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Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SPB445 Jun 25, 2024

Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet?

One of the things that makes Seiko such an interesting brand is that it’s not afraid to celebrate its Japanese-ness. This is most commonly expressed through the brand’s dials, which frequently pay homage to different elements of Japanese nature or culture. Some of the best of these are their Presage Arita Porcelain pieces, which feature … ContinuedThe post Is the Seiko Presage SPB445 the best Arita Porcelain dial watch yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures) Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 Jun 18, 2024

Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures)

In February of 2022, Oris and Chronos, WatchTime’s sister publication, released a limited-edition watch together. The 38mm stainless steel Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 had a blue vignette dial. It was the first time the Divers Sixty-Five became available with the new movement in a 38mm case. But as there were only 200 made, it was […] Visit Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures) to read the full article.

A Traditional Porcelain Dial for the Seiko Presage SPB445 SJX Watches
Seiko Presage SPB445 Seiko’s Presage Jun 18, 2024

A Traditional Porcelain Dial for the Seiko Presage SPB445

Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship Series is all about dials finished with traditional artisanal techniques from urushi lacquer to enamel matched with affordable price tags. That continues with the Presage Craftsmanship Arita Porcelain Dial SPB445, a time-only watch with a 24-hour indicator. Initial thoughts The Presage Craftsmanship models in general are easy to like because they have classic styling, affordable prices, and unusually fancy dials for the price point. The SPB445 is exactly that, but visibly improved over earlier generations of the model. The dial is a little bit more elaborate with a recessed sector that delineates the chapter ring for the hours, while the case has been reworked to be more refined in terms of style. It’s still a fairly thick watch relative to the design at 12.5 mm high, but the new case helps with that. The only thing I would change is the 24-hour indicator, which isn’t really useful and interrupts the clean layout of the dial. At US$1,900, the new Presage is priced almost identically to the equivalent model from four years ago – despite the upgrades – and remains a good value proposition. An affordable artisanal watch The dial in the SPB445 is a bright, nearly-pure white porcelain with a clear glaze layer on top that is known as hakuji. Seiko once again turned to Shingama Kiln, a porcelain maker established in 1830 that’s still run by the founding family. Located in Arita, a town on Kyushu historically known for its fine porcelain,...

Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s Latest May 29, 2024

Louis Erard’s Latest is a Regulator with a Traditional Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard has recently collaborated with Donzé Cadrans, a veteran in the enamel dials field since 1972. As a first for Erard, the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel model is adorned for the first time with a traditional grand feu enamel dial. This partnership shows an expansion for the Swiss brand into new territory – and done with impeccable taste.  The use of grand feu enamel here marries technical precision and artisan craftsmanship. Each dial has to be made by hand, involving a meticulous process where layers of enamel are applied and fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C. This technique not only ensures vibrant and long-lasting colors but also demands an exceptional level of skill and patience, as even the slightest imperfection can require the entire piece to be redone. The result is a unique and exquisite timepiece, where no two dials are exactly alike, showcasing the harmony between tradition and innovation in watchmaking. The Le Régulateur model has an ivory-colored grand feu dial against the polished stainless steel case, giving a classic look for just about any occasion. The dial also features an hour and seconds counter subdials stacked at both the 12 and 6 o’clock mark. The colors are offset with a vibrant blue that both contrasts and marries the look together. With an automatic movement running on a Sellita SW266-1 calibre, you’ll have no trouble keeping time with this watch. The Régulateur is pulled together with a grey grained cal...

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! Time+Tide
Nomos has Apr 28, 2024

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!

Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Grand Seiko SLGH021, Featuring an All New Dial Texture and a Genbi Valley Inspired Shade of Green Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH021 Featuring Apr 17, 2024

Hands-On with the Grand Seiko SLGH021, Featuring an All New Dial Texture and a Genbi Valley Inspired Shade of Green

We’ve already brought you news on what are likely the highest profile releases from Grand Seiko this year: the all new SLGW002 and SLGW003, the SBGC275 with an amazing dial that is only red some of the time, and, of course, a new Kodo. But there’s one more Grand Seiko novelty that caught our attention, the SLGH021. This is another reference in the rapidly expanding Evolution 9 Collection and features an all new dial texture from Grand Seiko in a color that will be familiar to fans of a highly sought after limited edition from a few years ago. The watches in the so-called Genbi Valley trilogy from 2021 have been collector favorites since the moment they were announced at the Couture show in Las Vegas. The different expressions of green in those dials were an immediate hit, and now Grand Seiko has gone back to the Genbi Valley for inspiration for this latest reference. The light green color of this dial is meant to evoke the scenery along the Iwai River that created the gorge now known as the Genbi Valley, which has been given a designation as a Place of Scenic Beauty in Japan.  For Grand Seiko collectors the truly exciting aspect of this release is the new dial texture. The molded pattern has a chaotic and almost organic quality to it, with distinctive small ridges throughout that look like crinkled paper, or confetti. In our meeting with Grand Seiko at Wathes & Wonders I found myself coming back to this reference over and over again – the dial catches the light in a...

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGC275 Apr 15, 2024

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial

Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog.  Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Mar 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to get that extra-large coffee this morning because we have a special showdown for you! It is the battle of the Moonwatches. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you could have seen this one coming from a mile away. Today, Jorg will defend the recently introduced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial

Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...