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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Introducing - The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing - The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models

If you have been following French watchmaking lately, chances are you have come across Charlie Paris already. They have a promising catalogue of everyday mechanical watches that do not get too expensive. The brand’s line-up today covers everything from the sporty and travel-ready Concordia GMT Automatic to more classic designs such as the Initial Collection. […]

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection Hodinkee
Breitling Refreshes May 19, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection

What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36.  The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial.  For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers A More Rugged Look In A Larger Size Hodinkee
Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers May 18, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver 59 Offers A More Rugged Look In A Larger Size

What We Know For collectors, the Longines Legend Diver seemingly hit a sweet spot in sizing during its 39mm refresh back in 2023. But, as with many things in life, you can't please 'em all with just one version. So today's new Legend Diver 59 offers a much larger interpretation of the brand's tribute to its 1959 design, in a 42mm model that will surely make a lot of larger wrists happy. It's not the brand's only 42mm Legend Diver, technically speaking, since some older models are still listed in the catalog. But it's the first larger size to have come out since that 2023 refresh. The 42mm case has a thickness of 12.85mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 50.1mm. As customary with the Legend Divers, two crowns sit on the right side of the case, with the one at two o'clock for rotating the internal bezel and the one at four o'clock to wind and set the time. What this new Legend Diver 59 offers as a new design touch comes in the dial. Whereas the current generation Legend Divers sport glossy lacquer dials, this Legend Diver 59 has a matte black grained-texture dial and internal bezel for a more rugged look. Adding to that aesthetic are new sandblasted hands and indices, which are then paired with three-dimensional Super-LumiNova accents in an old radium color. The Legend Diver 59 is COSC-certified, thanks to the ETA-manufactured but exclusive-to-Longines automatic caliber L888.6. It's a distinctly modern caliber, featuring a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 72 hours...

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

The UR-10 Spacemeter Is the Most Traditional Urwerk Yet… Sort Of Fratello
Urwerk Yet… Sort May 16, 2026

The UR-10 Spacemeter Is the Most Traditional Urwerk Yet… Sort Of

Calling an Urwerk traditional feels a bit ridiculous, but here we are. The new UR-10 Spacemeter gets closer to that territory than just about anything the brand has done before. And yes, we did get a traditional Urwerk before we got Grand Theft Auto VI. Sure, Urwerk has used hands in pieces like the EMC […] Visit The UR-10 Spacemeter Is the Most Traditional Urwerk Yet… Sort Of to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition Fratello
Ming because May 16, 2026

Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition

Today has been a long time coming because the new Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition has been on my wrist for over a month! During that period, I’ve been able to put the watch through its paces, and I’m pleased to say that it’s a great option for anyone in the market for a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Synchron Ti300M Poseidon I Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne May 16, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold

Niche Lange collectors, rejoice! The Cabaret is back! Well, sort of. Today, on this fine Saturday, Lange has brought back the Cabaret in its complicated form, with a 50-piece run of the Cabaret Tourbillon in the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy. It is a hefty block of grey and Honeygold, with this rectangular silhouette making its first appearance after a 30-piece handwerskskunst run in 2021. The price point, like many of the past Cabaret Tourbillon editions, sits in the mid-six-figure range at around €300,000. When the Cabaret Tourbillon was first introduced to the world in 2008, it was quite horologically impressive, adding the world's first hacking tourbillon into the brand's rectangular design from 1997. It might sound quite surprising that a hacking tourbillon had not been produced until 2008, but being able to stop such a large mass like a tourbillon cage is certainly not an easy feat, especially when you require delicate parts to do so, and with the need to navigate around the tourbillon cage itself. After all, you'd need to be able to stop the cage at any orientation it's in, and at any point in the balance wheel's oscillation. So Lange's movement designers set to work and devised a V-shaped spring that would directly halt the balance wheel—not the tourbillon cage. Its V-shape, centered around a rotating pivot at the end of a lever, would mean that one side would make contact with the balance wheel or tourbillon cage post, and pivot the other side of the V i...

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean Fratello
Ming ly ready May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean

Listen up because today, we’re talking about another new brand on Fratello. Briston, a small French brand, was established in 2013, but it’s seemingly ready for the big stage. Frankly, after going hands-on with several of the company’s pieces at Time To Watches in Geneva, I think they’re worth a look. Happily, we start our […] Visit Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5396R-016 Annual May 14, 2026

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase

In 1996, Patek Philippe launched a watch to bridge the gap between its dress watches and perpetual calendars. The brand needed more sales; the Nautilus was not a hype watch yet, so what did Patek do? It launched a classic calendar watch that looked like a perpetual calendar, but it actually was a watch with […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.

The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet AP May 13, 2026

The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet (AP) and Swatch have teamed up to launch the Royal Pop, a series of lanyard-borne pocket swatches in eight pop art-inspired colourways set to hit stores on May 16th. It also debuts new manually wound Sistem 51 movements, including one with small seconds, to capture the pocket watch feel. This could be seen as AP having a little fun on a project set in motion by a Swatch-obsessed former CEO, or long-term thinking to cultivate the next generation of customers. Initial thoughts I imagine ambivalence will define the general reaction to the Royal Pop, as it should. A pop art-inspired pocket Swatch is a challenging product to casual watch buyers and enthusiasts alike. And I mean that as praise — it would have been much easier to go the MoonSwatch or Scuba Fifty Fathoms route, but much less interesting. Ref. SSX03L101N. Case in point, a non-enthusiast friend texted me over the weekend expressing interest in the Royal Pop under the common assumption that it would take after the MoonSwatch. In short, he was expecting a plastic Royal Oak. He was less enthusiastic — but not entirely put off — when I asked him how he’d feel about a manually wound pocket watch. Ref. SSX03R100N. While my favourite watches are overwhelmingly pocket watches (or pocket chronometers), I can’t see myself wearing one regularly, be it a Swatch Pop or a Nicole Nielsen tourbillon. I do, however, see myself attaching an Otg Roz Royal Pop to my keychain or workbag. Considering the recent ...

Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop - The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop May 12, 2026

Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop - The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet

After weeks of teasing, today, we got an unexpected embargo lift on the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop. Only a very few AI mock-ups were somewhat close to what Swatch has just released. And the young guys we saw on TikTok hoping to be sporting a very affordable Royal Oak on the wrist (or […] Visit Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop — The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet to read the full article.

Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Royal Pop Collaboration May 12, 2026

Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch

What We Know The cat is out of the bag on what is likely to be the biggest watch news of the year. The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" just launched, ahead of its official availability on May 16, 2026, at selected Swatch stores. There are no wristwatches here, just eight unique pocket watches in two different styles, cased in brightly colored Royal Oak-shaped bioceramic cases, powered by manually wound mechanical SISTEM51 movements. Eight watches, for each side of the iconic Royal-Oak bezel. All the watches are instantly recognizable as Royal Oak-inspired. They have a "Petite Tapisserie" dial and a Royal Oak octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws. Every watch comes with a 40mm case (without the clip) and measures 44.2mm by 53.2mm when mounted in the clip. The thickness is 8.4mm. The hands and indices on all watches feature Grade-A Super-LumiNova.  The watches can be dropped in your pocket, worn in the pocket, or popped into a holder attached to a calfskin lanyard (in three lengths), attached to a bag, or placed in a removable stand that lets the watch function as a desk clock. Swatch and AP say this will change the way we wear watches, breaking free from the wrist (suggesting the expected wristwatch collaboration is unlikely at the moment). The new Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" comes in two main variants. There's the "Lépine" style, where the crown is at 12 o'clock on the pocket watch, which come in six varieties: Otto Rosso (pink case and dial with red ...

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show" Hodinkee
Ming 29.06 Peep Show What May 12, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show"

What We Know Want to see a magic trick? No, not the kind the Joker pulls in "The Dark Knight," but instead something pretty cool that Ming has cooked up with their new 29.06 "Peep Show." The watches below look markedly different, but the only thing that's changed is the direction the hands point. When Ming Thein showed me this watch last fall, I immediately got what was going on as he turned the crown. If you were doing the same, you'd see that the guilloché dial with a multiphase color-shifting coating (like on the 57.04 "Iris") slowly fades in and out of visibility, turning from a dazzling view to pitch black as the hands move. Any guesses on how it works? Well, it's kind of a trick question, because the hands aren't actually hands. Instead, they're polarized sapphire discs with a hands made of Super-LumiNova X1 fill. The two pieces of sapphire are linearly polarized, so when they're aligned (on top of each other or directly opposite each other), the polarizer lets light in, and you can see that metal disc with color-shifting treatment. As the hands rotate, you see less and less of the dial until it turns black when the two discs are at 90º to each other. When you learn the effect, it's pretty simple, but it's certainly effective in person. All this is in a 29-series case, which is a bit more reserved than the 57-series case. It's made in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, measuring 40mm by 11.8mm, with a 22mm lug width. The case has a 50-meter water resistance. Inside the ...

Watch It: Rolex Releases A Film Celebrating 100 Years Of The Oyster Hodinkee
Rolex Releases May 12, 2026

Watch It: Rolex Releases A Film Celebrating 100 Years Of The Oyster

How do you capture 100 years of the Oyster? That's the question at the center of Rolex's new 23-minute film celebrating the anniversary of one of the most important watches ever made. The film opens with incredible archival footage of Mercedes Gleitze swimming across the English Channel, then moves on to archival footage of many defining moments tied to the Oyster's history—speed records, Everest expeditions, deep-sea exploration, and much more. Most will know these stories, but seeing them presented together really captures the full breadth of what the Oyster has represented over the last century. One of the film's most impressive qualities is its sense of scale. Even something like the Daytona—one of the most iconic watches ever made and a subject that could easily support an entire film on its own—is only one small part of the larger story being told here. More than anything, it underscores just how broad and far-reaching Rolex's history with the Oyster really is. From there, the film transitions into the modern era, highlighting Rolex's ongoing ties to sport, the arts, and scientific exploration. It closes with a look at the brand's Perpetual Planet initiative and Rolex's environmental efforts, both in the field and within its own manufacturing operations, including a closer look at how the company is approaching sustainability in watchmaking.  There are also a few fun details throughout. At one point, the film references precision down to "a fraction of a billi...

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 12, 2026

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated

This year Audemars Piguet (AP) walked into Watches & Wonders Geneva for the first time in seven years, and it did so carrying a word it had not used in public for the better part of a century. The brand had departed the predecessor of the fair, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 alongside Richard Mille, declaring its intention to forge direct relationships with collectors through its own channels and AP Houses rather than through the shared theatre of a trade fair. The return to Geneva in 2026, under CEO Ilaria Resta, was already a signal of strategic realignment, but the word it brought with it made the move more interesting: établisseur. The watches it presented — three of them — each made in very limited numbers by a network of named artisans working within and around the Musée Atelier in Le Brassus, were introduced under the name Atelier des Établisseurs, a project AP described in its launch communications as a revival of the collaborative spirit that had driven the watchmaking industry for generations. The établissage system The framing was historically accurate, as far as it went. The établissage system did shape the Vallée de Joux from the late 18th century onward. Farmers working through the long alpine winters crafted individual components like wheels, bridges, and screws in home workshops, coordinated by an établisseur who assembled the finished watch and brought it to market. The Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Gallets hand-w...

Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition Fratello
Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir May 11, 2026

Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition

Sometimes, you don’t want a color or a fancy finish on your dial, and occasionally, the second version isn’t always better than the first. That must be exactly what Ludovic Barrois from the French watch publication Le Petit Poussoir was thinking. That’s probably why, with his friend Guillaume Laidet, he released the Nivada Grenchen F77 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure Fratello
Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure May 8, 2026

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure

Collaborations in the watch world are nothing new. Usually, we see a watch brand team up with some other company, often resulting in a fairly gimmicky co-branding exercise. That approach doesn’t typically float our boat, to put it mildly. Today, we have something a bit different. What happens when two seemingly incompatible watch companies join […] Visit Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 7, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown

After taking my French lessons in Duolingo for the better part of three years, I’m happy to say that some of those grammar tips are still rolling around in the ol’ noggin when I have to type such names as Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph in Chocolate – hey, if no one else is going to toot my horn, I might as well, right? Now, enough about me. This latest edition from the brand (which, impressively, has been around since 1791) gives the overall appearance of the Laureato model (which, only slightly less impressively, has been around since 1975) a warmer character with a brown hobnail dial, a matching rubber strap, and rose gold details against the slightly colder steel case. The Laureato elements haven’t gone anywhere on this iteration, they’ve just been updated to complement the chocolate tones. The octagonal bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers have all been executed in rose gold. The integrated rubber strap and tonneau-shaped 904L steel case keep the model’s trademark style while working within what Girard-Perregaux has described as “sporty-chic,” a phrase I’m not too fond of, but can’t deny does describe this watch quite well. The real depth and warmth come from the dial itself. Girard-Perregaux uses a brown Clou de Paris hobnail pattern, with matching subdials and rose-gilt baton markers and hands. The rubber strap I briefly mentioned above continues that same Clou de Paris texture, tying the Chocolate colorway together and keeping things in b...

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns May 7, 2026

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics)

What We Know There's just something about the Daniel Roth case that makes for an excellent watch. On the wrist, the ellipsocurvex shape sits comfortably between a round dress watch and a tank, and with the Extra-Plat case (extra-flat, in English) and slightly dropped lugs, it has incredible appeal once you put it on. Which makes it especially hard to convey that in text, but I'll try my best with the newest version that launched today, the Extra Plat Platinum model. I saw the watch a few months ago when the brand also announced the Extra Plat Skeleton, which was impressive in its own way. But I'd been waiting for a white metal Extra Plat since the brand relaunched (even though the price tag was bound to be outside my range).  The Extra Plat Souscription was announced only a little over a year ago, and the new platinum version is already the fourth variant in the lineup (yellow gold for the souscription, rose for the next, the rose gold skeleton, and now this). There are only so many ways you can play with the concept, but the details matter even more because of it. The Souscription, pictured below, had a tonal dial and case with blue printing and hands, a treatment I liked a lot. I actually asked whether the brand planned to take the same approach with the following releases, and the answer, at the time, was no. I think the result is, frankly, a bit more legible. For comparison, I'm showing them all below, and you get a taste of what the front and back look like at the sa...

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bravur May 6, 2026

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph

Bravur, the Swedish watch brand that has developed a very specific niche dedicated to cycling themed watches, has announced their latest in that ongoing series, the Grand Tour Sprinter. To this point, most of Bravur’s cycling watches have been limited releases tied to specific races. A cycling race, it turns out, really lends itself to creative watch design, as it allows a brand like Bravur to take advantage of the unique jersey colors associated with specific races as well as easy to recognize timing and texture nods that cyclists will immediately recognize but would be very subtle (and unobtrusive) for everyone else. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a little different. Rather than taking inspiration from any particular race, the Sprinter pulls from a racing concept and an important individual on any competitive cycling team.  A sprinter on a cycling team plays an important role reserved for the race’s final moments. Over the course of a long race, the sprinter is held back and protected by the rest of the team. Near the end of the race, the sprinter is repositioned with assistance from the rest of the team to make a break for it at the 1 kilometer mark. Timing the sprinter’s final run and orchestrating that moment is critical in a close race.  The Grand Tour Sprinter is a chronograph with many subtle and not-so-subtle nods to cycling and the role of the sprinter that is very much in keeping with previous Bravur watches in the same vein. Like other watches in this serie...

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday Worn & Wound
Rado May 6, 2026

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday

Material innovation is increasingly becoming a core pillar within the watch industry. Whether borrowing and reconfiguring materials from different industries or composing your own from the ground up, it is clear materials matter when it comes to both technical feats and aesthetics achieved in watchmaking today. Sometimes, I like to think of these cutting-edge materials as mile markers on the highway of horology. I am always considering the world 50 or 100 years from now, when the watches of the present will become the watches of yesteryear, when what we consider modern will become vintage. I believe that the application of new materials will be a mark of this era of watchmaking that will serve as a milestone moment in the ever-unfolding history of horology. For Rado, the story starts with a sapphire crystal. While the brand was not the first to use this in place of acrylic or other weaker options, it was among the early adopters. However, Rado took it a step further by patenting a sliding water-sealed mechanism with a tension-fit construction. Here, the thick, faceted sapphire crystal was secured under high pressure into the oval-shaped hard metal case with a specialized gasket, designed to be exceptionally tight. Its effectiveness sparked further curiosity – what if this same scratch resistance and robustness could be applied to other parts of the watch or the watch in its entirety? With that guiding principle, the quest that would lead to the creation of high-tech cera...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic When May 6, 2026

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic

When the article about the new Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic came out on the 1st of April, many did not take it seriously. Though the images were way better than a silly AI-generated render, readers thought they were part of a very elaborate prank by Guillaume Laidet and his team. Well, I’m here to tell […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic to read the full article.