of the 1970s, when Swiss watchmaking was under fire from the quartz uprising and adaptation was pivotal. Among the early brands to emerge with their heads held high were … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The most striking thing about the Zeitwerk is its incredible look that combines much that is familiar about A. Lange & Söhne and some that is less familiar. The Zeitwerk was a watch to fit the times 12 years ago, a new era of complicated watchmaking, inside the Saxon brand and elsewhere. And now comes the Zeitwerk Date, a complicated sibling with new-and-improved technology.
Revolution
While Bell & Ross had released the black- and blue-dialled version of the BR 05 Chrono, it is this limited edition with opaline white dial – the “White Hawk” – that most naturally epitomises the personality of breezy elegance.
Hodinkee
Bad math led us to 24 seconds, an interval that compromises free-flowing play and makes a mockery of horology. Here’s what it should be instead.
Time+Tide
There is a school of thought that nothing is truly original, and everything that exists now is just a riff based on something that has gone before (and many times is just a pale shadow of its forebears). And with the amount of sequels that Hollywood pumps out on an endless basis (hey, it was … ContinuedThe post Hamilton launches collaborative Capsule Collection with Mad Men’s costume designer Janie Bryant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...
SJX Watches
I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...
Revolution
The Laureato has come in tourbillon versions, skeletonized ceramic versions and many more. This Absolute incarnation may well be one of its appealing executions yet.
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