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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches Time+Tide
Feb 25, 2021

FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches

It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it … ContinuedThe post FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? Time+Tide
Oris ing Feb 25, 2021

Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category?

The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category.  But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what … ContinuedThe post Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Ultimate Travel-Time Tourbillon SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Ultimate Travel-Time Tourbillon

An independent watchmaker exemplified by chronometric complications and movement decoration, Greubel Forsey has created its own distinctive style that mixes classical finishing and ideas with contemporary design, giving it a unique position in the landscape. The brand is best known for its elaborate tourbillons, but it also offers practical, everyday complications, albeit combined with tourbillons. Now, for the 10th anniversary of its first GMT model, Greubel Forsey has unleashed the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon in titanium. Likely the most complex GMT watch on the market, it’s regulated by twin double-axis tourbillons, while conveniently telling the time in two time zones and also around the world with a rotating globe. Originally launched in white gold, it’s now in titanium, match with a restrained blue-and-grey palette. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey’s GMT complication can be found in a surprisingly broad range of watches, from old-school complications with traditional aesthetics to a modern sports watch, but it is always paired with a tourbillon. A second time zone function is elementary next to a tourbillon, but by combining the two, Greubel Forsey raises the bar for a dual-time watch – in both technical accomplishment and price. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is perhaps the most technically impressive and meticulously finished travel-time watch – and the new titanium-and-blue version looks magnificent. In fact, I am convinced that the latest version of the G...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch

Having first unveiled one set with diamonds and blue sapphires last year – that no doubt sold out briskly – Grand Seiko has just announced the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch 140th Anniversary (ref. SBGD207). This is similar to last year’s model – a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day with the dial, flange, and crown set with diamonds and garnets – combining the refined, artisanal movement finishing of the Micro Artist Studio with lavish gem-setting. Initial thoughts Last year’s sapphire-set 8 Day watch was impressive and truly special, being the first highly-jewelled, mechanical men’s watch from Seiko (or Grand Seiko) in two or three decades. The new SBGD207 in green is equally impressive, though it does reduce the unique nature of the original. Being a variant of the Spring Drive 8 Day, the SBGD207 will wear much like the standard model, which is extremely hefty and large for a Grand Seiko, and slightly top heavy on the wrist. The mass of the watch probably works better with the lavish gemstone setting, making the sparkle as over the top as the size. And because the SBGD207 has a green mother of pearl dial, it probably has more flash than last year’s model that had a grained, silvery dial finish. And the movement will be equally refined, having all the hand-finished intricacy of the 9R01 in the standard model. Though finely decorated, the movement lacks visual detail, because almost all of it is hidden under a single, massive barrel b...

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705 SJX Watches
IWC Revives Feb 25, 2021

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705

Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Feb 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”

Heritage is the key buzzword when it comes to watches right now. With many consumers enamored with timepieces of the past, it’s a no-brainer for manufacturers to revive coveted designs and give buyers a chance to acquire new watches inspired by the references of yesteryear. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes Feb 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global

One of the biggest complaints about the Grand Seiko ‘Four Seasons’ collection had nothing to do with the watches themselves, but the fact that they were only available to the US market. Their nature-inspired dials were lauded for their colour and texture, making the international market envious of what was available in the States. Today … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Feb 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum

The Grand Seiko brand and the Seiko Corporation have a lot to celebrate this year. Across Seiko brands, the collections have seen growth all around the globe with more and more people gaining respect and admiration for the Japanese manufacturer, even in the most inclement of market conditions. Last evening, at the global Seiko summit, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Feb 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel

The 140th Anniversary celebrations for Seiko are continuing, hot on the heels of the news that – and this is remarkable – both brands actually experienced growth in key markets in 2020. This was revealed last night in a global summit, along with several new models, including this one. A key reason for the upward … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s decision Feb 24, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke

Many of us, myself included, have the 5711 steel Nautilus cemented onto our watch grail wish-list. Now, the infamous eight year waiting-list you’d have to endure after ordering one is no more. Patek Philippe’s top selling reference is being discontinued, and many a collector on an exclusive AD list will return to square one, with … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega introduces new quick change straps with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph Time+Tide
Omega introduces new quick change Feb 24, 2021

Omega introduces new quick change straps with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph

Omega is famous for being the official timekeeper of the Olympics and many other sporting events around the world. Their latest release, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph, is a fitting tribute to the 36th America’s Cup. To celebrate this intense sailing event, Omega decided to do more than dress up an existing … ContinuedThe post Omega introduces new quick change straps with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Jeff Stein from world Heuer authority onthedash.com goes in-depth on the new TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Feb 23, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Jeff Stein from world Heuer authority onthedash.com goes in-depth on the new TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition

Editor’s note: Yesterday, Jeff Stein, the ever-polite world authority on Heuer watches reached out to us to ask if he could use some of our photos in a story he just published, about the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition. In the email chain that followed, we discussed the edition and we both … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Jeff Stein from world Heuer authority onthedash.com goes in-depth on the new TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato 45’ HODINKEE Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Ref 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph Feb 21, 2021

Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Given GaryG's musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, he thinks it appropriate to dedicate this “Behind the Lens” entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5950A. What’s so special about this watch? Well, first of all it’s a split-seconds chronograph. What else?

All 4 New Rolex 2020 Collection Updates Plus One Watch You Might Have Missed Quill & Pad
Rolex 2020 Collection Updates Plus Feb 20, 2021

All 4 New Rolex 2020 Collection Updates Plus One Watch You Might Have Missed

While 2019 brought subtle improvements for Rolex’s mainstay watch lines, a rocky 2020 brought uncertainty – first we weren’t sure Rolex would release anything at all given the pandemic, which was followed by widely talked about updates for four of the crown’s pillar collections. The new 2020 models saw subtle changes for improvement and perfection rather than anything revolutionary. And lots more color!

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

RGM Watch Co. Unveils the Custom Model 25 “Kauai” SJX Watches
Breguet inspired aesthetic Feb 18, 2021

RGM Watch Co. Unveils the Custom Model 25 “Kauai”

A pioneering American independent watchmaker established in 1992, RGM Watch Co. long ago developed an in-house expertise in traditional guilloche, resulting in a Breguet-inspired aesthetic that defined the brand in its early years. But RGM – named after founder Roland G. Murphy – has since diversified its offerings to include custom and bespoke watches. The latest example of a custom commission is Model 25 “Kauai”, a wristwatch with a dial bearing the map of the eponymous Hawaiian island. Initial thoughts RGM is especially good at dial making, and the Kauai is a good example of what the brand can do. While the Hawaiian island motif is personal to the client who ordered the watch, the quality of the execution is evidently high. The wave guilloche on the dial is engraved the old-fashioned way, with a hand-operated straight-line engine, while both plaques on the dial are solid gold that were cut by hand on a jig borer. And almost all of the dial is produced in house, save for the laser engraving of the map and the blue galvanic coating. The value of the watch is almost entirely in the one-off, hand-made dial – and it offers strong value in itself. The Kauai cost US$13,900, and similar custom watches are priced about the same – alternatives include enamel or marquetry dials – making them a good value proposition, especially since comparable watches from establishment Swiss brands would cost substantially more. Made in Pennsylvania Located in Mount Joy, a town in...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow Feb 17, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track

We can all get caught up in the latest news about Nautilus or the next unobtainable Rolex. But for the majority of watch buyers, the most important timepieces are those that are accessibly priced and offer a ton of value.  One brand that constantly delivers in this regard is Longines, a manufacture of longstanding heritage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph SJX Watches
Sinn R500 Chronograph Announced just Feb 17, 2021

Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph

Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...

HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel Feb 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial?

The market for stainless-steel watches with blue dials is as hot as ever. And it makes sense for brands to produce watches that meet this demand. But how many more do we really need? The Grand Seiko SBGR321 was first announced towards the end of last year as a part of their 60th anniversary releases, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Grand Seiko SBGR321 just another stainless-steel watch with a blue dial? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGR053 – Feb 16, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago?

Now I wholeheartedly confess to being a die-hard Seiko fan with two of the dearest favourites in my watch box being my inky black delight – Grand Seiko SBGR053 – and my limited edition Baby Marinemaster. The latter one is pertinent to this article as one of the many “inspired by” 62MAS heritage reissues from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Lightens the Octo Finissimo Chronograph with a Strap SJX Watches
Bulgari Lightens Feb 16, 2021

Bulgari Lightens the Octo Finissimo Chronograph with a Strap

Bulgari’s race to the flattest started in 2014, when it started unveiling one complication after another of record-setting slimness, culminating with the thinnest-ever automatic chronograph two years ago. While the original version is monochromatic and all titanium, the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium is a twist on the theme. It’s fitted to an integrated rubber  strap, in a first for the model that leaves it even more featherweight. Initial thoughts Admittedly – at least from a technical standpoint – the new Octo chronograph isn’t as exciting as it was when the model was first launched. This is just a facelift, but it’s a good one. Though similar to earlier versions of the Octo chronograph, the new model stands out for its palette, which arguably gives it more wrist presence. The original version has an integrated metal bracelet that flowed well in terms of visual continuity. But the strap is compelling for the opposite reason: it makes the extra-thin case stand out, increasing the visual contrast while making the watch look a bit fancier. The elimination of the bracelet will surely change its tangible feel on the wrist substantially. Because of the lightweight materials – a titanium case and strap in rubber – the watch will feel almost non-existent on wrist, taking the ultra-thin nature of the Octo one step forward. And like the time-only version of the Octo, the Chronograph is fairly priced in most iterations. This costs US$17,200, making i...