Deployant
Review: The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar
Glashütte Original introduces its first ever annual calendar wristwatch, the PanoMaticCalendar, which features a retrograde month display.
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Deployant
Glashütte Original introduces its first ever annual calendar wristwatch, the PanoMaticCalendar, which features a retrograde month display.
Time+Tide
We chat with Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla, and find out exactly how the PRX Chronograph came to be.The post A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...
Time+Tide
First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s always an exciting time when a company introduces a brand new model and a brand new movement at the same time, and it’s no different when it comes to the Fortis Stratoliner S-41. The WERK 17 movement, a collaborative effort between Fortis and La Joux-Perret, was space-tested before the release of the Stratoliner, which … ContinuedThe post The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 packs space-age looks and an important new movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
There's nothing too baggy or too colorful for this second installment of Lookbook, which aims to bring the world of fashion and horology together.
Quill & Pad
For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.
Revolution
Revolution Curates is a special series where we pick watches which we think are horologically significant and incredibly cool, and offer them for sale to the community. In this first video, Wei and Jeremiah introduce three collectable pieces from the master of shaped watches and a brand close to their hearts, Cartier.
Quill & Pad
Jan Lidmaňský interviewed Emmanuel Breguet, vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet. He chatted with this direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet about fakes in the time of Breguet, which watch is still missing from the Breguet Museum’s collection, how many pieces the company has acquired at auction over the last 20 years, and much more.
Time+Tide
Casio Edifice is a brand we’ve been taken a closer look at over the past couple of months, out of intrigue for their price-to-performance ratio. The Edifice collection as a whole has something for everyone – from simple three-handers to solar pieces with busy dials, the latter of which I spent (nearly) a week with. … ContinuedThe post What’s it like to wear a Casio Edifice for a week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
In which I sit down with TAG Heuer's newest ambassador Jacob Elordi and debate the origins of a watch nickname.
Deployant
The 1970s were a period of upheaval and turmoil for the mechanical watchmaking industry. This was the time of the “quartz crisis” during which the advent of quartz watches, with its superior accuracy at a much lower cost, had posed an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. The quartz crisis led to a majorRead More
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Hodinkee
NPR comes through with a report about a guy making watches that don't tell time – but do well on social media.
Time+Tide
For six months, the Doxa SUB 600T Pacific has been by my side. Which is more than enough time to ask myself, should it still be there.The post Six months in, is the Doxa SUB 600T Pacific still right for me? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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After our initial overview of an all-encompassing Casio Edifice collection, we thought we’d take a closer look at what they do best – pieces packed with features and functionality. Through clever integrations of their many quirks, they each have the ability to pair with your phone via Bluetooth, which will bring out the best of … ContinuedThe post Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Luke here – just popping into Zach’s Wind Down to tell you about a gravity-defying weekend in Paris with Mido. Twenty-seven metres doesn’t sound that high. But as I edged out onto the diving platform towering over the Seine, I felt a lurching sense of dread in the pit of my stomach. The platform was about … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Cliff diving with Mido in Paris, AP artwork and Greubel gorgeousness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...
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Time+Tide
Hey Everyone, It’s Ricardo and I’m jumping into the Friday Wind Down today. This week, things died down a bit after the all-out blitz of releases we saw prior. Which in turn opened my schedule up to finally experience what some have called a trip to watch Mecca. And that is the recently opened AP … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Mr McUtchen, a.k.a McSteamy, continues to leave me green with envy stateside. His latest escapades abroad include having an oceanside chat with actor Patrick Dempsey on all things TAG Heuer in Monaco for the Grand Prix – which he got to enjoy in a private box as well. It’s good to be the king… As … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...
Time+Tide
The TAG Heuer Monaco is an irrefutable classic. Which is why it is one of the select references we tackled in our series The Icons. Born in 1969, the Monaco changed the game as it was the first automatic, square and water-resistant chronograph. The watch gained further notoriety on the wrist of Steve McQueen in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer pays tribute to the Monaco “Dark Lord” with a new Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...
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