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Watches & Wonders: Our Favorite Under the Radar Releases Worn & Wound
Chronoswiss Behrens Apr 29, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Our Favorite Under the Radar Releases

Part of the fun of Watches & Wonders (in fact, most of the fun of Watches & Wonders) is discovering things you didn’t expect to find, or that slip through the cracks and don’t get nearly the attention you think they should once you see them in person. Let’s face it: the event is dominated by a handful of huge brands that save their absolute best for the show. But for every Tudor, Cartier, and Rolex, there’s a Chronoswiss, Behrens, and Hautlence releasing incredibly impressive watches we simply don’t talk about enough.  Here, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss recap some of their favorite watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders that slipped under the radar for one reason or another. If there’s a release you saw or read about from the show that you think isn’t getting its fair shake, let us know in the comments, we’d love to hear about it.  Zach Weiss Hautlence Kubera Hautlence isn’t a brand that does half-measures. Their watches are all in, featuring wild complications executed in intricate fashion, housed in massive, equally exotic cases. I take a meeting with them at Watches + Wonders every year because, while maybe not a brand that is quite in our wheelhouse, I personally find them fun and inspiring. Plus, the brand has a very self-aware attitude that’s refreshing. Well, this year was different because, for the first time ever, Hautlence launched a watch that, while thoroughly strange and unconventional, was also wearable, and priced, for Hautlence, in a ...

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Canadian Watchmaker Bradley Taylor Returns with the Ardea SJX Watches
Omega cal 30T2 architecture Apr 29, 2026

Canadian Watchmaker Bradley Taylor Returns with the Ardea

A Vancouver native who studied watchmaking in Switzerland, Bradley Taylor spent the last four years working on his own movement, an endeavour that is has finally in the Ardea. Manually wound with three hands, the Ardea is powered by a hand-made movement made by Mr Taylor, who incorporated a retrograde seconds, setting this apart from the high-end time-only watches that are now common. Mr Taylor made his debut with time-only watches that were powered by high-quality, but essentially stock, Vaucher movements. The Ardea, in contrast, is of his own making. He fabricated his own movement by building on the vintage Omega cal. 30T2 architecture and then making most of the watch himself, right down to the guilloche dial and solid gold wheels of the gear train. Mr Taylor’s attention to detail extends to surprising aspects of the watch, like the platinum applied numerals in a custom typeface. Initial thoughts The Ardea, and especially its movement, is the product of substantial manual craftsmanship. From milling to filing to drilling to polishing – Mr Taylor does almost all of it himself and has documented the process with many photos and videos. As a result, the Ardea is more artisanal than other recent indie creations that are engineer-conceived timepieces, and Mr Taylor deserves credit. Tapping the main plate Applying guilloche to the dial ring with a hand-cranked rose engine Mr Taylor’s choice of movement construction is not surprising, since the Omega cal. 30T2 architectu...

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Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces New Watches Apr 29, 2026

Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series

This month, I’ll be on 12 flights across four cities, two continents and nearly three weeks away from home, so – yeah – I’ve been thinking a lot about planes lately. Perhaps, quite coincidentally, Farer has been, too, with the launch of their new Pilot Collection Series II, with three new models debuting. The collection has been redesigned around a 40mm Grade 2 titanium case, with a bead-blasted finish and a brushed bezel with a coin-edge profile. Across the line, Farer keeps the focus on legibility and performance, using large markers, broad minute tracks and lozenge-shaped hands applied with Grade X2 Super-LumiNova.  Powering each watch is the Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. Since cockpits can be highly magnetic environments, Farer has protected the movement with an internal soft iron Faraday cage, giving the watches anti-magnetic resistance up to 500 Gauss – these are the little details of Farer that go beyond just theming a watch and making it functional and operational to those that inspired the collection. The Curtis, named for English aviator and flight test engineer Eleanor Lettice Curtis, uses a blue-grey guilloché dial divided into twelve slightly concave sections, catching the light in a way reminiscent, as Farer notes, to the motion of a propeller. It has applied Lumicast markers, pale yellow lume and orange accents, with an additional Curtis Eastern Arabic edition limited to 100 pieces. The Barnwell is...

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Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...

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Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours Apr 29, 2026

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature

As Watches & Wonders drew to a close, Patek Philippe opened its annual exhibition of Rare Handcrafts at its salon on Rue du Rhône. It was a peaceful escape from the hustle of the Palexpo, and the perfect setting to view several dozen pieces from the new collection, ranging from Dome Clocks to wristwatches and pocket watches. The exhibition is open to the public until May 9th. Attendance is free, but visitors must register in advance online. Dome Clocks Among the prevailing themes of this year’s collection, the power of nature featured prominently. The Dome Clock ref. 20202N-001 “Magma” is the perfect example. The organic composition is almost shocking in its simplicity and minimal palette of just five colours of transparent enamel — and just seven more used for miniature painting. The volcanic depiction is undeniably violent in a way that creates a pleasing tension with the controlled techniques employed to create it, including silver leaf paillonné and a needle technique for creating the lifelike look of the volcanic rock, outlined with more than 23 g of gold wire. Of course, fired enamel has a lot in common with magma. In short, this choice of molten medium contributes to the authenticity of the work. The glowing lava is mirrored on the dial with 12 large baguette-cut sapphire hour markers totaling about 3 cts. Like the other Dome Clocks featured, the Magma is powered by an electrically wound 17’’’ pocket watch movement that offers a look into the firm...

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RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as Apr 28, 2026

RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026

Another Watches and Wonders in the books. The first two editions were online only, but since 2022, I’ve been attending them all with pleasure. Watches and Wonders 2026 had some wonderful releases in store, and today, I’ll share my favorites from A. Lange & Söhne, Chopard, Piaget, Rolex, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as a few […] Visit RJ’s Best 5 Watches From Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium Monochrome
Farer Pilot Collection Series II Apr 28, 2026

Introducing – The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium

Cushion cases, GMTs, three-handers, divers… British independent watchmaker Farer is doing a bit of everything. The brand also likes to revisit its collections, as seen with the updated field watches in 2024. After those military-inspired pieces, it was only a matter of time before Farer returned to its pilot watches, first introduced in 2020. Their […]

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Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Apr 28, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial

Marking the centenary of its signature Oyster case, Rolex has introduced a new polychrome ‘Jubilee’ dial for the Oyster Perpetual 36. An appealing new variant of a tangibly excellent product, the Jubilee dial will likely appeal to both experienced Rolex collectors as well as those who have historically found the brand’s designs too sedate. Initial thoughts Rolex is a brand that takes itself seriously. At times, the brand’s product development cycle seems to move at a glacial pace, but this is part of the discipline that has made Rolex the most successful maker of luxury watches by some margin — collectors have learned they can trust Rolex to keep a good thing going. So when the brand decides to have a little fun, it’s almost shocking. The brightly coloured Jubilee dial motif — built up of 10 layers of coloured lacquer — is certainly fun, and reminiscent of the ‘Celebration’ dial launched in 2023 in both 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. The Jubilee model pictured is the 36 mm size, but the design is also available in 41 mm (ref. 134300) and 31 mm (ref. 277200). The ‘Celebration’ dial was launched in 2023 in both 41 mm (left) and 36 mm sizes. The Oyster Perpetual 36 case keeps its nearly ideal proportions — small and sleek enough to disappear under a shirt cuff but chunky enough to hold its own with short sleeves. Substantively, it could make a proverbial ‘one-watch collection’ but given its exuberant dial will probably appeal most to seasoned collectors...

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Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

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Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole Apr 27, 2026

Introducing: The Bulova Lunar Pilot Black Hole [Live Pics]

What We Know Bulova nerds, rejoice! Finally, after years and years of customers and collectors pleading, the Lunar Pilot is now available in a smaller size. Now, if you were hoping that you'd be able to run out and buy the classic Lunar Pilot design just downsized a bit, sadly, you're not in luck for now. But those looking for a twist on the original may be intrigued, as Bulova introduces the smaller case size in a new, blacked-out design called the Lunar Pilot Black Hole. The new case maintains the cushion-cased silhouette of the original, but is slimmed down from the original 43.5mm diameter to 41mm. The case thickness is 13.05mm, and the lug-to-lug is 48mm. The matte finish of the case and bracelet is achieved through sandblasting and PVD coating, lending it a stealthy look with a darkness that permeates the entire design. Parts like the crown, chronograph pushers, and top bezel ring are in glossy black PVD. The dial also leans completely monochromatic, with grey accents on the sandblasted hands and applied hour markers, and grey printing of the minute track, Bulova logo, and sundial markings. The base of the dial itself is coated in Musou black paint, which theoretically absorbs 99.4% of light for a truly black look. A nice touch is the grey Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands that glow blue in the dark. Sitting underneath the tall sapphire crystal is an internal tachymeter in relief, adding an extra layer of dimensionality to the dial. While the 60-minute counter ...

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It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases Fratello
Apr 25, 2026

It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases

This year, I wasn’t looking for something I could own. This year’s Watches and Wonders, I was ready to be amazed, surprised, and blown away by impressive stuff. I was in the mood for complications, not retro-chic dress watches or buffed-up icons. Well, the salon didn’t disappoint, and the participating brands made it complicated for […] Visit It’s Complicated To Choose: Lex’s Three Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases to read the full article.

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Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion Three New Marc Apr 25, 2026

Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber

Jaeger-LeCoultre had a pretty impressive Watches and Wonders, with several high-horology releases and a new range of integrated-bracelet Master Control models. The team would surely have been forgiven for taking a few days off in the lovely Vallée de Joux to catch its breath. Instead, JLC flew straight to Milan, Italy, for the Salone del […] Visit Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber to read the full article.

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Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026 Hodinkee
Ming experience Apr 24, 2026

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year, as spring returns to the shores of Lake Geneva, bringing with it contrasting days of grey rainy dreariness and crisp, shimmering sunshine, a storm descends upon the picturesque canton. But this storm doesn't contain the aforementioned April showers; instead, it's thousands upon thousands of passionate professionals, journalists, retailers, brand representatives, and collectors, all congregating for that most celebrated of horological weeks: Watches & Wonders. For those who attend, it is a marathon of epic proportions, with days spent rushing from one appointment to the next with barely a moment to breathe and evenings spent either at fabulous dinners or hunched over laptops until the wee hours of the morning. It's a pace that gives you whiplash (and for those who work for the brands, be it in sales, PR, marketing, or otherwise, it is even more grueling). For everyone else following along at home with a love for watches, it is the Super Bowl, Christmas Morning, and the Emerald City at the end of the Yellow Brick Road, all rolled into one. Walking into the show for the first time is an overwhelming experience. The sheer scope and scale of the installations (to call them 'booths' deeply undersells the grandeur) are hard to understand. Each brand spends months, if not years, designing and building entire flagship boutiques within the halls of Palexpo, each trying to make an impact on the industry and communicate its themes, strategies, and identity for the coming ye...

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First Look – Chapter Two in the Revival of L. Leroy with the New Elyor Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Apr 24, 2026

First Look – Chapter Two in the Revival of L. Leroy with the New Elyor Flying Tourbillon

Parisian watchmaking maison L. Leroy was founded by Basile-Charles Le Roy in 1785 and became the official watchmaker to King Louis XVI and later to Napoleon I and Queen Victoria. Expanding operations to Switzerland, L. Leroy produced marine chronometers for the French Navy and amassed 384 gold medals in chronometry competitions. Iconic masterpieces like the […]

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Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Apr 24, 2026

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language

We wouldn’t go as far as to say that there’s something fundamentally different about the way Jiro Katayama approaches watchmaking. After all, industrial design, be it cars, instruments, or machinery, has inspired and defined quite a few independents. Still, most start from horology and branch outward, yet the mind behind Otsuka Lotec comes directly from […]

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One More Look At All The L.U.C Watches That Chopard Presented During Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Chopard Presented During Watches Apr 23, 2026

One More Look At All The L.U.C Watches That Chopard Presented During Watches And Wonders 2026

Get ready for a wave of L.U.C watches that Chopard presented during Watches and Wonders 2026. Apart from another look at the L.U.C 1860 with an Areuse blue dial in Lucent Steel, there are also the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, L.U.C Strike One Titanium, two versions of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – Straw Marquetry […] Visit One More Look At All The L.U.C Watches That Chopard Presented During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

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The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko 1968 Diver Gets Apr 23, 2026

The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement

Seiko has been revisiting its 1968 Diver's platform for years now, and the Prospex Heritage family keeps getting more interesting with each wave of releases. The latest additions are the HBC001 and HBC002, two new references that bring a mechanical GMT complication to the lineage for the first time. Both watches reference the 1968 original while expanding what the modern Prospex Heritage line can do. Availability is set for May this year. The post The Iconic Seiko 1968 Diver Gets A New Automatic GMT Movement appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.

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Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches Hodinkee
Massena Lab all part Apr 23, 2026

Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches

What We Know Fans of titanium watches now have another truly notable bracelet/strap option for their favorite titanium watches, as Ming has just announced that the brand's frankly jaw-dropping Polymesh bracelet will now be sold in a straight springbar setup. Ming launched the original Polymesh spec back in October of last year, with curved links designed to work well with the brand's own watches. As of today, all 1742 components of this impressive design are now compatible with watches featuring 20mm lug widths, no curved spring bar needed.  For those who need a refresher, the Polymesh is a titanium design that is technically a bracelet but wears like a piece of fabric. It's soft, flowy, and incredibly comfortable. As mentioned, it's a 3D-printed design printed in place using laser sintering with titanium powder. This includes the buckle and endlinks. There are no pins or screws in the design; only the quick-change spring bars are added after the grade-5 titanium bracelet has been printed (which takes about 20 hours).  Just as with the original curved-end version, the Polymesh Straight will retail for CHF $1,500 (~$1,900) with first-week availability limited to Ming, Fears, and Massena LAB (all part of the Alternative Horological Alliance), after which, availability will also include Ming's own retail locations and partners.  What We Think I'll cut to the chase here: I love a good strap and/or bracelet, I have a handful of titanium watches, and this is a release I have ...

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Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 Fratello
Patek Philippe s Hidden Gem Apr 23, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015

Every year, Patek Philippe unveils an abundance of releases during Watches and Wonders. This year, it was no different, with the number of new watches far exceeding 20. I always go over all the new introductions in detail after the show because only then do I have the time to reflect on them. As a […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 to read the full article.

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Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement Worn & Wound
Bremont Goes Upmarket Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design.  The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color.  Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for.  If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...

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In-Depth – Impressions About the Rolex Daytona Rolesium 126502, a.k.a The Ultimate Cosmograph Monochrome
Rolex Daytona Rolesium 126502 a.k.a Apr 22, 2026

In-Depth – Impressions About the Rolex Daytona Rolesium 126502, a.k.a The Ultimate Cosmograph

Without a doubt, one of the most discussed releases of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 and the biggest surprise of Rolex for its 2026 collection… There’s now a new steel Rolex Daytona, but actually not quite. See, for decades, the steel Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona has been available in basically two versions only – white […]

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