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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Up Close: Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton SJX Watches
Longines Mar 10, 2020

Up Close: Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton

Even though Jaquet Droz is a part of Switzerland’s largest watchmaking conglomerate – its parent Swatch Group also owns more mainstream names like Omega and Longines – the brand has consistently demonstrated an independence of thought with its impressive range of automata wristwatches – the latest being the Magic Lotus Automaton. Combining artisanal decoration with miniature automata – complex mechanical devices that typically imitate humans or nature – these watches continue a lineage that began with the brand’s founder: Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721–1790). Jaquet-Droz built automata that were shockingly lifelike for the period, with his greatest invention being The Writer. A seated figure capable of writing a pre-programmed sentence up to 40 characters long, The Writer was such a feat that during the Spanish Inquisition, its maker was suspected of using witchcraft to create the uncanny contraption. Over two centuries later, Jaquet Droz has developed several modern-day interpretations of its allegedly supernatural devices, often wristwatches that combine an automaton with a minute repeater – and even in monumental pocket-watch format. The recent Magic Lotus Automaton, on the other hand, is much simpler, but one of the most unusual and intriguing. It is not a minute repeater, but manages to be brilliantly conceived and effective. Garden of wonders Despite not having a repeater, the Magic Lotus Automaton is still a mechanical bombshell – so it is massive,...

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics Time+Tide
Blancpain Rolex Omega DOXA … Mar 9, 2020

Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics

Blancpain, Rolex, Omega, DOXA … these are the watchmakers we normally associate with being the doyens of creating dive watches. However, as Seiko is keen to point out in their latest trilogy release, the Japanese firm has been deeply submerged in the art form of birthing amphibious timepieces for quite some time too – 55 … ContinuedThe post Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA001 Mar 9, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet

This year is a big one for Grand Seiko as it is the 60th anniversary of the brand, a number already made special with several limited editions. Over the last few days they have released several more, one of which is arguably their most impressive dive watch yet. Say hello to the Grand Seiko SLGA001, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 SJX Watches
Mar 9, 2020

Hands-On: The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2

Two years ago, German independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke announced his first proprietary movement, the Kaliber 1, which was developed in collaboration with Habring2. A year later, the movement has made its debut in a pair of classically-styled watches – the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2. Both models mark a stark departure from his earlier watches both in terms of design and price. Based in a small town east of Dresden, Kudoke was best known extravagantly engraved, skeletonised  timepieces, often powered by a Unitas-based movement (which meant they were all relatively large). But the latest Kudoke watches are far more understated, as well as attractively priced, starting at just over US$7,900. In fact, these watches present a compelling proposition, offering an unusual level of hand-decoration for its price bracket, save for a handful of other small independents, such as D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The Kudoke 1 Gently hand-engraved The Kudoke 1 is a well-designed watch showing the hours, minutes and seconds, while the Kudoke 2 replaces the seconds with a wonderfully engraved day and night indicator. Both watches are compact and thin enough to wear comfortably, though not quite so thin as to be true formal watches. Instead they feel like elegant everyday watches with discreet, appealing details in the hands, dial and movement. The two have the same steel case that’s 39 mm wide, but differ slightly in thickness due to the addition of the domed day and night indicator in the Kudoke ...

Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère: Titillating Tessellations Quill & Pad
Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard Mar 8, 2020

Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère: Titillating Tessellations

The Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère is a stunning mosaic watch that must be seen and handled personally for the full effect. Often jewelry pieces can look stunning on the screen, however Joshua Munchow feels that this piece as a work of art is not best represented in digital pixels but perfectly suited for a real-life experience.

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch Time+Tide
Mar 8, 2020

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch

Emerging watchmakers face the near-Sisyphean task of standing out in a sea of low-budget options all vying for market dominance and social media influence. When William Wood’s founder Jonny Garrett launched a crowdfunding campaign to commemorate his grandfather’s heroics in the British Fire Service, the passion in the story clearly resonated with the thousands of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: Labour Day edition Time+Tide
Mar 8, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: Labour Day edition

It’s the Labour Day long weekend here in Victoria, which means that while the rest of the country is experiencing their weekly dose of Mondayitis, us southerners get one more day in the sun. And, in the interest of entertaining you all, I did the right honourable thing and went out in search of what … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: Labour Day edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

International Women’s Day Special: The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made . . . For Women – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Were Made Mar 8, 2020

International Women’s Day Special: The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made . . . For Women – Reprise

Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.

Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 2: With Rockstar Ratings Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2020

Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 2: With Rockstar Ratings

If you missed out on the first instalment of us rating Post Malone’s watch collection, stop reading and hit this link right here. And, if you haven’t seen GQ’s latest On The Rocks video featuring Posty and his multimillion dollar assortment of timepieces, you can click here. Done that? OK great … let’s, as Malone … ContinuedThe post Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 2: With Rockstar Ratings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now Mar 6, 2020

New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements

One of IWC’s most emblematic timepieces, the Portugieser chronograph has been a cornerstone of the brand’s collection for many years. The Portugieser, which first appeared back in 1939, has not always been a bestseller. The truth is, IWC failed with three separate launches before the Portugieser finally became a success in the early 1990s. Sabine Zwettler shares a brief history of the Portugieser here and introduces the six new chronograph variations powered by an in-house movement.

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword watches Mar 6, 2020

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors?

Editor’s note: Few other types of watches have transitioned so well from being utilitarian tools into weekend warriors as military-spec watches. Whether it be a broad arrow brandished member of the “Dirty Dozen”, a vintage Tudor Submariner used by the Marine Nationale or even a more contemporary Bremont Broadsword, watches that have been and are … ContinuedThe post Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dr. Loosen And Jim Barry’s LoosenBarry: Two Suspenseful Rieslings From Germany’s Mosel Region And Clare Valley, Australia Quill & Pad
Mar 5, 2020

Dr. Loosen And Jim Barry’s LoosenBarry: Two Suspenseful Rieslings From Germany’s Mosel Region And Clare Valley, Australia

Clare Valley winemaker Jim Barry has teamed up with one of the most famous German producers, Dr. Loosen, to form a new joint venture called LoosenBarry. It currently offers two blends of Rieslings: one using Mosel grapes but made in the Australian style, while the other Riesling comes from Clare Valley grapes, but made in the German style. And the results are in!

Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2020

Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings

GQ just dropped the latest video from their On The Rocks series, with the face-tatted hip-hop heavyweight that is Post Malone. His watch collection is nothing short of unreal – it’s a “hypebeasts” delight … which suits Posty down to the ground. But as is the case with just about everything in life, not all … ContinuedThe post Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch

Some colourful watches are so loud they threaten to leave you with tinnitus. But is a brightly hued timepiece just a harmless switch-up that offers a bit of fun and welcome variety? Or is a super colourful watch an unforgivably gaudy choice that’s designed for look-at-me narcissists and the stylistically insane? Luke Benedictus and Nick … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Wearing a SUPER colourful watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001

Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...

Grand Seiko Introduces the First GS 1960 Re-Creation (Including in Titanium) SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the First GS 1960 Re-Creation (Including in Titanium)

Sometimes known as the “3180” after the movement inside, the very first Grand Seiko model of 1960 is an indisputably important watch in the history of the brand. Unsurprisingly, the first Grand Seiko has been remade on several occasions as commemorative limited editions. For the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, a “re-creation” of the first Grand Seiko is being added to the regular collection – including a surprising version with a titanium case. With reissues of the 3180 having been done for the 120th and 130th anniversary of Seiko, and most recently in 2017 when Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand, the 3180 remake is now on its fourth iteration, making it pretty familiar. The latest remakes might not please anyone who owns the preceding editions, but for anyone who missed out they are spot on. But the new re-creation is distinct in several ways. The case is 38 mm, larger than the 35 mm original, and identical to the 2017 edition. More notably, it has a sapphire case back, a first for a 3180 remake. The 9S64 visible through the display back Three versions are available, each distinguished in material and dial colour but also in more subtle details. The top-of-the-line model is the platinum re-creation SBGW257. This has a solid gold dial matched with solid gold hour markers, as well as an engraved logo at 12 o’clock, a detail inspired by the dials of early 3180s. Because of the precious metal dial, it has a small star at above six o’clock, which ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved

Twenty-twenty marks the 60th year of Grand Seiko and the brand is pulling no punches with its high-end commemorative editions. Dedicated to Grand Seiko’s workshop in the town of Shizukuishi, the 60th anniversary pair of Elegance Collection Thin Dress watches both feature decorative engraving, but executed by hand and machine respectively. Located in the northern province of Iwate, Shizukuishi is a small town surrounded by mountains, including the imposing Mount Iwate, which is an active volcano. The town is home to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where the best mechanical Grand Seiko watches are produced (Spring Drive watches, on the other hand, are produced at Seiko-Epson’s facility in Shiojiri in Nagano province). Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ hand-engraved SBGW263 (left) and machine-engraved SBGW264 Shizukuishi, or しずく いし, translates literally as “water droplet on stone” – shizuku is “droplet” and ishi means “stone”. Legend has it that the town was founded a millennia ago when an old man living in the area heard the sound of dripping water, which originated in a cave where water from the ceiling was dripping onto the rocks below. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Thin Dress ’60th Anniversary’ Hand Engraved (ref. SBGW263) is a nod to the ancient origin story. It featured a solid gold dial hand engraved with a motif inspired by the town’s founding. Made entirely of 18k white gold, the dial is comprised of three parts – bas...

Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary Trilogy SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary Trilogy

Seiko has been on a hot streak with its remakes of vintage dive watches, including the Hi-Beat 6159 of 2018 and last year’s “Turtle” 6105. With 2020 being the 55th anniversary of its first dive watch, Seiko is reissuing three of its most well-liked vintage dive watches, the Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159. All three remakes features notable upgrades, including the use of a new alloy named Ever-Brilliant Steel that is notably corrosion resistant. (And for those on a less-ambitious budget, the line-up also includes an affordable 62MAS remake – see this at the bottom of the story.) The vintage originals (from left): Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159 Used for the first time in watchmaking according to Seiko, Ever-Brilliant Steel has a more silvery appearance than the steel alloy most commonly used in watchmaking – 316L or “surgical steel” – but more crucially, the alloy has better corrosion resistant. Specifically, Seiko says Ever-Brilliant Steel has a pitting resistance equivalent number (PREN) of 1.7 times 316L steel. With 316L steel having a PREN of around 25, Ever-Brilliant Steel should surpass 40 – usually the benchmark for materials uses for marine applications. The Ever-Brilliant Steel case of the SLA037 The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation “62MAS” (ref. SLA037 or SBEX009) is a remake of Seiko’s first ever dive watch. Measuring 39.9 mm by 14.7 mm, the case is larger than the original, and of course made from Ev...