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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

OPINION: Is this the most important (and overlooked) element in watch design? Time+Tide
May 27, 2018

OPINION: Is this the most important (and overlooked) element in watch design?

Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is, watchmakers and fans are conditioned to a very top-down visual approach of watches. Look at any brand’s site, or most of the watches … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Is this the most important (and overlooked) element in watch design? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The complete package - Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin s Marine Tourbillon When Aug 8, 2017

HANDS-ON: The complete package - Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon

When it was originally conceived, the tourbillon was a technical solution to a specific problem - the impact of gravity on the accuracy of a pocket watch’s movement. These days the whirling cage of finely finished metal represents something else. For brands, it’s a bravura statement of prowess. For watch lovers, it’s typically the crowning … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The complete package – Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns Having 49m ago

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns

Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne 1h ago

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18th, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found his eponymous company, and 145 years after that a new A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: the Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase (1999) The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched the 1815 Moonphase Emil Lange (1849-1921) to mark...

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps 7h ago

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo

Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...

First Look - The Bulgari Titanio, The Titanium Evolution of the Aluminium Collection Monochrome
Bulgari Titanio 7h ago

First Look - The Bulgari Titanio, The Titanium Evolution of the Aluminium Collection

Titanium is the common thread running through Bulgari’s Geneva Watch Days 2026 releases. Alongside the more experimental Octo Finissimo models, the brand also brings the material to one of its most recognisable everyday collections. The new Bulgari Titanio evolves the familiar Aluminium series with cases made from grade 5 titanium, while retaining the collection’s characteristic […]

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition Hodinkee
Richard Mille prices But Moser 9h ago

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition

What We Know If H. Moser is guaranteed to do anything, it's to surprise us. A watch made out of cheese. A watch inspired by the Reebok "Pump." Those are easier to process because they're fun and a bit silly. But when Moser signed a deal to be a sponsor of Alpine's Formula 1 team, it was even more surprising to me. That's a serious sponsorship for a brand that makes far fewer than 5,000 watches a year and doesn't charge Richard Mille prices. But Moser is taking full advantage of the platform and turning out very sporty watches, including this new collaboration.  This isn't the first collaboration between the brands; it began with a surprising smartwatch for the pit crew, paired with a skeletonized chronograph. Pierre Gasly (one of Alpine's drivers) also got his own limited edition. But this one takes the automotive inspiration in a different direction: lightweight and with all the Alcantara you could want (maybe even more).  While Moser has done a Streamliner tourbillon in ceramic before, that watch came with a full dial and a ceramic bracelet. The 40mm by 12.8mm case is made of anthracite grey ceramic, but now it comes with an integrated light blue Alcantara strap, a synthetic microfiber material with a soft, suede-like texture. If you're into cars, you've run into this material a lot. Unlike the previous release, this is the first skeleton-flying tourbillon version of the Streamliner, made in ceramic. Powered by the HMC 814, the watch has blue-toned plates with diamond...

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon 9h ago

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition

There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 What 10h ago

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

What We Know Okay, let's do this one last time, yeah? For real this time. This is it. At least, I think this is it, because Doxa has yet another new watch (actually, a whole collection of 'em), and it's one a lot of people have been asking for. But before we get to that, a quick recap, because this year, Doxa has dropped (by my count and in rough order): the oversized Sub 750T, the new Sub 200 T.Graph II, the limited edition Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a LE Sub 200 T.Graph II with Topper, a Sub Army 200T (in collaboration with Hodinkee), and — just over a week ago — the very cool Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" in collaboration with San Diego's Belmont Watches. So, it's been a big year, and now they're rounding out the summer with a hell of a line expansion with the — now standard production — Doxa Sub 300 Ti5. Basically, this new watch takes the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler released earlier in the summer and strips out all the 'Cussler-y' details. The result is… well, it's basically a Sub 300 in titanium, something I've heard plenty of Doxa fans clamoring for since the Cussler edition launched earlier this summer. Unlike the Cussler model (which was limited to just 300 pieces) and played just a little bit more with the format of the Sub 300, this new Sub 300 Ti5 pretty much follows the recipe to the letter. Even the dimensions are identical to the standard steel Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm across, 13.4mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug (in other words, perfect). The dial and b...

Introducing - The New Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings Titanium to the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings 10h ago

Introducing - The New Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Brings Titanium to the Permanent Collection

Following the limited Clive Cussler edition introduced earlier this year, the Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 takes the well-known, historically inspired design and reworks it in Grade 5 titanium. This time, however, titanium is here to stay. Available in six classic Doxa colours, the new collection brings a lighter, more technical execution to one of the […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler Hodinkee
Armin Strom Co-Founders 10h ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.  Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.  Claude Greisler (left) and Serge Michel, the co-founders of Armin Strom. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on...

First Look - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection 12h ago

First Look - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection (Incl. Video)

Last year, the highly successful Aikon collection welcomed the next generation of integrated sports watches for Maurice Lacroix, with the Aikon-IC range. With the added “IC” referring to Innovative Craftsmanship, Maurice Lacroix created a playground for colours, materials and finishes, as well as complications, as seen in the Aikon-IC Master Triple Retrograde. The first series […]

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s elite watchmaking atelier 13h ago

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

The Gérald Genta brand was officially revived as an independent stand-alone marque by Louis Vuitton’s elite watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), in 2023. With a focus on high-end complications in limited quantities, the spirit of legendary designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) lives on. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a second iteration […]

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 13h ago

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39

What We Know Unveiling four new calibers in just 12 months, Girard-Perregaux has been rather busy lately. The La Chaux-de-Fonds-based marque celebrated a half-century of its Laureato model last year, with the introduction of the Laureato Fifty, including two-tone and Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon models. GP followed that up in 2026 with the Laureato Fifty becoming a permanent part of the model line and the introduction of 39 millimeter and 36mm models, showcasing the historic integrated bracelet watch design first introduced in 1975, as well as the signature bridges and grand feu enamel and precious metals dials at the heart of the brand's savoir-faire. Today, GP is introducing yet another Laureato, the Fifty Tourbillon micro-rotor in 39mm, aiming to bring together key design and mechanical elements defining Girard-Perregaux over its 235-year history.  The Fifty Tourbillon is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm in diameter and a svelte 10mm thick, with a matching integrated bracelet in the same metal offering 4mm of micro-adjust capability. Available in two Clous de Paris motif dial versions, a blue grand-feu enamel, or 18 karat rose gold, the watch features and celebrates classic Laureato and GP elements. The signature is the 'lyre-shaped' tourbillon at 6 o'clock supported by white gold, arrow-shaped bridges that draw on the brand's historic three-bridge design first produced by Constant Girard back in 1867.   The relatively restrained dial features lumed...

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis Hodinkee
Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 13h ago

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis

What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial.  We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo.  And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...

Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis Fratello
Breitling Reimagines 13h ago

Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis

Breitling honors the centennial of Miles Davis’s birth with the new Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis. This limited-edition Navitimer revives a host of vintage design cues to create a fitting tribute to the pioneering jazz musician. At its heart is the manually wound B09 caliber, recalling the hand-wound Navitimers of the 1960s […] Visit Breitling Reimagines A Jazz Classic With The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Miles Davis to read the full article.

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater Time+Tide
Oris swaps 16h ago

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater

L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials Time+Tide
Gerald Charles 17h ago

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials

The Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces unique hand-hammered Maillechort dials to the brand’s signature asymmetrical design. It is strictly limited to 25 pieces per colourway in Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The 38mm steel watch remains impressively thin at 7.99mm and is powered by the ultra-thin micro-rotor GCA 1000 movement. When it comes … Continued