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Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

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Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds May 2, 2025

Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection

In the year and three months since they reintroduced the El Primero Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Zenith has been cooking up new references and colorways for the crowd-favorite complication. Next in this wave is the new 18k Rose Gold & Black model, wrapped in the ever-popular material and boasting the same sportiness mixed with refinement that the Triple Calendar has become known for.  Housed in a 38mm case (46mm lug-to-lug) and sharing proportions with previous stainless steel models, the new Rose Gold variant also features hour markers, subdials, and hands in the material-and coated in SuperLuminova SLN C1- to contrast the sleek black of the dial. A matching black calfskin leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp completes the look, giving the Chronomaster a profile that oscillates between elegant and intimidating.  Inside, the new Chronomaster features the same El Primero 3610 movement with automatic column-wheel chronograph functionality. The complete calendar and moonphase indications both lend the dial a swath of functionality and add aesthetic flavor. Also carried over from previous models is the 60-hour power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance, placing the Chronomaster solidly in the dress-to-sport watch camp.  A new colorway and case material for an iconic and consistently popular line of watches is always exciting, and Zenith has delivered with this new (and familiar) Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar reference. Whether or not rose ...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time Fratello
Rolex Watches May 1, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time

Regardless of your opinion on the brand, there’s bound to be a Rolex out there for just about anyone. The brand’s back catalog is vast and full of brilliant references. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re each picking three of our all-time favorites. Nacho, Thomas, and Lex have done some research, but little to no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Rolex Watches Of All Time to read the full article.

The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 30, 2025

The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025

Writing and talking about watches is a lot of fun, but there are times when it’s a chore. Penning today’s article exemplifies the kind of “work” I enjoy. You see, Parmigiani is one of my favorite brands, hands down, and I’m always up for covering a new release. Today, I’ll go several steps better than […] Visit The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G Apr 30, 2025

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Goes Apr 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique

After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology.  The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type.  The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back.  An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 27000M Complicated Desk Apr 30, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock

Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces Worn & Wound
Apr 29, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces

James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn Fratello
Apr 27, 2025

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn

Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm […] Visit Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn to read the full article.

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Apr 24, 2025

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators

In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and  produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side.  Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators.  They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...

Introducing – The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71 SRPL73 Apr 24, 2025

Introducing – The New Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL71, SRPL73, and SRPL75

The Seiko Presage Style60s collection has become a classic for the Japanese watchmaker. Inspired by the Crown Chronograph of 1964, even though we’re talking about time-and-date or GMT models in general, this collection brings vintage flair and casual style at reasonable prices. Recently, Seiko released a pair of new models – SRPL07 and SRPL09 – […]

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock Fratello
Apr 24, 2025

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock

I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition Fratello
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Apr 23, 2025

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition

Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanics. Put simply, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 Loco proves that higher-end watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price point. I spent a week with the new C12 Loco in its striking […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition to read the full article.

Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches Fratello
Studio Underd0g Apr 23, 2025

Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches

Studio Underd0g continues to defy conventions with two new colorful additions to its 01Series chronograph range. The Av0cado and Guacam0le continue the playful mantra of Studio Underd0g by infusing color combinations to invoke various types of food. Adding these two style options may seem a bit old hat for Studio Underd0g since it has evolved […] Visit Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches to read the full article.

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Marine Star Heritage Quartz Apr 22, 2025

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep

Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.

The Great Versatility Of The Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated By Its Two Latest Models Fratello
Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated Apr 22, 2025

The Great Versatility Of The Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated By Its Two Latest Models

Chopard had another great showing at Watches and Wonders this year. The brand garnered much praise with the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV series. It’s another brilliant addition to Chopard’s lineup that will draw in excited buyers for the two new models as well as spark many enthusiasts to explore the past L.U.C Quattro collections. This […] Visit The Great Versatility Of The Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated By Its Two Latest Models to read the full article.

Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko Worn & Wound
Rado 3.50 inches It goes Apr 21, 2025

Hands-On: a Few Weeks with the James Brand Elko

For many pocket-dumping EDCers, the knife has pride of place in one’s kit. Bags are commonly rotated depending on the use-case. You likely wouldn’t bring a hiking rucksack to the office. Watches, too, are usually swapped out daily (and for our crowd… maybe more). However, a good pocket knife can be a consistent staple in one’s everyday carry. Especially one small enough to fit conveniently on your keyring – like the Elko from the James Brand – which I’ve gotten to put through its paces the past few weeks. My love of pocket knives predates my watch collecting interests by over a decade. In fact, getting into the mechanical minutiae of blades likely helped pave my way into the field of horology. I think knives are one of the best tools to keep with you daily, and as a result, I’ve lost more than a handful to unplanned metal detectors and security screening processes. So it goes. Therefore, I’m always looking to increase the size of my collection and have a variety of styles on hand, so I’m never without one close by. My knife collection ranges widely, though I tend to opt for blades that are legal to conceal in Colorado: 3.50 inches. It goes without saying that this measurement changes based on someone’s country and state, so do your own research here. The Elko is well under my state’s legal limit – the blade is a petite 1.74 inches – with a total length, including the handle, of 4.33 inches I was smitten with the Elko from the moment of my unboxi...

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 21, 2025

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost

The latest from Ming, the 37.02 Ghost, is something of a study in titanium, a favorite material here at Worn & Wound. Members of our team have been fans of titanium for years for its light weight and its frequent association with many of the tool watches we’ve come to love. Titanium was a rarely used material in watchmaking not that long ago, but it’s so prevalent now that it’s easy to forget that at one time it was considered quite exotic. The Ghost taps into some of that exoticism, and reminds us just how strange and, at least in some ways, how ill suited titanium can be to watchmaking – a fact that makes a watch like this all the more impressive.  The 37.02 Ghost is made entirely from grade 2 titanium, a material often referred to as “pure” titanium. This material is distinct from grade 5 titanium, which is much more common in modern watchmaking, in a number of ways. Grade 5 titanium is made up of significant quantities of aluminum and was developed to be relatively easy to machine for applications in aerospace and other industries. Those qualities also, eventually, made it well suited to watchmaking, and it’s really a special bonus that grade 5 titanium can be finished with a polish and has an overall brighter appearance than other titanium allows.  Grade 2 titanium is an entirely different animal. Ming notes that pure titanium is extremely difficult to cut, and there’s even a significant risk that grade 2 titanium shavings and dust can catch fire dur...

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab called Apr 18, 2025

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025

Did Watches & Wonders even happen if we don’t do a full team “Best Of” post? Hopefully, we’ll never find out. The verdict on this year’s show seems to be that it was stronger than expected, with plenty of iterative releases, but iterative releases that people generally seem to like, and want to buy (a good thing for the industry at a tricky moment, for sure). One thing that we get more sure of every year, though, is that no matter what the consensus happens to be on the show itself, there are always great watches there, and our contributors and Editorial team pick their favorites below. Zach Weiss  One of the best experiences at Watches & Wonders is simply being surprised. We often go into meetings having already read the press releases, and thus pretty much know what to expect. Well, this year I had the rare and fun opportunity to go in fairly blind to my meeting with Angelus as I simply hadn’t gone through their materials yet, and as a relatively quiet “indie” (quotes because they are technically under the umbrella of Citizen, though clearly operate independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed across my social media yet. So, with fresh eyes, I was presented this year’s main novelty, a trio of exceptional chronographs that I haven’t stopped thinking about since. In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique collection via a collaboration with Massena LAB called the Chronographe Médical. A spiritual recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher ...