Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
The evergreen and ever popular TAG Heuer Carrara gets a refresh with a new design and now equipped with the Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic.
Results for Caliber UN-118
923 articles · 6 videos found · page 9 of 31
Deployant
Revolution
The New ‘Calibre de Cartier’; Because 4 Millimeter Makes All The Difference!
The ‘Calibre de Cartier’ created for men in 2010, was a real turn in the collection. Were all models fairly elegant or uni sex, the ‘Calibre de Cartier’ jumped right in the collection with its rough lines, large 42 mm case, fluorescent hands and masculine look. The watch was not created for the typical Cartier […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida. The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial. In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across al...
Fratello
Introducing: The Singer Reimagined DualTrack - A GMT Based On The Calibre-4 Solotempo
Just before the doors to Watches and Wonders open, several brands not officially part of the event are also launching new watches. One release I’m very excited to see in person this week is the new Singer Reimagined DualTrack. Along with a chronograph, a GMT complication is one of my favorite features a watch can […] Visit Introducing: The Singer Reimagined DualTrack - A GMT Based On The Calibre-4 Solotempo to read the full article.
Monochrome
Announcing - The Naissance d’une Montre 4 “Le Carrousel” Project and the Birth of Bonniksen
Few initiatives in modern watchmaking genuinely place craft above product. The Time Æon Foundation is one that looks to safeguard and transmit traditional handmade techniques at the highest level. Its Naissance d’une Montre series has become the best expression of its mission, not just watches, but workshops of knowledge, where historical methods are relearned, applied, and […]
Monochrome
First Look - A New In-House Calibre for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm
Launched by Audemars Piguet in 2019, the compact Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm was welcomed by men and women alike. Fitted with a modified Frédéric Piguet 1185 ébauche, the big news for the most compact RO chronograph is the introduction of a brand new in-house calibre with a longer power reserve and a 4Hz frequency. […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Compact ArtyA Luminity Wavy 35mm, with a New Micro-rotor Calibre
Not so long ago, this summer, ArtyA, the avant-garde, family-run Geneva atelier steered by Yvan Arpa, launched the Luminity Wavy collection, debuting 40mm timepieces, pairing sculpture-like titanium or full-sapphire cases. Inside was the brand’s first proprietary micro-rotor calibre, AMR-02, developed with the specialist movement maker Telos. The idea was to let movement and light do […]
Deployant
Hands-on: the new Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3
We got a quick hands-on session with the new Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d'une Montre 3. Here are our impressions and live photographs.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar
Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: Naissance d’une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud, a Top Contender for The World’s Best Watch
Naissance d’une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud is a series of 11 completely hand crafted watches powered by a unique combination of a split bimetallic temperature-compensated Guillaume-type balance wheel and a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission system.
Monochrome
In-Depth - The Impressive Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 (Incl. Video)
What follows is not just the story of a watch, but also that of an extraordinary project – the Naissance d’une montre 3 or Birth of a Watch 3 in English. The Naissance d’une Montre started as a collaborative initiative launched in 2009 by the Time Æon Foundation to preserve and transmit traditional watchmaking techniques. […]
Monochrome
First Look - ArtyA’s First Micro-Rotor Calibre and the new Luminity Wavy Collection
ArtyA, the avant-garde, family-run Swiss watchmaker known for its expressive, often unconventional horological creations of its founder Yvan Arpa, introduces the next evolution of its Luminity collection with a significant update: the launch of its first proprietary micro-rotor movement, the calibre AMR-02. Combining a visually open design with chronometric performance, this new collection keeps movement […]
Fratello
Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green
Last month, at Watches and Wonders 2025, I visited the Trilobe booth. It was my first time seeing the brand’s watches, and they impressed me. The Parisian company depicts time uniquely through its pieces. The latest Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Green is a wearable modern watch in a new colorway. I’m always skeptical when I […] Visit Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g pulls an Uno reverse on plagiarists by homaging its own homages
In an unexpected and playful move, SU unveils two new Series1 colourways inspired by knock-offs of their watches rather than lawyering up.The post Studio Underd0g pulls an Uno reverse on plagiarists by homaging its own homages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Trilobe Une Folle Journée
Trilobe extends their Une Folle Journée collection with three new rhodium plated editions with three dial ring colour options in black, blue and green.
Fratello
Introducing: The Voluptuous Yet Elegant Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions In Black, Blue, And Green
Une folle journée is French for “a crazy day.” When you first put a Trilobe Une Folle Journée on your wrist, it is not a normal day anymore, even though it might have started like any other. That’s quite an achievement for the young Parisian watch brand. The “Crazy Day” with its time displayed by […] Visit Introducing: The Voluptuous Yet Elegant Trilobe Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions In Black, Blue, And Green to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked 150th Anniversary says goodbye to the Calibre 5135
It's been a great run.The post The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked 150th Anniversary says goodbye to the Calibre 5135 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Get Your €100K+ Speedy Now! Omega Offers The Speedmaster Calibre 321 With A New Platinum Flat-Link Bracelet
The first Speedmaster to hit retail with a six-figure price is here! Well, that’s if you don’t count the complicated Speedmaster Chrono Chime. Omega introduces the platinum Speedmaster Calibre 321 with a material-matching flat-link bracelet, and at our local AD in The Hague, the price of that most prestigious Speedy is €107,500. If you’re in […] Visit Get Your €100K+ Speedy Now! Omega Offers The Speedmaster Calibre 321 With A New Platinum Flat-Link Bracelet to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre hides a Skeleton X calibre behind smoky shadows
Ulysse Nardin and artist Amoureuxpeintre tease what's underneath with a smoked sapphire Blast in PVD titanium.The post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Amoureuxpeintre hides a Skeleton X calibre behind smoky shadows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni
Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498, the Ubiquitous and Robust Hand-Wound Calibre
How do a pair of manually wound, time-only, pocket watch-sized, potentially outdated movements introduced in the 1950s earn a place in our series on significant calibres, alongside the well-known El Primero and Valjoux 7750 chronograph calibre and the omnipresent automatic ETA 2824 and 2892? Several factors contribute to their importance. Despite seeming unusual today, the […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4
Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400
Last week, we took an excursion to the land of Nouvelle Horlogerie. This week, we’re returning to our home territory of stainless steel dive watches. Seiko just presented us with two new references under the Marinemaster name. The SLA077 and SLA079 are modern interpretations of the famous 6159-7001 from 1968. As they’re in the more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 Vs. Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre
Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54
It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date
Another Sunday morning, another showdown! This week, Thomas and Daan pit two popular dive watches against each other. Thomas fights for the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400, while Daan defends the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date. These two watches are similar in price, function, and concept but are worlds apart in style and execution. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm
Oris has tweaked its popular dive watch resulting in the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm. The latest creation from the Holstein-based manufacturer gently reworks the original design, including shrinking the case to 38 mm and removing the date window while retaining the in-house movement. The cleaner look is matched with a green dial with a gradient finish that fades from metallic green to black on the dial’s periphery. Initial thoughts The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris’ bestseller and has been an experimental playground for the brand to iterate case sizes, materials, and dial colours, including a steel-and-bronze version Chinese watch magazine Ctime. The new 38 mm version illustrates this. Although it doesn’t look strikingly different from its predecessors at first glance, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the culmination the progressive development of the model. It combines the in-house Calibre 400 and 38 mm case size, along with the removal of the date window that watch enthusiasts will applaud. The green sunburst dial pops While the vintage-inspired aesthetic is somewhat generic (and green a common colour for dive watches), the new Divers Sixty-Five is a decent value proposition at US$3,900, especially considering the in-house automatic movement with an unusually long five-day power reserve. Vivid green Unlike past 38 mm models that were equipped with Sellita movements, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the first 38 mm model in the line to feature the brand’s proprietary ...
SJX Watches
Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre
Twenty twenty-four marks the 100th anniversary of the first-ever Citizen watch – a pocket watch powered by the hand-wound cal. 16. To celebrate the centenary, Citizen looks towards the next century with an all-new calibre making its debut in the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a pocket watch with a pleasing vintage aesthetic but one that’s entirely modern in materials and manufacturing. Initial thoughts Pocket watches are uncommon today, which is perhaps why they are difficult to get right in terms of look and feel. Contemporary pocket watches often try to replicate the look and feel of their vintage counterparts, but usually end up seeming artificial and lacking in authenticity. As a result, the Citizen anniversary pocket watch is certainly an interesting proposition. The Citizen cal. 0270 At first sight, the watch is convincingly vintage in appearance. It is evidently carefully designed, with classical styling on both sides and well-chosen details in the movement, which lends it a genuine sense of timelessness. The dial design is evocative of railway pocket watches (which Citizen did supply to Japanese railway companies), while the movement has the elegant bridges and proportions characteristics of old-school calibres. But on closer examination, many details in the dial and case reveal themselves to be modern, like the fact that the case is titanium or the balance wheel has Gyromax-style regulating weights. Even the seemingly a...
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Power Reserve Big Date sports the brand’s 31st in-house calibre
What better way to celebrate a significant milestone for a young brand that a shiny new release?The post The Frederique Constant Power Reserve Big Date sports the brand’s 31st in-house calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy
After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.