Results for ETA 2892-A2

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Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Skipper Carrera TAG Heuer’s Aug 3, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The New TAG Heuer Skipper Carrera

TAG Heuer’s iconic racing chronograph, the Carrera, is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, and is taking full advantage of the opportunity to revamp parts of the collection and introduce some special editions along the way. Earlier this year we saw the release of a new ‘glassbox’ style 39mm Carrera released, within a collection of 5 new references. But there was another one waiting in the wings, which finally saw release last month, a new Skipper Carrera which brings the now familiar colorway to the slick modern chassis. It works just as well as you might expect, and best of all, it joins the collection as a regular production model. It is through this watch that we’ll be taking a closer look at the new Carrera collection as a whole, with special attention to the unique details that make the Skipper, well, the Skipper.  The new Carrera represents the second generation of the modern 39mm glassbox design, which was first launched in 2015 with the Caliber 18 Telemeter. There have been 8 separate, limited edition variations on that original glassbox design in the intervening years, and this new generation marks the first time that it will see full, non-limited production since that initial example back in 2015. This style of crystal, which domes sharply at the edge of the case, is meant to mimic the original plastic crystal of early Carrera watches of the ‘60s. It wasn’t without fault, however, and the latest generation brings a creative solution to the ta...

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Swatch Aug 3, 2023

Swatch Asks “What If?” with their New Collection of Square, Bioceramic Watches

Alternative realities have long held the imagination of humans. From ancient Roman historian, Livy, to 20th century physicist, Hugh Everett, to Marvel movies of today, we have long tried to answer the question of, “What if…” Now, Swatch has taken it upon themselves to ask this very question in their latest collection, aptly titled WHAT IF? To understand this new release, one must look back into Swatch’s history for a moment. In 1982, the Swiss watch brand had a choice between a round or square model that would be their inaugural design. While we all know the circular design that has become standard for Swatch, WHAT IF? is an alternative reality of sorts, showing us what could have been, had they gone with a square dial from the beginning. Four colorways are available in the WHAT IF? collection, including black, gray, beige, and green. While these may seem like a complete 180 from the vibrant colorways that are now synonymous with Swatch, the neutral tones of the WHAT IF? series reflect the design sensibilities of the early 1980s – which somehow still feel modern today. Each model in the series is made from Swatch’s proprietary bioceramic material (a phrase you’ll know if you were a fan of their MoonSwatch release last year). Mixing ceramic powder with bio sourced materials, bioceramic is inherently durable without added weight or bulk, making it a perfect material for an everyday timepiece like those in the Swatch collection. Each reference clocks in at 33mm,...

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Time+Tide

Raketa Jul 31, 2023

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa

Despite what some marketing departments would have you think, there’s almost never such a thing as a centuries-old watch brand with an unbroken history. Whether it’s a change of ownership, bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis, or a pivot to an entirely different technology, consistent survival as a watch brand requires adaptation. Raketa don’t come up … ContinuedThe post From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Hamilton LED Starting off Jul 27, 2023

eBay Finds: Chronographs, Divers, and All the LED Watches You Could Ever Want

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Hamilton LED Starting off this week with a bang with this killer full kit vintage Hamilton model QED IX LED watch. This super-futuro looking gold plated watch is the epitome of the 1970’s LED watches. The wide case tapes to a narrow integrated link bracelet that is signed with the Hamilton logo. The case and bracelet appear to be in great shape with little wear. The watch runs and works well, keeping time per the seller. Best of all, this beauty comes with the full, and I do mean full, kit. Inner and outer boxes, instructions, warranty, hang tags and even the original sales receipt from 1976…..Boom! View auction here. Timex Sport Diver Here we have a great little vintage Timex diver that will be easy on the wallet. Vintage divers can get quite pricey, so it’s nice to find one like this that looks great but won’t break the bank. This Timex has a chrome plated base metal case with uniquely shaped hidden lugs. The chrome plating is excellent, with very little wear except the crown, which is quite common. The black dial has applied metal markers with cool red squares painted in them for an unusual look. The elapsed time diver’s bezel is three quarters red and one quarter...

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SJX Watches

Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

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Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered Jul 25, 2023

Parmigiani Releases the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Pacific Blue”

Parmigiani Fleurier has again partnered with Singapore-based Sincere Fine Watches, resulting in the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Pacific Blue SHH Edition. Conceived for the retailer’s independents-focused store, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), the watch features a unique, light blue hue for the barleycorn guilloché dial, while retaining the characteristic integrated-bracelet design and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Initial thoughts The Tonda PF has been a crowd favourite due to the fact that it’s an original take on the popular integrated bracelet design, while also having excellent proportions. At the same time, the barleycorn guilloché dial arguably boasts amongst the finest engine turning on a sports watch. So a new shade for the dial is a welcome thing, since it adds an good looking option to an already appealing watch. However, I would have hoped for something more distinctive to set apart the SHH Edition beyond the dial colour. Another guilloche pattern for the dial, for instance, would have made it truly stand out. While the standard model has proven extremely popular – Parmigiani has since unveiled many complicated iterations of the model – it is nice to see that this will only be produced in a limited quantity, adding a level of exclusivity to the new dial, which will surely be appreciated by clients of SHH. Priced at around US$27,000 before taxes, this carries a 10% premium over to the regular-production version. Considering that this is a limited ed...

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Citizen Introduces Jul 24, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver “Fujitsubo” in DLC Titanium

Citizen’s flagship mechanical dive watch gets an upgrade with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new “Fujitsubo” diver features a gradient-finish grey dial, but its standout feature is the case and bracelet in the brand’s proprietary hardened titanium alloy coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts Sometimes underestimated, Citizen’s dive watches don’t garner as much attention as those of its competitor Seiko, primarily due to the scarcity of mechanical dive in Citizen’s lineup. Most of Citizen’s dive watches are solar-powered or quartz. Nevertheless, the Japanese watchmaker has recently taken significant steps towards boosting its mechanical offerings, particularly with the introduction of the oversized and modern Promaster 200 m diver. The “Fujitsubo”, on the other hand, takes inspiration from the Challenge Diver of 1977, explaining its vintage styling. But this latest iteration exudes a more contemporary feel owing to the gradient grey dial and the DLC coating on the case and bracelet. The resulting shades-of-grey livery makes this stand apart from its predecessor, which was essentially a like-for-like remake.  Priced at US$1,195, the “Fujitsubo” DLC is a bit more expensive than the standard titanium model. Nonetheless, it justifies the higher price tag with improved aesthetics and the superior durability offered by the DLC coating. That said, it would have been even more appealing with the option of a rubber ...

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Greubel Forsey Goes Big Jul 21, 2023

Greubel Forsey Goes Big with Smaller Sports Watches

Historically known for its oversized, over-complicated watches, Greubel Forsey appears to be taking a step in a different direction as its resizes two of its bestselling sports watches, the Balancier Convexe S2 and Double Balancier Convexe. The Convexe duo are now thinner and smaller, while retaining the same ovoid form with a curved profile that characterises the brand’s sports watches. While the difference in case size between the earlier models and the new pair is worth noting, the downsizing is arguably more significant in its implications for the direction of the brand, which also recently announced an expansion to its sloping, glass-box manufacture. The Double Balancier Convexe (left), and Balancier Convexe S2 Initial thoughts  A reduction in size from Greubel Forsey is rather unexpected since its watches have traditionally been unashamedly large. To be fair, the brand utilised the large cases well to best display the complex movements and expert finishing. However, the extra-large watches, along with typically hefty price tags, have always placed the brand in a niche of its own – not only did buyers need the means to buy a six-figure watch, but also have the wrist circumference to pull it off.  While we have seen a shift in taste over the last couple of years towards decreasing case diameters, Greubel Forsey and its peer in the same price range, namely Richard Mille, had seemed immune to the change – or simply resistant. So, while the seemingly innocuous red...

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Deployant

HYT Jul 21, 2023

New: HYT Hastroid Blue Star

HYT releases a 20 piece limited edition Hastroid Blue Star featuring a magnesium case with subtle metallic blue gradient.

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Time+Tide

Hamilton watches get eye-catching cameos Jul 20, 2023

Vintage Hamilton watches get eye-catching cameos in Oppenheimer

Now that the thrilling and heart-wrenching Oppenheimer has hit theatres, watch fanatics will surely be clamouring to find out what’s on the wrists of the cast. Christopher Nolan is known for his attention to detail and commitment to practical effects, so watches would never be a costuming afterthought. Hamilton must have amassed the greatest relationship … ContinuedThe post Vintage Hamilton watches get eye-catching cameos in Oppenheimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Swatch Jul 17, 2023

Swatch Debuts the Big Bold Irony Collection, Combining Steel and Bioceramic

Summer is in full swing, cool and casual is the name of the game, and for Swatch that means bigger and bolder watches. Big Bold Irony, that is. For the first time, the brand is bringing its Irony treatment to the Big Bold lineup in the form of five new watches. The Irony collection was originally conceived in the 1990s as a premium offering featuring cases made from metal, and indeed, the new Big Bold Irony watches are fitted with stainless steel cases. They are also the first to combine steel with Swatch’s proprietary Bioceramic. There’s no getting around the fact that these watches truly live up to their namesake. At 47mm wide, they undoubtedly make a statement. Swatch has cleverly shaped the lugs, which start towards the underside of the case and curve sharply downwards, resulting in a case length of just 44.8mm. This is identical to the current Big Bold collection and is remarkably wearable for a wide audience. In fact, the only difference in dimension between these and the standard Big Bolds is thickness: the new Irony watches are 13.3mm thick as opposed to 11.75mm in plastic. Swatch’s design choice of keeping the crown at 2 o-clock ensures it will never dig into your wrist, and at 108 grams (with a quartz movement), these watches can easily be worn all day, every day, which is kind of the point. With five options of summery colors – Dark Irony (Black), Azure Blue Daze, Red Juicy, Mint Trim, and Bolden Yellow – you will have no trouble finding one that match...

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TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Launched Jul 14, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

Launched in 1968 as a chronograph for sailors, the Skipper ref. 7754 has long been one of the more idiosyncratic models created by Heuer, novel and rare enough to be sought after by Heuer aficionados. Now the brand has revived the model in a gently modernised format with the TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper. Based on the Carrera “Glassbox” introduced in March, the new watch retains the regatta-inspired aesthetic of its predecessor but is very much its own watch. Initial thoughts  While not nearly as well as known as its auto racing-inspired stablemates like the Autavia and Monaco, the Skipper is very much in keeping with Heuer’s historical speciality of functional chronographs conceived for professional sportspeople. Despite being a fairly niche model, the vintage Skipper is memorable thanks to a distinctive aesthetic, which has been smartly transplanted into the new Skipper. The new Skipper has a vintage-inspired aesthetic but is a clearly a modern watch, demonstrating TAG Heuer’s ability to successfully reimagine its historical models. It retains the key design elements that made the original memorable, namely the coloured sub-dials and orange seconds hand. But the new model isn’t a remake, but is essentially a variant of the Carrera Glassbox. As a result, it shares the appeal of the Glassbox, including the case styling and in-house movement. But like the Glassbox, the Skipper feels a little thick at just under 14 mm high, a consequence of the movement inside. Notab...

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Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

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Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Jul 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan 2026

Patek Philippe recently concluded its biggest Watch Art Grand Exhibition to date with the Tokyo exhibition. The event in the Japanese capital showcased almost 500 timepieces, along with limited editions and Rare Handcrafts created especially for the event, which were seen by some 60,000 visitors at the end of its two-week run in Shinjuku. Now the event will return to Europe in October 2026, taking place in Milan, the commercial capital of a country that was historically a great consumer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” made for Watch Art Tokyo 2023 The Milan exhibition will be the seventh Watch Art exhibition after Dubai (2012), Munich (2013), London (2015), New York (2017), Singapore (2019), and Tokyo (2023). Originally planned for 2025 but later rescheduled, the Milan event will take place October 2-18, 2026. It will be open to the public at no charge. More details will be provided in due time. Update August 15, 2025: Dates of exhibition corrected.

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Yema Jul 11, 2023

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases

Yema is fleshing out their young Traveller collection, which made its debut just last year, with a new family of integrated bracelet sport watches called the Urban Traveller. The new family is on-trend with a design that features the now familiar hallmarks of the genre, such as a flat link bracelet that integrates with the case, a flat octagonal mid case with single piece bezel, and a textured dial. Check, check, and check. The Urban Traveller does take a unique approach in a few ways, however, and more options of a good thing is, well, a good thing.  Yema is a French brand that was founded in 1948, with an increasing selection of in-house labeled movements, which we’ve discussed before launched, somewhat curiously, via Kickstarter. The Traveller collection of watches have been no exception, with the template for the Urban Traveller, called the Wristmaster Traveller, hitting funded status in late 2022. That watch, which recalled Yema’s heritage with the use of the Wristmaster label, featured a colorful selection of in-house ultra-thin micro-rotor movements, a playful choice that set that watch apart from other integrated sport watches. The Urban Traveller takes a more direct approach to the design, using Yema’s YEMA2000 movement, which is around 80% in-house, instead of the colorful micro-rotor movements seen in the Wristmaster Traveller. This change means a slightly thicker case and a closed caseback, as well as a dramatic reduction in pricing. The ultra-thin Wrist...

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Jul 11, 2023

Business News: Watches & Wonders Announces 2024 Dates

Building on the success of this year’s edition, the world’s largest luxury watch fair returns next year: Watches & Wonders 2024 will take place once again at the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva from April 9-15, 2023, with the last three days being open to the public. The 2023 event saw a record 43,000 visitors attend, almost double the number in 2022. Next year’s Watches & Wonders (W&W;) will probably be even bigger. The list of participating brands for next year’s fair will be announced at a later date, though it is expected that the tally will rise compared to this year’s instalment. At the same time, W&W; next year will include three “public days” at the end where anyone can buy a ticket to enter, an increase over the two days of 2023. The growing list of exhibiting brands and additional public days furthers the event’s goal of making itself more accessible, while still enabling members of the trade, namely press and retailers, to attend the fair during the trade-only period during the first four days of the event. The increase in both exhibitors and public days brings the event closer to the model of Baselworld, which welcomed exhibitors and visitors from everywhere. And as was the case this year, brands with boutiques in downtown Geneva, mainly on the Rue du Rhône, will organise in-store events in addition to the goings-on inside Palexpo. These city events will be primarily for the public and clients.  

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Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

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Time+Tide

Jul 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off

While this week has had some interesting releases like the new Luis Vuitton Tambour W, the thing many watch enthusiasts have been discussing this week is not actually a watch or even industry news. It is a new social media platform: Threads. Meta launches Threads – will it take off within the watch community? I … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Citizen Citizen Jul 6, 2023

It’s The Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview!

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is closer than ever! If you’ve been following along, you know Windup is growing fast. This year, we are returning to the same venue in the West Loop and adding more watches, more live events, more accessories, and a whole lot more in general. You don’t want to miss it. As a reminder, here are the key event details: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Here’s a sneak preview of just some of the watches from our Lead Sponsors you’ll be able to get your hands on at Windup this year. For a full roster of presenting brands, scheduled events, and a product showcase, head to windupwatchfair.com and join our email community. Citizen Citizen, a trusted name and brand leader in the watch industry for over 100 years, is known the world over for its uncompromising values: technical precision, innovative mindset, quality craftsmanship and design excellence. The first to create quartz crystal and titanium timepieces, Citizen was also an early pioneer in advocating for the environment, launching the first light-powered watches with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thus adding eco-mindful as a core value. Citizen’s diverse portfolio of high-performance and eco-mindful watches is accessibly priced and ranges from professional-grade, sport-inspired designs with advanced functions to sophisticated, timeless silhouet...

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Time+Tide

Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives Jul 6, 2023

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five has finally been given a steel alternative. While the bronze version from 2021 is still great, it’s not as versatile as a steel watch. Colour theory dictates that the different metal tones affect how we view the pastel dial colours. A couple of years ago you could barely go … ContinuedThe post The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ Jul 5, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With The Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ in Steel

Last month, Oris introduced a followup collection to their incredibly popular Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection, this time rendered in 38mm steel cases. The bright dials and steel bezel works just as well here as they did in the bronze case variants from last year. These new dial colors feel right at home in the 38mm steel case, which is a first for a regular production Divers Sixty-Five watch. It should come as no surprise that the watches retain their big personality in person, which we discover in this first look at the new summer ready batch of Diver Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection. We haven’t been shy about our preference for this case size in the Diver Sixty-Five range, and we’re happy to see it make its way into a steel configuration. The bright dials feel fresh and modern, creating some potential conflict with the riveted three link bracelet that’s on offer. Thankfully that’s an easy opportunity to create a vibe of your own with a different strap, or even the perlon fabric strap that’s also offered by Oris for these watches. It’s a look that could take a number of forms depending on the strap choice. As fun as the Cotton Candy collection is, seeing this case size take hold in the regular production range of the Diver Sixty-Five offers an exciting prospect of seeing other variations take shape in the same size. It feels like only a matter of time before we see a regular black or blue dial or even a complication make its way over. Either way, t...

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Worn & Wound

Jul 5, 2023

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication

The industrial designs of ochs und junior watches have an immense impact allowed by their near brutalistic design codes, but the sheer simplicity of their approach to complications is what really draws us in. Their perpetual calendar being the penultimate example, requiring just 9 new components within the movement to operate. Ochs und junior are bringing this level of thinking to their line collection, which we’ve covered since its inception, with the introduction of a new moonphase capable of remaining accurate for 3,478.27 years before being off by a single day. In true ochs und junior fashion, they’ve accomplished this with the addition of just 5 additional parts to the ETA 2824-2 movement.  The new line watch is called the moon phase / selene, and it brings the moon to the dial in a unique manner, as you may have guessed when it comes to ochs und junior. There is a large moon phase aperture cut through through the bottom portion of the dial, with a monochromatic representation of the moon at opposing ends of a rotating disc. Dots underneath the dial represent each day, and each phase that the moon passes through. The remainder of the dial is rendered almost entirely in ochs blue, creating a rather serene experience of the romantic complication, save for the silver hour markers at each even hour. The total aesthetic here is classic ochs und junior, with minimal representation of the core components, and an untouched, raw experience of the materials at use. The two...

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Louis Vuitton has Jul 5, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour

Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...

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Patek Philippe complications Jul 5, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Watches Online

The summer tends to be a quiet period in the watch world since most of Switzerland goes on holiday. However, Sotheby’s Hong Kong is staging one major event before the summer lull with an online sale running for just over a week. Fine Watches opens on July 5th and runs until the 14th featuring 272 lots ranging from Patek Philippe complications to simple time-only Cartier. We cover highlights from the sale below – the catalogue can be seen here – but before that we look at something special. Happening alongside the online auction is a sealed auction for an Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P-013 with a custom-order black dial that runs online from July 13-21. The ref. 5002P once held the title of most complicated wristwatch Patek Philippe ever produced and remains a landmark in Patek Philippe watchmaking. Not only is this ref. 5002P possibly unique thanks to the striking black dial, it is also double sealed – in other words brand new. Since 2017 Patek Philippe has banned its retailers from selling sealed watches and so an double-sealed example of a special-order grand complication on the secondary market is rare. This double-dial complication offers an incredible opportunity to collectors, since the last time we saw this a sealed example of this reference at auction was back in 2018 at Antiquorum where it sold for just under US$1.2 million, and that was just single sealed. Prices have naturally climbed since then. In fact, this example mirrors the one that ...

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Worn & Wound

Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

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Ulysse Nardin Introduces Jul 3, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Enamel Blue

Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jun 30, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Antzoulis

Editor’s note: This 3 watch collection for $5,000 is brought to us by Chris Antzoulis, who you may know on Instagram as @PoppingCrowns, who gives us a well reasoned, and well diversified trio of watches that aren’t short on personality. We love the mix of tones and colors, as well as the subtle details that remain to be discovered.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. What was the most embarrassing phase of your life? Think about it…but, I’ll go first. I was (and still am on the inside) an emo kid. I listened to Yellowcard and Saves the Day, played in a band called Autumn’s Disaster (a disaster indeed), wore all black all the time and applied my mom’s eyeliner before playing shows. I wanted to highlight the heartbreak. Adult Chris has gained some perspective. In order to see color we have to embody it in a purposeful way. I view watches as an extension of my personality, and an intentional piece of an outfit’s design (my favorite piece). I’m no outdoorsman. My dive watches are lucky to see a pool, field watches would be perplexed by a hike up a mountain, and if you tell me you use your chronograph for more than just timing things in the kitchen for funsies, then I dub you a liar and a scoundrel!  I don’t NEED tools; I am capable of being enough of one on my own, to then also have to wear one on the wrist. Joke’s aside, my choices for a three-watch collection under $5000 are...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Formex Jun 30, 2023

Formex Watches Guide

Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio.  Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces Cartier Jun 30, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum

Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash.  Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job.  Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...

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