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Urwerk watches lend themselves to my work very well. The movements and time display system is 3 dimensionsl, with beautiful angles and curves. And they are quite a work of art. This issue, I focus on one of their newer watches. The Urwerk U-110 nwo with a new gold bezel…known as the Golden Shield. ComfortableRead More
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The Booths at the SIHH get more and more amazing each year. This year is no different. As with last year, I took some time to go around to photograph the booths. Here is a selection I omit the largest display – the one by Cartier, because it is spread across several booths…in fact itRead More
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SIHH 2012: Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet celebrates the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak with beautiful re-issues. Has it been 40 years since Gerald Genta had this brilliant idea of putting a octagonal bezel in a stylized tonneau case? Indeed it has been, and yet, the Royal Oak looks as fresh today as it didRead More
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Following up on last Friday’s remarks using DeBethune’s remarkable DB25T as an example, today’s post I use the same combination on the Voutilainen Vingt8 (28). Also photographed in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Vingt-8 before. As I described earlier, this is a magnificent watch. As mentioned inRead More
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Following up on my walkabout impressions of the quite remarkable Leica S2, here are some photographs I made in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Db25T before, it is a remarkable watch. I particularly love the jumping seconds hand, and the beautiful Caliber 2109 with the magnificent bridgeRead More
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Store Visit: Malmaison by The Hour Glass: Emporium Extronaire The Malmaison by The Hour Glass is not quite new…in fact, it opened its doors just after SIH 2011…almost a year ago. But the store continues to amaze me. This is a veritable temple of luxury, conceived and created by Hour Glass’s intrepid Executive Director MichaelRead More
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Independent Watchmaking Salon in Hong Kong March of the Independents It is no secret that I am an ardent admirer of independent watchmakers. I was one of the first to invest in Philippe Dufour, by purchasing and writing about him. As early as 1999, I wrote an early article which appeared in The Business TimesRead More
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December 20, 0900 CET Lange announces the replacement for the 11 year old Datograph with a new and improved Datograph. I attended the launch event in Dresden, and managed to spend a full morning with the watch, photographing, examining, pondering. Here are the exclusive live photographs and my personal impressions. Reinventing classics is an activityRead More
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I photographed the Moser Perpetual 1 some time ago…the photographs appear here. As a followup, this is a detailed look at the movement, showing the salient features of the quite excellent finish: Zooming in on the escapement: The entire esacapement, can be unscrewed at the ends of the bridge, and removed. Moser provides service centersRead More
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The latest iteration of The Freak…with Rolf’s signature on the plate attached to the dial at 6. The plate releases the lock on the bezel, which also serves as device to set the time. The watch is amazing in simplicity…no crown…set the hands by turning the bezel. Wind the watch by turning the rear bezel.Read More
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Jaeger LeCoultre has been pushing the envelope of high horology for some time. With the Gyrotourbillon announced in 2004. The original series is produced in a platinum case, and I had the opportunity to photograph and view the final run of 30 pieces in rose gold. The Gyrotourbillon has grown more beautiful in its newRead More
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Year after year, the Salon International de Haut Horologie (SIHH) showcases the best of watches in the industry in the huge, invitation only show in Geneva. This is my 10th year attending SIHH. And with each year, the booths become more and more amazing. As the Founder of the Lange Owner’s Group, I naturally useRead More
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Urwerk is always amazing. The watches they make are not strictly for telling the time, but avant garde sculptures which mesmerises because of the way it reminds one of science fiction creations. One can only imagine the designers at Urwerk: the talented Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner have spent (or mis-spent) their youth marvelling atRead More
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The Philippe Dufour Duality...ultimate in discreteness, and totally unassuming in character, but what a gorgeous, and ultra-complicated movement within.
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The MB&F;’s Horological Machine No 3…nicknamed The Frog is a special adaptation of the HM3…with a bit stonger visual design of the dial, providing the impact like they are buldging…like a frog’s eyes. The rotor carries the battleax logo.
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Deployant
The Lange Annual Calendar…the first Lange watch to bear this complication is shown below: The annual calendar offers a lower cost alternative to the perpetual calendar…and also a cleaner, easier to read dial layout. Very handsome watch, clean dial layout, very legible. Movement again in characteristic Lange finish. The annual calendar movement is under theRead More
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The Japanese have a passion, when they often do, and will be prepared to be totally obsessed and fully committed to the task. Such is the wonderful story behind the extreme high end Credor series by Seiko. As many of us know, Seiko makes many low end watches…chances are, most of us have owned one,Read More
Worn & Wound
Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X. It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine. For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...
Monochrome
This morning, we all had a very pleasant message when we woke up… all 33 pieces of our fourth collaboration with Habring² were gone. Maybe it didn’t sell as fast as our first MdS, when all 33 pieces sold out in just 17 minutes, but still, we’re super happy and grateful that all 33 pieces […]
Monochrome
When Bernhard Lederer debuts his Central Impulse Chronometer in 2020, it didn’t go unnoticed. Here we had an esteemed independent watchmaker launching a watch with a double escapement inspired by George Daniels’ Independent Double Wheel Escapement pocket watch. Not only did Lederer use it as inspiration, but he also aimed to smooth out its driving force […]
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Hodinkee
Crash! Boom! Bang! A hand-painted mother-of-pearl comic book watch by Hermès. No, really, we didn't just make this up.
Hodinkee
It takes guts to release just one watch at Watches & Wonders, but Lange didn't disappoint.
Hodinkee
We didn't think this stainless steel Patek could be any more of a grail. Now it's even grail-ier.
Hodinkee
We didn't see these watches coming, but we're glad they're here.
Hodinkee
Technically, 2020 had as many days as any other year. But it sure didn't feel that way.
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