Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Masterpiece SBGZ011 Review: Fluid Artistry And Feather-Thin Engineering
The "Mystic Waterfall" SBGZ011 combines a hand-engraved platinum case with one of the thinnest Spring Drive movements to date. More
Results for White Gold vs Platinum
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Teddy Baldassarre
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-05 GMT Green Steel
Following the black, white and sky blue editions, Bell & Ross expands its urban-inspired BR-05 collection with the new BR-05 GMT Green Steel. The latest model introduces a new sage green colourway while retaining the same architecture, dimensions and movement as the existing GMT, with a focus on a fresh aesthetic. Like every BR-05, the […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa
Following TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with Japanese racing squad Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department in 2023, the trio has returned for a second lap with the limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, bringing the red-and-white livery of the racing legend to the popular “glassbox” format for the first time. Initial thoughts Unlike many other legacy Swiss watch brands, TAG Heuer has demonstrated an ability to reach beyond traditional design influences to infuse its watches with a diverse range of elements from contemporary fashion. Last year’s Fujiwara streetwear collab is a prime example. With racing being so strongly linked to TAG Heuer’s history and brand identity, the collaboration with Ikuzawa is conceptually very fitting and extends the brand’s reach beyond the starting grid, deeper into motorsport culture. The Carrera Ikuzawa gets the mid-sized 39 mm ‘glassbox’ case, which is just under 14 mm thick. The case takes its name from its dramatically domed crystal, which encompasses the raised dial flange underneath, in place of a traditional bezel. Despite numerous vintage design cues, the Carrera Ikuzawa doesn’t look or feel like a vintage watch or vintage reissue. The clous de Paris dial texture and the depth of the ‘glassbox’ construction help it maintain its contemporary look. A Chrono-first dial With so much in common with the standard Carrera, much of the difference is down to the dial, which blends design cues from...
Deployant
The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck: now back in a new Blast case
Ulysse Nardin reimagined their Blast Moonstruc in a new black DLC titanium and rose gold. The movement remains unchanged from the 2009 release.
Fratello
How A Smiths Dash Clock Helped A Pioneering Pilot Traverse The World
In the dim light at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT) in Auckland and among the glamorous early motor cars and remarkable early aircraft, there is a small and humble Smiths dash clock. Its black dial and white numerals emphasize legibility. The dash clock was a compact, precise instrument born of the early 20th […] Visit How A Smiths Dash Clock Helped A Pioneering Pilot Traverse The World to read the full article.
WatchRider
Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review
In my opinion, panda watches are probably the most beautiful and classic watch designs ever made, which explains why I own around ten of them. In this article, we are looking at two models from Casio that I own: the Edifice EFB-730D-7AV on a stainless steel bracelet, that has a clean silver dial with black subdials, and the Edifice EFB-730L-7AV on a brown leather strap, but with a more vintage off-white dial and orange accents. And to make this even more interesting I will compare them with my Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda M79360N-0002. In the following sections, I will cover what I like, what I do not like, or rather what I would like to see in future versions, whether these watches feel premium, and two questions you probably have in mind: why I own both and whether I am going to sell them. Panda Design, Case Size and Comfort The panda dial is clearly the main attraction, but what makes these Casio models stand out from the many affordable panda chronographs is the shape of the case. Instead of using the familiar round design seen on watches such as the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, the EFB-730 has a tonneau shape that immediately reminded me of the legendary Zenith El Primero A384. Introduced in 1969, the A384 combined a distinctive tonneau-shaped case (often referred to as a barrel shape) with a white dial, three black chronograph counters and a date window positioned between four and five o’clock. The modern A384 Revival faithfully recreates that design with a 37 mm tonnea...
WatchRider
Mido Multifort 8 One Crown Goes Fully Black in PVD
Mido has added a full-black version to the Multifort 8 One Crown range for summer 2026. Reference M055.507.37.051.00 takes the angular case and simple three-hand layout of the existing model and gives almost every exterior part a black finish. The result is much darker than the steel versions, but the polished hands, raised hour markers and white date display keep it easy to read. This is not just a new dial colour. Mido has applied black PVD to the 316L stainless-steel case, bezel, crown and pin buckle, then paired the watch with a fitted black rubber strap. It changes the character of the Multifort 8 One Crown without changing the practical dimensions or the Caliber 80 automatic movement that made the original model interesting. The black PVD coating still allows the brushed and polished case surfaces to stand apart. From two crowns to one The Multifort name dates back to 1934, when Mido used it for a watch designed around automatic winding, water resistance, resistance to magnetism and protection against shocks. The current Multifort 8 family carries that practical idea into a much more modern shape. The first Multifort 8 design used two crowns, including one to operate an internal rotating bezel. The One Crown removes that extra control and the internal timing scale. That gives the dial more room, reduces visual clutter and makes the case slimmer. It also turns the watch into a straightforward hours-minutes-seconds model with a date window, which will make more sense f...
WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Returns as a 39mm Glassbox Limited Edition
TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department have reunited for a second watch, but this is much more than a new colour for the 2023 collaboration. Launched on 30 July 2026, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa uses the 39mm Carrera Glassbox case and takes its dial design from the Roadmaster stopwatches used in Japanese motorsport during the 1970s and 1980s. The new reference CBS221M.EB0435 is limited to 150 individually numbered pieces worldwide. Its white-and-red design is easy to recognise, but the smaller case, textured dial, revised movement and unusual presentation set make this a distinctly different watch from its predecessor. All images are courtesy of TAG Heuer. The new 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa. Image: TAG Heuer. A second chapter, not a reissue Team Ikuzawa was founded by Tetsu Ikuzawa, one of the most important Japanese racing drivers of his generation. His career included the Japanese Grand Prix, Formula 3, Formula 2, Le Mans and work as a Porsche factory driver. The team became closely linked with a clean red-and-white identity that remains central to the brand today. His daughter, Mai Ikuzawa, has carried that history into a wider creative business covering cars, fashion, photography and design. George Bamford and Bamford Watch Department complete the collaboration, helping translate the graphics of old racing equipment into a modern Carrera. Tetsu Ikuzawa with cars and photographs from his racing career. Image:...
Fratello
Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead
If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.
Fratello
CIGA Design’s Warmer Take On Its Most Industrial Line - The Hunter Vintage
The Chinese watch brand CIGA Design expands its most industrial line, the Hunter, with warmer tones. New Sand Gold, Rose Gold, and Brown Gold configurations allow the new Hunter Vintage to soften and bring warmth to the collection’s openworked design. The three colorways draw on visuals recalling the grand clock faces of the machine age, […] Visit CIGA Design’s Warmer Take On Its Most Industrial Line — The Hunter Vintage to read the full article.
WatchRider
Meet the New Seiko 5 Sports Field GMTs: The HDB001K1 and HDB002K1
The Seiko 5 Sports line has long been the gold standard for enthusiasts seeking a perfect blend of reliability, style and accessibility. Now, Seiko is elevating that reputation further with the release of the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1. Bringing the coveted GMT complication to the compact, rugged Field series for the first time, these timepieces are poised to become the ultimate daily-wear companions for travelers and adventurers alike. A Design Built for the Real World Both the HDB001K1 and HDB002K1 honor the classic “trench watch” aesthetic that defined mid 20th century field timepieces. With a versatile 39.4mm case diameter, these watches offer a refined, manageable footprint that sits comfortably on almost any wrist. The build is undeniably robust. Encased in high-quality stainless steel and featuring 100m water resistance, these watches are designed to handle everything from rainy commutes to light outdoor excursions. The aesthetic is tied together by a sophisticated five row stainless steel bracelet, which provides a premium feel that pairs just as well with a casual weekend outfit as it does with office attire. At the heart of both models is the Seiko Caliber 4R34, a reliable automatic movement that quickly became a fan favorite. A Tale of Two Dials Seiko is offering this rugged traveler in two highly textured, military-inspired colorways: The HDB001K1 “Khaki Drill” (Green) For those who want their watch to look like it belongs in an overgrown forest. I...
WristBuzz
The AD doorway: why walking into a Rolex boutique still feels like a test, and whether it has to
You slow down outside the door. you check your outfit. you wonder if you belong. then you either walk in and feel judged, or you walk on and feel silly. why does it still feel like this in 2026, and what could the industry actually do about it?
Hodinkee
A Universal Genève Unisonic Sub, A Longines Comet, A Vintage Seamaster And The Most Beautiful Chronograph Ever Made
Happy Friday, everyone, and I hope you're all staying busy during summer's dog days, perhaps seeing The Odyssey or reading about Milsubs (please note I'm including that not because I have any dog in that fight, just found it interesting). Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Hermès Caleche sold, the Angelus chronograph passed, the Rolex GMT Master II SARU remains available, as does the Bulova White Princ. The Goldberger collection auctions tomorrow. Strays Photo courtesy Weiss Auctions. If you're into impossible projects, here's a decent-looking Heuer 3647T that's missing its outer seconds track. If you know your Carreras, you know that track's actually a tension ring, and you likely also know it's gonna be quite a search indeed to find another, but here at BAL, we scoff at impossible projects. If you'd prefer to chase your own vintage Tudor Ranger rather than buy one of the ones highlighted two weeks back, have at it. For the completist who'd like every last horological oddity, I present this Pigeon Timer. I'm including this Movado M90 not because it's without flaw, but because it's already been bid up to $3750 at the time of writing, which seems high for what's likely mostly a parts watch (that dial can't be original, right?). Please, experts, weigh in in the comments. Finally, here's a wonderful Omega Ranchero. A few weeks back I highlighted an Omega Railmaster (there's another of those up this week, too). I'm highlighting each of them simply because they're so often...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black
In 2024, German brand Hanhart went beyond its traditional pilot’s watches with the Aquasphere, a dive watch that combined robust specifications with the brand’s distinctive design. The new Aquasphere Matte Black, fundamentally unchanged, brings a darker, more restrained execution that emphasises functionality over flair. It swaps the original blue colourway with a black and white […]
WatchRider
Ranking my CARTIER tank alternatives
Few watch designs in history carry the timeless, effortless elegance of the Cartier Tank. Ever since Louis Cartier introduced the rectangular silhouette in 1917, it has been the gold standard for dress watches. But you don’t need to drop thousands of dollars to get that iconic Art Deco aesthetic on your wrist. There is a specific kind of magic in the rectangular watch silhouette. It is an aesthetic that feels timeless, refined, and effortlessly chic, a design language that speaks of old-world elegance without being loud. While the legendary Cartier Tank remains the gold standard for many, I have found that my own journey into watch collecting has been defined by finding that same “Tank” spirit in pieces that tell their own stories. Over the years, I have carefully curated a collection of rectangular timepieces that have become constant companions in my daily rotation. They aren’t just accessories, they are long-term partners that have seen me through countless days. Here is how I rank my personal collection of “Tank” alternatives. The Undisputed Champion: Seiko V115-0BE0 (SUP250) When searching for the ultimate homage to the Tank style minus the steep price tag, the Seiko V115-0BE0 (SUP250) easily emerges as the winner. Having spent years putting this watch through its paces, its status as my top pick is unquestionable. Its exceptional craftsmanship, refined finishing, and brilliant light play make it the ultimate spiritual heir to that luxury holy grail w...
Monochrome
Hands-on - All the new Dials for the Rolex Datejust in 2026, and There’s Much More than the Green Ombré
For 2026, Rolex had a pretty big year at Watches and Wonders Geneva. There was, of course, the much-debated high-end Rolesium and enamel Daytona, the revamped Yacht-Master II, or a new gold alloy named Jubilee gold for the Day-Date. Then, the Crown publicly showed the special edition steel and gold Oyster Perpetual 100th Anniversary. You thought […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT HBC001 and HBC002
Over the past year, Seiko has refined its Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with several editions, including the 60th Anniversary SPB509 and the SPB534 Seashadow. Following the white-dialled SPB519, the latest additions, the non-limited references HBC001 and HBC002 in classic black or green colourways, offer the familiar design of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with […]
Worn & Wound
Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club
We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card. The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...
Deployant
New MoonSwatch to celebrate Apollo 11 landing. Launch date: July 12, 2026
In time to celebrate the Apollo 11 Moon landing of July 12, 1969, Swatch x Omega releases a limited edition MoonSwatch featuring Moonshine Gold.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Doxa T.Graph Dive Watch Just Came Back, and It Already Has a Limited Edition
Topper and Doxa unveil the SUB T.Graph II 'Great White,' a 100-piece limited edition with a fully lumed no-date dial, navy lacquer accents, and a shark caseback.
Time+Tide
New releases from Nomos, Maurice de Mauriac, Krayon and more
With Wimbledon having concluded just last week, the tennis inspiration is still strong in our minds. Maurice de Mauriac expands its Rallymaster collection with a new colourway celebrating Swiss tennis. NOMOS introduces two models whose crisp, clean dials would perfectly echo the tournament’s all-white dress code. At the same time, Krayon offers an escape from … Continued
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...
Teddy Baldassarre
Swatch x Omega Launch Mission To The Moon 1969 MoonSwatch
The latest Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 goes high end with 11g of gold and an application process.
SJX Watches
Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969
In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm Review: The Best Octo Yet?
Going hands-on with the latest, scaled-down Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm in titanium and yellow gold.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red
Since its streamlined redesign in 2022, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has become the independent watchmaking brand‘s signature expression of one of the rarest mechanical phenomena in watchmaking. Without altering the movement, later editions have offered variations in colour and materials used, from the Manufacture Green and Ice Blue models to the warm rose gold […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class
Amongst Cartier’s crowd favourites launched this year is a new take on its elegant aviator’s watch, now upgraded with a mesh-link bracelet. The standout is the Santos-Dumont LM Obsidian that matches the yellow gold case and bracelet with a dial that is actually volcanic glass. This sticks to the classic Santos-Dumont template with a slim case containing an even slimmer Piaget movement, but the dial gives this a distinctly different feel from the conventional versions of the model. And unusually given the dial material, this is regular production. Initial thoughts Even though the original 1904 Santos was conceived as a professional’s “tool” watch of sorts, the modern-day Santos-Dumont is undoubtedly a dress watch, but one with a little flair. The form case and screws on the bezel set it apart from the average dress watch that is usually plain. This takes the design to another level with the bracelet and obsidian dial. The bracelet is a little showy since it is entirely yellow gold, but the links are fine enough that it still feels elegant. Similarly, the dial is high contrast but arguably passes as a dress watch. The case is compact and slim, so this still passes as a dress watch, one that is both ostentatious and elegant. If anything, I would have wished it was one size larger. This, along with the other variants of the Santos-Dumont on a bracelet, is in the “LM”, or “large model”, format. At under 32 mm in diameter, the case size is reminiscent of a vint...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Affordable Seiko Rotocall Reissue Wasn’t a One-Off After All
The Seiko Rotocall returns in silver and gold with a reverse LCD, same 37mm case, and reported $550 pricing. Here's why only one version works.
WristBuzz
4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You
Every serial-obsessed Rolex conversation starts here: the reference number tells you the era, and the era tells you the spec. Acrylic vs sapphire, aluminium vs Cerachrom, tritium vs Chromalight, and why the 5-digit refs are the sweet spot most collectors quietly agree on.
Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Two Colorful New Options to the Defy Extreme Collection
It’s a complaint heard often among the aesthetically-inclined: modern design just isn’t colorful enough. Cars come in white, black, or silver, houses are painted white with black sills, and our phones are just sleek black rectangles. But that tendency towards “millenial gray” (sorry millennials, it’s not really your fault) hasn’t dug its claws into horology yet. In fact, it seems to be quite the opposite, with bold new colorways and designs capturing headlines post-press events. Zenith isn’t new to the bright and vibrant trend in watches, but their latest DEFY Extreme Ultraviolet and Lapis Lazuli II certainly bring the hueful hammer home. At their core, the two new DEFY pieces are sisters, so to speak: both are housed in an angular 45mm case in microblasted titanium, and a carbon and titanium combination respectively. The aggressive design of said case sets the stage for Zenith’s “more is more” mentality with the DEFY models, which come in at a chunky (but lightweight) 15.4mm in thickness and 51mm lug-to-lug. These are not wallflower watches, and every point of the design proves that. The Extreme Ultraviolet does a lot of work with its name, which is a more than adequate descriptor for the watch itself. The dial is a visual cornucopia, with a violet-tinted sapphire crystal that showcases the matching violet subdials and layered geometric construction. The Zenith name and star logo at 12 o’clock is the only visual breather on the dial, with the movem...