Deployant
Pre-SIHH releases: Ulysse Nardin with three novelties
Ulysse Nardin releases three novelties ahead of SIHH: viz the Marine Grand Feu Tourbillon, the Marine Torpilleur Military and Classico Grand Feu.
Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem
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Deployant
Deployant
New Release: MB&F; X L’pée Octopod
Introducing the MB&F; X L'Epée Octopod: a new table clock inspired by aquatic themes of Octopus, Marine Chronometers and the movie The Abyss.
Revolution
Zenith Christophe Colomb
Zenith recalls the pioneering days of exploration with its tourbillon alternative In 1916, Zenith produced a new escapement called the Echappement Colon - Colón being the Spanish word for Columbus, and échappement the French word for escapement. This Lépine-style chronometer movement was 20½ lines in size and was awarded three first prizes by Neuchâtel’s observatory […]
Revolution
Baselworld 2016 First Impressions - Omega
Speeding In Let’s speed into this one. There are two stars of the hour in the lineup of Speedmasters this year: one, the reissued Speedmaster CK 2998 and the other, the Speedmaster Master Chronometer Chronograph Moonphase – one, the blue one (that we’re sure you’ve already seen on multiple Instagram wrist shots already) – and the other […]
Revolution
Breitling, A Manufacture
In the past, Breitling’s calibres were assembled and refined to chronometer standards from commercially available ébauches, ranging from Lemania-based movements (the calibre B11 and B12 were based on Lemania 1873 and 187 calibres, respectively) to Valjoux 7750-series and ETA 2892 movements (the latter, equipped with Dubois Dépraz chronograph modules). Then in 2009, the company revealed […]
Revolution
Building a Better Tourbillon
The technical and aesthetic challenges that have to be surmounted in crafting a fine tourbillon are reasons why they are especially prized. One very basic problem, is power. Mainsprings should be kept as weak as possible in order to reduce wear, but they need to be powerful enough to deliver sufficient energy to keep the […]
Revolution
Testing A Master: Omega And Swiss Federal Institute Of Metrology Announce New Certification Process
A Swiss watch is great, but a Swiss Chronometer is even better; for many customers there is added appeal in a COSC-certified watch. No surprise that some of the largest Manufactures in Switzerland, also have incorporated the Chronometer certification for the majority of their collections. Omega thought it was time to step up the certification […]
Revolution
Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase – Once In A Blue Moon
In many cases, watches that have the moonphase complication suffer from exactly the same problem as many chronographs: their dial layout is almost identical with one another. Not that this is so much a problem. This layout is often very practical and pleasing to the eye, but this does not diminish our craving for something […]
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s New Exhibition: A Journey Through Decorations
Some brands have a true luxury problem, and amongst them is Vacheron Constantin for sure. The Maison’s rich history has resulted in a private collection of 1,200 pieces, and the problem is that all of them can be considered highlights of their genre. Yet such a wealth of timepieces also offers numerous possibilities to create […]
Revolution
"How Difficult Can It Be To Engrave a Straight Line? – (with Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Fans of the BBC motoring television show, “Top Gear” will instantly recognise the phrase “How difficult can it be?”, many times uttered by hosts Jeremy Clarkson, James May and Richard Hammond at the beginning of the hour long program. Oftentimes prompted by the search for a solution to a problem, this phrase then sparks off […]
Revolution
“How Difficult Can It Be To Engrave a Straight Line? – (with Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Fans of the BBC motoring television show, “Top Gear” will instantly recognise the phrase “How difficult can it be?”, many times uttered by hosts Jeremy Clarkson, James May and Richard Hammond at the beginning of the hour long program. Oftentimes prompted by the search for a solution to a problem, this phrase then sparks off […]
Revolution
Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections.
Unveiling the Ulysse Nardin latest novelties and key developments showcased at the Baselworld 2013watch fair. This year proves to be an exciting one for the independent watch brand as it presented 5 new in-house movements in the following timepieces: Skeleton Tourbillon, Stranger – Musical Watch, Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Jade and Freak. Combining watchmaking savoir-faire with breakthrough innovations, the marque […]
SJX Watches
World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe
With a history dating back 266 years, Beyer Chronometrie is the world’s oldest watch store, but not for much longer: the store has been sold to Patek Philippe and will close at the end of the year. This turn of events echoes the sale of Bucherer to Rolex three years ago. Come next year, the store with its prime location on Zurich’s posh Bahnhofstrasse will be replaced by an enlarged Patek Philippe boutique. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) and Tages-Anzeiger. The sale is perhaps not that surprising given the store’s longtime owner, René Beyer, passed away in 2025 without an heir. The business was passed onto Beyer’s sister, Muriel Zahn-Beyer, who has no children of her own either. According to Ms Zahn-Beyer, speaking to the NZZ, the late René Beyer already planned for the sale prior to his death, having sold a minority stake in the business to Patek Philippe in 2024. Patek Philippe and Beyer have long been partners; in fact, Beyer is also the world’s oldest Patek Philippe retailer, having started carrying the brand around 1842, just a few years after the watchmaker was established in 1839. As a consequence, Beyer was perhaps one of the watchmaker’s most significant retailers, despite having only one store. With the takeover, the multi-brand section of the Beyer store will close, while its existing Patek Philippe boutique will be enlarged. This also means a third of Beyer’s current employees will be kept o...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Expands Geneva Bracelet Manufacture
Audemars Piguet (AP) is increasing its presence in what’s historically been the territory of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Not only is AP returning to Watches & Wonders, the industry’s flagship event held each year in Geneva, the brand is also expanding its footprint in the city’s suburb of Meyrin with an expanded case and bracelet manufacture. What and where Meyrin was already the home of AP’s case and bracelet manufacture, but the brand has been bulking up on industrial capacity and took over a U-shaped building, completed in 1965 for a pharmaceutical company, in 2023. The new facility increases its Geneva footprint almost four-fold, to 9,000 square metres, with room for 350 staff. While the brand has built new structures closer to home, the choice to renovate an existing historical building is notable. Fortunately AP’s employees won’t be stuck in the past, as the building has been modernised for energy management and to accommodate modern machines. The building is a short jaunt from Les Boîtiers de Genève, F.P. Journe’s case and bracelet manufacture, in what’s already a hotbed of horological activity, home to brands like Roger Dubuis and Chopard. In addition, the new facility will be home to what the brand is calling its New Technologies hub, presumably part of the brand’s new approach to research and development, known internally as the ‘Fab Lab.’ Industrial excellence We recently had the chance to hear directly from AP’s chief indu...
SJX Watches
Insight: F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine Smoked Sapphire
The Répétition Souveraine is one of the more unusual minute repeaters on the market, combining classical inspiration with an idiosyncratic technical approach that is unmistakably F.P. Journe. Based on the familiar architecture of the Chronomètre Souverain yet fundamentally reworked to accommodate a striking mechanism, it is neither a conventional integrated repeater nor a simple modular add-on. Launched in 2008 with a conventional dial and briefly the thinnest contemporary minute repeater on the market, the latest iteration of the Répétition Souveraine reveals its workings through a smoked sapphire dial, offering a direct view of its flat gongs and strike train while underscoring François-Paul Journe’s distinctive philosophy of clarity, compactness, and mechanical logic. This is our third encounter with the Répétition Souveraine, having already covered the silver-dial variant and the elusive “Black Label” edition. Almost modular Most independents – and many large brands – rely on a handful of external specialists like Le Cercle des Horlogers or decades-old ebauche stocks for their repeaters. As a result, most repeaters take the same, time-tested, approach with only a few exceptions. Most are integrated designs that put the repeater train, hammers, and gongs on the same level as the rest of the movement. The rejuvenation of mechanical matchmaking during the 1980s and 1990s brought with it demand for systems that brands could add to existing movements. Amo...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Summons Merlin and King Arthur’s Knights
Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series. At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights. Initial Thoughts Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall. Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt). The 45 mm case is 18k pink gol...
SJX Watches
Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier
Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...
Revolution
John Wayne: Hollywood’s Ultimate Cowboy and His Watch Legacy
Gentleman, scholar and life-long watch fan Marion Morrison – better known as John Wayne, or John “Duke” Wayne – was the toughest cowboy of them all.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009
Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Reverso Watchmaking Workshop to Singapore
Between July 10-20, 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre is staging Atelier d’Antoine in Singapore. A nod to the founder of the brand, Antoine LeCoultre, Atelier d’Antoine is series of workshops that invites both beginners and seasoned enthusiasts to discover the world of the Reverso by working on the famous swivelling case. The workshops take place at the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) boutique in Marina Bay Sands and will mirror the experience at the manufacture in Le Sentier. The event is open to be public, but registration is required. Atelier d’Antoine will feature two different programmes, Discovery Workshops and Masterclasses. Discovery Workshops take place in the context of the brand’s 2025 theme of the 1931 Polo Club, a tribute to the year the Reverso was launched, and will explore the Art Deco styling which defined the Reverso cases from the beginning. Participants will also learn how the iconic swivel mechanism works and learn about the evolution of the design. Modern-day Reverso watches, even though they are decades after the original, continue to echo the culture and tradition of the 1930s. Masterclasses are the culmination of the event, where participants assemble a Reverso case by hand, putting the 50 components together themselves. The experience will provide an unparalleled insight into the construction of the seemingly simple Reverso case. And continuing with the confectionery theme established at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year, JLC is pairing the event with a cho...
Quill & Pad
PS Horology by Peter Speake Presents Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son (+ Video)
In the 7 years since Peter Speake parted with the Speake-Marin brand he has been collaborating with other brands and watchmakers. Now he is back with a new brand PS Horology and two new models: the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son.
SJX Watches
Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity
For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...
Monochrome
Recap – Our Top Picks From This Year’s Geneva Watch Days Novelties
This year’s Geneva Watch Days was perhaps the hottest edition to date, both in actual daytime temperatures and in watches. With the thermometer hitting 30° Celius pretty much the entire week, we were impressed by the amount of genuinely innovative and creative watchmaking on display. From a skeletonized ultra-thin version of the Speake Marin Ripples […]
Fratello
Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches
This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique in Singapore’s MBS
Patek Philippe has just reopened its longstanding boutique in the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino resort in Singapore, after a renovation that gave the store a wall-to-wall makeover. Operated in partnership with Cortina Watch, a family-owned retailer that’s one of the brand’s biggest partners, the boutique features the brand’s latest store aesthetic that nonetheless remains recognisable with it use of dark and pale woods along with brass. Located in a choice location near the entrance to the gaming floor, the boutique covers 262 sq m, or over 2,800 sq ft. As is increasingly the practice for watch stores, the space is not just a showroom to display watches, but also includes an exhibit on Patek Philippe’s history as well as a lounge area with a bar. An enduring partnership One of Southeast Asia’s biggest retailers, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer in 1972. Twenty-twenty tw0 marked Cortina’s 50th year with Patek Philippe, an occasion marked by the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances the Geneva brand created a reference specifically for a retailer. Cortina established the first Patek Philippe boutique in Singapore in 2010, with the MBS story opening a year later. The retailer now operates more than half a dozen Patek Philippe boutiques in Asia, including stores in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022 The MBS boutique is the first in Singapore to feature the brand’s latest...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Nomos Ahoi Ref. 552 – It’s Both Relatively Affordable and Very Versatile
Sometimes the right watch has a way of finding you instead of the other way around. And that happened to Marin Green with a Nomos Ahoi Ref. 552.
Deployant
New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy
The Panerai Luminor Due was a collection which was first introduced in 2017, as the mid-sized, unisex Luminor model. The movement then was designated as the OP XXXIV which is assumed to have been renamed the P.900 caliber which is now found inside the new Due. The 42mm case Luminor Due bears the same crown guard as the iconic Luminor Marina, but with only 50m water resistance. Its slim profile and polished case is a marked stylistic variation from the original dive watch. The new dial color adds a nice statement to the hybrid classic timepiece.
SJX Watches
Inside Akrivia – Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva
Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Adam Levine
You asked, we delivered – at home with the Maroon 5 frontman and serious Rolex collector.
Time+Tide
Omega’s Seamaster 300M Paris is clad in medal gold
With nods to the winners' medals and revolutionary icon Marianne, Omega pays tribute to the Paris Olympics.The post Omega’s Seamaster 300M Paris is clad in medal gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.