Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Aquastar Model 60
A faithful retooling of a classic of the skin diver era.
Results for Equation of Time
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SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial
As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...
Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case
Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out. The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...
Worn & Wound
Sound The Alarm: Vulcain Links Up with Revolution & The Rake on Limited Edition ‘Style Moderne’ Cricket
The latest iteration of Vulcain’s beloved alarm watch, aptly named the Cricket, is a collaborative limited edition piece with Revolution & The Rake. Tapping into Revolution’s enthusiasm for finely crafted timepieces and The Rake’s sartorial know-how, the Cricket gets a handsome new sector dial that harkens back to the design made popular in the 1930’s. Still keeping the foundational elements of the Cricket, the limited edition ‘Style Moderne’ is a representation of an era where design evolved from Art Deco’s flash and flare, to practical and functional, without sacrificing its appealing facade. To dive a little deeper into architectural history and terminology, Style Moderne or also known as Art Moderne emphasized movement and sleekness. It was a departure from the embellished zig zags and chevrons found in the previous decade, and a transition to more streamlined designs while maintaining some of its geometric and bold color elements. The Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ embodies that evolution with its sectioned two-tone Bellini and anthracite dial. Each layer of the dial has its own geometrical feature; the inner dial is split into four quadrants, the following Bellini layer is split into eight separate sections by several anthracite channels that flow into the outer portion of the dial. We’ve seen multiple hour marker displays within the Cricket collection, ranging from Arabic numerals, pointed markers, and a combination of both. This particular edition come...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”
Two years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) introduced the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”, a watch that caused a stir, to put it mildly. While the comics-and-complications combination was unorthodox, the watch was a commercial success. Now AP is following up – as promised – with its second Marvel collaboration, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”. Like its predecessor, it has a miniature sculpture of the superhero as the dial and it is once again again a Royal Oak Concept, but now powered by a new calibre. And the Royal Oak Spider-Man watch also continues the charitable tradition started by its predecessor. A unique version of the new watch, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Black Suit Spider-Man” that depicts a black-and-silver superhero, will be sold at auction to benefit First Book and Ashoka, a pair of charities that bring education to disadvantaged youth. Initial thoughts In some ways, the Royal Oak Black Panther did not look serious enough for such an expensive watch; it was perhaps too purple. While its aesthetics were subjective, it was certainly well executed. The miniature sculpture was done well in both detail, colour, and form. The same holds true for the Royal Oak Spider-Man, but it is an altogether more attractive watch. For one, it is less purple and more monochromatic, with much of the watch being black and white, leaving only the superhero figure to convey colour. And the figure itself is better positioned in that it allows more of t...
Hodinkee
Introducing: AP Celebrates the Royal Oak Offshore's 30th Birthday With A Dramatic Limited Edition (Live Pics)
It's the End of Days all over again.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton Limited Edition
The Voyager case goes bones and all with a brand new automatic time-only skeleton movement.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Baltic Goes Bronze Again With The Aquascaphe Marron
Much like other releases of late from the brand, this new take on bronze represents a maturation.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Piaget Polo Date 36mm
Piaget takes the one size fits all approach with a smaller sized Polo, this time without diamonds.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Hublot Big Bang Unico Made From Nespresso Capsules And Coffee Grounds
This unlikely pairing teamed up to make a sustainable watch in a very bright shade of environmentally friendly green.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler Special Edition (Live Pics)
Inspired by shipwrecks and the ever-adventurous Dirk Pitt, this diver is an artifact to the legacy of the famed author and explorer.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Four New Breitling Classic AVIs Bring Aviator Styling To A More Wearable Size (And Two Other Surprises)
The understated tool-watch look of the Super AVI lands in a 42mm size inspired by iconic airplanes – but that's not all.
Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition
The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand. Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one. According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna
Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas
The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking. With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements. Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB28XS Starry Seas
De Bethune releases their smallest case that they ever made in a new DB28XS Starry Seas. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: De Bethune DB28XS Starry Seas The new De Bethune DB28XS Starry Seas will have a retail price of CHF 77,000 / USD 90,000 excluding VAT. Commentary De Bethune has always beenRead More
Worn & Wound
Photo Report: Porsche and Watch Spotting at Rally Point East’s Third Annual Porscheast
The beauty of collecting is that it can totally be specific to you. There isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. Just pick your lane, whether that be enjoying your collective interests from a thirty thousand foot view above or really getting into the niche weeds, and stick with it. Or not! Again, that’s the beauty of it all – you can zig and zag. Porsche enthusiasts know this all too well. One Porsche enthusiast can enjoy the brand for what it is; a powerful piece of German engineering known for its precise-handling, longevity and entertaining driving experience. You can also meet another Porsche enthusiast that can be hyper focused into one little definitive area of the brand whose interest can oftentimes spark a spirited debate with another fellow Porsche compatriot with a conflicting keenness. Vintage versus Modern. Air-Cooled versus Water-Cooled. 959 versus 964 (insert any other Porsche model debate here). Stock versus Mod. So on and so forth. However despite the differences, it’s the deep enthusiasm that binds everyone together. Top. Down. A couple of weekends ago, Rally Point East hosted their third annual Porscheast event, bringing together all sorts of enthusiasts and radical Porsches alike. Situated in Westhampton Beach, Rally Point East is an automotive club that provides a space for like-minded individuals to gather and talk about all things cars and other adjacent interests. The club offers a suite of perks to its members not limited to vehicle storage...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000
One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore
Tracing the evolution of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s trademark watch, Reverso Stories will soon open at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. Admission is free but registration is required to attend. The exhibition starts with the Reverso’s origins in 1931 as a sports watch and culminates with the highly complicated models of the present day. A curated selection of vintage and contemporary pieces will be on show to illustrate the versatility and timeless nature of the iconic design. Among the highlights are the latest watches just unveiled at Watches & Wonders in March, including the Reverso Tribute Chronograph. But the highlight is the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, a grand complication boasting four faces and a movement with over 800 components. The exhibition will also feature Origin, a multimedia artwork by Korean artist Yiyun Kang, who serves as one of the brand’s artistic collaborators. Relying on projection mapping, her installation introduces another dimension to the exhibition. And of course the exhibition venue includes the 1931 Café where drinks are served in an Art Deco setting. Yiyun Kang The Art Deco-inspired 1931 Café Reverso Stories takes place from June 1-8, 2023 at the Marina Sands Bay Plaza. It is open to the public daily from 11:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free, but registration is required to attend. Marina Bay Sands B2M-240 2 Bayfront Ave Singapore 018972 To register, visit jaegerlecoultre.com.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The anOrdain Model 3 Limited Edition For Hodinkee
A collection of 25 hand-engraved sunburst enamel dials.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS
One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed. The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The 7 Best Seiko Watches You Need To Know
After nearly a decade of reviewing Seiko watches, we're sharing the best ones you need to know about if you're researching the brand.
Deployant
New: Doxa honours Maritime Explorer and Novelist Clive Cussler with a special SUB 300T
Doxa extends their popular SUB 300T collection with a new special issue of a watch honouring the famed maritime explorer and novelist Clive Cussler.
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Audemars Piguet Announces New CEO
Ilaria Resta will take on the role of Chief Executive Officer beginning January 1, 2024.
SJX Watches
Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO
Ending months of speculation, Audemars Piguet (AP) has finally filled the role of chief executive officer after outgoing boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed his intention to depart last year. The Le Brassus watchmaker famous for the Royal Oak just announced that the top job will go to Ilaria Resta, formerly the president at a privately-held fragrances giant headquartered in Geneva. According to the announcement, Ms Resta joins AP in August this year and officially assumes the chief executive role on January 1, 2024. Mr Bennahmias will remain to assist with the transition until the end of 2023. A thirty-year veteran of the brand, the flamboyant Mr Bennahmias quadrupled AP’s annual revenue during his tenure, with its sales last year hitting the CHF2 billion mark. His successor’s résumé, however, suggests the board might be looking for someone who understands branding on a global and mass-market scale. With a long and accomplished career in fast-moving consumer goods, Ms Resta’s background is unusual for the leader of a major luxury watch brand. She was most recently President of Global Perfumery & Beauty President at Firmenich, a Swiss firm that is one of the world’s largest fragrances companies and, like AP, family controlled. For over two decades until 2020, Ms Resta held a range of roles at Procter & Gamble, covering sectors ranging from laundry to hair care. “Her proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer...
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence
Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century
For those who were into scuba diving in the 1960s/70s and did not care for the professional-grade dive watches from Rolex and Blancpain, skin divers offered a more wearable and equally cool horological experience. Skin divers got their name from the fact that they were meant to be worn directly on the skin and not … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Christie’s Rare Watches May 2023 Auction Featured a Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany Blue, Gérald Genta with Royal Provenance, F.P Journe Resonance, De Bethune and Much More
There were many surprises in the Christie’s Rare Watches auction in Geneva on May 13. Some satisfying, some disappointing. At a preview held by Christie's in late March and early April during the Watches & Wonders show in Geneva, Alexey Kutkovoy was able to see and examine several lots in detail. Here are a few of the results that caught his eye.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong
Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.