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New: Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Saxon watchmaking and their new dial manufacture in the city with a new PanoLunaTourbillon.
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Time+Tide
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon
GO celebrates a milestone for German watchmaking (plus its new dial manufacture) with a heavy hitting flying tourbillon.The post Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer
The 1972 catalog lists it as the Gallet Maritimer, although it says Yachting Timer on the dial. You choose. The new designation is still connected to water use…well, sort of. I hereby announce with all due respect that I turned it into my Gallet Soft-Boiled Egg Timer. And I love it! I will start with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Seiko is off to the races with a limited, lilac Speedtimer Solar for the World Athletics Championships
A solar chronograph with a lovely purple dial. The post Seiko is off to the races with a limited, lilac Speedtimer Solar for the World Athletics Championships appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The Philippe Dufour Simplicity
As regular readers know, the idea of the Behind the Lens series is to present great watches as seen from a variety of visual perspectives. Mostly, I feature watches on loan from my generous friends, but this time let’s look at a piece that I am very fortunate to have in my own collection: the legendary Simplicity by Philippe Dufour in a 37 mm white gold case with white lacquer dial.
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Duel For The Best Everyday Luxury Watch ($2000 to $4000) - Rolex DateJust Vs Tudor Prince Date-Day
Monochrome
First Look – The New Peren Regia Lunar Eclipse Dark
The latest Peren Regia LE Dark follows recent models like the Regia X Automatic 39 Diver, but with a stripped-down aesthetic that’s very monochromatic and a bit futuristic. The diving bezel is sterile save for a white circle at 12 o’clock, and the white dial elements seem to almost float over the depths of the […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Is Fun On the Wrist!
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Grand Seiko in Great Condition, and an Uncommon Watch from Texas Instruments
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Citizen Here is a brilliant vintage Citizen. The stainless steel case is unpolished with nice sharp edges on the bezel and killer lugs. The clean white dial has two vertical silver stripes that give it a really sporty look. Simple applied steel baton markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. Overall a classic looking Japanese sport/dress watch. The watch comes on a steel Jubilee-style bracelet that fits the look, but is not original to the watch. The crown is signed as it should be. No movement picture but it runs well per the seller. View auction here Texas Instruments Starburst Now this one is interesting! A vintage Texas Instruments Starburst digital watch that has an analog style display. The square case is gold plated, as is the integrated bracelet. The watch looks almost new-old-stock, and is in stellar condition with no wear. The dial has a gold radial starburst pattern, with a round digital display in the middle. It has LCD hands that show the time, as well as a day/date function. Really a trippy and unique vintage LCD watch that I haven’t seen before. The watch comes with the original box as well as the original instruction booklet. Works well per the seller, ...
Fratello
Introducing: The Single-Edition Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface
This little introduction article is going to leave you wanting more. No, I don’t mean the watch itself, the most impressive and one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface. I mean more pictures of this highly complicated piece of Haute Horlogerie with its open dial, subtle use of color, and the impressive […] Visit Introducing: The Single-Edition Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.
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Can you get a good deal on a watch buying from a pawn shop?
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
Quill & Pad
Rolex Milgauss Review – The Most Underrated Rolex?
The Rolex Milgauss, despite being one of the longest-standing offerings by Rolex, remains one of Rolex's more under-appreciated models. Having owned a black dial 116400GV since 2016, Raman Kalra shares his thoughts on why it's worth your consideration.
Fratello
The Streetworthy Yema × Seconde/Seconde/ Yachtingraff Is Coming To A Port Near You
Since the 1960s, the Yema Yachtingraf has always been a charming and colorful chronograph, especially with its regatta-style “big-eye” countdown sub-dial. If I told you the new version features a black dial, that might even sound a bit boring if you already know the white-turquoise-yellow and blue-red-white versions that are already available. However, did I […] Visit The Streetworthy Yema × Seconde/Seconde/ Yachtingraff Is Coming To A Port Near You to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Maen Introduces a Smaller Version of their Manhattan Ultra-Thin
Maen has announced a new version of their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch, the 37 Ultra-Thin. This reference fills out the Manhattan collection, which also consists of watches with automatic movements in both 40mm and 37mm sizes, as well as ultra-thin (manually wound) watches in 39mm and, as of today, the smaller 37mm footprint. Maen has taken the somewhat unusual approach with this release of introducing a brand new dial texture along with it, as opposed to a more standard dial execution. I reviewed the first iteration of Maen’s ultra-thin last year and was impressed with the thin wearing experience and the solid built quality of the case and bracelet. That’s really the key in ultra-thin watches, I think. If you feel like the watch is going to snap in half and break at the bend of a wrist, it really saps the charm out of the whole experience. This is why the impossibly, wafer thin executions of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo are so impressive, and also confounding. They appear to defy the laws of physics, but on the wrist, they still feel solid, leaving the impression they can be worn confidently doing normal day-to-day things, for the most part. The Manhattan is not on the same level horologically speaking as the Octo, of course, but they operate under similar principles and have to defy similar concerns. I haven’t tested out the new 37mm version of Maen’s ultra-thin Manhattan, but I have spent time with every other iteration of the Manhattan, ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Return of the Oris Aquis Date Relief, with Textured Bezel
The latest Oris Aquis Date Relief is a reintroduction of the model with new dial and strap colours and the always cool steel bezel in relief. The Aquis Date Cherry (and others) in 43.5mm from a few years ago is very similar, but this follows the recent Aquis redesign and brings a new strap and […]
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Duel Of The Luxury Automatic Divers - Rolex Submariner Vs Tudor Black Bay Red (116610LN & 79220R)
Fratello
The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer
In its original form, the Amida Digitrend is already quite an impressive wristwatch. Its unusual shape and size make it the perfect conversation starter. And that’s not even considering the dial with the sapphire prism and the jump-hour module behind it. Well, get ready for an even bolder iteration because here’s the new Amida Digitrend […] Visit The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary
Ressence is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its retailer in the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, in distinctly granular manner with the quirky, sand-filled Type 9 S75. A limited edition of only 20 pieces, the S75 is based on the recently introduced Type 9, the brand’s minimalist, entry-level model. The dial is coated with sand sourced from the seven Emirates that make up the desert country in the Arabian peninsula. Initial Thoughts Typically, sand, or any sort of grit for that matter, in watches is undesirable, but Ressence is challenging that perception. The hands do not cut through the sand as it may first appear. Instead, the sand is suspended in a clear adhesive, bonding it to the titanium discs that show the time. This might be somewhat disappointing for those who hoped that Ressence had overcome the physics of materials, but perfectly logical. Filling the watch with loose sand would create a more dynamic dial, it’d also require enormous torque to push through. Since sand is a coarse and rough natural abrasive that gets everywhere, it’d likely destroy the module anyway. Past Seddiqi editions by other brands did actually have loose sand within the case, but contained within a sealed module entirely separate from the movement and dial. While the sand might seem like a gimmick on the face of it, the granular surface adds a different, earthy, and even organic, texture to the traditional Ressence aesthetic of sleek, smooth, and mechanical. Moreover, cl...
SJX Watches
Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition
The Kudoke 2 SHH Edition celebrates 20 years of the independent brand founded by husband-and-wife Stefan and Ev Kudoke. A run of 20 pieces exclusive to Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the edition sports the “flakes” dial finish in a first for the Kudoke 2, which features a distinctive day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Initial Thoughts Stefan Kudoke was only in his mid-twenties when he founded his eponymous brand. Kudoke’s focus on detailed, graphic hand engraving has helped the brand differentiate itself as more independents, often focusing on movement finishing and guilloche, have sprung up over the years. While the SHH Edition comes at a considerable premium to the regular production Kudoke 2, it’s easily justified by the champagne rosé dial hand engraved with a “flakes” finish. When considering both the quality and quantity of engraving, the SHH Edition maintains the competitive pricing Kudoke is known for. Dial The SHH Edition brings the “flakes” pattern dial, first launched on the Kudoke 3, to the Kudoke 2 for the first time. The dial surface is covered with hundreds of tiny divots resembling flakes, which give the dial a sparkly finish. Each “flake” is painstakingly free-hand engraved, leaving no two dials exactly alike. Similar care is given to the rotating 24-hour disk at 12 o’clock, which has a deeply engraved, rose-gold plated sun on one half, and on the other half, a moon and stars motif that’s engraved and lumed in blue. T...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Unveil a Third Round of their “Time Eater” Collaboration
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, the only Russian member of the AHCI, have teamed up once again for a new batch of their hit “Time Eater” collaboration. It’s been about two years since their first collaboration, which was an immediate hit for both parties and sold out quickly. A follow up limited edition came a few months later, this one much darker in tone, both in terms of the dial and case, and also the mood of the piece- that bloodshot eye really leaves an impression. For their third release, Chaykin and Louis Erard have returned to their original idea, offering a pair of watches that fans of the original who might have missed out will likely be quite interested in taking a look at when they go on sale in a few days. The fact that this collaboration exists at all is one of the things we like most about Louis Erard as a brand. They’ve really found a niche in developing limited edition projects with interesting collaborators both in and outside of the watch industry. A watchmaker like Konstantin Chaykin, who has risen to prominence in recent years with his “Wristmons” series of watches, makes watches that are likely out of reach for most collectors. But through Louis Erard, Chaykin, along with watchmakers like Stefan Kudoke and Vianney Halter, brings his design ethos down to earth, making it approachable to enthusiasts who admire his work but would never be able to spend tens of thousands on a single piece. Together with Louis Erard, Chaykin has essentia...
Time+Tide
Ressence celebrates Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a literally sandy Type 9
Real sand from all the seven Emirates features on the dial of the new Ressence Type 9, celebrating 75 years of Seddiqi.The post Ressence celebrates Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary with a literally sandy Type 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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5 Ways How Anyone Can Become A Better Gentleman - What Most Life & Style Blogs Don't Tell You!
SJX Watches
Louis Erard & Konstantin Chaykin Return with “Time Eater” III
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
SJX Watches
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is Summer Ready
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay 54 Review
Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Farer Refreshes Its Aqua Compressor Line With Three New Designs
A new movement and upgraded lume complement new dial designs.
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