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Monochrome
Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]
Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay has been a fan-favourite since release, but what if you're looking for bang for a little less buck?The post 8 of the best alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay, because you can always get better value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I looked back into my never-ending wishlist and picked a few watches that resonated with me. From one of the best Mimo date watches I’ve ever seen to the triumphant Juvenia Arithmo, the reasons I have never added them are different. Either I came too late, I was too hesitating, or… … I could not […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Counts Three Watches He Has Always Wanted But Hasn’t Added To His Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. Like Thomas, I’d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I’m not very confident with or knowledgeable about […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier to read the full article.
Monochrome
Long reserved for the Japan Domestic Market (the famous JDM watches), the Citizen Series 8 is the brand’s take on the sporty, characterful watches made for daily use. Sharply designed with a mix of boldness, resistance and a certain contemporary elegance, the collection was given some fresh air in 2021 and became available worldwide. Since […]
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SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
SJX Watches
The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...
Fratello
Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.
Monochrome
Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]
Time+Tide
Tuscan blue with a hint of bling for the new Code 11.59.The post The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Tuscany Blue amps up genre distortion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Giving an icon a shiny new coat of paint can be daunting. Of course, if you’re Omega and the icon is the Seamaster Diver 300M, you have plenty of material-both literally and figuratively-to draw on. In that vein, the new Seamaster Diver 300M in Bronze Gold and Burgundy, inspired by the very well-received 007 Edition launched in 2020 for the release of No Time to Die, isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it sure is making it prettier. This new Seamaster features a strikingly similar design ethos to the 007 Edition, with an oxalic anodized bezel ring and dial, dual screw-down crowns at the 3 and 10 positions, and a domed sapphire crystal. Setting it apart, however, is the Bronze Gold 42mm case, hands, and indices. Omega’s proprietary alloy is composed of 37.5% 9K gold, along with palladium and silver, creating a material that, according to the brand, touts corrosion resistance without verdigris-oxidization, which extends the patina process over a longer period of time than regular bronze. Of course, the Bronze Gold case isn’t the only noticeable difference from the 007 Edition-the new Seamaster’s bezel sports a deep shade of burgundy that contrasts beautifully with the case and gives the watch an air of royalty. Two different models will be available at launch, and both feature the burgundy bezel over a matte black sandblasted aluminum dial. PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indices, all of which are coated in Super-LumiNova, populate the dial alongside t...
Monochrome
Hanhart, the German brand with Swiss roots, produced stopwatches in the early 1920s, followed by Flieger chronographs for pilots in the late 1930s. Today, it is one of the go-to brands for retro pilot watches updated with contemporary materials and movements. At the end of last year, Hanhart released the 415 ES, a faithful recreation […]
Time+Tide
The Arena Vanitas shines through as one of the most thoughtfully designed and best-value dive watches we've seen in a long time.The post The Arena Vanitas proves there’s no futility in more microbrand divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There is a surprising amount of variety in just one movement family, meaning there is something for everyone with an SW500 movement.The post The watches that prove how good the Sellita SW500 family really is appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The brand's first use of platinum for a no-date Tonda PF model, this Parmigiani is the epitome of understated luxury.The post Parmigiani Fleurier releases a new platinum Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with a stunning Stone Blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
It’s Sunday again, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike and Jorg go head to head in a battle over integrated-bracelet sports watches this week. Two weeks ago, we had a similar match-up when Vacheron’s 222 went up against the Royal Oak. This week, two more famous watches in the same category fight […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Coffee and watches. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, movie theaters and popcorn, fireworks and the Fourth of July. OK, it might be the most obvious pair, but there are deep connections if you look for them. There’s a culture of hardcore enthusiasm associated with each, for one. And there’s even an entire brand (an incredibly popular and beloved one in our community) inspired by coffee culture. And, for some reason I’ve never really been able to put my finger on, watch photographers have become incredibly fond of staging watches near coffee mugs, coffee beans, and anything remotely coffee related. The reasons for this, frankly, are puzzling. But there’s one exception: if the dial of your watch is actually made of coffee, I think you’ve earned the right to feature some beans in your shot. The latest watch from Arcanaut, then, gets a pass if you’re one of the lucky 33 collectors able to acquire one. Built on the ARC II platform with that highly contoured, futuristic 40.5mm stainless steel case, the new D’Arc Roast limited edition features a brown dial that is made, in part, from coffee grounds. It’s right in line with Arcanaut’s mission to experiment with unusual materials, and also reflects the deep love of coffee in the brand’s home country of Denmark, which is the home of four of the seven winners of the Barista World Championship (store that one in the back of your brain for trivia night). So how is the dial made? According to the bra...
Monochrome
An article by Rob Memel, antiquarian horologist, professional certified watchmaker since 1984, and author of the book The Development Towards Huygens’ Spiral Spring (1660-1676), from which this article is a summary. About two years ago, I embarked on an in-depth investigation into another watch-related invention by Christiaan Huygens: the spiral spring on a balance wheel. […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
First presented in 2022, inspired by a popular model from the late 1990s (even though its design screams 1980s), the Citizen Tsuyosa instantly became a hit. And for obvious reasons… With its trendy design playing on the vibe of elegant sports watches, its vibrant and fun colours, its solid automatic movement and a rather unbeatable […]
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SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-five marks the 350th anniversary of the hairspring – it’s hard to believe the spiral ticking away in tens of millions of mechanical watches is already over three centuries old. The hairspring’s history is marked by revelations, disputes, and technical advancements, driven forward by creative horological minds, making the story of the hairspring a fascinating one. But behind all of that lies the question: who invented the hairspring? There are two familiar contenders for the title and it’ll take a deep dive into history to figure out who deserves credit. The motivation Prior to the invention of the hairspring, most timekeepers were clocks. Watches existed, but were essentially miniature clocks that still relied on some sort of gravity pendulum, making such early watches wildly inaccurate. So the hairspring was born of necessity, the need to transform clunky, stationary clocks into relatively precise portable timekeepers. By the mid 17th century, Dutch mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had already demonstrated a swinging pendulum could indeed serve as a reliable base unit of time measurement for a mechanical timekeeper. He designed his own cycloidal pendulum clocks equipped with oscillating bobs that were only dependent on gravitational acceleration and the cord’s length, making them true isochronous timekeepers. The first such clock was built in 1657 with the help of clockmaker Salomon Coster. “Isochronous” refers to an o...
Fratello
Praesidus has quickly become the go-to brand for military-inspired watches. The company specializes in creating timepieces that recall historical military stories from different eras. On top of that, Praesidus offers incredible value for money. As a result, its watches have become popular storytellers and are hugely appreciated among fans. Last year’s D-Day 80th Commemoration series […] Visit Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...
Fratello
One of the things I loved best about being a Panerai owner was changing straps regularly. By swapping their “shoes,” the look of the Panerai watches drastically changed. Unfortunately, REM Straps did not exist at the time. We got to know the folks at the company very well during our partnership on Speedmaster straps. Quality […] Visit Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps to read the full article.
Fratello
Of course, you are familiar with Omega and, most probably, Armin Strom as well. But did you know that Armin Strom, founder of the eponymous brand, was once the artisan doing all the skeleton work for Omega in the 1990s? Skeleton watches The art of movement skeletonization is old, and we still see it today […] Visit The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom to read the full article.
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