Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: An IWC Ingenieur Chronograph That's Ready For The Formula One Track
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
285 articles · 1 video found · page 9 of 10
Bracelet that flows directly from the case without separate end-links. Genta\'s 1972 Royal Oak innovation.
Every Patek Nautilus: 3700/1A Jumbo Genta, 5711/1A, 5712 moonphase, 5980 chrono, 5990 Travel Time, 5811/1G white gold, 5740 perpetual.
Biography and iconic designs of the 20th century's most influential watch designer.
Hodinkee
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
SJX Watches
Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...
Time+Tide
Character watches have enjoyed a resurgence as of late. We’ve seen TAG Heuer x Mario, the revived Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, Konstantin Chaykin and his Minions Joker watch, a plethora of Snoopy releases from brands such as Omega, Franck Muller and Bamford Watch Department and more. In fact, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Popeye Vanguard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...
Hodinkee
Think you can top Gérald Genta's original? Now's your chance.
SJX Watches
One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...
SJX Watches
Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...
Time+Tide
If you were ever wondering what started the stainless-steel sports watch craze we find ourselves in today, none of it would have been possible without one particular watch – which recently celebrated its 50th Birthday. On April 15th, 1972, Audemars Piguet, Georges Golay, and Gérald Genta would forever change the luxury sports watch segment – … ContinuedThe post The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Genta-designed watch for less than a ticket to Copenhagen.
Hodinkee
The Ingenieur ref. 3521 is a Genta-designed contemporary of the Nautilus and Royal Oak. So why are they going for a song?
Time+Tide
Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The legacy of legendary watch designer Gerald Genta lives on in the creations from Gerald Charles, an independent family-owned watch company he founded.
Deployant
Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Octo was famously designed by the legendary Gerald Genta. I see the Octo Roma as maintaining the essence of Genta’s spiritual work without its square-edged temple case sides, as the octagonal shape is, of course, the heart of the Octo. The range is a smaller wearing, rounder feeling Octo, but the Bulgari Octo … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In 1989, designer Emmanuel Gueit, who, at the time, worked for Audemars Piguet, presented a conceptual sketch that introduced a more robust take on the classic Genta designed Royal Oak. Its design, later realised for commercial release in 1993, came at a time where bigger and bulkier watches really spoke to a younger generation and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore reinvigorates the original design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While this series is called “Don’t Feed the Hype”, I am not saying these watches are all hype – they definitely offer aesthetics, finishes, craftsmanship, and technology to back it up. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is such a phenomenal reference that ultimately ushered in the era of Genta domination. I love the watch and, … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Parmigiani launched its first sports watch, the Tonda GT, last year. It has an integrated bracelet naturally – inevitable given current trends. Parmigiani is, however, pretty late to the game, since the high-end sports watch with an integrated-bracelet is well used idea. The big names have been doing it since the 1970s, courtesy of Gerald Genta, but the recent popularity of the style means many brands have had a go. Notable new entrants include Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., and even Citizen. Now their ranks are joined by Parmigiani, which, against the odds, has pulled it off with an original, high-quality luxury-sports watch. The Tondagraph GT in its original iteration that was a limited edition of 200 The origins of the Tonda GT might not seem promising. Lacking a historical sports watch design, Parmigiani elected to instead transform one of its dress-watch cases into a sports watch. Surprisingly, the Tonda GT is arguably better looking than the Tonda dress watch. The most compelling offering in the sports watch line is the Tondagraph GT, which combines a chronograph, annual calendar, and sensible pricing. Initial thoughts On paper the Tondagraph GT might not seem interesting. It’s yet another integrated-bracelet luxury-sports watch – and it’s powered by a modular movement. But in hand, the watch is surprisingly appealing. The case is big but thin, with a bracelet that’s equally slim, creating a watch with a comfortable, streamlined profile on the wrist. Even th...
SJX Watches
Having rounded up some of the interesting and probably overlooked at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, we now take a look at some of the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale. The auction includes big ticket headline lots like a F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, and of course the F.P. Journe tourbillon disguised as Harry Winston. But it also encompasses the less obvious, including a Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine, Singer Reimagined Track 1, a Bulgari-era Gerald Genta perpetual calendar in gold and tantalum, and an early-generation H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual 1 that’s excellent value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place in the evening of June 5 (lots 801-852), and on June 6 (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 809 – Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine Black Sea Cheerful and eminently affordable, the Tourbillon Marine is typical Alain Silberstein. Mr Silberstein’s once explained his approach was to create unique, personalised wristwatches that arouse the emotion. By that measure, the Tourbillon Marine succeeds – it sets itself apart from every diving watch. In his 1990s heyday, Alain Silberstein was rebellious and avant-garde, standing in stark contrast to the strictly conservative style that dominated high horology at the time. This watch is from the early 2000s, but still very much a quintessential Alain Silberstein creation. The dial is quirky and playful – the deep sea ren...
SJX Watches
Inspired by the tale of a water resistant sports watch commissioned in 1934 by Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh – which was actually a rectangular watch – the modern Pasha was penned by Gerald Genta, the man behind many of the most iconic watches of the 1970s and 1980s, which were often considered avant-garde for their time. One year after the relaunch of the time-only model, the jeweller is debuting the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new chronograph on the wrist Initial Thoughts The Pasha Chronograph is an appealing watch. It does wear slightly large at 41 mm and but is surprisingly svelte at just under 12 mm in thickness. Add to that 100 m of water resistance and a moderate price premium of US$3,500 or so over the time-only model and you realise that the Pasha Chronograph is a compelling package. Granted, the “Vendome” lugs are not to everyone’s tastes, but the Pasha remains as classically Cartier as the jeweller’s form watches. The “Vendome” lugs and chain-secured crown cap are Pasha design hallmarks The movement is finished modestly and industrially, a sharp contrast to the dial finishing, which punches above its price point in terms of its detail. Nonetheless, its price of a bit under US$10,000 in steel makes the Pasha chronograph competitive, and also good value. Fine details The Pasha Chronograph measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.97 mm in thickness – it retains the same diameter as the time-only model and gains a...
Time+Tide
Gerald Genta-inspired? Perhaps, but still very much its own style and formal elegance. The Batavi Architect is the latest upcoming release from the Dutch microbrand behind the popping fresh Kosmopoliet GMT, a colourful take on a vintage skin diver with a GMT function. This time the influence is from the laid-back cool of the 70s, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.
Time+Tide
Let’s not beat around the bush, I can see it too. The Gerald Genta influence is strong here, but in a somewhat butcher presence than other arboreally named references and porthole-alike wristwear. So before you start throwing punches, yes, certain design cues are notable in The Ark from Jacob Veil. But maybe those cues have … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Twenty-twenty will remain as a most peculiar year for the world as well as for trade fairs. Having taken place August 26-29,Geneva Watch Days (GWD) might be the only physical show the watch industry will see this year, at least in Europe. How did it fare? Was it a success for the brands, media, and public? Here is an overview of the atmosphere. After the demise of Baselworld and the rescheduling of Watches & Wonders to Shanghai (will it really happen?), GWD was a ray of light in the dark times the watch community was experiencing. First mooted by Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive of Bulgari, and a few other watch brands, GWD quickly grew as many brands hopped on the bandwagon, hoping to salvage what already looked like an annus horribilis. “Phygital” is the new normal More than 20 brands were showing during the four days of GWD, which was a series of exhibitions and events at venues across Geneva, rather than being concentrated in a large hall as the traditional fairs are. Most brands were part of GWD itself – Artya, Breitling, Bulgari, Bovet, De Bethune, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, H.Moser & Cie., Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, Maurice Lacroix, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk. But the official GWD exhibitors were accompanied by an array of independent brands more than happy to share a common audience. Carl F. Bucherer tagged along by presenting its novelties at the Bucherer store in Geneva, while Le Salon des Horlogers, a small, cosy store i...
SJX Watches
Typically offered with a familiar guilloche dial, Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch has been facelifted with a polished, mineral stone dial. Equipped with glossy, black onyx dial featuring pink-gold hour markers, the Laureato Infinity Edition is a limited edition in two case sizes for men and women respectively. Initial thoughts The luxury-sports watch category is populated by many similar watches, driven by the popularity of the Gerald Genta-designed segment leaders, which are arguably the definitive sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials. Few watches manage to differentiate themselves; even the standard Laureato blends in. The Laureato Infinity Edition manages to be different without trying too hard, while also being priced reasonably. The combination isn’t imaginative but it works well. The dial is a glossy black, matched with contrasting hour markers in pink gold, and markings in powdered-silver print – a combination that is clean, classic, but also different from its peers. The only odd element of the design are the rhodium-plated hands, which are probably highly legible, but don’t match the colour of the hour markers. Arguably the only weakness are the in-house movements. Both are robust, reliable calibres that have been around for decades, but they lack many of the upgrades found in newer movements, most notably a longer power reserve. The standard Laureato is already a well priced watch. The Infinity Edition sticks to that formula ...
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First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers. With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow. But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches. Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.
Deployant
Breaking News: Geneva Watch Days will take place from August 26th to 29th. Luxury maisons taking part: Bvlgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk.
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Gerald Genta is enjoying something of a renaissance now, with the frenzied demand for his most famous designs. And now one of his more obscure designs is making a comeback. One of the most acclaimed and prolific watch designers, Genta’s heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him design a host of iconic watches, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. After his eponymous brand was acquired by Bulgari in the year 2000, Genta founded another brand named after his first and middle names – Gerald Charles. Though Gerald Charles went dormant after Genta’s death in 2011, the brand has been revived on its 20th anniversary by Genta’s former business partner. The inaugural launch is its first stainless steel watch – the Maestro Anniversary, which is distinctive, eccentric, and very much reflective of Genta’s late-career style. And 30% of the proceeds from each Maestro sold will to donated to the COVID-19 fund set up by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Initial thoughts I like Genta’s designs, and I like the Maestro. It is a unique case that manages to draw a balance between being sporty and elegant – an endearing trait that I find common amongst Genta’s designs. The new Maestro keeps the dial functional and simple, and adds a pattern rubber strap to the mix, giving it a casual yet distinctive look. But at over US$9,600, the price is too steep, especially in light of the Soprod-based movement inside. The hefty, 30% donation to the WHO’s C...
Revolution
In episode three of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have our latest US editor (@steviewatches) speaking with us today. He tells us about his Gerald Genta Automatic Jump Hour Retrograde Mickey Mouse watch and other unexpected pieces in his collection.
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Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...
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While Bulgari is probably best known for the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo and serpent-inspired, jewelled timepieces, one of its earliest wristwatch icons – and one with a broader appeal – is the Bulgari Bulgari, which happens to have been designed by Gerald Genta. And the new Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition 2020 – each accompanied by a set of prints – actually harks back to the origins of the design, which was conceived as an entry-level watch. Introduced in 1977, the Bulgari Bulgari was Genta’s adaptation of the Bulgari Roma, a digital quartz watch that Bulgari gifted its top 100 clients in 1975. Engraved with “BVLGARI” and “ROMA” on its bezel, the watch borrowed from ancient Roman coins with the reigning Emperor’s name inscribed on the circumference. Genta transformed the dinky gift into the Bulgari Bulgari, which has since become one of the jeweller’s trademark watches. The Bulgari Bulgari of 1977 (left), and the dinky digital watch of 1975. Photo – Bulgari Initial thoughts The new Cities Edition takes inspiration from a limited run of watches with black-plastic cases in the early 1990s. Though small, those were good-looking watches, because they combined the classic Bulgari Bulgari style with a stark black-and-gold livery. But the cases were plastic and the watches felt cheap – though to be fair they were cheaply, and fairly, priced. Now Bulgari has translated the same look into a larger, upgraded watch with a steel case and in-house mo...
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