Results for Cloisonné Enamel

Jaeger-LeCoultre releases two new Reverso Tribute Enamel models in homage to Hokusai

anOrdain Unveils Model 3 Method with Wood-Grain Enamel Dial

Breguet Introduces the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes with an Enamel Dial

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal

Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture.  The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match.  The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...

Why I Bought Them: Custom Aventurine-Dial And Blue Enamel-Dial Watches From Lundis Bleus

The Lundis Bleus arts and crafts are a very special aspect of watchmaking. It is not so much about the mechanical side – escapements, micro rotors, gearwheels, and gold chatons – but more the artistic and aesthetic (dial) side of independent watchmaking. Is this why Thomas Brechtel chose to buy two custom-made watches from the boutique brand?

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

The 3,900 Swiss Franc Watch With Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Second Opinions: A $27,500 Cloisonné-Dialed Oris Aquis Makes More Sense Than You Might Think

"We do our work quietly without all that needless fuss." –Sun Wukong, in Chapter 23 of Journey to the West, by Wu Cheng'en

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia”

The upcoming spring auction season is bringing with it a surprising number of vintage Patek Philippe world time wristwatches. Christie’s will be offering three of them during its evening sale on May 22, including the famed and unique ref. 1415 HU in platinum that once held the record of most expensive watch in the world when it last sold publicly in 2002 and achieved CHF6.6 million including fees. Phillips, on the other hand, will be offering the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 “Eurasia” publicly for the very first time. Long owned by an Italian collector until it was acquired by the present owner in the mid 1990s, this ref. 2523 is one of just three known with a cloisonné dial bearing the “Eurasia” map – and it is in strikingly fine condition. I put it on my wrist during the preview exhibition, and the watch is gorgeous, crisp, and arguably every dollar of the ten or more million it’ll sell for. The hallowed complication Despite not being amongst the most complicated watches Patek Philippe made in the 20th century, its world-time wristwatches (and also pocket watches) are amongst the brand’s most coveted and valuable timepieces. Well before the platinum ref. 1415 HU set a record in 2002, examples of the ref. 2523 with cloisonné dial were regularly selling for well over US$1 million at auction in the 1990s – and are the inspiration for the today’s world-time models, including the recent ref. 5231J. The fact that the world-time was a favourite of Osvaldo Patr...

Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution & The Rake

We collaborate with Moritz Grossmann on the special-edition Benu 37 Steel that both inherits and reinvents the traditions of Saxon watchmaking.

Patek Philippe 5370 In Platinum With Blue Grande Feu Enamel Dial

Introducing: The Breguet Reine De Naples 8918 In Grand Feu Enamel

An elegant watch, for a more civilized age.

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial

Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity. The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model. Smoky blue And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial. The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour. But unusually, the di...

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel

Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...

Introducing: Seiko Presage Prestige Line Enamel Dial Spring Drive

For the first time, Spring Drive powers Presage watches.

Introducing the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon with Enamel Dial

Piaget 1200E: A Trapeze Act In Enamel

It is indeed breathtaking when trapeze artists perform their daring acts high above the crowds in the circus tent. No safety lines, just a full confidence in their own ability to perform on the edge of what is humanly possible. These skills are often the result of being born into them, practicing relentlessly from a […]

SIHH 2014: Jaeger LeCoultre Grand Feu – the return of the enamel dials

The house of Jaeger LeCoultre is one of those who we keep in close watch here at Deployant. They are one of the most innovative in movement development, and design, but also in creating beautiful timepieces which will stand the test of time. This year’s SIHH crop is no different. Elsewhere we touched briefly onRead More

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025

Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”

Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...

New: Piaget Altiplano Year of the Tiger grand feu dial by Anita Porchet

Piaget continues their Chinese Zodiac series for the Year of the Tiger, with a new métiers d'art piece with grand feu enamel cloisonné by Anita Porchet.

Rolex Enamels the Daytona

This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial. Initial thoughts Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter - it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain. Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix.  The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial - a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general. What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configurat...

New: RGM Model 25 Yellowstone National Park

RGM celebrates Yellowstone National Park’s 150th Anniversary (1872-2022) with a new Model 25 with cloisonne enamelo dial.

The Lion, The Horse, The Fish and The Eagle: tales of beauty and art from Cartier

Craftwork in art watches. Cartier has been at this game for a long time, and with great success. Today’s post shows several beautiful and artistic techniques by the marque, to show off the virtuosity of their craftsmen. The lion, with marquetry. The horse in enamel painting work The fish in cloisoine And the eagle inRead More

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Recap

Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Rolex marked a century of the Oyster case with an enamel-dialled Daytona and new Oyster Perpetuals, but also revised the ugly duckling of the catalogue — the Yacht-Master II — transforming it into an appealing and interesting chronograph. Patek Philippe arguably overshadowed the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus with a new Celestial that’s capable of tracking sunrise and sunset year-round (at least in Geneva). Vacheron Constantin and Grand Seiko introduced titanium sports watches many had been waiting for, and TAG Heuer reinvented the chronograph with a fascinating compliant mechanism. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

SJX Podcast: Rolex Marks Oyster Centenary with Daytona and Day-Date

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand’s new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production. We’ll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry’s biggest event. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art

The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes. Initial thoughts The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger. Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price. The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in ...

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF

Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement. With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register. Initial thoughts After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking. The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements. The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chrono...

A Fresh Palette for the Breguet Tradition

Breguet refreshes its Tradition collection for 2026 with new colourways and expanded grand feu enamel dial options across five references, building on the momentum of the brand’s 250th anniversary year. The line-up spans four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde and one manually wound GMT, all underpinned by the architecturally distinctive cal. 505 that has defined the collection since its 2005 introduction. Initial thoughts Inspired by an original Abraham-Louis Breguet’s montres à tact pocket watch from the late 18th century, the Tradition collection, released in 2005, was Breguet’s first major new model family under Swatch Group management. The central barrel placement and unusual gear train arrangement perfectly captures the essence of the original pocket watches, and this aspect of the design remains as recognisable and distinctive as ever, despite the a growing number of independent watchmakers that have introduced watches with a similar layout. In fact, the cal. 505 is so successful as a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s work that a variation of it was adapted for use in the award-winning Classique Souscription 2025 introduced last year. For 2026, the Tradition collection has been slightly refreshed with modern colourways and more grand feu enamel dial options. The five new models include four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde, one of which features a diamond-set bezel, and one manually wound reference with a dual-time complicatio...

Introducing: De Rijke & Co. Launches Three Special Edition Amalfi Designs In Ceramic (Live Pics)

In the Dutch brand's continued collaboration with artist Guy Allen, three new automotive-inspired dial designs in Champlevé enamel now get paired with ceramic cases.