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Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho” Oct 31, 2024

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s

One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...

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Bremont Partners with Jimmy Chin on a Pair of Limited Edition Terra Nova Chronographs Worn & Wound
Bremont Partners Oct 28, 2024

Bremont Partners with Jimmy Chin on a Pair of Limited Edition Terra Nova Chronographs

Bremont has undergone a drastic brand transformation in the last year or so, moving away from what many would consider their rather reserved British design language to something more daring and youthful. The Terra Nova could really be considered the focal point of this transition, a design nobody was expecting, with its oval cushion case, large stylized Arabic numerals, and sub-dials rivaling the contrast found on some of the most die-hard chronographs on the market.  During one of the busiest watch release times of the year, Bremont has quietly unveiled two new variants of the Terra Nova in collaboration with renowned climber, explorer, and photographer Jimmy Chin. One with a full 18ct rose gold case limited to only 15 pieces, and one with rose gold accents limited to 100 pieces. The design of these watches is also inspired by military pocket watches from the 20th century, giving the watch a nostalgic exterior appearance but with the capabilities one would expect from a feature packed tool watch.  While I found the Terra Nova Power Reserve to be a rather polarizing design when I had a chance to go hands-on with one earlier this year, I feel that this chronograph version brings a level of organization to the dial and case not found on the other variants – with the full gold and gold accented appearance highlighting these aspects in a positive way. Bremont decided on the BE-50AV caliber to power this watch, which is actually based on the ETA 7750 and heavily modified to...

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Watches And Manga On Monday Morning - The New Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Fratello
Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Oct 14, 2024

Watches And Manga On Monday Morning - The New Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer

Have you ever heard of Grendizer and Spazer? Grendizer, also known as Goldorak, is a giant monster robot that connects and synchronizes with Spazer, a flying saucer that enables the robot to fly. FYI, the robot and flying saucer are characters in the 1970s Japanese manga and anime series UFO Robot Grendizer. How do I […] Visit Watches And Manga On Monday Morning - The New Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer to read the full article.

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Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore SJX Watches
Oct 11, 2024

Exhibition: 30 Years of the Lange 1 in Singapore

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 30th anniversary of arguably its most famous wristwatch with an exhibition in Singapore. 30 Years of the Lange 1 will take place in ION Orchard October 24-29, 2024. Besides showcasing significant Lange 1 models, the exhibition also encompasses demonstrations by a master engraver from the Lange manufacture in Glashütte. The event is open to the public but registration is required. A cornerstone of the German brand since it was revived in 1994, the Lange 1 is defined by an orderly, yet asymmetrical dial with an outsized date and power reserve. The design instantly distinguished itself from practically everything else on the market at the time and became the “face” of the Lange 1. The exhibition will present the many variations of the Lange 1 introduced over the years, starting with the original yellow gold model of 1994. Also on show will be the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” series, as well as less common models like the Lange 1 “Luminous”, which is not part of the now-famous Lumen series and instead was originally conceived as a sporty Lange watch. Present daily at the exhibition will be an artisan from Lange’s engraving department, which is responsible for the hand-engraved balance cocks found in all Lange movements. Armed with a fine-tipped burin, the artisan will demonstrate the art of engraving, just as it is done at the manufacture in Glashütte. Finally, the exhibition will also debut video interviews of Lange owne...

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Brew Launches the New Metric Star Worn & Wound
Brew Launches Oct 10, 2024

Brew Launches the New Metric Star

Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot).  The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

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Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

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H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration Worn & Wound
H. Moser Aug 30, 2024

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration

If you had any doubts that the collaboration frenzy that has gripped the watch world has cooled, the first day of Geneva Watch Days may have gone a long way toward silencing that particular intrusive thought. Not only did we see a formal alliance between Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro that we told you about yesterday, but Moser, one of our favorite high end independents, and Studio Underd0g, one of our favorite affordable independents, joined forces in an unexpected way. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit 03Series play to each brand’s unique strengths, and reveal that while it might seem like an odd match on paper, these brands really do have a lot in common.  Let’s look at the perpetual calendar first. The stainless steel Endeavour case measures 42mm in diameter and is a very wearable 12.8mm tall. The dial has a blissful, tropical quality to it, dominated by a solid gold base dial and a lacquered purple surround. It runs, of course, on the HMC manufacture caliber 800, which is simply one of the best perpetual calendar movements in the game, providing more information at a glance you are likely to realize at first.  The Passion Fruit 03Series chronograph could be the Endeavour’s twin separated at birth – it makes use of the same color combinations but transposes them to a chronograph layout. It bears a lot of similarities to the original Studio Underd0g chronos, and the “passion fruit” theme feels like someth...

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Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Aug 12, 2024

Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer

Ask any auto enthusiast how important their weekend drive time is to them, and you’ll likely hear responses with adjectives like: special, critical, personal, and even sacred. It’s all about setting aside a moment to be one with the road. But it is also about making some time to reset yourself for the week ahead. This can certainly be accomplished behind the wheel of your favorite automobile, but this important ritual of resetting yourself each week can happen in various ways-as long as it clears the mind and revs the soul. Citizen is celebrating this special drive time with a new limited edition chronograph based on their original Bullhead from 1973. This time they’re leveraging that all important concept of strength-to-weight ratio to the world of racing by making it in their proprietary Super Titanium case material. The all-new Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer is that useful reminder and an ideal copilot for this vital weekly reset. The post Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Four New References Aug 9, 2024

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection

Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series.  Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...

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The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds) Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features Jul 22, 2024

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds)

At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...

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Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain Almost Jul 22, 2024

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain

Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...

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Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin e “Cornes de Vache” Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer

I’ll be honest, I started off my experience with the new Viajero coming from a pretty far off and distant place. No, not some cool and remote corner of the world, but as a person who was largely unfamiliar with both Haim as a brand and also the concept of a worldtimer. While I have a GMT in my personal collection, the idea of tracking several time zones via a worldtimer never seemed like something on my radar. Am I classy enough for this? Is a worldtimer even worth the typically large price tag that they command? I remember seeing an Omega worldtimer that was pretty cool…oh right, that’s pushing $10k and not exactly at the top of my spend-ten-thousand-dollars-on-a-watch list.  When the Haim Viajero came across my desk, the first thing I thought was how interesting it is to get a worldtimer complication for a fair amount under a thousand bucks, and that’s exactly what the watch accomplishes. Pack your carryon and prepare for a few layovers, we’re going worldtiming. Case A 38.5mm diameter is a pretty nice spot to be if you’re a watch case. It often hits that goldilocks “just right” feeling, especially on my 6.75” wrist. At 45.5mm lug-to-lug and12mm tall, the watch is firmly in mid-sized territory. The Viajero is largely circular from the top down, featuring lugs that borrow heavily from the celebrated Vacheron Constantine “Cornes de Vache”. The result is nice and clean, and it looks as though the sharp, yet curved lugs are holding up the case in an ele...

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The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 5, 2024

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide

There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase.  All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...

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Paradise Found: Exploring Van Cleef & Arpels’ Automatons SJX Watches
Jun 24, 2024

Paradise Found: Exploring Van Cleef & Arpels’ Automatons

In 1906, Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, united not only in matrimony but also in an unbridled passion for the art of jewellery, laid the foundations of what would become Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). As the firm grew in stature and acclaim, it became clear that the founders’ vision extended beyond the realm of high jewellery. Like other storied makers before them, such as the renowned house of Fabergè, they ventured into the worlds of objet d’art and horology, sometimes blending the two, where the measuring of time transcended the ordinary and entered the realm of the extraordinary. The Varuna model The objects crafted by VC&A; during the early decades of the 20th century extend beyond conventional boundaries, offering a canvas for fulfilling unusual special orders. One such emblematic example is the scale model of the Varuna, a yacht commissioned by Eugene Higgins, a New York millionaire at the turn of the last century. In enamelled gold, the vessel gracefully rests on a sea of sculpted jasper mounted on an ebony base. Its funnel is an aesthetic marvel and its bell, functional, echoing the era’s sophisticated craftsmanship. Although the jewellery house has long since passed into the ownership of Swiss luxury group Richemont, at its heart lies the same philosophy that imagines the world as it should be - a paradise in the universal sense - one overflowing with happiness and boundless imagination. This has shaped the whimsical, elegant collections of the brand...

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Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK Worn & Wound
Casio s own nursery comes Jun 5, 2024

Introducing the MT-G Diffuse Nebula, the Latest Colorful Creation from G-SHOCK

According to NASA, a nebula is a giant cloud of dust and gas in space. Some nebulae come from the gas and dust thrown out by the explosion of a dying star, such as a supernova. Other nebulae are regions where new stars are beginning to form. For this reason, some nebulae are called “star nurseries”, and from Casio’s own nursery comes a brand-new MT-G model inspired by this very phenomenon. The Diffuse Nebula MTGB3000DN1A is their latest high end creation, combining metal materials with resin in a colorful package with all the durability you would expect in any G-SHOCK. The Diffuse Nebula MT-G displays a mesmerizing array of colors. From the intense blue and purple of the ion-plated stainless-steel bezel and multi-colored dial components, to the striking rose gold crown and screws. The attention to detail extends beyond the case, as the soft urethane band is a mixed color rather than a single tone, and the buckle and keeper are both purple IP coated.  But this watch is not just about looks – it’s still very much a G-SHOCK. It features a Dual Core Guard structure that protects its module in a carbon fiber reinforced shell and encloses the exterior in metal components. In this structure, the case back incorporates integrated lugs, securing the band and guarding the crown and buttons found along the case flank. All of this helps reduce the overall thickness and achieves a more compact, slimmer profile, which measures a svelte 12.1mm from the bottom of the case back ...

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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only May 2, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024”

The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...

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Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

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Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

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Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model Worn & Wound
Norqain Doubles Down Apr 12, 2024

Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model

When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One.  You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...

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[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW002 Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber.  The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic.  The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...

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Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option To Black Bay Lineup Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option Apr 9, 2024

Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option To Black Bay Lineup

At this point, I've gotta say that I'm still glad the 41mm Tudor Black Bay lineup is still kicking around. Last year we got versions with updates to the bracelet and METAS certification. This is still an important collection for Tudor and it shows. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024 Tudor has announced the addition of a new monochrome colorway. If you're the kind of person that simply can't stand faux vintage gilt and color tones, this might be the one for you-if you also like the larger size. The best part is that we still get the Master Chronometer movement, which is starting to look like more of a gold standard across several Tudor models.

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