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Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 3 EE Aug 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE

The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact.  The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches Worn & Wound
Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Aug 25, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches

When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...

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Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black Aug 23, 2023

Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44

Just a few short weeks ago, Vero introduced their officially-licensed Smokey the Bear watches that were inspired not only by the bear himself, but the era in which he came into existence. Today, we’re taking a look at the Smokey ’44. It’s inspired by the military watches of the 1940s, blended with a wildfire-themed color palette and a depiction of the friendly-but-stern bear right at 12 o’clock on the dial. This officially-licensed piece of Smokey swag is a great representation of both Vero as a brand and what Smokey the Bear stands for. Vero isn’t all talk either, being that 10% of all sales go directly back to the US Forest Service for conservation efforts. Let’s take a closer look, and remember - only you can prevent wildfires. $450 Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Case Stainless steel Movement Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black, textured Lume Green SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather + canvas Water Resistance 120 meters Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 12mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty 10 years Price $450 Case Clocking in at a comfortable 38mm, the case of the ’44 wears really well on my 6.75” wrist. There’s nothing overly notable about the case, and I say that in a good way. It’s a straightforward field watch with a sturdy case that inspires confidence that it’ll stand up to whatever you want to throw at it. With 120m of water resistance, the ’44 has more than enough protection from H2O for a swim and then some. I like how Vero c...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 There’s not Aug 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38

There’s not much left to say about the resurgence of the integrated bracelet sport watch and the many modern iterations we’ve seen on the theme. Some have history, many more don’t, and it certainly hasn’t gotten any easier to decipher the unique elements that make one stand out from another. I’d argue that this comes down to execution which, when paired with a historically relevant and idiosyncratic approach, tends to produce the best example of the genre. Though that’s not a rule, merely a subjective observation. One of the more peculiar examples of this is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a watch that was released smack in the middle of the ‘70s, designed by an Italian architect, and has experienced a slightly tumultuous lineage, all leading to this graceful 38mm reference with copper dial.  The Laureato has an interesting and varied history, yet is often absent from the discussion around great sport watches of the ‘70s. It wasn’t designed by Gerald Genta, like the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur watches of the same era, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a great origin story. Similarly to those other watches, the original design holds up remarkably well today, and Girard-Perregaux has preserved the core of the Laureato admirably, though some less than flattering eras to boot. $14900 [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Case Stainless Steel Movement GP03300 Dial Copper Clous de Paris Lume Super LumiNova Lens Sapphi...

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A Modern Take On A Classic Pilot’s Watch: Hands On With The Bremont Fury WatchAdvice
Bremont Fury If you’re after Aug 16, 2023

A Modern Take On A Classic Pilot’s Watch: Hands On With The Bremont Fury

If you’re after an aviation styled watch, that can go from the beach to the boardroom, then the Bremont Fury may just be the watch for you! We wrist tested it for a couple of weeks, and here’s what we thought… What We Love The textured dialThe aviation stylingPower reserve indicator at 6 o’clock What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dialLack of character in the strapUnsure of what category of watch to fit it in Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 As you may know from previous articles we’ve written on Bremont and its founders, Giles and Nick English, you no doubt be aware of their love of aviation, and the reasons for starting up Bremont over 20 years ago. If not, then you can get brought up to speed in our interview with Giles here. So it’s no surprise that when they were designing their H1 series of watches with the Bremont assembled movement (the first for the brand) that one of these pieces had to be a pilots inspired watch. The Bremont Fury in blue – a modern take on the classic pilot’s watch. The Fury was that piece in both a blue and black colourway, designed to be a contemporary take on the classic aviation watch. I first saw this piece in person when I caught up with Giles back in April, and liked what I saw. So needless to say it was one of their pieces that I immediately wanted to put on my wrist to see how it wore and looked as I went about my day to day. When asked which colour I wanted...

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Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

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Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 Aug 4, 2023

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349

Though much of Panerai’s current line up tilts towards more contemporary designs, its new launches for the year included a trio of Radiomir models that will please enthusiasts who appreciate Panerai’s historical watches: the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348, and the Radiomir California PAM01349. All three are equipped with the eight-day P.5000 movement, but are presented in a more wearable 45 mm case with an aged finish. Initial thoughts Panerai’s distinctive aesthetic has given birth to a few iconic designs, all of which have been iterated numerous times. Though the brand has been rightly criticised for repetitive renditions, it is inevitable given a history centred on just a handful of models. The Radiomir is one such iconic design, and it seemed to have fallen out of favour in recent years with the brand choosing instead of roll out many, many Luminor models. The Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01348 Consequently, it is gratifying to see the brand’s renewed emphasis on the Radiomir while infusing the design with fresh elements to make it more than a mere vintage remake. Furthermore, the new models offer enhanced wearability with a 45 mm case, in contrast to older references that mostly had a larger 47 mm case. As an aside, the three have “Brunito” cases with a simulated aged finish that is a bit of a gimmick but suits the design of the watches. I would have preferred a conventional mirrored finish as found on earlier Radiomir models, but the ...

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Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar Worn & Wound
Maen Jul 31, 2023

Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar

I have to start this review by being honest about something: I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about calendar watches. I just don’t.  When I think “calendar watch,” for some reason that I can’t quite put my finger on, my mind jumps to “perpetual calendar,” even though a watch with a simple date function is also technically a calendar watch as well. My curse, I guess, is that I immediately start thinking about a complication that is, for the most part, completely out of my reach. So when someone says there’s a cool new calendar watch to check out (I can count on one hand the number of times this has actually happened) I’m usually less interested than if someone were to, for example, suggest we go out and get dumplings at the Chinese restaurant down the street, or go see Oppenheimer for a second time, or some combination of those two things.  The other problem, because I tend to associate the very idea of calendar watches with the most complex watches in production, is that when talk turns to calendars, I think of very expensive service costs. A local watch friend once owned a vintage triple calendar made by one of the most respected and admired Swiss brands. It broke, and the bill was, how can I put it this…kind of brutal. Again, not something I want in my life.  This line of thinking, of course, is deeply unfair, and a bias that I freely admit and am trying to break out of. A new watch from MAEN, a Swedish brand with a Dutch name, reminded me rece...

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Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches Worn & Wound
Seiko Kine Jul 28, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches

Sequent is a Swiss smartwatch brand on a mission. What’s that mission? Well, simply put, it’s to make a smartwatch that watch fans will actually like. No, it doesn’t say that on their website, but after spending some time with two of their models, the Supercharger and the Elektron, that’s the conclusion I’ve come to. You see, these aren’t your typical digital smartwatches, which, let’s face it, unless they come from one of a couple of brands, no one is wearing. Rather, these are analog smartwatches that pair with an app to add some, but not too many, smart features to an otherwise fairly traditional design. To make things even better, they’re automatic, in a manner of speaking. $750 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches Case Steel or Titanium Movement Self-Winding Electronic Dial Solid of Transparent Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Various Water Resistance 50m Dimensions 42 x 46.6mm Thickness 14.2mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Buttons Only Warranty Yes Price $750 The two watches I tried both feature Sequent’s “in-house” movement, which charges via motion. Through the case back, you’ll clearly see a rotor, which happens to be made of tungsten, spinning around. However, that’s where the similarities to a typical mechanical movement stop. The rotor spins, but it doesn’t wind anything, rather it generates electricity via magnetic fields and science. This energy is stored and powers the electronics. It’s a bit like a Seiko Kine...

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Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

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Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jul 24, 2023

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution

Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...

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Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Launched Jul 14, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

Launched in 1968 as a chronograph for sailors, the Skipper ref. 7754 has long been one of the more idiosyncratic models created by Heuer, novel and rare enough to be sought after by Heuer aficionados. Now the brand has revived the model in a gently modernised format with the TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper. Based on the Carrera “Glassbox” introduced in March, the new watch retains the regatta-inspired aesthetic of its predecessor but is very much its own watch. Initial thoughts  While not nearly as well as known as its auto racing-inspired stablemates like the Autavia and Monaco, the Skipper is very much in keeping with Heuer’s historical speciality of functional chronographs conceived for professional sportspeople. Despite being a fairly niche model, the vintage Skipper is memorable thanks to a distinctive aesthetic, which has been smartly transplanted into the new Skipper. The new Skipper has a vintage-inspired aesthetic but is a clearly a modern watch, demonstrating TAG Heuer’s ability to successfully reimagine its historical models. It retains the key design elements that made the original memorable, namely the coloured sub-dials and orange seconds hand. But the new model isn’t a remake, but is essentially a variant of the Carrera Glassbox. As a result, it shares the appeal of the Glassbox, including the case styling and in-house movement. But like the Glassbox, the Skipper feels a little thick at just under 14 mm high, a consequence of the movement inside. Notab...

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Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic! WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – Jul 12, 2023

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic!

Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...

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