Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Gave Its Most Important Dive Watch An Overdue Refresh
The updated Seiko Marinemaster HBF001 and HBF002 models bring a new movement, ceramic bezel, and real upgrades. Here's what stands out.
Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fratello
Oracle Time Magazine To Host Its Sophomore Hands On Horology Event This June In London
Oracle Time has announced its second watch event for the enthusiast community. Hands On Horology will take place on the 13th of June, 2026, at Protein Studios, Shoreditch, London, UK. Showcasing over 45 brands, from independents to globally recognized watchmakers, the event will have something for everyone. There will also be ample opportunities to place […] Visit Oracle Time Magazine To Host Its Sophomore Hands On Horology Event This June In London to read the full article.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases
Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house ‘flyer’ GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Greubel Forsey's Final Balancier Convexe S², In A Black And White Ceramic Limited Edition
A lightweight send-off to the sportiest version of Greubel Forsey's highly finished work.
Monochrome
First Look – Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue
Collaborations between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein are easy to spot by now, and the new Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue fit right in. Over the past few years, the duo has worked across regulators, tourbillons, and more playful complications, always built around Silberstein’s mix of bold colours and simple geometric shapes. It is […]
Monochrome
Introducing – TAOS Unveils “Génèse” and “Odonata”
Launched in 2024 in Geneva, TAOS is born out of a renowned Geneva-based atelier led by Olivier Vaucher. Bringing together some 40 highly skilled artisans, this Atelier, which works behind the scenes for some of the most prestigious names in fine watchmaking, can pride itself on an exceptional artistic heritage. On the eve of the major […]
Time+Tide
A GMT with a difference, Tedoro unveils its limited edition, mother-of-pearl Harmony 39 Sarab
The Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab has elements that collectors love: a stone dial, an integrated bracelet, a GMT complication – and just $785.The post A GMT with a difference, Tedoro unveils its limited edition, mother-of-pearl Harmony 39 Sarab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Breguet No. 160 Montre d’Or
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s No. 160 exists first as legend. The standard account describes a secret commission for Marie Antoinette, incomplete when she faced execution, requiring forty-four years to finish. Theft, recovery, mystery, and royal romance: the narrative contains all the necessary elements of mythology. Yet this fame is recent. From its 1783 inscription in the order books through the 19th century, the watch remained largely unknown outside the Breguet workshop but for a few private collectors. Only when Sir David Lionel Salomons acquired it, nearly 140 years later, did the wider horological world learn of its existence, thanks to his careful cataloging and the watch’s public exhibition in 1923. Salomons gave credit to Breguet’s mastery on a scale previously unrecognised, establishing No. 160 as the supreme example of complicated watchmaking and the prime masterpiece of its maker. Sir David Lionel Salomons’s 1921 work on Breguet and the collection he assembled seems to be the first source to mention Marie Antoinette. Image SJX composite – Sotheby’s Subsequently, many sources have reported that the commission demanded every known watch complication and that no time constraints or limits were placed on its design or cost. The workshop records, however, tell a story that differs from both obscurity and legend. No. 160 appears in the 1783 order books as three words: “No. 160, Montre d’Or.” The entry stands alone, anonymous, unexplained and without cont...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Eco-Drive Turns 50 and Citizen Is Celebrating With a Wild Titanium Watch
The new Citizen Eco-Drive Photon pairs Super Titanium construction with a dial that creates color through light alone.
Time+Tide
King Seiko debuts 3 new VANAC models in FULL TITANIUM
King Seiko just debuted three new VANAC models with titanium cases and bracelets, bringing the line firmly into 2026.The post King Seiko debuts 3 new VANAC models in FULL TITANIUM appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New releases from Breitling, Squale, Richard Mille and more
A week that brought us new ventures from old names, final runs of creativity, and dominant displays of watchmaking all round. The post New releases from Breitling, Squale, Richard Mille and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde
A closer look at the Breitling Navitimer Tribute to Concorde, exploring its movement, size, daily wear experience, design details, and how it compares to other modern chronographs.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Squale Just Launched a No-Nonsense 37mm Dive Watch
The Squale Sub-37 Legend brings a 37mm case, sapphire box crystal, and Old Radium lume to the brand's growing dive watch lineup.
Time+Tide
Awake dives into Atlantis with a mesmerising blue Sơn Mài dial
Awake draws inspiration from the mythical underwater city of Atlantis for its latest handmade fumé blue dial.The post Awake dives into Atlantis with a mesmerising blue Sơn Mài dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering
The King Seiko VANAC blends a bold 1970s-inspired design with Seiko’s modern 8L45 movement and a new vintage-style leather strap. What We Love: The textured dials with the gold coloured accents The angular vintage-style case The proportions and size for ease of wearing What We Don’t: The movement accuracy could be better at this price point The leather straps could not be up everyone’s alley The clasp on the strap doesn’t feel as solid as the watch itself. Overall Rating: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 7.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The King Seiko VANAC is a watch designed to talk to the collector market, and as such, the VANAC name is one that long-time Seiko collectors will recognise straight away. Today, the modern re-interpretations of the VANAC stay relatively true to the original models, but of course, with modern materials and standards. They’re instantly recognisable with those in the know, and do harken back to a time where the Avant-Garde was becoming more the industry norm across certain collections. So, before we get into this review, let’s take a short walk back in time… King Seiko’s VANAC Line Returns In A New Lease On Life A Brief History Of King Seiko’s VANAC First introduced in 1972, the VANAC line represented a bold departure from the more traditional King Seiko dress watches. Designed primarily for the Japanese market, VANAC watches were intended to be Vibrant, Active, New, Advanced, Comfortable — the meaning...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Merci Instruments Launches Six New Versions of its Geometric 'Beaumarchais'
The 1970s-inspired case design returns in a larger collection for the brand.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Celebrates 50 Years of Eco-Drive with a Hand-Dyed Washi Dial
I've come close to pulling the trigger on a few of Citizen's higher-end Eco-Drive watches over the years, and each time I talked myself out of it. Not because the watches weren't impressive, but because the right one never quite lined up with the moment. Now, Citizen is making the decision a little harder. The brand has just announced "The Citizen" Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition (ref. AQ4091-56W), marking five decades since it introduced the first solar-powered analogue watch back in 1976.
Worn & Wound
Is Timothée Chalamet How Indie Watches Enter Pop Culture?
I missed the Academy Awards on Sunday for the first time in, oh I dunno, 30 years? It’s a cliche to say that something is “my Super Bowl” but the Oscars really are. It was more than a little strange to catch up on the awards conversation the way most people do these days: through social media clips, podcasts, and, in our little community, celebrity watch spotting. The Oscars are known as “Hollywood’s biggest night” but it could be argued, based on the volume of press releases in my inbox, that it’s the watch industry’s biggest night as well. Worn & Wound doesn’t typically cover celebrity watch spotting – we think it’s all a little silly given that most of the watches you see on wrists are placed there by stylists or are simply contractual obligations. But I hope you’ll indulge me a bit because I have some thoughts on what we’ve seen recently from one of the most talked about movie stars of the last several years, by cinephiles and watch enthusiasts alike, and I think it could be a watershed moment in how independent watches enter the cultural conversation. I’m talking of course about Timothée Chalamet, star of Marty Supreme and three time Academy Award nominee. Chalamet has made news among the watch spotting crowd for the way he has casually worn some of the highest end and most sought after timepieces over the course of the last year. On Oscar night, he was wearing an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, a six figure watch introduced less than a year ag...
Monochrome
Introducing – Volumes by Simon LeFrancois Explores Shapes and Materials
Indie watchmaking is very much on the rise, and we see a surge of cool new watches high and low. From the ever-intriguing industrial wonders of Otsuka Lotec to the ultra-artisanal The Owl by L’Atelier Bernards, it all seems to find its audience across the globe. Yet some of these low-volume watchmakers are challenging to […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are In-House Movements Overrated? Lessons from 2 Tudors and an IWC
Are in-house watch movements still worth it? Real-world ownership reveals the hidden tradeoffs and why a proven alternative may make more sense.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Daytona Alternatives In 2026
Another Friday, another list. For this week’s Top 5, we look at another Rolex classic. The Cosmograph Daytona is one of the brand’s most iconic pieces in the watch world. The stainless steel versions of the racing chronograph are notoriously difficult to source through a Rolex dealer, and pre-owned prices are generally higher than retail. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Daytona Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Portrait – Talking To Daizoh Makihara, AHCI Candidate And LV Watch Prize Finalist
Japanese culture is full of superbly interesting and ancient crafts, which every now and then find their way into a watch. Some of the best-known examples are Urushi lacquering, Washi paper, and Arita porcelain, but there are dozens of other crafts deeply embedded in the country’s history and tradition. Japanese independent watchmaker and AHCI-member Daizoh […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 mm
Audemars Piguet expands its stone‑dial lineup with the new Royal Oak Self-Winding 37 mm and 41 mm in yellow‑gold featuring malachite dials, continuing the brand’s cautious re-exploration of trendy stone dials. Initial thoughts Last month Bad Bunny, the most-streamed musician in the western hemisphere, took the field for the Super Bowl LX halftime show wearing this yellow gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm. A design as recognisable as any in watchmaking, worn on the wrist of the “King of Latin Trap” in front of over a hundred million viewers - a significant marketing coup for Audemars Piguet. It was also an implicit endorsement from Bad Bunny’s stylist Storm Pablo, who procured the watch within days of its announcement. Bad Bunny during the Apple Music Super Bowl LX halftime show. Image – Apple Pricing remains surprisingly reasonable, with the 37 mm pegged to the same price as the turquoise-dialled sibling from a few years ago, while the 41 mm model is priced just 4% higher than a regular production Royal Oak in pink gold. That’s a large step up in absolute terms, but that comes with the (price) territory. It is important to point out that despite the premiums brands often attach to stone dials, most are not particularly expensive to make. When it comes to malachite, the raw material cost is negligible, with African mines in and around the Copperbelt producing gemstone-quality malachite by the literal ton. Audemars Piguet made the right choice by avoiding t...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Wish List
Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we’re talking about what we’d want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It’s always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be released. SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX’s own sold-out collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement
A common critique leveled at Seiko over these last few years is that they’ve abandoned the affordable enthusiast dive watch market and have been creeping toward a higher priced product. Honestly, it’s fair. Those of us of a certain age can fondly remember the days when an SKX diver could be had for a few hundred bucks, and it basically stood alone in the Venn diagram of pedigree, dive watch bona fides, enthusiast credibility, and affordability. The fact is, there’s a lot of competition for affordable divers these days, much of it driven by the popularity of a handful of key Seiko references. So it’s no wonder that they’ve sought to expand their footprint elsewhere and make a higher end, more expensive product. What often gets lost in these conversations is that the higher priced Seiko divers are actually very good dive watches that still cover much of that hypothetical Venn diagram, perhaps leaning a little further away from affordability. Seiko recently announced a handful of new references and while many of us hoped a truly affordable SKX alternative might be in the mix, they’ve once again debuted a new diver at a higher rung of their pricing ladder. The highlight for collectors and serious Seiko fans will likely be the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch (the official Seiko naming conventions are always a bit cumbersome). Yes, this is yet another mostly historically accurate take on the first ever diver rated to 300 meters of water r...
Worn & Wound
A Legend is Born: Squale Just Dropped a New 37mm Diver
If you have been following us for a while, you are likely well versed in Squale’s divers, vintage-inspired designs, and limited edition runs. The brand has quietly been a leader in the realm of dive watches since the 60s with a cult following from hardcore dive watch nerds. In the past decade in particular, Squale has been getting more and more traction and recognition. In 2019, the brand notched its 60th anniversary and with that, introduced a new collection: the Sub-39. This limited edition fittingly paid homage to Squale’s early 1960s divers, using an original prototype with a 39mm case as reference. Following its success, the brand ultimately made the Sub-30 a permanent collection, upping the ante with COSC-certification and complications like a GMT. Today, we get the next evolution with the Sub-37 Legend. Focusing on the brand’s core tenants – proportions, function, and character – the new slightly sized down 37mm diver emphasizes form over function in a way that is faithful to the golden age of diving, an era when watches were designed to perform rather than to impress. Beginning with the dial, you have a fairly quintessential execution in matte black with a sapphire glass-box crystal reminiscent of vintage plexiglass while ensuring durability and optimal dial legibility. Visibility remains at the forefront of this utilitarian design with both the dial and hands treated with SuperLumiNova Old Radium. Framing the dial is a clean, highly readable unidirection...
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology
Blancpain, founded in the Swiss village of Villeret in 1735, has been making timepieces for almost 300 years, but perhaps its most impactful contribution to wristwatch history was relatively recent - and began its heralded life as a military tool rather than a luxury item. In 1953, Blancpain was headed by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. Here we will take a look at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, a more everyday take on the iconic diver. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: A Historic Divers’ Watch"] The watch, called the Fifty Fathoms, had a 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - and it was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the first watch to include a lockable bezel with dive-time scale that rotated in only one direction. This practical and potentially life-saving innovation prevented a diver from acciden...
Monochrome
Introducing – Awake Son Mai Silver Leaf “Atlantis Blue”
Awake, the young Parisian-based indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019, is a keen advocate of sustainability and fosters an eco-friendly approach to watchmaking. Introduced in 2024, Awake’s Son Mai collection is a fitting spokesperson for the brand’s philosophy and features handcrafted lacquered dials created by Vietnamese artisans. Combining minimalist design to highlight the […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Citizen's New 'Photon' Celebrates 50 Years of Eco-Drive With An Attractive Physics Demonstration
With a Super Titanium case and bracelet and an eye-catching dial, Citizen brings a new design and 12-month power reserve to the lineup.
Hodinkee
Fifty Years Illuminated
The CITIZEN reflects Eco-Drive’s light-powered craft and precision.