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HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own Time+Tide
Bremont Hawking Dec 5, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own

I got to wear this icon-inspired Bremont Hawking in white gold for a brief moment in time, which is particularly apt given its association with Stephen Hawking. Here’s my ten pennies’ worth on the watch. Truth be told, I am desperate for this watch not to disappoint because Hawking is a hero of mine I’d … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 2, 2020

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions

A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens Quill & Pad
Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Nov 27, 2020

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens

The Montblanc 2020 High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition writing instruments use the treasures and traditions of Egypt as inspiration, and in a new twist each pen is encased in an octagonal “sarcophagus.” A special mechanism opens and closes the bejeweled receptacle, which is as functional as it is decorative and most unusual in the world of luxury pens.

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans Time+Tide
Nov 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans

More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” Time+Tide
Bulova makes Nov 24, 2020

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit”

Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is … ContinuedThe post Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Balancier S: The New (Atypical) Shape Of Ultra-High-End Sport Watches Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier S Nov 22, 2020

Greubel Forsey Balancier S: The New (Atypical) Shape Of Ultra-High-End Sport Watches

There are thousands of things to love about Greubel Forsey watches, but the thing that has always been the hook in the root of Joshua Munchow's brain is the variety of distinct shapes that atypically assemble to create very unique timepieces. With the release of 2020's Balancier S, yet another inspiring set of shapes entered his universe, which he share with us here.

5 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus that are Nauty By Nature Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Nov 20, 2020

5 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus that are Nauty By Nature

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711 might be your grail of grails, or simply the perfect taste of ’70s glamour. There is a reason so many love the porthole-inspired steel perfection, which – in the present day – is flat out unattainable even with cash to spend. So, that pampering AD appointment with $40-60,000 ready … ContinuedThe post 5 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus that are Nauty By Nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Nov 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll probably know that Audemars Piguet are well known for their skill in making tourbillons. This year alone, the Le Brassus-based brand has released a number of tourbillon watches, which we’ve covered here, here and here, but Audemars Piguet isn’t slowing down. Today the watchmaker announced the release … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Nov 15, 2020

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillon

Chopard recently unveiled the latest iteration of its Mille Miglia chronograph, a long-established model with conventional looks lightly inspired by classic cars. But it also unveiled the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillion, which is also automobile-inspired but instead by modern-day, hybrid hypercars. Drastically different and unabashedly contemporary, the Lab One is large, lightweight, and boasts a technically-impressive form movement with two notable features, a vertical hacking mechanism for the tourbillon as well as a back-winder crown. Initial thoughts While Chopard’s catalogue includes numerous classical, complicated watches that are well done – basically the entire L.U.C line – few of them possess strong design and rarely jump out at you. The Lab One is the opposite: unusual and original, and appealing – but polarising in terms of design. This not Chopard’s first foray in high-end, complicated sports watches, though it has not had much success in a segment dominated by brands like Richard Mille and Hublot. While its peers have refined their aesthetic into a recognisable style, Chopard is not well versed at such design. The watch is replete with car-inspired elements, but incorporated with varying degrees of coherence. It does, however, excel at watchmaking. Compared with the competition, the Lab One wins hands down in terms of technical achievement relative to price. Impressively kitted out with a hacking tourbillion, the Lab One is priced at $129,000,...

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense Time+Tide
Patek Philippe curiously not making … Nov 12, 2020

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense

As with any awards show, there can be a discrepancy between which watches fans think should have won and the watches that actually win. And it has to be said that the divide between popular and GPHG opinion is something of a canyon these days, with mega-brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe curiously not making … ContinuedThe post “I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 11, 2020

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph

Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing Quill & Pad
Nov 10, 2020

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing

Watches entered into the Challenge category are offered for a retail price under 4,000 Swiss francs. This is perhaps the most popular category as it's for watches that more people can afford, and the competition is tough. Which explains why our panel of five has three different picks for the winner.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie

Saving the best for last, Patek Philippe has just announced the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie. Powered by a movement derived from that in the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G uber-complication, the new Grande Sonnerie is impressively complicated – which is why Patek Philippe set up a dedicated workshop for its assembly – yet surprisingly thin. Unlike the Grandmaster Chime that was a multi-complication, the ref. 6301P is a focused mechanical masterpiece: a grande and petite sonnerie, striking the time en passant, or as it passes. But it is also a carillon, striking on three pairs of hammers and gongs, instead of the usual two. All its mechanical accomplishment is dressed in classical style, with an aesthetic reminiscent of the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – a black enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a recessed case band. Initial thoughts With a movement derived from the Calibre 300 found in the Grandmaster Chime, the Grande Sonnerie is almost as large, a necessity due to the size of the movement. At 44.8 mm in diameter, the Grande Sonnerie is a large watch, but it is surprisingly thin at just 12 mm high, which is perhaps unsurprising given Patek Philippe’s traditional inclination towards thin watches. Unlike the brand’s other extra-large grand complications, like the Grandmaster Chime or Sky Moon Tourbillon, the Grande Sonnerie has a more restrained, traditional design. Though imposing, it looks reasonably elegant due to the pared-back styling and subtle ...

Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style… Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style…

Last week, Lashana Lynch confirmed in Harper’s Bazaar that she would inherit the 007 mantle in No Time to Die, which is the 25th Bond film, due to hit cinemas in April 2021. During her interview she touched on a variety of points, including the perception of her casting and how she wanted to tackle … ContinuedThe post Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner Quill & Pad
Nov 5, 2020

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and more. Which make comparisons between the different crafts extremely difficult. But our five panelists accept the challenge and come up with three predicted winners.

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price) Deployant
Ressence Type 5X – Warm Oct 29, 2020

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

Up Close: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” Oct 29, 2020

Up Close: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines has a grand history in wristwatch chronographs, some of which has been translated into appealing modern remakes. Granted the remakes don’t have legendary movements like the 13ZN of old, but they are affordable and well designed. There have been many remakes – Longines is adept at churning them out – but the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” is perhaps the best in recent memory. Based on a 1940s watch in Longines museum, the Tuxedo chronograph gets it right, both in the broad strokes but also the finer details. Initial thoughts In many ways the Tuxedo chronograph is more of the same from Longines, another vintage remake that’s well done. That would make it competent but nothing outstanding. But the Tuxedo chronograph is arguably different, because it is more adept than earlier remakes in its details. At arm’s length the watch looks like a typical replica, a watch that has vintage design but the size and shine of a modern watch. It is obviously a modern watch, but the attention to detail in its design and construction make it obvious that the designers understand vintage watches. This, like any other remake, is not about originality or creativity. It succeeds or fails on how well the vintage design has been reproduced, while allowing for modern materials and features. By that measure the Tuxedo chronograph aces the test. The case, for instance, has two finishes – a polished middle and a brushed bezel – while the case middle is extremely narrow...

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Oct 29, 2020

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount

Having recently ditched its takeover of Tiffany & Co. – citing looming US tariffs on French goods – LVMH has now done what many industry insiders long expected – clinching the deal at a lower price. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Bulgari will pay US$131.50 a share for the American jeweller, instead of the US$135 originally agreed. The discount is more modest than expected, slightly over 2%, which translates into savings of about US$400m, against a total deal value of about US$15.8 billion. The deal is expected to close in early 2021. Regardless of the price, Tiffany is an important addition to LVMH’s expansive stable of luxury brands. Although LVMH is the world’s largest biggest group by a large margin – its 2019 sales were €53.7 billion – it has a comparatively small presence in “hard” luxury, namely watches and jewellery. That segment now makes up less than 10% of its sales, but Tiffany will bulk it up significantly. In fact, the deal’s completion will mean that LVMH owns two of the three largest makers of branded jewellery – Tiffany and Bulgari.  

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF41J Oct 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.