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PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner’ up Apr 27, 2021

PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch

Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary Apr 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver

Whenever I am asked about the brands to get into when you’re just starting a collection, Seiko and their value-driven offerings are always at the top of the list. The vertically integrated manufacturer has a deep understanding of watchmaking, building all of the components in house to create robust, reliable and eye-pleasing designs that leverage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 140th Anniversary is a super-crisp modern diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 27, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...

Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Anyone who follows Apr 27, 2021

Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex

Anyone who follows the fight game knows that Georges St-Pierre is a legend. Not just for his remarkable UFC record of 26 wins against just 2 losses, but also because in a sport that is sometimes overtaken by trash-talking bravado, GSP is a gentleman in every sense of the word. He maintained a laser-like focus … ContinuedThe post Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Remontet Introduces the Time Capsule SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Apr 26, 2021

Remontet Introduces the Time Capsule

Located in the town of Renaison, a five-hour drive south of Paris, Horlogerie V Remontet is named after its founder, Valentin Remontet. A young watchmaker who who spent three years at TAG Heuer and then Breguet before striking out on his own, Mr Remontet started his brand with conventional, round watches powered by ETA movements. He has since moved on to watches that are inventive and modern in style and construction. Mr Remontet’s latest is the Time Capsule, a avant-garde watch that has an unorthodox regulator-style display along with unconventional hourstriker. Initial thoughts With the fashion of the day in niche independent watchmaking being classical watchmaking with a heavy Breguet numerals or a “sector” dial, Mr Remontet’s watch is decidedly bold – and also impressive. Its aesthetic is highly technical, and matched by genuinely creative mechanics. The movement is clearly an original construction, even if it does use some components from common calibres. The style is certainly not for everyone – I find it a bit too extreme – but the fresh, bold nature of the Time Capsule is impressive. And the €17,000 price, which is about US$21,000, is fair considering the work in both development and manufacture. Preserving a memory Mr Remontet works along, and fabricates much of the watch himself – including the gaskets for the case – with some components produced by a French micro-machining specialist in micro machining. As a result, Mr Remontet says about 90...

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2021

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not. Initial thoughts On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue. The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019. But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-g...

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow Apr 26, 2021

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow

The new Longines Silver Arrow constitutes a comeback for the functional steel dress watch, a watch that in its heyday would simply be a sporty everyday timepiece. It presents a reassuring throwback to the quieter times of the 1950s, a time when even half a day at the office would mean dressing up in a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Apr 25, 2021

Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review

Pros: Unlike previous models, Full skeleton on display – best one to date Bang for buck Skeleton watchBeautifully executed – Cleanly laid out dial and attention to detail on the bridges Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8/10Wearability – 8.5/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  Cons: Some may miss the second handSome may not appreciate having no hour IndicatorsCaseback is fully blacked out, the rotor isn’t as clearly visible Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton watch comes in the form of the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212. Skeleton watches present a unique interpretation of watchmaking, where sometimes everything is removed down to the bare minimum to showcase nothing but just the movement and the time.  There is something about a skeleton watch that just grabs attention. Whether it’s the human curiosity to want to know what goes on behind closed doors or whether it’s the fascination of seeing all the intricate pieces come together to create something complex yet beautiful, skeletonised timepieces can awaken the watch fanatic in all of us.  This however does not mean that skeleton watches can always be so easy to read. Quite a common pitfall with skeletonised timepieces is that sometimes watchmakers get too caught up in the movement of the watch that they negate being able to read the time. This is mainly due to the fact that the hour indexes and hands can blend in with the movement, which can make it quite hard to read the dial at a ...

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet collection Apr 25, 2021

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection

With my one year anniversary with the Time+Tide team on the horizon, the only drawback has been that the pandemic inhibited all the in-person interaction I really craved. What I love about the watch community is being able to meet up, whether with members of the industry or #watchfam community, and nerd out for hours … ContinuedThe post Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Apr 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

With nearly 40 brands presenting novelties this Watches & Wonders, it can be quite the challenge to present a novelty that stands out amongst the crowd. After speaking with various members of the press, and #watchfam on instagram and clubhouse, it has become abundantly clear that the horological champion of the fair was Jaeger-LeCoultre. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change SJX Watches
Rolex Doing Apr 24, 2021

Rolex Doing Its Part to Battle Climate Change

Two decades after its founding in 1905, Rolex began equipping sportspeople and explorers with waterproof Oyster watches, making possible precision timekeeping under adverse conditions. And it continued as the peace and prosperity of the postwar era in the 1950s encouraged exploration of the heights and depths of the Earth, driving adventurers through snow and water into the pages of history. This era also gave birth to watches like the Explorer, Submariner, and GMT-Master – all watches for professionals who were charting the planet. Today much of the planet has been explored, and it’s no longer a race to the deepest ocean or the tallest mountain, but instead a quest to preserve the planet. Having long been a supporter of exploration, Rolex now backs modern-day explorers who seek to battle climate change. The watchmaker funds scientific expeditions focused on conservation, such as measuring the volume of ice at the North Pole in order to gauge global warming. Since 2019, the ongoing conservation programmes that Rolex supports have been formally come under the Perpetual Planet initiative, the watchmaker’s endeavour to pave the way for a sustainable future. Early explorers Before exploring Rolex’s support for conservation programme, it’s worth revisiting its early participation in exploration. Amongst the most notable was the British Everest Expedition, the 1953 attempt to scale Mount Everest led by Sir John Hunt, a colonel in the British Army. It was a competitiv...

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 23, 2021

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Too often in the realm of celebrity watch spotting we are subject to the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. There is nothing wrong with that, as we all admire and desire watches from those brands. But it is far more interesting … ContinuedThe post Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on how the Reverso became an icon Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier Apr 23, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on how the Reverso became an icon

The world was an immeasurably different place 90 years ago. There were no computers, no mobile phones, no smart watches and no internet. The stockmarket crash of 1929 was still being felt around the world, the Star Spangled Banner was selected as the US national anthem and the Art Deco icon of the Empire State … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on how the Reverso became an icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin like Apr 23, 2021

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni

Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition Apr 22, 2021

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy

The TAG Heuer Monaco is a classic in every sense of the word. I mean, Steve McQueen famously wore it on the silver screen and if you’re looking for an endorsement from the King of Cool, it doesn’t get much better than that. The Monaco has been a collection that has regularly been refreshed in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2523 World Time Apr 22, 2021

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia”

The upcoming spring auction season is bringing with it a surprising number of vintage Patek Philippe world time wristwatches. Christie’s will be offering three of them during its evening sale on May 22, including the famed and unique ref. 1415 HU in platinum that once held the record of most expensive watch in the world when it last sold publicly in 2002 and achieved CHF6.6 million including fees. Phillips, on the other hand, will be offering the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 “Eurasia” publicly for the very first time. Long owned by an Italian collector until it was acquired by the present owner in the mid 1990s, this ref. 2523 is one of just three known with a cloisonné dial bearing the “Eurasia” map – and it is in strikingly fine condition. I put it on my wrist during the preview exhibition, and the watch is gorgeous, crisp, and arguably every dollar of the ten or more million it’ll sell for. The hallowed complication Despite not being amongst the most complicated watches Patek Philippe made in the 20th century, its world-time wristwatches (and also pocket watches) are amongst the brand’s most coveted and valuable timepieces. Well before the platinum ref. 1415 HU set a record in 2002, examples of the ref. 2523 with cloisonné dial were regularly selling for well over US$1 million at auction in the 1990s – and are the inspiration for the today’s world-time models, including the recent ref. 5231J. The fact that the world-time was a favourite of Osvaldo Patr...

Do you want a tourbillon for $100? Here’s how you can get one Time+Tide
Richard Mille ContinuedThe post Do Apr 22, 2021

Do you want a tourbillon for $100? Here’s how you can get one

The tourbillon is a complication that is as lusted after as it is storied. First patented in 1801 by the great Abraham-Louis Breguet, the tourbillon became an important technical feature of precision pocket watches for about a century, before the wristwatch was popularised after World War I. More recently, however, brands such as Richard Mille … ContinuedThe post Do you want a tourbillon for $100? Here’s how you can get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 Apr 22, 2021

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea. However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that. When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about. Initial thoughts The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected. Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky. And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of...

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods?

As the largest brands within the fashion and watch industry wage war on fake luxury knock-offs, why do consumers continue to risk legal action for the mere look of success? While often stereotyped, counterfeit buyers are not a single group, argues Glyn Atwal  an Associate Professor at Burgundy School of Business in France, in this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches Apr 21, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire

One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...