Hodinkee
Happenings: Come Hang With HODINKEE And Zenith: We're Hosting A 'Master Of Chronographs' Event Next Week In New York
Explore the history of Zenith's El Primero at Phillips – and meet the HODINKEE editors.
Results for The COMEX Submariner Story
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Grand Seiko Comes To Geneva With Its Most Complicated Mechanical Watch, Ever
Grand Seiko's first mechanical complication stole the Geneva show.
Quill & Pad
Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph Tested On A Cold And Stormy Coastline – Reprise
Martin Green enjoys hiking to the Dutch beach in the winter. So when he borrowed a Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph for a test he decided to put it through its paces at the coastline. The stormy conditions were challenging, but the M2 Coastline Chronograph proved its worth.
Quill & Pad
Breitling Super AVI Collection 2021: Come Fly With Me!
Breitling’s new 2021 Super AVI collection highlights its ongoing commitment to a foundational pillar of the brand: aviation-inspired timepieces. Nancy Olson thinks that this collection embodies that sense of nostalgia for the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches as onboard tools.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions
Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano: A Tantalizing Two-Time Zone Teaser Of What’s To Come
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano combines the best with the best from 90 years' worth of Reverso variations, offering a pure, classic style that makes this watch both a statement and an understatement, the two faces doubling the impact. And as Martin Green explains, it's just a teaser of what's to come is 2021 as Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the iconic model.
Quill & Pad
Taylor’s Trio Of New Vintage Ports: There Will Be Comparative Tastings For Decades To Come
The most obvious thing to note with these three Taylor’s Vintage Ports is that they will be linked together forever. For decades to come, there will be comparative tastings and their progress will be carefully monitored. There are critics who claim that Taylor’s is the “Latour of Vintage Port,” but Ken Gargett believes they have that backwards: Latour is the “Taylor’s of Bordeaux.”
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dan Henry 1970 Review: With Great Value Comes Great Pre-Owned Markups
All but one variant of the 1970 is currently sold out with one, the 40mm orange, often asking significant markups above retail in the secondary market. This review will focus on that particular model.
Time+Tide
5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast
I distinctly remember the first time my interest was piqued in Bremont. Until then, I’d seen the brand around, but not been attracted to what appeared to be pretty plum conservative designs. I’d noticed the watch in Kingsman: The Secret Service and thought it was a clever, jolly appropriate spot for such a British brand, but … ContinuedThe post 5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Rado’s hit Captain Cook Automatic now comes in champagne
We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it’s official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name - brown sunbrushed) dial. Dial aside, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Rado’s hit Captain Cook Automatic now comes in champagne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Star light, Star Bright: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Full Lum
Bell & Ross takes readability up another rung with a new BR 03-92 that’s practically dipped in lume right up to its heels/pin buckle.
Worn & Wound
Hamilton’s America 250 Roadshow NYC Recap: A Fitting Salute to Military Roots
Hamilton recently kicked off its America 250 Roadshow in Charleston, South Carolina, but this past weekend it brought its traveling pop-up experience to Hudson Yards in NYC. This gathering brought together watch enthusiasts, curious passersby, and a healthy dose of military-inspired history. The traveling activation celebrates the upcoming 250th anniversary of the United States while spotlighting one of Hamilton’s most enduring collections: the Khaki Field. Born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, Hamilton’s story is deeply intertwined with American history. From keeping the nation’s railroads running on time to supplying over one million timepieces and marine chronometers to Allied forces during World War II, the brand’s reputation has long been built on precision and reliability. That heritage lives on today in the Khaki Field collection, which served as the centerpiece of this weekend’s Hudson Yards experience. Visitors were able to explore displays tracing the history of the Khaki Field line while getting hands-on with the new Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm America 250 Edition. Produced in a limited run of 1,776 pieces, the anniversary watch pays tribute to Hamilton’s military roots with vintage-inspired proportions and styling. Beyond the watches themselves, the pop-up offered plenty of opportunities to explore. A Hamilton watchmaker was on hand throughout the weekend, giving attendees an up-close look at the movements powering the brand’s mechanical watche...
Worn & Wound
Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet Join Watches & Wonders 2027
As the summer begins, next year’s Watches & Wonders (and the larger trade show agenda) is beginning to take shape. News broke this morning that Watches & Wonders will be adding several new brands to their show, which is slated for April 5-11 in Geneva, and will once again be held at Palexpo. The big story is that House of Brands, the new group fronted by Georges Kern including Breitling, Universal Geneve, and Gallet, will have space at Watches & Wonders 2027. Breitling has never participated in Watches & Wonders, but for as long as the show has existed, the brand has held parallel events in Geneva or events timed just before the show itself. Now they will be in the thick of it, along with their two sibling brands in a newly formed luxury group, each sitting at different ends of the market. We covered Universal Geneve’s return here. Gallet, to this point, has not made any announcements as far as products or availability, but they are expected to sit at a price point a tier below Breitling. The Breitling news comes a week after the surprise announcement of an entirely new show to be held in Basel next year. The new fair, Basilia, is set to debut in April and is a product of MCH Group and Informa Markets. According to a press release, Basilia expects to attract more than 400 exhibitors, including “manufacturers, designers, brands, retailers, wholesalers, distributors and sourcing specialists from around the world.” No word yet on any specific brands that have signed...
Deployant
New: Angelus Cronografo Telemetro Blue Ministeriale
Angelus releases a new chronograph with telemeter with an Italian story. Introducing the Cronografo Telemetro Blue Ministeriale. Released in gold and steel.
Time+Tide
Raymond Weil celebrates turning 50 in our London Studio
To mark this major milestone in the independent brand's story, we brought together the watch community in London.
SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai
Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.
SJX Watches
Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”
FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection
What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue. Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)
There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko's 40mm Dive Watch With A UFA Movement - Ushio 300 Diver
Grand Seiko has done something remarkable at Watches and Wonders for 2026. The headline story is the launch of the new Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 divers, and on top of that, a new smaller case size. The new divers are available in two dial variations, the blue SLGB023 and the green SLGB025. Of course, the main attracti
Monochrome
Introducing – Stéphane Pierre Launches Indie Brand and his First watch, L’Impétrant
There’s a new indie brand in town… Stéphane Pierre enters the independent watchmaking scene with a strong personal story and vision. Based in Annecy and trained as a micro-mechanical engineer, he brings a background shaped by traditional watchmaking and the demanding environment of the naval and military sector, as he spent several years in the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Constellation Observatory Review
I am here in Biel, Switzerland, to witness the unveiling of a brand new Constellation line from Omega – only this fact has proven to be just half the story. While there are nine new references in this new line of watches, Omega has also taken the next step since it launched its neutral accuracy testing program, the Laboratoire de Précision (LDP). While I continue slowly burying the lede here, let’s at least introduce the audience to the new Omega Constellation Observatory, a 39.4mm fresh approach to a classic design format that sees overt nods to the “pie-pan” dial layout as well as a mid-century construction of the case and lugs. The TLDR of this release is as follows: 9 new watches (4 in gold, 4 in steel, and one in platinum gold), two new movements (two done in precious metal, and one rhodium plated), and a new breakthrough in chronometric excellence which allows for both Chronometer and Master Chronometer certification to be done acoustically obviating the need for a seconds hand in the certification process. But don’t worry, we will break down everything about this new collection and new technological feat in the (many) words below. These watches offer a decidedly dressy take on the Constellation format in that they are two-hand watches, meaning there is no visible running seconds hand to be seen anywhere on the dial. This visual marker (or rather, lack thereof) is the key to bridging the external design with the internal significance and connection to the ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer
[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"] Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations. If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now. [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"] Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...
Fratello
ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite
One of the things I’ve learned over the years is that ArtyA watches tend to reward the experience of seeing them in person. Photographs rarely tell us the full story. The brand’s fascination with unusual materials and unconventional case designs often produces pieces that behave very differently in person. Rest assured, the new Purity Moissanite […] Visit ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Traska Watches Review: An EDC American Brand
When we look back to mid-century watchmaking, some of the industry’s most iconic designs were originally conceived as essential, life-saving instruments. The Rolex Submariner, for example, was originally created for professional divers working in cold, deep waters while breathing compressed air. The Omega Speedmaster was a vital analog calculator for astronauts traveling through the vacuum of space. The Rolex Explorer is another example, forged to survive the brutal, oxygen-deprived ascent of the Himalayas. These tool watches were designed with a clear purpose and were built to endure knocks, scrapes, and harsh conditions without missing a beat. Fast forward to today, and while modern iterations are undeniably better engineered than their vintage ancestors, boasting superior metallurgy and tighter tolerances, their exorbitant price tags have put some collectors off regular, daily use. A modern steel sports watch can easily demand anywhere from $6,000 to well over $15,000 at retail, and that’s assuming you have the willpower to ensure the waitlists to acquire one. And while some collectors are happy to invest that kind of money, others are on the lookout for something more accessible. Enter Traska watches. This psychological friction has spawned a new enthusiast community for the ultimate Everyday Carry (EDC) watch, or the “go-anywhere, do-anything” (GADA) watch. Many collectors today are looking for a watch that slides effortlessly under a tailored cuff during a hi...
Time+Tide
Chronoswiss doubles down on light and depth with Space Timer Gravity and Lunar Chronograph Aurora
Both lean on colour‑shifting CVD finishes, both keep the moon in the story, and both are unmistakably Chronoswiss at a glance.The post Chronoswiss doubles down on light and depth with Space Timer Gravity and Lunar Chronograph Aurora appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Understanding Resonance in Watches
Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general. This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...
SJX Watches
Raketa’s 24-Hour Baikonur Takes Flight
Space-themed watches represent a sizable proportion of the luxury watch industry. In fact, there are so many that at times it seems like the Space Race itself might have been contrived solely as a marketing concept for luxury watches. But with a story this good, who can say no? Of course, it helps that the Raketa Baikonur is an appealing watch in its own right with convenient dual-time functionality and an attractive instrument-like 24-hour dial. Initial thoughts “They’ve got a man up there! It’s Gagarin!” Even though this imagined line was written for the 1983 film adaptation of Tom Wolfe’s The Right Stuff, it sums up the tension that underpinned the Space Race between the United States and the Soviet Union. The statement refers to Soviet Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, who became the first human in space in 1961, orbiting the Earth in 108 minutes. It’s a suitably dramatic event to commemorate with a wristwatch, especially from Raketa, a brand named in honour of Gagarin’s flight. Instrument-like dials can be boring, but the designers at Raketa did just enough to keep it interesting, referencing the brand’s emblematic Big Zero at noon and midnight, without taking it too far. An internal rotating flange offers an auxiliary 24-hour scale, adjustable by the second crown. This facilitates keeping track of two time zones with full AM/PM resolution, something that’s actually quite rare. The dial also positions noon at the traditional 12 o’clock position, which is wel...
Time+Tide
New releases from Sartory Billard, Venezianico, Baltic and more
Independent brands have to write their own story, and every one of them approaches it differently, as these past seven days have shown.The post New releases from Sartory Billard, Venezianico, Baltic and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) X Selten Jui Bauhinia
Following the success of the Watch Ho & Co. × Selten's Jui, they reunite once again to unveil the next chapter of the Jui story, the Jui Bauhinia.