Two Broke Watch Snobs
Experiencing Real Value With The Dryden Heartlander Automatic Field Watch
Reviewing the affordable Dryden Heartlander automatic field watch. Read to view hands-on photos, specs, pricing, and more.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewing the affordable Dryden Heartlander automatic field watch. Read to view hands-on photos, specs, pricing, and more.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer is celebrating the Carrera’s 60th Birthday this year, and doing so, has released the vintage inspired 39mm “Glassbox” Carrera Chronograph at Watches and Wonders. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the watches prior to it’s release, and was quietly impressed! What We Like Great styling and designComfortable and easy to wearSizing hits the mark What We Don’t Like Leather strap could use some additional styling cuesLack of lume on the dialMovement finishing is a step up from the old, but could be better given the price point Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8/10 No matter what you think about TAG Heuer, it’s hard to argue that they are one of the most recognised luxury watch brands in the world. Synonymous with motorsport, TAG Heuer have helped to shape the modern day chronograph, evolving the Carrera over the six decades since Jack Heuer designed and produced the very first Carrera in 1963. For those keeping track, I was not the biggest fan of TAG Heuer, and wasn’t until I reviewed the 60th Anniversary Edition TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronograph (which you can check out here) around 12 months ago that I started to change my mind. The all new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” TAG Heuer are having a renaissance of sorts. They are revisiting their roots, heading back to the days of Jack Heuer and what helped to make them the brand they are today. And the new Carrera Chronogra...
SJX Watches
Having already unveiled a slew of watches ranging from the uber-impressive Universelle grand complication to a compact Royal Oak with a turquoise stone dial, Audemars Piguet (AP) is also marking the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. The commemorative editions started with the brand dropping the all-ceramic version of the original designed by Emmanuel Gueit. And they continue with the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm, a tribute to the watch worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1999 film that was the brand’s first celebrity limited edition. Initial thoughts From the onset, it is clear this is not a remake. Instead, AP has restyled the Offshore 43 mm, combining the black-and-yellow livery of the original “End of Days” with an all-ceramic case. The result is a good looking sports chronograph that brings with it some of the original’s nostalgia – the original “EOD” was one of the hottest limited editions of its era. The new “End of Days” is a massive upgrade from the original in terms of materials and finish. The ceramic case is far more robust than the original’s black-coated steel, while the movement is now a sophisticated in-house calibre. But all that comes with a big price tag. At US$60,300, the new “End of Days” costs almost double its titanium counterparts. The price premium for ceramic is pretty standard across the AP lineup, so while it is expected it is still substantial. At the same time, the new “End of Days...
Time+Tide
The new Hermès H08 watches experiment with composite case materials Include exciting design features in a surprisingly smooth package We also get a preview of the Monopusher Chronograph model to be released in 2024 Creating a contemporary sports watch design that’s totally unique isn’t easy, especially when you want to keep it aesthetically accessible to … ContinuedThe post Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain is now the official timekeeper of the Zürich Marathon The Zürich Marathon is celebrating its 20th anniversary The 20 Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition watches feature a dial with a map of Zürich and the marathon track Norqain is a watch brand that refuses to sit still, and understandably so. Considering the brand … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Lange Odysseus luxury sports watch collection gets a complication. Here is our detailed review of the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph celebrates the Offshore’s 30th anniversary This black ceramic model pays homage to the Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” (ref. 25770SN) released in 1999 in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger The new 43mm model repeats the high-contrast aesthetic of yellow on black The background It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Presenting the all new Ingenieur Automatic 40 models are available through selected IWC boutiques. Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2023
Revolution
At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, got his hands on an Alpina Extreme Regulator Automatic, which now comes with an integrated bracelet and blue dial. He discussed this cool novelty with the Brand Director of Alpina, Oliver van Lanschot. Alpina has also released an 888-piece limited edition black dial […]
Revolution
Roger Dubuis CEO Nicola Andreatta shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph, an absorbing work of architecture and feat of engineering that beats gravity. Firstly, its high-efficiency Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight harnesses gravity to power the watch and necessitated eight months of research and development. Next, its Conical Monovortex Tourbillon […]
Hodinkee
The entry point into the Octo collection gets refreshed and refined (and gets a chronograph).
Worn & Wound
This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year. With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small. Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
At Watches and Wonders 2023 the iconic Japanese brand shared their next innovative vision for their product line's direction: the SLG001G Tentagraph, their first ever mechanical chronograph.
Time+Tide
Four new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 watches – three in steel one in titanium Better reflects the design codes of the original 1976 Gerald Genta Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 design Uses latest IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre with a power reserve of 120 hours We have long remained in throws of the integrated steel sports craze. But, while … ContinuedThe post The IWC Ingenieur gets a modern makeover that better honors its past with new Automatic 40 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New racing-inspired colourways for the 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Black and blue sunburst dials are offset with bright orange and red accents The watches are powered by the in-house column wheel chronograph calibre Heuer 02 The lineage of the Carrera is a rich one – beginning in 1963, named after the fearsome Carrera Panamericana … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic. The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...
Time+Tide
The history of the TAG Heuer Carrera begins in 1963, when two legends were born: the Heuer Carrera and the Porsche 911.The post IN-DEPTH: The history of the TAG Heuer Carrera is inspired by a race with a serious body count appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Back in 2018 we reviewed a watch from Meraud called the Bonaire, a time-only diver with some stylish undertones that elevated it from mere neo-vintage diver from a micro-brand status. In closing, Ilya expressed excitement about the future of the brand, and how that might manifest in different models. This week, we’re finally getting a look at the next chapter with the release of the hand-wound chronograph called the Antigua. This is a watch no longer content with stylish undertones, instead opting for outright stylish, full stop. The Antigua oozes personality from damn near every angle, and while not without fault, this is a watch that’s not just fun, but unexpected. Colorful hand-wound chronographs from small independent brands are certainly enjoying a moment thanks to the likes of Studio Underd0g, Lorier, and Baltic, among others, and Meraud carves their own path with the Antigua thanks to the well considered design (a trait shared by the others cited above), and the somewhat unconventional choice of movement. I wouldn’t go so far as to call the Antigua an anomaly, but it manages a fine balance between safe and comfortable, and quirky and strange, landing somewhere in the middle. It’s the best kind of follow up to a promising start, and I only wish it had come a little sooner, as this is a brand I’d like to see more from. $1917 Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement Landeron 248 Dial Soft Sand, Miho Black Lume Supe...
Worn & Wound
The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W; contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs. This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...
SJX Watches
Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...
Worn & Wound
Todd Snyder and Timex have this long standing partnership that dates back to 2016 with the release of the MOD watch. Like many of their collaborative pieces, the designs lean strongly on military field watches, vintage cues, and design-forward decisions that are clearly being made by Mr. Todd Snyder himself. The latest collaboration from the two established American brands marks the first time they step into chronograph territory. The new release is dubbed the MK-1 Sky King and comes in two different variations – a coated steel case with a matching black dial and a traditional steel case with what Todd Snyder x Timex is calling a ‘blaze orange’ dial. The MK-1 Sky King has all the hallmarks of a tried and true pilot’s watch. The main one being legibility, and that is highlighted by a bold upright triangle marker at twelve o’clock and accompanying circular hour plots of the same magnitude. Looking closely, you’ll notice that the hour plots get shifted in closer to the center of the dial, and do not reside on the same track as the triangular marker. This decision compresses the dial visually and also offers a bit of a distinctive dial trait. What does reside on the same track as the twelve marker is a fully indexed minute track that encircles the dial with corresponding Arabic numerals at intervals of five. The addition of hash marks between each minute marker gives the appearance of a solid line around the dial at glance and tightens up the dial aesthetically. Th...
Time+Tide
When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic. Here at CB, … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Stauer 1930 Dashtronic is a digital automatic watch you can have for just US$179 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A horological influencer in the Middle East, Hassan Akhras is behind the magazine Arab Watch Guide and Arab Watch Club (AWC), a community of collectors in the region. Like other regional clubs, the AWC has its share of limited editions made for its members, with the latest being the Piaget Polo Chronograph “Hope” Arab Watch Club Edition. Made to celebrate the seventh anniversary of the club, the edition is Mr Akhras’ first project with Piaget. Initial thoughts Special editions made for the Middle East usually intrigue me because they often have elements specific to the region, including the familiar Hindu-Arabic numerals on the dial. The Polo “Hope” takes a more subtle approach instead of the more overt styling often found on watches for the region. While the dial is eye-catching in its colour, the Hindu-Arabic numerals are found only on the chronograph registers and date wheel. Aside from the Hindu-Arabic numerals, the palette makes the Polo “Hope” an attractive watch. It’s distinctly different from the variants of the model to date. And even in its original form, the Polo S Chronograph has appealing dimensions at 42 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height. It’s a large, sporty watch but slim enough to slip underneath a cuff. Sadly, this timepiece is exclusive to its membership of the Arab Watch Club, and all 30 pieces have been sold out. First of many While Piaget has done limited editions for specific countries, the brand had not teamed up with a c...
Quill & Pad
The Bulgari by Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph features four retrograde displays and a jumping hour. Even more than its distinctive shape, the Octo Quadri-Retro’s strongest link to its Genta past is the crossfire of snapdragon displays on its sectored face. Tim Mosso dissects the history of this brand using the quirks of this uber-interesting timepiece.
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