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In-Depth: Does Spring Drive Have An Escapement?
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Hodinkee
Deployant
Details and commentary on the new Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920
In celebration to the 100th anniversary of the flying tourbillon by Glashütte master watchmaker Alfred Helwig, Glashütte Original presents the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 – Limited Edition.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date
Modelled on a 1960s diver’s alarm wristwatch, the Polaris was revived in 2018 as a full-fledged collection of watches ranging from time-only to chronograph. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre adds two more to the line up: the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. Looking very similar to each other, both share the same a gradient-blue dial but are distinguished in function; the Memovox is an alarm while the Date is a three-hand base model. Polaris Mariner Date (left), and Polaris Mariner Memovox Initial thoughts Probably because it manages to be sporty and slightly retro at the same time, the gradient (or fumè or smoked) blue dial is being used once again for a Polaris dive watch, not long after the similar-looking limited edition for the American market. And it’s worth noting that the three-tone blue dial takes inspiration from the Memovox “Snowdrop” of the 1970s. In short, the look isn’t novel, but it is a good one. And a few tweaks have been worked in to help it stand out, most obvious with the use of orange accents. The new Memovox on brand ambassador Benedict Cumberbatch The Polaris Mariner Memovox Although both watches have been updated in design and upgraded in functionality – water resistance is now 300 m instead of 200 m – they are beset by a sharp increase in price. For instance, the new Mariner Memovox alarm watch costs about 40% more than the equivalent limited edition of 2018. And the Mariner Date costs a bit over US$11,000, while the standar...
Deployant
New Casio G-SHOCK GRAVITYMASTER – watches for Aviation Professionals
Casio introduces an all-new model to its popular G-SHOCK Master of G collection of men’s tactical watches. Designed with aviation professionals in mind, the GRAVITYMASTER, GR-B200 boasts three colorways with a unique Carbon Core Guard construction, carbon-infused resin bezels and resin bands in black (GR-B200-1A), orange (GR-B200-1A9) or blue (GR-B200-1A2) to provide elevated strength and durability in lightweight cases.
Time+Tide
Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four…
It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only … ContinuedThe post Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: British invasion! Time+Tide, already overrun by Brits, opens UK office
For a kid growing up in rural Victoria, Australia, England always seemed closer than the 16,000 or so kilometres away that it was in actuality. We had to sing God Save The Queen once a week. There was a picture of the Queen in our classrooms, and my dad had a serious penchant for English … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: British invasion! Time+Tide, already overrun by Brits, opens UK office appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary “62MAS” and “6105”
Seiko is marking the 55th anniversary of its first diver’s watch with remakes – yet again. The Prospex 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 modelled on the 62MAS 6217, while the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183 takes its cues from the 6105-8110. Initial thoughts Seiko is certainly not short on diver’s watches: it introduced the 55th anniversary trilogy in March, as well as a green-dial LX diver a few months later. This pair feels like two watches too many, especially since they aren’t that different from watches launched before. 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183J1 (left), and 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043J1 It’s a given that both possess all of the intrinsic appeal of Seiko dive watches – solid construction, excellent case finishing, and a robust movement. The two watches also enjoy strong historical legitimacy given Seiko’s immense track record in dive watches. But not only does there seem to be too many Seiko limited editions, both are not quite as afforably priced as Seiko dive watches once were. They are still reasonably priced, but no longer as compelling. 62MAS The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 is a remake of the first-ever Seiko dive watch, the 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Like earlier 62MAS remakes, this is larger than the original at 39.9 mm in diameter. Notably, it is slimmer than the remake from the diver’s watch trilogy launched earlier in the year, because this is powered by the 8L35 running at 4 H...
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In Memoriam: Günter Blümlein – the legend is remembered
October 1 marks the anniversary of the passing of the watch industry's greatest personalities. On this day in 2001, he passed away after a short illness, and the watchmaking world mourned the passing of a giant. Our Special Correspondent, Dr. Frank Muller remembers his mentor.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177
A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris
Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as making some of the finest dress watches on the market. But for those not familiar with the Le Sentier firm’s full collection, JLC also makes a very good stainless steel sports watch – the Polaris. And now the legacy watchmaker has decided to up the ante with the Polaris, broadening … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watches inspired by the 1920s - 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist
The roaring Twenties were a decade of epic proportions, lavish beyond measure. These were some of the best watches of the 1920s.The post Watches inspired by the 1920s - 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners
Having just unveiled the new-and-improved Pasha de Cartier in April, the Parisian jeweller has just announced an unusually generous suite of complimentary services for the owners of any Pasha watch – “regardless of the model and year of purchase” – anywhere in the world. An example of a Pasha from 1985, which would also be eligible for this offer Conceived to be part of the promotional activities for the new line, this impressive initiative covers two key amenities: servicing and personalisation. Any Pasha wristwatch can be taken to a Cartier boutique for a diagnosis and complimentary servicing. After servicing, the watch will also benefit from the standard post-servicing guarantee. Engraved initials on the recently-launched Pasha de Cartier At the same time, a Pasha wristwatch can be personalised with an engraving of the owner’s initials, either on the case back or on the side of the case under the chain that links the crown cap to the case. Cartier has not revealed how long these services will remain complimentary, but presumably not forever, so it would be prudent to make use of the offer sooner rather than later. For more, visit Cartier.com.
Deployant
Blancpain: 2 new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphes- Chronographe Flyback and Day Date with live pictures
Blancpain introduces two Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe watches - the Chronographe Flyback with a green dial, and a Day Date 1970s in a desert sand coloured dial. We had a hands-on session with the watches earlier today, and will publish our detailed findings soon. But in the meantime, here is the press release and some of our live photographs.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Day Date Desert Edition
A new sandy-colored dial honoring a historic dive in one of the world's hottest places.
Revolution
By Royal Appointment: The Tudor Royal
Tudor launches the Tudor Royal, a watch that’s deeply rooted in the Wilsdorf household and one which seems to be turning a lot of heads.
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater
English artist Alice Shirley has been creating illustrations for Hermès to reproduce on its scarves since 2012. Typically imaginative motifs of flora and fauna, two of Ms Shirley’s illustrations have made their way onto Hermès wristwatches. And now the Parisian leatherwoods maker has just revealed the third, and most impressive, instalment of this crossover – the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. A pocket watch boasting a minute repeater and tourbillon, the Aaaaargh! is decorated in leather mosaic and marquetry – and a very large eyeball in grand feu enamel. It’s named after the sound a Tyrannosaurus rex presumably made, and continues the phonetic naming conventions of Ms Shirley’s earlier watches, which were the Slim Hermès Grrrrr! with a bear motif and the Arceau Awooooo featuring a howling wolf. Initial thoughts Unlike the previous two Alice Shirley watches that were time-only, the Tyrannosaurus is a pocket watch – unusual in itself – and also combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. In addition to the complicated mechanics, the motif is executed more elaborately than on the earlier watches, which admittedly were substantially more affordable, most notably with the three-dimensional enamel eye and intricate leather inlays. The result is an intriguing, fun, and imaginative watch that is very much in keeping with Hermès’ quirky, elegant, and expensive house style. Compared to the typically safe and practical high-end complication, the Arceau...
Revolution
Introducing the Panerai Luminor GMT ION Special Edition – 44mm (PAM01177)
Panerai announces the reopening of its refreshed ION Orchard flagship boutique with the 100-piece Panerai Luminor GMT ION Special Edition – 44mm (PAM01177)
SJX Watches
Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch
As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...
SJX Watches
Business News: Watches & Wonders 2020 Opens (Again) in Sanya
Having scheduled for Geneva in April and then cancelled, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) then went online, and in a last minute decision, an actual fair in Shanghai’s West Bund Art Center. The surging demand for luxury watches in China as it emerges from the pandemic meant the inevitable success of W&W; Shanghai – which our correspondent outlined earlier this week – which is why the fair is happening again in China, this time in the resort city of Sanya. Opening barely a month after the close of the Shanghai event, W&W; Sanya takes place from September 29 to October 31 in the massive CDF Mall – a full month inside the world’s largest duty-free shopping centre. Importantly, W&W; Sanya is catered to the retail consumer instead of the traditional fair audience of watch retailers and journalists. Shopping paradise A city on the southernmost tip of Hainan island, which is known for its tropical weather and beaches, Sanya is the rapidly-growing capital of duty-free shopping in China. The Chinese government has announced plans to develop duty-free shopping on Hainan, which is already has already enjoyed a massive uptick. From the start of July to mid-August 2020, the CDF Mall recorded sales of over RMB5 billion, or over US$730 million, from over 740,000 customers. Open to the public daily, W&W; Sanya was conceived to cater to this demand. Eleven brands are taking part in the event in the CDF Mall, which, at 750,000 square feet or 72,000 square metres, is the world’s largest duty...
Deployant
Introducing the new Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge Ref. 5345 with insider commentary
Tourbillon Quai de l'Horloge Ref. 5345. Here is the release information, including prices and our insider commentary. The new Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge Reference 5345 retails for CHF 628,000 inclusive of Swiss taxes. Press Release with Commentary.
Revolution
Introducing the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de L’horloge
Breguet reincarnates the legendary double tourbillon Calibre 588 with a new timepiece that showcases all of its intricacies in plain sight.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge
Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...
Time+Tide
Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen
Well, it’s taken six years, but today a dream comes true. I am thrilled beyond measure to announce that former GQ Australia Editor, and recent Geneva Watch Days collaborator, Mike Christensen is joining the team as European Editor – Time+Tide is coming to London! The London-based role vanquishes the tyranny of distance and sees Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection
For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920
Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Galvin – a female-founded Australian microbrand producing classic, curved crystal designs
When life gave Finnish-born watchmaker of more than 10 years, Susan Galvin lemons, she made a refreshing glass of lemonade, donned a watchmakers coat, and began work on a company that is now ready to share the fruits of her labours. Galvin was made redundant due to a restructure back in March, and to make … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Galvin – a female-founded Australian microbrand producing classic, curved crystal designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Moonphase Watches for Mid-Autumn Festival, from Our Archives
It is the time of the year again, where the moon appears to the biggest and brightest. And of course, for the Chinese, it is the period where we get to feast on delectable mooncakes once again. During this time last year, we featured six gorgeous watches that has a moonphase display to pay tributeRead More
SJX Watches
On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai
The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon
Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Kurono By Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Green Mori – Good News, It’s Relatively Affordable; Bad News, It’s Hard To Get
Often with incoming pieces GaryG resists the temptation to wear a watch until he has had the chance to photograph it in pristine condition, but in the spirit of fun he chucked out the principle of restraint and slapped his new Hajime Asaoka Kurono Anniversary Green Mori right on his wrist. When you read Gary's story and see his photos you will know why.