Results for Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us a Medium Sized Dive Watch, and it Includes a Spring Drive Powered U.F.A. Movement

If you were take a poll of Grand Seiko enthusiasts and collectors to ask them what they thought was missing from the brand’s catalog, I have a feeling a significant portion of respondents would tell you the same thing: a great dive watch. Grand Seiko has, of course, been making divers for years, and a lot of them have been objectively outstanding and well liked by certain pockets of the Grand Seiko community. But they’ve never had a diver that’s really caught fire in the way that something like the Snowflake has – there’s no icon in their dive watch range. I think most would agree that this is at least in part because to this point the brand’s dive watches have always been on the chunky side, and not really a viable competitor to the Submariners and Seamasters of the world in terms of their wearability.  Grand Seiko seeks to change that at Watches & Wonders this year, with the rather ambitious release of the new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. This new 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium dive watch uses a new Spring Drive movement featuring the same tech as last year’s 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts an accuracy rate of plus or minus 20 seconds per year.  There are really two notable things about this watch. First, there’s the movement, Caliber 9RB1, which has the same U.F.A (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation as the 9RB2 introduced last year. The 20 second annual accuracy rate is, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate wristwatch movement powe...

The Best Entry Level Diver Under $500? - Citizen Promaster Dive Eco-Drive 41mm Review

The post The Best Entry Level Diver Under $500? – Citizen Promaster Dive Eco-Drive 41mm Review appeared first on Worn & Wound.

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver

TAG Heuer has been synonymous with motorsport for decades, and they’re back with an eye-popping new edition of their classic Monaco chronograph. The Monaco is one of the cornerstones of the brand’s legendary foundation, and has been since it burst into the spotlight way back in 1969, as one of the very first automatic chronographs … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Historical Deep Dive: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 2523J ‘North America’ at Christie’s Hong Kong Spring Auction

VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy

It’s another knock-down, drag-out street fight here on Versus, and this match-up pits two classic divers, the current version of the venerable Seiko Turtle against the bomb-proof Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive. Once again, we match up two comparable watches in similar styles and price points, and compare their shared qualities, and the ones that set … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auctions: Previewing New York's Spring Auction Season At Phillips, Sotheby's, And Christie's

Auction season can be exhausting. I can barely believe that we do this twice a year. We often only have the time and energy to cover the main show in Geneva, with a few thousand lots offered between four auction houses just last month. But after Geneva and Hong Kong (which comes before Geneva for some houses and after for others), the circus comes to New York, and this year we're going to take a gander at the watches on offer in the city. Most auction houses don't drop their catalogs until after Geneva is over. That prevents people from holding their bids because they're doing the "distracted boyfriend meme" and looking at future watches. That keeps them from going all-in in Geneva, which isn't what the auction houses want. They want your bids now and later. Well, later is here, and I hope you have some cash left over. Weirdly, I'm getting a sense of déjà vu; there are a few familiar-looking watches. So let's go ahead and take a look. Phillips It was a banner weekend for Phillips in Hong Kong with a pretty fantastic $51.5 million sale, backed by the $10.2 million sale of the first series rose gold Patek 2499, which became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia. That is one of three mega Pateks Phillips was offering this season, which is rounded out by an incredibly clean and honest 1518. I know the record result means that that should be the watch to pick, all things being equal, but I still like a watch that looks basically untouched. Photo courtesy Phillips. P...

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 - Live Pics)

It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record.  That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...

The New Spring Novelties from Fears

Revitalized British brand Fears has made many waves in the independent watch scene in recent years, building a reputation for vintage-inspired timepieces backed by robust modern movements, and distinctive styling. Now, Fears releases their first pilot’s watch in 180 years, alongside several new iterations of core collection favorites, to round out a slate of spring novelties that carry forward the brand’s unique combination of youthful innovation and historically-informed aesthetics. First up is that pilot watch: named for Filton, a town neighboring the Fears homebase in Bristol that is largely known for housing the Bristol Aeroplane Company, the Brunswick 40 ‘Filton’ aims to capture the adventurous air of early flight. The Filton sits within the Brunswick 40mm line, giving it a recognizable silhouette with added functionality. A date window at 6 o’clock introduces the complication to the Brunswick 40 line for the first time, and the Raven Black sunburst and Squadron Green gradient dial options evoke cockpit instruments and vintage squadron markings respectively. Applied numerals in Fears’ own ‘Edwin’ typeface hammer home the early 20th century look, with a triangle at 12 o’clock to promote legibility. Sword pipette hands round out the design, with the Raven Black model also featuring a “ghost effect’ with matching black hand centers. Inside, a reliable La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber movement beats away, and the Filton sits on a chocolate brown...

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales

We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...

Auctions: Previewing The Monaco Legend Spring 2026 Auction

The spring auction season is sneaking up on us quickly. Things start early with Sotheby's Hong Kong auction (with its boatload of Cartier), which slightly edges Monaco Legend Group out of the gate, as their auction starts one day earlier. But on April 25 and 26, MLG will open its spring auction, which promises to be one of the more interesting and eclectic vintage-focused auctions of the season. That's not to say it's all vintage, of course. The auction starts out with a Bamford-modified blackout GMT (that the Parmegiani family behind the auction house seems to have an affinity for), an RM35-02 Nadal, a Journe Répétition Souveraine, and more Patek 5004s than you can shake a stick at, keeping things spicy. Lot 109 – F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine – €400,000 to €800,000. There are 288 lots, and while the top lots sometimes feel a bit obvious to call out (mostly because everyone likely peers longingly at these watches and wishes they could bid), it's incredibly important to examine what is driving the top end of the market. And if you weren't paying close enough attention, you'd potentially miss the top lot. While it might look like a Rolex Daytona, like the ref. 116509 with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and different indices, this is a whole different ballgame. Lot 78 of the auction is one of the "FAB 4" Daytonas, four unique platinum Zenith Daytonas, each executed with a hardstone dial (one with turquoise, one with lapis lazuli, two mother-of-pearl) made at...

IWC’s new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the brand’s first space watch

The IWC Pilot's Venturer Vertical Drive is the storied brand's first-ever watch designed, engineered, and certified for human spaceflight.The post IWC’s new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the brand’s first space watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fears unveils its 2026 Spring novelties, including their first pilots’ watch in 180 years

Fears unveils its latest 2026 releases, including a range of pastel dials, a jump hour, and their first pilots' watch in 180 yearsThe post Fears unveils its 2026 Spring novelties, including their first pilots’ watch in 180 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen Photon Caps Five Decades of Eco-Drive Innovation

Citizen continues to celebrate five decades of solar-powered watchmaking with the limited-edition Photon, a sleek titanium watch that combines the brand’s signature technologies, namely Eco-Drive and Super Titanium, in an attractive and affordable package. Initial thoughts In the age of low-cost micro-brands and connected smartwatches, it’s never been harder to stand out with a relatively simple quartz watch. Citizen, however, is more than up to the challenge, and is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its industry-leading Eco-Drive technology with a slate of new models that includes the Photon. The Photon embodies Citizen’s strengths, with a solar-powered quartz movement and durable Super Titanium case, which benefits from the brand’s leading position in the field of scratch-resistant surface coatings. The result is an affordable and appealing pair of integrated bracelet sport watches with a distinctive case shape and multi-layered dial. Unlimited energy Citizen didn’t invent the solar-powered watch - that honour goes to the Synchronar 2100 - but it quickly took the lead in bringing this technology to maturity. The Japanese titan has never looked back, and today licenses its category-leading Eco-Drive technology to brands like TAG Heuer. To generate electricity from light, the engineers at Citizen have developed a number of semi-opaque dial materials over the years. For the Photon, Citizen has opted for a multi-layer dial with overlapping slits, creating a d...

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level

Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.

Eco-Drive Turns 50 and Citizen Is Celebrating With a Wild Titanium Watch

The new Citizen Eco-Drive Photon pairs Super Titanium construction with a dial that creates color through light alone.

Citizen Celebrates 50 Years of Eco-Drive with a Hand-Dyed Washi Dial

I've come close to pulling the trigger on a few of Citizen's higher-end Eco-Drive watches over the years, and each time I talked myself out of it. Not because the watches weren't impressive, but because the right one never quite lined up with the moment. Now, Citizen is making the decision a little harder. The brand has just announced "The Citizen" Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition (ref. AQ4091-56W), marking five decades since it introduced the first solar-powered analogue watch back in 1976.

The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style

When I read the press information for the Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition, I couldn’t believe it has been five decades since the Japanese brand introduced its first Eco-Drive-powered watch. That’s especially surprising when I put it into personal perspective, as it happened a year before I was born. In my mind, Eco-Drive technology still […] Visit The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style to read the full article.

The Art of Packing for Venice: A Spring Grand Tour with Venezianico

The post The Art of Packing for Venice: A Spring Grand Tour with Venezianico appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Windup Watch Fair Returns to Dallas for the Second Year in a Row

The Windup Watch Fair is heading back to Dallas, TX and this year, it’s getting even better. After an incredible turnout in 2025, our biggest year ever for Windup Watch Fairs, we’re returning to Dallas for the second year in a row and expanding from a two-day show into a full three-day weekend, March 13–15. Once again, we’ll be taking over the Hickory Street Annex, a beautifully restored 1921 Gulf Oil distribution center whose two-level industrial space blends historic character with modern finishes, creating the perfect backdrop for a celebration of watches and watch culture.   Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Friday, March 13: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, March 14: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 15: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary This year’s Dallas Fair will feature more than 40 brands, led by our headline sponsors Christopher Ward, Junghans, and Oris. Christopher Ward is known for blending modern British design with Swiss watchmaking precision, delivering high-quality mechanical watches that punch well above their price point. Junghans brings over a century of German watchmaking heritage to the fair, celebrated for its clean Bauhaus-inspired aesthetics and timeless minimalist design. Oris rounds out the trio as one of Switzerland’s leading independent watchmakers, respected for its purpose-driven mechanical watches and strong ties to aviation, diving, and motorsport. Each brand will be showcasing its lates...

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

The Petrolhead Corner - The New Porsche 911 GT3 and How That Monster Is As a Daily Drive

Have you ever wondered what it is like to drive a Porsche 911 GT3? I did! Of course, it’s the most powerful and driver-focused, naturally aspirated version of the legendary 911, and it is praised by everyone for its brutal power, magnificent driving capabilities and sheer fun. After eight years of driving a 911 Carrera […]

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions

SJX and Brandon Moore kick off episode seven of the SJX Podcast with the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (which includes a tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch), discussing why this time might be different. Also on the docket is a recap of the spring auction season, which included strong prices for hot names in independent watchmaking, though other “indies” waned, surprising showings from hitherto esoteric clocks and pocket watches, and some value buys with out-of-vogue timepieces. Lastly, we recap Breguet’s 250th anniversary launches so far, which have met with a mixed reception, but demonstrate signs of life for a historic brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook

Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025

Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook 2025 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Find out what the biggest stars of Formula 1 would drive and wear on their wrists for the rest of their lives

Find out what the stars of Drive to Survive had to say on the red carpet of the F1 75 event at the O2 in London.The post Find out what the biggest stars of Formula 1 would drive and wear on their wrists for the rest of their lives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial - Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens

An article by Rob Memel, antiquarian horologist, professional certified watchmaker since 1984, and author of the book The Development Towards Huygens’ Spiral Spring (1660-1676), from which this article is a summary. About two years ago, I embarked on an in-depth investigation into another watch-related invention by Christiaan Huygens: the spiral spring on a balance wheel. […]

The Omega Spirate System: A New Idea in Balance Spring Technology

The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

Singapore Micro-Brand Fair “Spring Sprang Sprung” Returns

A fair dedicated to micro brands, Spring Sprang Sprung returns for its third year and will take place at the National Library Singapore from October 18-20, 2024. Now bigger than in previous years, the annual event will play host over 43 exhibitors this year, mostly micro brands like Singapore-based Zelos, but also including bigger names like Oris. Spring Sprang Sprung was founded Sugiharto Kusumadi of Singapore retailer Red Army Watches and Yong Keong Lim of micro brand Feynman. As in past years, the event will be more than just a watch exhibition. It encompasses talks and classes, including a leather-crafting workshop, as well as live music by local musician Sheng Li. Tickets are required to attend and can be obtained online via registration on Spring-sprang-sprung.com.