Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko ‘Save the Ocean’ Diver I Didn’t Expect to Like Finally Gets It Right
Seiko introduces a limited Save the Ocean 1965 Heritage Diver with a teal sunburst dial, gray bezel, and upgraded microadjust clasp.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko introduces a limited Save the Ocean 1965 Heritage Diver with a teal sunburst dial, gray bezel, and upgraded microadjust clasp.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a warm cup of coffee and a battle for the ages. In today’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we’re pitting two modern versions of iconic chronographs against each other. Both also come with beautiful blue dials. One is the current Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space that came out […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Original Vs. Omega Speedmaster FOiS to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The SeaQ is often overlooked in the shadow of the Sub. We tested both watches to see which feels better beyond the honeymoon phase and which one we’d actually buy.
SJX Watches
Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...
Worn & Wound
This panel, which features a collaborative effort between Bulova and Photoville, is a unique dialogue on the profound relationship between photography and horology. Featuring photographer Brian Alcazar (@1st), Photoville founder Sam Barzilay, and Jason Gong of Complecto, this discussion is wide ranging and appropriately touches on what makes photographing New York City special. You won’t want to miss it! View the interview on here on YouTube or read along below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello, everyone, and welcome to the second panel of the final day of the Wind-Up Watch Fair in New York City. My name is Zach Kazan, director of editorial at Worn and Wound. It’s a pleasure to be here and to have you all here. This panel is presented by Bulova and Photoville. It’s called On My Watch: New York City in Pictures. We’ll be talking about photography and horology, and where those worlds intersect, with four great panelists. I’ll let each of them introduce themselves. First, to my left, we have photographer Brian Alcazar, whose work is the subject of this panel. Brian, can you tell us a little about yourself and how you found yourself here? Brian Alcazar Hi, everyone. I’m Brian Alcazar-you might know me as @1st. I’m a photographer, and this project came about very randomly. TJ pulled up at one of my photo walks one day, and we connected while walking around taking photos. We thought it would be a good id...
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Time+Tide
TAG Heuer's latest collab with New Balance, which pairs a Connected smart watch with running shoes, makes surprising sense.The post Why TAG Heuer is breaking new boundaries with a powerful Connected collaboration with New Balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Panerai is a byword for large, luminescent, water-resistant tool watches built for the Italian Navy with a powerful design that has stood the test of time for more than 80 years. With a collection based on just two models – Radiomir and Luminor – Panerai has applied the adage that “if it ain’t broke, don’t […]
SJX Watches
The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...
Fratello
Atelier Wen has spent the last few years building a very different picture of Chinese watchmaking. After the recent launch of its flagship Inflection collection, the brand has shifted attention back to the Ancestra line, which was always meant to serve as the more artisanal counterpoint. That timing feels deliberate. The Inflection models reintroduced Atelier […] Visit Introducing: The New Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra Yáo to read the full article.
Monochrome
Bremont’s rise has been tied to modern aviation-leaning tool watches with solid mechanics built to be used. After the more experimental Terra Nova pieces, the British brand regrouped around its core strengths with the Altitude collection: a cleaner, aviation-inspired collection that also invited complications. At the top sits the Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Mono-Pusher, with […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
Do you love the Rolex Submariner, but just found its classic 41mm diameter way, way too small? Like, about 39mm too small? Have you looked at a barren corner of your desk and thought, Jeez, I wish my desktop had a jumbo-sized Submariner of its own, so people really know I’m about that Rolex Sub life? Well, if these questions have been keeping you up at night, I am here to deliver news of a possible solution to your problems. Though it didn’t get a ton of publicity (I think the Crown is saving its marketing campaigns for its wristwatches), Rolex quietly released its very first desk clock that is available for the general public. That’s right, you can now get your very own Submariner Date desk clock, given that a Rolex boutique near you has them in stock. Oddly enough, the Submariner Date desk clock marks the very first time Rolex has ever released a clock to the general public. You would have thought by now, the Crown would have a vintage archive of desk, wall, and other large-sized clocks somewhere in the heritage vault. I mean, just about every other major watchmaker with as much history as Rolex offered them throughout the 20th century, from Patek Philippe to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Omega to Longines and beyond. Even Bulova has an extensive repertoire of mid-century clocks, most significantly being its extensive array of mid-century clock radios (which you can find plenty of second-hand). But that isn’t to say that Rolex never explored making clocks – the Crow...
Monochrome
In just a few short years, Norqain has positioned itself as an independent watchmaker crafting versatile and adventure-ready watches. It was founded by Ben Küffer in 2018, and the pace at which Norqain has matured as a brand and developed a wide range of collections is rather impressive. It announced a partnership with Kenissi in […]
Worn & Wound
Singaporean independent brand Zelos is known for their colorful and texture-forward dials that strike a nice balance between affordability and unique design. Each new creation seems to drive their overall image forward in eclectic ways that keep the brand from fitting too rigidly into any one box. While Zelos is often associated with their sub $1,000 tool watches, they have made spectacular forays into the space of haute complications and uncommon materials in recent years. Their release of the Mirage in 2020, a watch that featured a tourbillon at a competitive $11,000 pricepoint, and their work using tantalum as a case material, is proof that the brand is committed to stretching the imagination regarding what a microbrand is capable of. Their newest release, the Comet 39, joins the ranks of the recent trend of stone dials we’ve seen permeating the hobby in the past few years. Since the trend is fairly new, my experience with stone dials is limited, and I was looking forward to getting hands-on with this piece. I was lucky to be able to pick up this review watch in-person at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City a few weeks ago while I was visiting. Complementary sizing by David Lane Design at Windup allowed me to wear the watch around the city during my trip and get a sense for how it moved with me during high-volume days. The Mother of Pearl (MOP) edition is one in a series of three Comet watches in the brand’s new Comet 39 line, all of which are crafted with vari...
Time+Tide
Here are a bunch of great dive watches from several different brands that will all ring up the till less than US$5,000.The post 11 of the best affordable dive watches for avoiding the bends on a budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...
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Time+Tide
Our man on the ground, Pietro Pilla, shares his take on Geneva's monumental November 2025 auctions, which were filled with record breakers.The post Pietro’s report from Geneva’s November 2025 auctions: from record breakers to hidden gems appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Brown is a divisive color; get it right, and it can make whatever it adorns seem luxurious, rich, and warm. Get it wrong or pair it with a color that doesn’t go well with earth tones, and you end up with something either dull or downright ugly. Fortunately, German watchmaker Hanhart has gone the right route when designing their 417 ES Mocha Flyback date, with a naming convention and brown and silver color pairing that conjures cafes on a rainy day. Made in collaboration with the Porsche Fahrer magazine, the Mocha Flyback is actually a handsomely-masked nod to motorsport, albeit with a coffee-centric aesthetic twist. The 42mm stainless steel case measures in at 49.75mm lug-to-lug, with a smooth stainless steel bezel, and a crown at the 3 o’clock position. Flanking the crown are two pushers-one matching steel at 2 o’clock, and one in a daring HyCeram red at 4. The red pusher is the sole deviation from the moody brown and silver design, and the first indication of the Mocha Flyback’s infatuation with speeding automobiles. It’s not just for optics, either; the bright red is a hallmark of flyback watches, intended to warn pilots (or race car drivers) before they accidentally reset the stop timer. The dial is a deep mocha brown, with two subdials inset at 3 and 9 o’clock for small seconds and 30-minute counter functionality; a date window sits at 6, replacing the numeral. Around the dial is a military-esque minute track, echoing the pilot watch origin of the model....
SJX Watches
Appointed Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux (GP) in early 2025, Marc Michel-Amadry has over two decades of leadership experience spanning both the auction world and fine watchmaking. A former head of Sotheby’s Switzerland and Chief Commercial Officer of IWC, he steps into the role at a pivotal moment for GP, which has spent the past three years refining its identity as an independent brand, alongside its sister brand Ulysse Nardin in the Sowind Group. I sat down with Mr Michel-Amadry not long after he took office to discuss what he has in store. Our conversation touched on the enduring relevance of the Laureato, the renewed importance of in-house innovation, and his plans to restore GP to its former glory. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You’ve covered a wide range of the industry, having worked with niche brands, major brands, and big groups. Tell us how you ended up at GP. MMA: People often tell me I don’t have a typical career path. Usually, you start somewhere and stay within the same group. But for me, every step has to have a purpose. I’ve always wanted to work for a brand that means something. By coincidence, I was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds - the home of GP. It’s a brand I’ve always followed. I met Luigi Macaluso early in my career and was struck by the sophistication and beauty of the brand. Beyond its know-how and history, GP has always expressed its own design because everything is in-house. Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, forme...
SJX Watches
On episode 19 of the SJX Podcast, we unpack the news that Francis Ford Coppola is selling his personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype at Phillips in a few weeks (along with most of his other watches). We also discuss the legacy of F.P. Journe, which is coming into sharper focus ahead of the opening of his museum next year. The centrepiece of the museum is set to be the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, which Mr Journe acquired earlier this year for CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Time+Tide
Australian microbrand Hz Watches debuts its third model line, a dressy daily inspired by the famous 1972 photograph of the Earth.The post Ground control to Major Tom: Hz Watches pays tribute to our planet with the HZ.03 Blue Marble appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Fratello
Yes, it’s that time again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we picked two technologically impressive watches. The first is the Rolex Land-Dweller, which debuted during Watches and Wonders in April of this year. The Land-Dweller will go up against the Grand Seiko SLGB005 that was introduced in September of this year. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
You have to hand it to Christopher Ward; they’ve been on a hell of a run. What was once a bit of an ‘also-ran’ brand with a stable of somewhat generic dive and dress watches has become a near-peerless independent powerhouse, turning out hit after hit and creating converts everywhere they (or at least their impressively enthusiastic team) go. Their latest offering, the C1 Jump Hour Mk V - released today - revives a complication with which the brand has a long history, and is sure to bring yet more converts to the fold. Now, despite a sense of increased affection for the English brand in the last few years and its general rise in popularity, I’ve not spent much time writing about Christopher Ward. I’ve also, outside of quick hits at Windup fairs and in passing moments, spent shockingly little hands-on time with the brand’s recent offerings. So when I was offered the chance to spend a few days with their latest release, I leapt at the opportunity, curious to see if I’d be pulled into the ranks of the converted, as so many of my colleagues at Worn & Wound have been. I’ve now spent much of the last week with the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V on my wrist, and I have to admit, I’m somewhat smitten. The Christopher Ward JJ01 Jump hour watches have been having a bit of a moment in the sun recently, but they’re nothing new to Christopher Ward. The brand introduced its first jump hour watch all the way back in 2011. The brand’s foray into the jump hour ...
Worn & Wound
Next week is Veterans Day, which for the last several years has marked an important moment for Vortic, the Colorado based watch brand specializing in repurposing vintage pocket watch movements and dials into wrist worn cases that serve as special tributes to America’s watchmaking past. Each year on Veterans Day, Vortic releases their Military Edition, a special series of watches that incorporate movements and dials sourced from watches commissioned by the United States military. The watches have been a big hit for Vortic since their introduction, usually selling out within minutes of going on sale. They draw not only watch collectors, but of course have a natural appeal to history lovers and collectors of military odds and ends – they really thread the needle perfectly across multiple bands of enthusiasm. This year’s release has some additional special significance as a total of three distinct options will be available when these watches launch, including the first ever Vortic watches running on a vintage Swiss movement. A quick recap of what the Military Edition actually consists of as a watch is probably the best place to start. Watches in the Military Edition are sourced from the AN5740-1 pocket watch, also known as the “Master Navigational Watch”, built to the specs of the Army Air Corp during World War II by Elgin, Waltham, and Hamilton. As with other historic watches built to military specs, the dials were standardized across all manufacturers, and each M...
Worn & Wound
There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...
Worn & Wound
Nomos has been busy. Along with the recent introduction of a quartet of new Tetras to the lineup which we discussed just last week, the German brand has also introduced a new version of the Metro. The Metro has an interesting place in the Nomos lineup. It’s not one of the original designs from the launch of the brand, but over time it’s come to be fairly emblematic of what the brand stands for from a design perspective. The simple circular case and wire lugs have a modern, minimal vibe to them. When wearing the watch you come away with the feeling that there’s only enough material here to hold everything together and keep it looking like a Nomos, and nothing more. The dial, too, is quite distinctive, with ultra thin and elongated syringe hands and a series of simple dots to mark minutes and hours. This new reference is a subtly updated take on a classic version of the Metro, with a new movement that solves a longstanding issue. The headline here is that the new Metro 38 Date runs on the still relatively new DUW 4601 caliber. This movement made its debut in the still incredibly weird and polarizing Tangente 2Date, which will be forever remembered for featuring not one but two date indications: one in a window at 6:00, and the other at the perimeter of the dial. This Metro, unlike the Tangente before it, only has a single date indicator at the 6:00 position. There have been many iterations on the Metro over the years, but this is the first time we’ve seen a date ve...
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