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How Tight Should A Watch Be? Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 7, 2025

How Tight Should A Watch Be?

In the watch enthusiast community, we often find ourselves wading deep into the weeds of the most minute details. Typically, this concerns the mechanical inner workings of watches, whether a date window throws off visual harmony, or if the price of a watch is really justified. But as much nuance as there is in choosing a watch to add to your collection, so too is there nuance in getting that just-right fit on your own wrist.  We’ve recently dove into the deep end on the subject of how to actually wear a watch, and today, I’m charting a similar, yet deceptively simpler path: how to decide how tight your watch should be. This is more geared towards those folks out there who are just getting their hands on their first watch and need a little guidance before making any rash, link-related decisions. God forbid you’re facing a rubber strap that you’ll be cutting yourself. Down below, I’ll be sharing some quick and fast tips for finding the right fit for the watches in your collection, and some less obvious tips to consider before you go on your merry way.  [toc-section heading="Telltale Signs Your Watch Is Too Tight"]  First and foremost, your watch is not a tourniquet. If you feel any lightheadedness, numbness, or tingling, remove the offending piece from your wrist expeditiously.  Image: WatchUSeek Forum On a less dramatic note, comfort is your guiding light. Ideally, we want our watches to feel like an extension of ourselves, not an uncomfortable obtrusion. The...

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million Dec 6, 2025

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million

Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype shattered expectations at Phillips’ New York watch auction today when it achieved price of US$10.8 million including fees. One of the most talked-about lots this auction season, FFC’s FFC is the most expensive watch sold in 2025, and now the most valuable example of independent watchmaking by some margin. Big result in the Big Apple Despite chilly weather in New York, the action in the saleroom quickly turned hot. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened at US$1 million, but the bid instantly jumped to US$2 million. Several bidders then piled on, but the contest condensed to just four phone bidders past the US$4 million mark, including bidders represented by Tadzio Nuno and Paul Boutros, of Phillips’ Geneva and New York offices respectively. The action then settled into a head-to-head between bidders represented by Alex Ghotbi and Isabella Proia, once again of Geneva and New York respectively. Mr Ghotbi emerged the winner with a US$9 million bid, which brought the total to US$10.755 million with fees. The bidding was notable for being entirely on the phone – though one bidder was in the room but bidding on the phone – and also for being driven by clients outside of Asia. A record The result makes Mr Coppola’s prototype - one of only two made, and the only one in private hands - the most valuable wristwatch from an independent watchmaker ever sold at auction, exceeding the US$8.36 million achieved by the landm...

Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling Fratello
Breitling Breitling introduced numerous new Dec 6, 2025

Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling

Breitling introduced numerous new models this year, including several in precious metals. On Friday, November 28th, Fratello and Breitling hosted an evening at the brand’s boutique in The Hague to ensure our readers could go hands-on with these new watches. A golden evening with Breitling The evening started with a word of welcome and an […] Visit Photo Report: A Golden Evening With Breitling to read the full article.

Most Popular Rolex Watches: The Models That Take The Crown Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 5, 2025

Most Popular Rolex Watches: The Models That Take The Crown

If you’ve somehow made it this far in life without hearing the name Rolex, congratulations. You may be the last living human to do so. Rolex sits at the very center of the horological universe. The brand is so vast and culturally omnipresent that calling it “successful” is a little like describing the Louvre as “a building with some pretty paintings in it” - technically correct but hopelessly inadequate. Here we will take a look at some of the most popular Rolex watch models, spanning the current production catalog as well as past models with staying power. Though we have seen the demand for luxury watches rise, dip, and plateau over the last few years, the desirability to own a Rolex watch remains exceptionally high. Factors such as scarcity, brand provenance, and consistent appreciation in the resale market drive this remarkable demand. All of these influences are compounded by waitlists, which have elevated desire into near-mythic obsession. However, if you’re entirely new to Rolex, consider this your gentle initiation. In fact, even if you own several Rolex watches and want to learn more about the brand and its most popular references, this deep dive is going to provide you with more information than many people will acquire in a lifetime. First, let’s kick things off with a historical overview of this timekeeping titan.  [toc-section heading="Crown and Legacy: A Brief History of Rolex"] It might surprise you to learn that Rolex’s history didn’t j...

Introducing – Indies Pöhlmann-Bresan Team up with Jochen Benzinger For a Superb Unique Piece Monochrome
Dec 4, 2025

Introducing – Indies Pöhlmann-Bresan Team up with Jochen Benzinger For a Superb Unique Piece

Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan-Rehor are two German watchmakers who met more than a decade ago while working under Marco Lang at Lang & Heyne in Dresden. They represent a new generation of artisans who combine a deep respect for traditional craft with a modern, understated aesthetic. After mastering restoration work and experimentation, they formally […]

Rolex 1908 Review: The Dress Watch For A New Generation Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 4, 2025

Rolex 1908 Review: The Dress Watch For A New Generation

It’s easy to see Rolex exclusively as a sport watch brand, if even a luxury oriented one, thanks to collections that have helped to define their respective genres, such as the Submariner, the GMT-Master, the Explorer, and the Daytona. While they undoubtedly are just that, Rolex has another dimension to be discovered in more formal territory, and it’s a side we probably don’t see as often as we should, at least if their latest 1908 collection is anything to go by. Following the discontinuation of the Cellini collection in 2023, Rolex revealed its replacement in the 1908, sporting a familiar yet novel design language, and an entirely new movement in the caliber 7140. It was an immediate breath of fresh air, and a rare truly new release from the brand.  [toc-section heading="Some Rolex Design History"] Rolex has more than a century’s worth of design language to draw upon, and it would do exactly that with the design of the 1908. From the shape of the case, to the details of the bezel, and even the design of the hour numerals, the 1908 feels like a love letter to the history of Rolex. As a result, it’s a design that doesn’t feel entirely formal in nature, landing in a more versatile space than you might imagine, especially in the right spec. This is a watch that feels appropriate in a wide range of uses, from dressed to the nines in a suit and tie, all the way down to t-shirt and jeans affairs, this is a truly dynamic platform.  From the first oyster style cases ...

In-Depth – The Clock that Changed the World and the Fantastic Recreation of John Harrison’s H1 Monochrome
Dec 3, 2025

In-Depth – The Clock that Changed the World and the Fantastic Recreation of John Harrison’s H1

The replica of John Harrison’s H1 clock that the Stratford-upon-Avon-based Pragnell’s commissioned from Bob Bray of Sinclair Harding is a gloriously over-the-top tribute to an invention that was as significant an advance in the 18th century as the emergence of AI is today. Indeed, John Harrison’s H1 clock cracked the Longitude Problem, making navigation at […]

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO SJX Watches
Voutilainen Dec 3, 2025

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO

A significant transition is underway at Voutilainen as Angélique Singele is appointed chief executive officer of the brand, marking an important step in its long-term succession planning. The announcement follows Dubai Watch Week, where Kari Voutilainen discussed the future of founder-led independent watchmaking and his desire to keep the enterprise - spanning Voutilainen, Comblémine, Brodbeck Guillochage, and Voutilainen & Cattin - firmly independent. With Ms Singele taking over day-to-day leadership, Mr Voutilainen plans to refocus on creation, unique pieces, and client relationships, signalling a new chapter for one of the most influential names in contemporary independent horology. In conversations, Mr Voutilainen sometimes expresses frustrations at his long days filled with administrative and management matters, which leave him less time to deal with the watchmaking he is most passionate about. Initial thoughts The timing of Ms Singele’s appointment makes a lot of sense coming shortly after Dubai Watch Week, where Mr Voutilainen was a panelist, alongside Maximilian Büsser, on the topic of succession for founder-led independent watch brands. During the discussion Mr Voutilainen revealed that this is something he’s thought about since the beginning. “I was already thinking, almost at the beginning of my career, that there are only three ways [it might end]: stop the business, sell the business, or have the family continue it.” The appointment of Ms Singel...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2 Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Dec 3, 2025

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2

When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Dec 3, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph

The collaboration between TAG Heuer and Fragment continues with the new Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition, bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara’s keen enthusiast’s eye to the modern Glassbox chronograph. This new release continues the ongoing connection between the streetwear brand and the Swiss watchmakers at TAG Heuer. Once again, we get a clean, monochrome iteration on […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition Fratello
Raymond Weil Dec 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition

Dress watches are on the rise, especially among members of Gen Z. They like to mix the more formal style and smaller size with their oversized and informal wardrobes. But that, of course, isn’t at all the way dress watches are intended to be worn. That’s why Raymond Weil and seconde/seconde/ have developed a limited […] Visit Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition to read the full article.

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S SJX Watches
Bulgari focused Dec 3, 2025

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S

Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin s New Traditionelle Perpetual Dec 2, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Vacheron Constantin has had, by all accounts, a banner year defined by what I think most would categorize as “heavy hitters,” a watch media term of art that implies a certain combination of hype and watchmaking maximalism. January, of course, saw the release of the long awaited and much discussed 222 in steel, and they followed that up in April at Watches & Wonders with the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, which holds the belt, at the moment, for the most complicated wristwatch in the world. There was also a 550 pound clock with an automaton at its center (and 23 complications in total) as well as one of the sportier minute repeaters we’ve seen in a bit. Like I said, lots of big swings this year.  But Vacheron is closing 2025 in a far more understated way, and this latest release is perhaps my favorite thing I’ve seen from the brand this year. It’s certainly among the most approachable watches they’ve debuted, although that’s a relative term and the new Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is very expensive by any metric (they start at an even $100,000). But in terms of what this watch actually represents, it feels like the most classic distillation of what Vacheron is really about.  This is, very simply, a modest, medium sized perpetual calendar is a surprisingly thin and wearable case. Measuring at 36.5mm in diameter and 8.43mm tall, the Traditionelle Perpetual seen here represents the first time this case size has been used for non gem set watche...

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet

The Luminor Marina family by Panerai has long stood for the essence of the brand’s modern identity, a bridge between its storied naval roots and modern tool-watch engineering. Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Florentine brand revitalised the Luminor Marina line with a new generation of steel and titanium models featuring upgraded […]

Vantablack Watch Dials: The Blackest Black Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 2, 2025

Vantablack Watch Dials: The Blackest Black

Since the advent of wristwatches, the watch industry has continuously been defined by a constant drive to refine and innovate. In the modern context, we typically see that in the competition to make the thinnest watch ever, the most intricate, complicated movements, and recently, the most sophisticated complications at the most affordable price point. All of this is fine and dandy, and makes up much of the great majority of the stories your humble writer finds across her desk on any given week. But today, we’re getting into the weeds on an even more astoundingly specific side quest, possibly the most granular I’ve embarked on yet. That is, the pursuit of pushing the limits of one particular color. We’re entering the void of Vantablack – the blackest material in existence – and the few watchmakers out there that have dared to create Vantablack watch dials. [toc-section heading="What Is Vantablack?"]  I’m going to prepare you up top that this article will be touching on some pretty complex science elements. Largely, that’s what makes the subject at hand so interesting. Admittedly, it is also what took me the longest time to wrap my head around. It’s been a long time since I was in any sort of science class, okay? But the short answer to the question at hand is, put simply, Vantablack is among the darkest substances on planet Earth.  Vantablack is not naturally occurring and is the brainchild of the British company Surrey NanoSystems, which, as its name sugg...

Breguet Ends a Big Anniversary Year with the Impressive Expérimentale 1 Worn & Wound
Breguet Ends Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Ends a Big Anniversary Year with the Impressive Expérimentale 1

As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential.  The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...

Breguet’s Magnificent Magnetic Expérimentale 1 SJX Watches
Breguet s Magnificent Magnetic Expérimentale Dec 1, 2025

Breguet’s Magnificent Magnetic Expérimentale 1

Breguet concludes its 250th anniversary with the brand’s most forward-thinking watch, the Expérimentale 1 that boasts a magnetic, true constant force escapement. Equipped with a frictionless escape wheel and pallet lever driven by magnetic forces, the movement runs at 72,000 beats per hour, or 10 Hz – arguably making the Expérimentale 1 the ultimate Breguet chronometer. Impressively innovative with its use of silicon, magnets, and clever teeth geometry, the limited edition watch also marks the start of the Expérimentale line, a collection that will serve as a platform to debut new complications, technology, and designs. Initial thoughts While some might have been expecting an updated Sympathique, Breguet instead surprised with perhaps the most advanced wrist-borne mechanical chronometer in modern watchmaking. Taking cues from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s own “constant force” escapements, Breguet today harnessed the power of permanent magnets and unique teeth geometry to built a genuinely friction-less, constant torque escapement. In fact, the new escapement appears to be the only truly frictionless and constant force escapement on the market today.  Magnets have been employed in escapements in the past, but this approach was historically unreliable. Breguet appears to have discovered the right formula for a magnetic escapement. Several functioning prototypes were on show at the launch event. Moreover, Breguet chief executive Gregory Kissling explained that the ma...

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes

Along with the flagship Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 pocket watch, Breguet just announced its first water-resistant minute repeater, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365. While this 250th anniversary edition with a Breguet gold case and Bleu de France grand feu enamel dial is limited to 25 examples, it likely represents the future of the brand’s chiming watches: smaller and more robust. Initial Thoughts Despite the strong popularity chiming watches have seen at the high end for many years, it has felt like something of a weak point for Breguet, reliant on rather old movements that didn’t always sound the best. The ambitious and wild Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 promised to fix this in 2018, but for unknown reasons that watch never made it to market. However, acoustically Breguet’s repeaters have become quite good despite the old bones, proving how key gongs and case construction are to repeaters. The 7087 doubles down on this approach, not even introducing a silent centrifugal governor which has become ubiquitous in modern chiming watches, even at the high end – the sound of which I’ve come to find quaint. The move to smaller sizes, 42 mm to 39 might be more dictated by market trends rather than any specific vision from the brand, but is one I appreciate either way, and while water resistance isn’t strictly necessary in a chiming watch, the peace of mind is reassuring. In the end, this watch comes down to how much you lik...

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Starry Night Fratello
Bulova Super Seville Starry Night Dec 1, 2025

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Starry Night

The folks at IFL Watches have made watch dials the small but very adaptable canvas for their art. We have seen a wide variety of different hand-painted dials from the brand over time. For its latest creative challenge, IFLW drew inspiration from the work of the renowned Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh. To be more […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Starry Night to read the full article.

A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland Fratello
Nov 30, 2025

A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland

This new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold will become available on December 4th. However, after that date, this MoonSwatch model will be available only when the Swiss see snowflakes. Though it will be for sale at select Swatch boutiques worldwide, it will be subject to local weather conditions in Switzerland. And the sales of […] Visit A Novel Sales Model: This New MoonSwatch Is Only Available When It Snows In Switzerland to read the full article.

Join Us for the Launch of the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Nov 30, 2025

Join Us for the Launch of the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Collaboration

We are excited to invite you to the official launch of our new collaboration with Louis Erard. This project has been in development for three years, and we are looking forward to finally sharing it with you in person. The event will take place on Thursday, December 4, at our Brooklyn Showroom. It will be an evening focused on the watch, the people behind it and the story of how the collaboration came together. RSVP here. Event Details – Date: Thursday, December 4, 2025 – Time: 6:30 PM to 8:30 PM – Location: The Windup Watch Shop Showroom – 540 President, Suite 1G, Brooklyn, NY 11215 Like all of our events, this one is about more than showing a new watch. It is a chance to connect with the community and get a clear look at how the project took shape from start to finish. Throughout the evening you will be able to: – Get hands-on with the collaboration, so you can see the details, finishes and proportions up close. – Hear how the design came together, including the decisions and problem-solving that shaped the final watch. – Talk with the people behind the project, and learn what made this collaboration different from past releases. Hors d’oeuvres and cocktails will be served. At 7:15 PM, we will host a live Q&A; with Louis Erard CEO Manuel Emch. He will walk through the development process, explain Louis Erard’s role in modern watchmaking and share what makes this project unique within their lineup. Space is limited and RSVP is required to attend. The post ...