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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 5821 Oct 17, 2024

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P

Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils Oct 4, 2024

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum

I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention.  As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position.  When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 WatchAdvice
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 After Apr 30, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...

A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans Worn & Wound
Maen Dec 4, 2023

A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans

As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. The post A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down Time+Tide
Oris ed modification – no Dec 11, 2022

Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down

Within basketball slang, the term “bricked” is used when someone badly misses a shot. A bricked phone, computer, or gaming console refers to when a device – typically after unauthorised modification – no longer can boot or power on. Bricked effectively means complete and utter failure, unless you add the word “up” after it – … ContinuedThe post Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ad if you will Jun 19, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer

EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you Time+Tide
Oct 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you

EDITOR’S PICK: The home of Time+Tide is Melbourne, Australia. Unfortunately, this year Victoria’s state capital earned the regrettable title of the “world’s most locked down city” after enduring six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic. The lockdown finally ended last Friday and the city’s beleaguered inhabitants are now looking forward to enjoying … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet It’s no secret Jul 12, 2021

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet

It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? Time+Tide
Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much Time+Tide
Swatch Apr 17, 2021

Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much

Sometimes a professional rivalry gets personal. Grievances build up, eyes narrow and suddenly it all explodes into a fireball of drama and animosity. Something like that is now raging between Apple and Swatch in a long-running feud that, from the outside at least, seems petty, vindictive and wildly entertaining.   The two companies just keep … ContinuedThe post Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Mar 5, 2021

UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection

Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 5177 Dec 26, 2019

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel

Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, (a very late) March 2018 Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2018

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, (a very late) March 2018

Editor’s note: Full disclosure, this one slipped past the keeper in those hectic pre-Basel days. So to all of you people eagerly awaiting your dose of Spotted! (I know you’re out there), I’m sorry. But you know what, it might be late, but it’s still great. And with that, over to Andy. My March ‘Spotted … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, (a very late) March 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MY WATCH STORY: Dane’s Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin Aug 30, 2016

MY WATCH STORY: Dane’s Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo

It’s not often you see a Linde Werdelin in Australia – many people haven’t even heard of the brand, never mind seen one – so when we came across a Melbourne-based collector with one, we were excited. When we spoke, Dane Stokes, who describes himself on his insta feed (@the_watch_vault) as a ‘watch collector and … ContinuedThe post MY WATCH STORY: Dane’s Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moonphase Deployant
A. Lange & Sohne Feb 15, 2016

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moonphase

A. Lange & Söhne releases the Saxonia Moonphase at the recent SIHH 2016. As fervent fans of moonphase timepieces, this piece spiked our interest. Lange's specialty German engineering and age perfected finishing art are all evident in this timepiece. A notable Lange signature to the otherwise predictable moonphase layout is the large date display at 12, above the brand inscription. The famous outsize date is a style-defining facet of A. Lange & Söhne watches. It was first showcased in 1994, together with the SAXONIA model.

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches

When I was about a year into teaching myself electric guitar in high school, I couldn’t dream of a better job than working in a music store. To be surrounded by a huge array of instruments that I would usually be staring at online, tinkering with electronics and fixing vintage gear just sounded like pure … ContinuedThe post How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names

Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy… Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2021

Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy…

Though I try to fight it, I can’t help but divide my collection into categories with accompanying check boxes; dress, diver, military etc. Many say this is a terrible way to collect, yet more than anything, I love how this forces me to experience different styles and aesthetics that I normally would not. Furthermore, in … ContinuedThe post Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off Time+Tide
May 22, 2021

Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off

Five years ago, Thor Svaboe got in touch with a Singaporean brand called Zelos to enquire about buying a bronze-cased Hammerhead diver with a meteorite dial. Being a piece of asteroid that exploded millions of years old and subsequently plummeted to earth, a meteorite is, of course, an extremely rare material. But this cosmic exclusivity … ContinuedThe post Want crazy value and creativity? Your next watch should be a microbrand – here are 5 brands to start you off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? Look Nov 4, 2020

Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore?

Look, we get it. Waitlists are frustrating, and watches are commanding higher values and premiums than ever before. But this has to be a new low. A Romanian couple has been caught red-handed, or rose-gold handed, attempting to steal a Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold from Audemars Piguet worth £67,000 GBP from venerated department … ContinuedThe post Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.