Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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SJX Watches

Louis Vuitton Introduces Jan 15, 2022

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch

Now in its fifth year of smartwatches, Louis Vuitton has just unveiled the latest generation of its “connected” watch, the Tambour Horizon Light Up. Still easily recognisable as a Louis Vuitton watch, and looking more like a watch than a device – that is the point of it – the Light Up is a thoughtful evolution of the concept, bringing with it a rounded, edge-to-edge screen and redesigned case. The result is a surprisingly attractive watch, albeit one that is amongst the priciest smartwatches on the market. The Light Up gets its name from the “rainbow” bezel powered by two dozen LEDs Initial thoughts Smartwatches with screens generally fall into two categories. One comes from the likes of Apple and Samsung, gadgets for the wrist that are evidently electronic devices. And the other are those from traditional watchmakers, ranging from TAG Heuer to Montblanc, which are typically resemble large wrist instruments for sports. With its simple case and discreet buttons, the Light Up clearly just wants to be a watch – and it succeeds. It is a (very) luxe smartwatch, so it’s not for everyone, but there’s no denying that the Light Up is appealing as a watch with intelligent features. With its Ressence-like case and whimsical features, the watch avoids the oversized wrist gadget look, and perfectly encapsulates the brand’s design prowess and house style. Left to right: the steel case in a polished finish, matte black PVD, and matte brown PVD And the Light Up is, ...

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SJX Watches

Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

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SJX Watches

Jan 9, 2022

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only

Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Dec 27, 2021

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc De Blancs 2006: The Quintessence Of Chardonnay With The Brilliance Of A Yellow Diamond

Hervé Deschamps has described the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs as “the quintessence of Chardonnay with the brilliance and rarity of a yellow diamond.” Ken Gargett thinks it's hard to argue with that. Here he explains why and shares his experience with the 2006 vintage.

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Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Dec 21, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge

Audemars Piguet have definitely thought outside of the box with many of their recent designs, such as the Code 11:59, Royal Oak Concepts, and the Black Panther, leveraging their traditional know-how to create modern timepieces the other Holy Trinity brands would never dream up. But they also understand when it is time to refine rather … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Dec 20, 2021

Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet 2018: Beautifully Refined, Elegant, And Powerful

Ken Gargett describes the Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet 2018 as beautifully refined, elegant, and powerful with the structure and fruit to last and improve for another 10, 20, or 30 years. An exquisite Cabernet, one of Australia’s best, and his score reflects it. Here Ken also gives us more than ample background on Wynns, the premier producer in Coonawarra, South Australia.

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SJX Watches

Richard Mille Introduces Dec 20, 2021

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal

Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal  – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A Dec 18, 2021

Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Dec 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P

Just days after the inaugural Nautilus ref. 5711/1A Tiffany & Co. 170th Anniversary sold for just over US$6.5 million, Patek Philippe has announced a wristwatch at the other end of the watchmaking spectrum. The latest in a series of watches focused on experimental new technologies, the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P-001 is the ultimate Patek Philippe minute repeater in terms of acoustics. Equipped with a patented amplification device named ‘fortissimo “ff”‘, the ref. 5750P strikes chimes that are so loud they are audible 60 m away according to Patek Philippe. Initial thoughts The ref. 5750P is interesting both mechanically and aesthetically. The R 27 PS movement certainly lives up to the “Advanced Research” label with its amplification mechanism, while the design is practically radical, at least in terms of Patek Philippe grand complications. While the “fortissimo” device relies on a few familiar principles, including a crystal soundboard and perforated case back, it is still novel enough to make it interesting. While other watchmakers have built repeating movements based on the same concepts, including Audemars Piguet with its Supersonnerie, Patek Philippe has done it in a classical fashion with an impressively thin movement that is very much typical of the brand. Visually, the ref. 5750P is radically different from any Patek Philippe repeater. Even the most contemporary of the brand’s striking watches are conventionally classical in...

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Time+Tide

Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection Dec 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour

When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Baltic Introduces Dec 1, 2021

Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel

Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph.  While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...

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SJX Watches

Omega Debuts Dec 1, 2021

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...

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Time+Tide

Bremont Supermarine Descent II is Nov 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks

Every once in a while, a watch just grabs me right in the feels. And oh boy, does this watch get me. I’ve been a Bremont fan for some time, especially of the original Supermarine 500, an elegant yet bomb-proof diver, executed at an extremely high level of craftsmanship. If Bremont were looking for a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Deployant

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Nov 27, 2021

Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel

Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.

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SJX Watches

H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 25, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”

Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...

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SJX Watches

Ressence Unveils Nov 25, 2021

Ressence Unveils the Type 1 Slim DX2

Launched as Dubai Watch Week opens its door, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is a limited edition created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the biggest watch retailer in the Middle East. Like its 2019 counterpart, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is inspired by the region. The polygonal geometric pattern on the sand-coloured dial is inspired by the decorative motifs found in the architecture of the Arab world, which have their roots in Islamic ornamentation. Initial thoughts The DX2 is a design variant, but it manages to look quite different from standard Type 1 Slim. It’s perfect for anyone who admires the brand’s technical ingenuity while seeking something more elaborate in terms of design. While the typical Ressence watch is all about unadorned, plain surfaces, the DX2 is decorative – and appealing for that. The dial brings textures, colour, and reflective surfaces that are not usually found on Ressence watches, which are either appealingly minimalist or mundane depending on your perspective. So the DX2 is more engaging, while retaining all of the mechanical ingenuity that sets Ressence apart from the competition. Because it’s mechanically identical to the standard model, the DX2 is also powered by an ETA 2892, a movement robust yet thin enough to fit the case. But the movement does come with the downside of a short, 36-hour power reserve. Still, the movement contains much impressive technical innovation, though that is all contained within the time-display module. Patterns and textures The co...

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WatchAdvice

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Nov 24, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark Hands-on Review

What we love:: Bringing recognition to an endangered species Black and lemon coloured diver is beautifully executed (Case-back showcasing lemon-sharks, needs to be seen to appreciate it)R-strap made entirely from recycled fishing nets What we don’t love: Price, some may find this to be expensive for what’s on offerAs much as we love the nylon strap, after few wears it tends to look old Bezel layout prone to catching dust  Over All Rating: 7.1/10 Value for money – 6.5/10Wearability – 7/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 The Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark Diver was unveiled as a beautiful shark-themed limited edition timepiece honouring and celebrating World Ocean Day. It also honours the well-known shark experts, divers, universities, and non-profit organisations that have given up their time to clean up and make our oceans better. On June 8th, 2021, Ulysse Nardin pledged their environmental commitment which follows the United Nations guidelines and its 17 sustainable development goals. The Swiss watch manufacturer has pled to meet these guidelines by the year 2030. The brand states that “Our aim is to reduce marine pollution by integrating materials culled from the ocean whenever possible into our new products. While we recycle discarded fishing nets into watch bands, we are also acquiring greater oceanographic knowledge with our focus being mainly on sharks.” Ulysse Nardin is devoted to shark conservation around the world, so it is only right that a wat...

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SJX Watches

Urban Jürgensen Nov 23, 2021

Business News: Investors Led by Kari Voutilainen Acquire Urban Jurgensen

Confirming chatter that was circulating in Geneva during watch auction season two weeks ago, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) has been taken over by a group of investors with Kari Voutilainen at the helm. Having worked at UJS decades ago as a young watchmaker, Mr Voutilainen is returning as the chief executive. He will also retain his role at his namesake brand, which recently moved into new premises high up above the town of Fleurier on the mountain known as Chapeau de Napoléon. Kari Voutilainen Working alongside Mr Voutilainen at UJS will be his daughter, Venla, who recently completed her watchmaking studies and then an internship at a large watch retailer. Better known for the unique pocket watch she helped create for Only Watch 2019, Ms Voutilainen will be in charge of after-sales service at UJS, while also working at the Voutilainen brand itself. Originally an 18th century Danish brand, UJS was revived in the 1970s by the late Peter Baumberger. Control then passed on to watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott after Baumberger’s death. During that period, Mr Voutilainen became involved with the brand once again, when he helped to refine its in-house calibre. UJS was then taken over by its most recent owners, Danish investors led by former Nokia executive Søren Jenry Petersen. Although the brand earned some press with new products during that period, most notably with its first sports watch, UJS never gained the necessary momentum to break into the ranks of top...

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Revolution

Nov 22, 2021

Revolution Awards 2021: Celebrating the Best of The Year

As we look to the end of the year, it has become tradition for us to celebrate by sorting through the wide array of watches launched over the course of the past months and bestowing awards among the best of the best. It’s not an easy task to begin with, and in a year such as this one, almost an impossible one. Despite the many challenges we’ve faced, on a whole, so many maisons have turned out gorgeous timepieces and made significant breakthroughs; it was tough having to vote any of them out. But we’ve done it again, contended with ourselves over the virtues of each nominee, argued vehemently for our favourites, and here it is. Here are the watches and people are celebrating for the 2021 Revolution Awards.

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SJX Watches

Greubel Forsey Introduces Nov 21, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2

Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...

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SJX Watches

A. Lange & Sohne Nov 21, 2021

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore

After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription Nov 18, 2021

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...

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Time+Tide

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Nov 13, 2021

HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert”

IWC have the pilot’s watch game sussed out and their Top Gun series are among the toughest of the bunch, with a no-holds barred approach to the watch as a vital flight instrument. You might recognise a whiff of nostalgia in the large sword hands and classic onion crown big enough to twiddle with proper … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Cartier Santos It’s no secret Nov 10, 2021

Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos

It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.

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SJX Watches

Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

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Time+Tide

Rolex model EDITOR’S NOTE Don’t Nov 7, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model

EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t mess with a classic? We reckon that can be rather unimaginative advice. Iconic watches often earn their status because the bones of their design are stronger enough to absorb a fair amount of experimentation without compromising their identity.  And, as this story proves, the Rolex Day-Date is a text-book example. The Rolex … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

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Time+Tide

Nov 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist

With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Rolex sports watch While that’s Oct 30, 2021

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more

In many ways, dress watches have become an overlooked genre in the watch world. While manufactures haven’t forgotten them, we certainly don’t see the same hype surrounding the latest Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso release as we do for, say, a new Rolex sports watch. While that’s not to knock Rolex by any means (I’m guilty of … ContinuedThe post Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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