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Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

In Conversation with Alexandre Mille, Richard Mille’s Next Generation Leadership Revolution
Richard Mille s Next Generation Leadership Nov 4, 2022

In Conversation with Alexandre Mille, Richard Mille’s Next Generation Leadership

In the pantheon of watch brands that should be considered as the all-time greats, Richard Mille can undoubtedly be part of the conversation for the role it has played in breaking every known convention of traditional watchmaking, and its global impact in redefining contemporary collecting culture. Wei caught up with one of the next generation […]

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Fans Nov 4, 2022

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX

Fans of the best affordable integrated bracelet sports watch, rejoice! While possibly a bold claim, no other big box brand has managed to grasp the market quite as well as the Tissot PRX. Though successful, the Swatch Group brand has been pretty quiet with strap support for the PRX, despite its quick-release bracelet and the … ContinuedThe post Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Nov 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic

After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History

For fans of hip-hop and streetwear, there’s a lavish new coffee table book just for you. More than simply documenting flash jewellery, Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History drills down into the cultural significance of bling within streetwear culture. And a big part of that culture is the universe of timepieces that the musical luminaries … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031) SJX Watches
Ming 13 years after Oct 24, 2022

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031)

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 20, 2022

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons

Homogenous design. In a marketplace where it seems consumers have tunnel vision towards particular design segments, watch manufacturers have often bent to the trend of the moment rather than forge their own path. While many watch geeks love innovation and fresh aesthetics, brands do not always see the incentive from the broader marketplace. Speake-Marin, however, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin The Anatomy Oct 17, 2022

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore

To mark the reopening of its boutique within the same complex, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just inaugurated The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition taking place in the ArtScience Museum of Marina Bay Sands from now to November 2, 2022. Open to the public with free admission, the exhibition is an all-encompassing showcase of the brand’s watchmaking split into three sections, starting with its historical timepieces and culminating in its modern-day grand complications like the Tour de l’lle. The first section, Our Heritage: A Legacy as Precious as Time, presents a selection of the brand’s notable timepieces from its earliest years – the oldest watch on show is exactly 200 years old – continuing into the present day with the landmark Tour de l’lle launched in 2005 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, an impressive double-faced watch with 16 complications. A pocket watch dating from 1822 with an engraved case set with amethysts The Tour de l’lle Following that comes The Anatomy of Beauty dedicated to the brand’s traditional and artisanal decorative techniques. Amongst the highlights is the Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations”, a quartet of watches unveiled just earlier this year at the Louvre. Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations” Finally Science and Complications explores the five most important complications for VC, namely the tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, retrograde display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. The key exh...

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille Classic Car Exhibition Makes A Comeback Quill & Pad
Richard Mille Classic Car Exhibition Makes Oct 15, 2022

Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille Classic Car Exhibition Makes A Comeback

Chantilly may be known for its famous whipped cream, lace, and horse racing, but since 2014 this town in northern France, an hour’s drive from Paris, has played host to the most beautiful cars on the planet at Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille, a car lover’s garden party uniting both classic and contemporary cars.

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Urwerk Every Moment Counts’ Oct 6, 2022

Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore

Coinciding with the launch of the UR-120 with its novel, split-cube display, Urwerk is documenting its journey from the very beginning with an exhibition in Singapore that’s part of the brand’s 25th anniversary celebration. Organised in collaboration with its Asian retailer The Hour Glass, Every Moment Counts offers a look at the brand’s history through its historical products as well as intriguing archival photographs, all straight out of the brand’s museum. Other items on show include sketches, trophies, and memorabilia that offer a full picture of the brand and its two founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. At bottom right is a sketch of one of the brand’s foundational models, the UR-101 Reflecting the brand’s philosophy and house style, the exhibition has a futuristic aesthetic, such as the neon green and black display for the historical timepieces that brings to mind the luminous time display found on many of the brand’s watches. But the exhibition is also about nostalgia and includes a “Watchmaker’s Studio” with soft lighting that showcases photos from the founders’ childhood, which played a major role in shaping their avant-garde approach to watchmaking. The exhibition includes landmark watches like the UR-103 and UR-201 For technically-minded enthusiasts, the “Immersive Room” displays the exploded movement of the UR-111C on the wall, revealing in detail the workings of the intriguing cylindrical drum display. The UR-111C Every Mom...

VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen Time+Tide
Hamilton developed their quirky side Oct 4, 2022

VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen

Last time, Andrew and Luke took us through the key moments of Hamilton’s history cemented in Hollywood films such as The Frogmen and Interstellar. But, while military-issued watches were a massive part of the brand’s popularisation in the United States especially, the experimental period of Hamilton Electric and Pulsar was really what developed their quirky … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Hamilton developed their quirky side with cameos on the silver screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers Sep 14, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch

This year marks Longines’ 190th anniversary and they’re celebrating with an exclusive timepiece from their top-of-the-range Master Collection. Since 2005 , the Master Collection has become Longines’ home for their more traditionally styled pieces that riff off a number of the brand’s classic designs from the middle part of the 20th century. These are high-end … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Norqain laces up for the New York marathon, AP releases new book, Hamilton event Time+Tide
Hamilton event Back Sep 9, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Norqain laces up for the New York marathon, AP releases new book, Hamilton event

Back in the saddle here in NYC, already missing Geneva, but fortunately there have been some exciting updates this week. Locally, Norqain has made moves here in New York – revealing a brand new partnership earlier this week. Norqain is now the proud official timekeeper of the New York City Marathon and sponsor of the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Norqain laces up for the New York marathon, AP releases new book, Hamilton event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton SJX Watches
Zodiac Sep 8, 2022

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton

Already a prolific maker of wristwatches with tiny, intricate automatons – with tropical birds and magic lotus being part of its repertoire – Jaquet Droz has turned to the realm of Middle Earth for its latest creation. Featuring an automaton with nine mechanical animations, the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton was designed by Canadian illustrator John Howe. When it comes to dragons and fantasy lands, Mr Howe’s credentials are impeccable. Amongst his past roles was one of the two chief designers of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. And aside from the Dragon Automaton, another of Mr Howe’s most recent works was designing The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power, the Amazon production that’s the most expensive television series in history. Initial thoughts Dragons are a common theme on watches, but usually of the East Asian kind and typically in the Year of the Dragon of the Chinese Zodiac – a simple reflection of where most demand for luxury watches originates. A dragon of the European fantasy genre is less common; in fact, I cannot recall another watch that depicts themes from the fantasy genre. This makes the Dragon Automaton unique, both figuratively and literally. The motif is usual and esoteric so its appeal will certainly be niche at best. This version has an onyx dial with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture set against a similarly engraved mountain backdrop – the aesthetic is entirely The Lord of the Rings But that is exactly the point, since each Dragon Automa...

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey H Moser & Cie Sep 7, 2022

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore

With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...

Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE Time+Tide
Ming Sep 6, 2022

Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE

“I’m off fishing next week.” “Right I’ll overnight it to you.”  Timing is everything, and this holds especially true in the horological world.  Mike Blythe, founder of Draken Watches, had just received the first of his updated Kruger model, the Kruger SE, set for release on September 1, and there was a story that needed … ContinuedThe post Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco Aug 25, 2022

The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication

Often you’ll hear of a watch that stands out from the crowd, does something novel or makes a splash in its category. The Baume & Mercier Hampton takes a different approach, however. By virtue of its Art Deco-inspired, architectural cases, they look to be the perfect everyday watch, without evoking excess excitement or attention. Backed … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Hampton embodies Art Deco sophistication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising - these 5 watches from the past year show why Time+Tide
Farer s star keeps rising Aug 22, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising - these 5 watches from the past year show why

It’s unclear as to when you should stop referring to a company as a “microbrand”, but the conundrum also brings a sense of sheepish pride. Farer’s growth has been exponential in the past few years, with their command of colourful yet classy releases helping to sell out almost all of their releases cross a stream … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

53 Best Watch Blogs for Watch Enthusiasts & Collectors Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 19, 2022

53 Best Watch Blogs for Watch Enthusiasts & Collectors

Watch collectors, from newbies to veterans, often turn to watch blogs for the latest watch-world news and for trusted reviews of watches they're interested in owning. You will find a lot of useful information and buying advice on our own blog here, but what are some of the other online platforms worth checking out if you're an avid watch enthusiast? You'll find many options in our list of the (other) 50 Best Watch Blogs that are currently active online. Wrist Enthusiast Litigation attorney and social media consultant Craig Karger started Wrist Enthusiast as an Instagram account in 2015, and launched it as a full-fledged blog in 2021, adding a small team of editors and writers. The blog covers a wide scope of content for aficionados, from curated lists to hands-on reviews to celebrity watch-spotting. WatchTime WatchTime is the U.S.A.'s leading print publication devoted to the world of watches and its online home features some of the magazine's most popular features, including in-depth tests of timepieces, curated lists, and exclusive interviews with industry power players, in addition to all the watch world's most important breaking news.  Monochrome Watches Describing itself as "an online magazine dedicated to fine watches," Monochrome was founded in 2006 as the personal blog of Dutch watch enthusiast Frank Geelen and has grown to become one the most-read watch sites in the world. Monochrome covers an array of new product releases as well as serving up reviews, technic...

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger Time+Tide
Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Aug 18, 2022

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger

The art of the vintage-inspired watch, especially when done by a young brand such as Baltic, is in honouring the allure of the past while remaining relevant to a modern audience. Nostalgia has always played a big part in human culture, but we must also accept that there is no stopping the flow of time … ContinuedThe post The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up Time+Tide
Ming Aug 15, 2022

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up

We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus”

Seiko has gone beyond the green and gold to release two watches inspired by Australia’s natural environment that will be limited to the Australasian market. We’ll tackle the first of these now: the Prospex SRPJ35K “Eucalyptus”, but you can read our first impressions of the Prospex SBP347J “Noosa” right here. Both watches are released along … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several… Time+Tide
Aug 9, 2022

Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several…

I’ve always associated gold watches with Bond villains and 1980s stockbrokers – and yet I still want to be wealthy enough to wear them. Why? Because wearing steel watches freaks me out – even if it is just a little. You see, most watch cases use 316L steel, otherwise known as surgical grade steel. It’s … ContinuedThe post Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD

It’s hard to believe RZE have only been around for two years, but they are one of the ultimate microbrand success stories. Having released their first watch in the heart of the 2020 Coronavirus pandemic, nobody particularly expected the emerging business to survive, but during that period, online watch sales skyrocketed. In particular, RZE found … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.