Time+Tide
The complete calendar alternatives to the Rolex Perpetual Padellone
When you need to know the day, date, month, and moon phase in one glance, these are the watches to reach for.
Results for Windup Watch Fair New York
36,015 articles · 307 videos found · page 900 of 1211
Time+Tide
WristBuzz
The Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival Is Back, and It Brought Friends
New dial colors signal that one of Switzerland's oldest brands is serious about its second act
SJX Watches
Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter
At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaker, three years after a fateful meeting between Vianney Halter and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter Both describe their encounter – seemingly improbable at first – as more natural than we might expect. It resulted in a watch they both describe as “half Octo, half Vianney”. Yet this was not simply a matter of grafting one aesthetic onto another; the collaboration went deeper. Two separate conversations bring the same themes into focus: human connection, constraint as a creative stimulus and, above all, the opportunity to learn from one another. Vianney Halter (left) with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Image – Bulgari From Bulgari’s perspective, Mr Stigliani describes the Octo Finissimo as a model whose identity had become strong enough to withstand a much deeper transformation – and a manufacture challenged by the ideas of an independent watchmaker. Mr Halter, meanwhile, has long regarded collaboration as a means of moving beyond the boundaries and limitations of his own workshop – provided that the human relationship comes before the project. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Fabrizio, how did the idea of working with Vianney Halter come about? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (FBS): I’ve always been in love with the Antiqua. We went to see Vi...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build
I had heard the name but was not aware of the unforgettable spelling until I got a sample of my first BA111OD watch, the latest addition to the brand’s catalog: the Chapter 7 Skeleton. While BA111OD traces its roots back deep into the history of watchmaking, its modern incarnation has taken shape over the past seven years with several different chapters. One of the biggest evolutions we have seen in the brand’s contemporary catalog is in its movements. While early chapters got flack for keeping costs accessible with Chinese calibers, Chapter 3 incorporated the first Swiss caliber into the Swiss-based Maison’s lineup in 2022. The brand’s next installment, Chapter 4, continued to build on this trajectory with the BA111OD caliber BA.01. This movement was notably developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory whose La Chaux de Fonds workshop has given rise to movements for brands across the industry, from Louis Erard to Yema. Then, BA111OD’s Chapter 5 went on to introduce the Maison’s first automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Valjoux 7750. Next, Chapter Delta entered the lineup with a major shakeup thanks to another movement co-created with Olivier Mory, this time featuring a unique hypocycloidal mechanism. Instead of a standard central rotating hand, a satellite hour wheel rolls around a fixed central wheel. This creates a deltoid path where the hour dot naturally slows down and speeds up during its rotation cycle. Here, traditional circular minutes c...
WristBuzz
Vacheron Constantin Marks 30 Years of the Overseas with a Limited Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold
A new azure dial and an 18K white gold case breathe fresh life into one of the thinnest full perpetual calendars in production
Hodinkee
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition
What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)
What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...
Time+Tide
Breguet takes the Marine 5517 and 5527 into deeper waters with fresh guilloché dials
Breguet refreshes the Marine 5517 and flyback Chronographe 5527 with new hand-guilloché dials in white gold, rose gold and titanium.
Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Updates Marine Collection With More Nautical Style
Breguet numerals and a new guilloché pattern give the Marine collection a closer connection to the brand’s past.More
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Newly Revamped Breguet Marine 5517 Time-and-Date And 5527 Chronograph
What We Know A refresh of Breguet's Marine line, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet's history of marine chronometers and scientific instruments, has been coming for some time now. If you've been following the sometimes sweeping, sometimes subtle, almost always welcome changes to Breguet's catalog over the last few years (and especially last year during the brand's year-long 250th fête), you knew the Marine was one of the few stones left unturned. While the Experimentale 1 (a groundbreaking achievement) launched a new design language for the Marine last year, today's refresh is more subtle. The first thing that you probably will notice is that the eponymous "Breguet" numerals now replace the Roman ones on the previous models. But wait. There's more. Previous versions of both models had either soleil finishing centered around the boxed brand name (and number) or a larger, irregular wave guilloché, depending on the execution. In both new models, the watches now feature the new, finer "Quai de l'Horloge" guilloché pattern launched to honor the brand's 250th Anniversary last year, with a circular brushed hour track. Rather than just doing the same dial treatment for each case material, regardless of the complication, the brand has a mix of dials ranging from blue (in different shades) to grey and black. In general, the case material matches the tone of the hands, but there is an exception. The cases and movements have remained largely the same, 42.3mm by 13.9mm with a 50.7m...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore
Audemars Piguet is hosting a Padel Pop-Up Club starting September 25, marking the brand’s first local event tied to its involvement in the sport. Held in the School Hall of New Bahru, a fashionable “lifestyle destination”, the event will combine padel sessions with a courtside lounge, welcoming experienced players and newcomers. Padel, like its American counterpart pickleball, is a fast-growing racquet sport that blends elements of tennis and squash. Usually played in doubles, the sport is synonymous with the social atmosphere that surrounds it. Recognising this, Audemars Piguet is hosting a courtside lounge to welcome those who are more interested in the social scene than scoring points on the court. Audemars Piguet formally got involved with padel back in May, announcing a global partnership as official timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour, alongside sponsorship of Agustín Tapia, one of the sport’s top players. The tour agreement includes courtside clocks and branding at tournaments. While major sports like tennis, golf, and Formula 1 are saturated with watch brand partnerships, emerging sports like padel represent something of a Greenfield opportunity, especially with a younger audience. But that’s changing as brands adapt the well-established sponsorship playbook to the new domain. Earlier this year, Rolex added Spanish padel star Arturo Coello to its circle of celebrities, and Frederique Constant became the official watch partner of the Pro Pa...
Monochrome
First Look - Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 30 Years of Overseas Special Edition Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
The story of the Overseas begins in 1977 with the sporty-chic integrated 222, Vacheron Constantin’s bold response to a new generation of luxury sports watches represented by the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Inheriting certain traits of the 222 but amplified and beefed up, the first-generation Overseas debuted in 1996. Now in its third phase, […]
WristBuzz
Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII 100 Years: Stone Dials and a Serious Movement Upgrade
Seven new dial variations, a more capable caliber, and a centenary worth celebrating, the F77 MKII is Nivada's boldest statement yet
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic
IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...
Monochrome
First Look - Frederique Constant x French Foreign Legion, Two Limited Editions to Celebrate the Elite Unit
Founded in Geneva in 1988, Frederique Constant is now a globally respected name in watchmaking, offering classic designs at reasonable prices, with a growing portfolio of complications developed and assembled at its Plan-les-Ouates manufacture. Part of the Citizen Group since 2016, the brand was created by Peter Stas, who left his native Netherlands for Switzerland, […]
Hodinkee
Staff Picks: The Watches We Wore This Summer
Summer is over. Okay, maybe not quite — there's still some hot weather to be wrung out over the next few weeks (although I have noticed more than a few sweaters being broken out around the Hodinkee office this week). Labor Day has come and gone, school has started, our white pants are put away for the season, and the carefree, relaxed days of summer are now largely behind us. With that in mind, I asked (read: pestered) a handful of my colleagues to find out what watches they had on their wrists this summer, and the answers didn't disappoint. DWC Terra Titanium [Mark Kauzlarich] If there's something you should know about a lot of us on the Hodinkee edit team, it's that we love a good bit. So, after I came out of anesthesia from my spinal fusion earlier this summer, I decided to buy a watch to suit the moment. Look, I'm not saying that James Stacey gatekept this from me, but when I saw the Delhi Watch Company Terra on his Instagram, I felt left out. Turns out, I'm not as chronically on "watch internet" as I should be, apparently, because everyone over in The Grey NATO-land was talking about this super cool, $47 titanium quartz-powered watch out of India, and I missed out. I missed out on all THIRTY THOUSAND of them, I might add (shows how little I'm in the loop), and people were charging an arm and a leg to get one. Image, James Stacey (Yes, he has one too) Until the bit came around, that is. I got curious after my surgery and dug through my surgical notes for the info abo...
Monochrome
First Look - The Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table “The Metamorph Merlin”
In 2005, Roger Dubuis launched the Excalibur, an imposing 45mm watch that established many of the key aesthetic traits and mechanical audacity that characterise the “hyper horology” the brand practises today. The Knights of the Round Table collection, introduced in 2013, was conceived as a celebration of métiers d’art and took the Arthurian legend to […]
Deployant
Just released: H. Moser Off-Grid | Hands-on and Live Photographs
H. Moser stirs up the pot once again with a watch with a stunning looking entry level alternative. Hands-on Comprehensive Review of the Off-Grid.
Fratello
Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
Icons are icons for a reason. Some watches deserve the moniker, no question about it. But quite often, an icon casts a long shadow on other interesting timepieces in a brand’s catalog. The original Genta-designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has always overshadowed the Royal Oak Offshore. Due to the Offshore’s large size, bold styling, and […] Visit Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References — Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg
This weekend’s results at Sotheby’s Hong Kong typify contemporary interest in independent watchmaking, and in special editions of series-produced watches. In contrast, the Sandberg Collection, assembled by former HSBC chairman Baron Michael Sandberg, paints a picture of another era of watch collecting, when elaborately decorated pocket watches and exotic automata ruled the auction room. The latest chapter in our Complicated Collectors series explores some of the most emblematic pieces of this extraordinary collection. Before it was dispersed at Antiquorum in 2001, the Sandberg Collection ranked among the most ambitious private assemblies of horological art formed in the latter half of the 20th century. Comprising over 400 timepieces, it reflected sustained engagement with both the mechanical and symbolic dimensions of watchmaking. Lord Sandberg, in his office in Hong Kong. Image – South China Morning Post The holdings spanned time and geography, from Geneva enamels and French musical complications to English automata and Islamic and Chinese adaptations, alongside early German and English forms, yet they build a coherent whole. Instead of building around a single school or brand, Sandberg assembled a collection participating in a larger conversation: between European and Oriental markets, between religious and secular symbolism, and between utility and ornament. Lord Sandberg’s long residence in Hong Kong likely shaped both his access and his perspective. Chinese...
Time+Tide
Simplicity is best with the Jaeger-LeCoultre time and date Master Control Chronometre
Of the three new models released at Watches and Wonders, I believe there is more joy to be found in the simplest of them.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re pitting two affordable daily wearers against each other. They represent different sides of the watchmaking world, with one hailing from Switzerland and the other from Japan. But both brands have gained a lot of respect from watch enthusiasts […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Czapek Promenade L'Écume des Jours: A Cult Novel Gets a Métiers d'Art Dial
Czapek's compact dress watch gets a literary twist, honoring Boris Vian's L'Écume des Jours with a handcrafted dial that's hard to ignore.
WristBuzz
Ressence Type 9 Jules Wittock: A Solvable Maze Milled Into Titanium
The latest Art Watch from Ressence pairs its orbital dial with a hand-drawn maze by Belgian artist Jules Wittock, and yes, it actually works as a puzzle.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Blancpain Celebrates The 70th Anniversary Of The Ladybird Collection With The Mini "Lady B" Revival
What We Know In 1932, a 36-year-old woman took a massive gamble early in her career at Blancpain. Betty Fiechter, who had worked for the brand since she was 16, faced a dilemma after the sudden death of the brand's owner, Frederic-Emile Blancpain. Together with commercial director Andre Leal, she helped secure loans to buy the company, even navigating the need to rename the manufacture because the Swiss government prevented anyone but someone with that name from using Blancpain. Fiechter would eventually mentor her nephew, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, and together they would inaugurate two of the brand's most successful icons: the Fifty Fathoms and the Ladybird. The original Ladybird Bullet The launch of the Ladybird in 1956 was a big deal, not just because a woman led a manufacturer in an era when women couldn't even vote in Switzerland. Inside the original Ladybird "Bullet" was the R55, the smallest round mechanical movement, and one with extra durability, with a fifth wheel to limit the force on the escapement and a shock protector on the balance wheel. It remains the smallest round mechanical movement to this day. To honor that watch, Fiechter, and the 70th anniversary of the Ladybird, Blancpain is releasing a new Lady B (for bullet, I'm sure, but also Betty and, according to the brand, bijou or "jewel") with very tiny dimensions. The watch measures a tiny 19mm by 13.2mm in either stainless steel or 18k red gold, with a total volume of only 2.9 cm³. Despite its size, it has...
Hodinkee
Business News: FHH Teams With GIA's School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts
The Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) struck a strategic academic collaboration agreement with the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and its School of Gemology and Jewelry Arts, aiming to bring more watch industry knowledge, training, and certification to a wider audience. The agreement will have the two non-profit organizations collaborate on educational initiatives, certification, and instruction, using the GIA's international physical and online infrastructure. Founded in 1931 with campus, laboratory, and research center locations ranging from the U.S. and the U.K. to Africa and Asia, from Bangkok to India, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, the GIA has trained more than 200,000 professionals in jewelry and gems. Johanna Levy, (left) Vice President, Communications & Corporate Affairs, Gemological Institute of America, Aurélie Streit, Vice President of the FHH.Image Courtesy FHH The collaboration could significantly expand the FHH mandate to provide watchmaking, culture, and industry knowledge to more industry professionals, collectors, and consumers, while broadening the GIA's educational scope for professionals in this closely linked sector. "For GIA students and alumni, it's such a great opportunity to be able to access a completely new set of knowledge with watchmaking," Johanna Levy, vice-president of the ESG Programs at the GIA, said in an interview. "There is a desire to learn more, to learn more craft, to learn more in person. So it's really not only to equip our st...
Monochrome
First Look - Kollokium Closes the Projekt 01 Chapter with the Luminous Variant H
With the Projekt 01 Variant H, Kollokium puts an end to its first chapter, the watch that marked the independent platform’s debut. Since its introduction in 2023, the Projekt 01 has been offered in several iterations, with different materials and colours. Variant H returns to the black-dial aesthetic of the earliest editions, with the more […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder
This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation. An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, then as chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024. Julien Tornare.Image: Courtesy Hublot Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades and the spirit reflected in the brand's unconventional, outspoken ambassadors. He also addresses the marque's critics, arguing that the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified. He also discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time through a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand. There's plenty o...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons
Hublot has just unveiled the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons, its latest — and arguably most striking — collaboration with a contemporary artist. Crafted from anodised aluminium, the case of the watch is delicately machined to almost perfectly replicate the creased, metallic look of a mylar balloon. The plump inflated look extends to the dial and strap, and the watch can be had in three different colours — red, blue, and silver — each of which is limited to 200 pieces. The Balloon Dog is powered by the HUB1710, an upmarket execution of the in-group Zenith Elite platform. Initial thoughts Jeff Koons is likely one of the few contemporary artists with mainstream name recognition outside the world of fine art. While he is arguably best known for his large-scale sculptures, including the Balloon Dog referenced by his collaboration with Hublot, he has had a prolific career and worked in numerous mediums. But it is his ability to replicate the tight, creased look of inflated latex and mylar in materials like stainless steel and aluminium that have cemented his status in the world of contemporary art. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog taps exactly this expertise, crafted in anodised aluminium with a rounded, puffy form that transforms the sharp, angular Hublot style into something more soft and playful. The result is immediately recognisable thanks to the thoughtfulness of the execution. The familiar Hublot details are present, but have been carefully machined to loo...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog By Jeff Koons
Hublot is no stranger to opening its doors to outside creativity, with some of its most memorable (and often infamous) releases of the past few years in collaborations with artists and designers—Takashi Murakami, Daniel Arsham, and Samuel Ross, to name a few. Late last week, the brand dropped the news that the next big name in line for a collaboration would be the contemporary American artist Jeff Koons, most widely known for his series of bright, shiny balloon dog sculptures in a whole range of colors. Image courtesy of Hublot Balloon Dog (Orange) - Image courtesy of Christie's Rabbit - Image courtesy of Christie's Koons' name has reached a certain level of infamy and popularity alike in the art world, as the world's most expensive living artist today. His Balloon Dog (Orange) piece hammered at Christie's in 2013 for a whopping $58.4 million dollars, breaking auction records for an artwork by a living artist. Then, in 2019, his 1986 Rabbit piece shattered that result, selling for more than $91 million and taking the title. To this day, both pieces remain among the top ten most expensive artworks by living artists. Naturally, Koons faces criticism from critics and the wider public, from the overt commercialism and kitchiness of the art to the factory-style production methods he employs. Regardless, it's impossible to deny how iconic and recognizable the Balloon Dog series is worldwide. With that iconic look and a touch of infamy, the Balloon Dog feels like the perfect su...