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Results for ETA 2892-A2

3,875 articles · 160 videos found · page 94 of 135

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium Feb 23, 2023

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch

Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too.  The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique Feb 23, 2023

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique

Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd.  Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for.  The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal Worn & Wound
H. Moser Debuts Feb 22, 2023

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal

Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture.  The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match.  The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...

Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Years for their Latest Heritage Release, the Pilot Majetek Worn & Wound
Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Feb 22, 2023

Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Years for their Latest Heritage Release, the Pilot Majetek

Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s.  When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...

The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name Time+Tide
Minase Feb 21, 2023

The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name

When a brand so full of artistic integrity as Minase labels something a masterpiece, we had better pay attention. Given the level of quality and attention to detail of even the most affordable Minase, what they can do in super-limited runs with a sizeable budget and the help of dedicated artisans is almost beyond the … ContinuedThe post The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere” Worn & Wound
Feb 17, 2023

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere”

Boston-based streetwear giant, Bodega, is known for being one of the premier retailers and collaborators in the world of sneakers and fashion since 2006. On February 17th, the brand is releasing their latest collab, and this time it’s one you can wear on your wrist. G-Shock has been in the watch world for a staggering 40 years, and they’ve come up with a heck of a release to celebrate. Based on the original G-Shock, the familiar square DW-5600, this new collar has some added flair that makes it truly something special. Building upon the theme of “Anytime and Anywhere”, the watch draws inspiration from the global reach that both brands have. The ability to throw on a G-Shock and have it work anytime and anywhere rings true to the theme. Instead of the standard matte black resin, the case and bracelet are crafted from a smoke gray translucent resin that adds some depth to the design. They’ve also incorporated a steel bumper bar to add an extra rugged touch. Co-branding on the dial is complete with gold and red accents that really pop off the rest of the gray watch. One of the coolest parts of this collaboration is the old school globe design that’s rendered in red on a green background when the backlight is activated. Flip the watch over and the globe motif is repeated on the engraved case back. This watch comes with the classic resin band and a unique additional strap with a built-in carabiner. Make use of the included tool and extra set of endlinks, and you can...

Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T” SJX Watches
Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T” Once Feb 17, 2023

Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T”

Once a major brand during the 20th century heyday of American watchmaking, Bulova had a long association with the American space programme and US Air Force. Its watches broke the sound barrier, went to space, and even  the Moon. One of the watches that left Earth’s atmosphere was the Accutron Astronaut, which orbited the Earth on Mercury-Atlas 9 in 1963. Now having been spun off as a standalone brand by Bulova, Accutron debuts the Astronaut “T”. The limited-edition remake replicates the look of the crown-less, electric original, but as a modern mechanical watch with a Sellita movement featuring a dual time zone function. Initial thoughts Now owned by Japanese watch giant Citizen, Bulova has been steadily rolling out reissues of its best-known historical models, and unsurprisingly Accutron is doing the same. The Astronaut “T” is just the first in an upcoming series of Astronaut watches. Like the brand’s other reissues, the Astronaut “T” has an appealing aesthetic if you like the retro, 1960s style that characterises the series. And though little known, Bulova’s history in space exploration and cutting-edge air force projects brings a good deal of historical glamour to the model, which boosts its appeal. But the remake is pricey, especially given that neither the modern-day Bulova brand nor Accutron are known as a makers of high-end watches. The retail price of US$3,500 puts it in the same territory as the Tudor Black Bay Pro that has a more sophisticat...

Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Checking All Feb 16, 2023

Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex

Checking All The Boxes with Seiko’s Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Bask in the history of automatic chronographs with the Prospex Speedtimer. Celebrating Seiko’s first precision automatic chronographs, developed in the late 1960s for international sporting competitions, this watch is a modern piece of horological history-making. With updated technology, including Seiko’s proprietary 8R46 movement which includes a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism allowing for smooth movement of the chronograph hand while providing longer wear and efficiency. Watch this video and be inspired at how a modern automatic chronograph can make you feel like you’re a part of history.   Click here to view on YouTube. Learn more about the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph The post Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22 Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22

Last month, Atelier de Chronometrie, the Spanish independent brand led by one time vintage watch dealer Santiago Martinez, began teasing something that could only be described as unexpected: a new movement. Atelier de Chronometrie had, in a very short period of time, built a name for themselves almost entirely on the basis of expertly restoring and luxuriously finishing classic vintage movements, and using them in thoughtfully designed watches inspired primarily by timepieces of the 1930s and 40s. The brand offers a high level of customization, with clients able to dial in little details as they see fit, effectively making each watch coming out of the atelier a piece unique, or very close to it. This was a niche that didn’t really exist before Atelier de Chronometrie, at least at the very high end, and they’ve absolutely owned it. Now, with the release of the AdC22 less than a month after that initial social media tease, a new caliber bearing the brand’s name has opened up all kinds of new possibilities for Atelier de Chronometrie’s future.  The new movement, dubbed the M284 and described as “in-house” by the brand, was developed in partnership with independent watchmaker Luca Soprana. The caliber has been designed to resemble classic hand wound calibers from the 1940s, both in appearance and function. The construction, featuring small bridges for the going train, a large plate with hand applied côtes de Genève, and an exposed balance beating at a vintage ap...

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Feb 15, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton.  A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size.  The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Feb 14, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction we take a look at 3 very different, and very exciting watches that aren’t afraid to have a little fun. Lume dials might be a little hit or miss, but when they hit, they really hit. Pair a lume dial with the amazing case of this Citizen Promaster Dive and you fall very much on the ‘hit’ side of that equation. We offer our initial impressions on this unexpectedly awesome diver, as well as a popular new release from Meraud, and a trail watch from up and coming brand Circula. Enjoy the full video below and hit the introductions and first looks at these watches after the break. Check out our hands-on look at the Meraud Antigua right here for more details on that watch, which launched last week. This is one of those rare hand-wound chronographs that walks a fine line between heritage inspiration and funky uniqueness and it works all around. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Feb 14, 2023

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel

Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...

In Conversation with Gregory Kissling About Omega’s New Spirate System Revolution
Omega s New Spirate System Feb 13, 2023

In Conversation with Gregory Kissling About Omega’s New Spirate System

At the launch of the new Speedmaster Super Racing at Omega’s HQ in Bienne, Wei speaks with VP of Product, Gregory Kissling, to learn in detail about the brand’s latest groundbreaking invention, the Spirate System. Kissling gives a masterclass on the unique geometry of the Spirate’s silicon hairspring that has been formed through Deep Reactive […]

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P. Worn & Wound
Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 Feb 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P.

Editor’s Note: In this Three Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Prashanth P. gives us a detailed look into their focused yet diverse collection. We love it for its unique point of view, and charming personality. See more from Prashanth on Instagram @watchesbringmejoy You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I’ve read and enjoyed some of the earlier iterations in this series, but was unaware until recently that readers could submit an entry.  I am certain that a significant portion of watch enthusiasts, myself included, have performed similar mental exercises for fun (“If I had X budget, what watches would I get?”).  The twist here is that I will be selecting watches from my own tightly curated (that’s fancy for small) collection.  I rotate four watches, so one of them will probably be upset at being passed over.  Don’t worry, I’ll give it some extra wear time in the upcoming days to assuage any lingering bad feelings.  To me, watch collections live at the intersection of lifestyle (including budget) and personal style.  I hope you enjoy this glimpse at my address. Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 I’m no fashion maven, but I enjoy dressing up, even if opportunities to do so have dwindled during the pandemic. This first pick is something that I consider my smart watch – the space between ‘smart’ and ‘watch’ being key here. It’s a Nomos Orion Duo, 33mm of manually winding Ba...

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive You Know Feb 10, 2023

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial

I haven’t been shy about sharing my adoration for this particular Promaster Dive watch from Citizen. Zach Kazan and I wrote about our impressions as owners of the same variant of this watch, with a perfectly unsubtle blue camo dial, and it’s a watch we both come back to often. To me, Citizen is at their best when they lean into the slightly strange, and they’ve got a number of designs that qualify, including these wonderful Ecozilla “ashtray” watches recently released. If camo isn’t quite your thing (I don’t blame you), their latest take on this platform might be right up your alley. And if you are into camo, you’ll probably still like it as well. The latest Promaster Dive uses the same fabulous gunmetal titanium case, but pairs it with a full lume dial and a bright orange minute hand.  Lume dials are a tricky thing to pull off properly, but here it feels like a totally natural extension of the design of this watch. It feels right at home. The camo execution was funky enough to jive with the unusual case design, but the full lume feels like a more practical solution to bring a unique level of clarity and contrast to the watch as a whole. It takes a near novelty level watch to a supremely practical level of watch. Like the Aqualand JP2007-17W, the lume dial here is a light creamy green color that jumps off the black backdrop of the case and bezel. The hour plots are filled with lume of nearly the same color, but appear a bit brighter after a flash of light ...

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 9, 2023

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication.  On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...

The Worn & Wound Team Picks Their Favorite New Audemars Piguet Novelties Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Novelties Audemars Piguet recently Feb 8, 2023

The Worn & Wound Team Picks Their Favorite New Audemars Piguet Novelties

Audemars Piguet recently unveiled their first (very large) batch of new releases for 2023, and if your Instagram feeds are anything like ours, they absolutely took over. As expected, there were plenty of new Royal Oaks on display, and in a variety of materials and platforms. We also saw an expansion of the Code 11.59 collection, including an entirely new dial motif and a metal that many collectors have been waiting for. Now that the Worn & Wound editorial team has had a chance to wade through all the new watches, we thought we’d pick our favorites among the latest novelties.  Blake Buettner I’ll admit I have a slight soft spot for so-called ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oaks. That is, Royal Oaks that follow the original template of the 5402ST put forth back in 1972: a slim 39mm case with the “AP” at 6 o’clock where it belongs. I also have a penchant for steel sport watches (well documented in these pages) and the Royal Oak arguably opened the door for the high-end category of the genre. It’s a watch I had been enormously enamored with upon my entry to the hobby, though that enthusiasm has waned in recent years as the watch found itself on a moon-bound trajectory in the market, and an ever increasing variety of precious metal variants that, while handsome, deviate a bit too far from the simple, approachable(ish) nature of the original (for my taste, at least).  That said, the soft spot remains. When a new generation of the watch was announced last year, the 16202, in cele...

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary Time+Tide
MB&F; Feb 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary

A decade after its first release, the MB&F; LM2 is back in a special palladium case Symmetrically opposed balance wheels connected by a planetary differential Movement developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and finished by Kari Voutilainen By this point, it should be no surprise that whatever comes out of the fun factory in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement SJX Watches
Feb 6, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement

Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...

Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36 Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier continues Feb 3, 2023

Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36

Parmigiani Fleurier continues to iterate on their distinctive Tonda platform, dialing it in a bit further with each step, and the latest example of the Tonda PF 36mm is a near perfect distillation of the concept. We first saw the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor last year, and found a lot to love in the small details. We also found the dial to be expansive on the wrist, almost in its own way when it came to wearability thanks to the wide integrated bracelet. The Tonda PF in 36mm guise addresses nearly every issue we had with the Micro-Rotor, but welcomes a different movement in the process. The Tonda has come a long way, and this is the watch that has us most excited about its future.  The modern Tonda PF is often mentioned in the same breath as contemporaries like the Vacheron 222, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato… you get the idea, but I’d submit that this watch sits in a slightly different realm to those (also excellent) watches. The Tonda PF has a grace that’s lacking in most high-end integrated steel sport watches. In fact, I wouldn’t call the Tonda a PF a sports watch at all. This is leisure wear at its finest, and will look better than most dressed up to the nines. There is no pretense of adventure lifestyle behind the scenes with this one. The Tonda PF in 36mm confronts this fact head on, and kind of dares you to place it into any specific genre. This specific example features a “steel sand” colored dial that does...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Ref. 26586TI SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 3, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Ref. 26586TI

Audemars Piguet’s recent launches are mostly variations on a theme, but done well and strongly appealing, as exemplified by the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm is exactly that. Based on the thinnest-perpetual-calendar-ever #RD2 of 2018, the model was first presented in the two-metal combo of titanium and platinum a year later. But now it returns entirely in titanium, an arguably superior presentation that more low key thanks to an all-brushed finish and strikingly lightweight. The clever cal. 5133 inside allows for a case just 6.2 mm high Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is probably the best of AP’s new releases. It combines a clever, original movement with the iconic case design, packaged in a compact, lightweight, and mostly discreet manner. While this perpetual calendar is no longer the thinnest in the world – it was trumped by Bulgari last year – it is still remarkably thin. At 6.2 mm high, the case is almost a quarter slimmer than that of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202. As a result, this feels like a wafer on the wrist, a feeling accentuated by the lightness resulting from the all-titanium case and bracelet. Because it is entirely titanium, this does away with the mirror-polished components that were platinum in the preceding model. This results in a more traditional Royal Oak finish that is slightly more restrained and certainly more elegant. The other element new to th...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in Stainless Steel

At its release in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet created lots of buzz – some of it for the wrong reasons, with the design being panned as uninspiring. But Audemars Piguet (AP) stuck with the model and swiftly tweaked the formula, resulting in watches that were better received, including the recent Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel. Now the base models have received a facelift that does away with the plain dials of the originals, replacing them with a finely-patterned stamped dial. Available as either a chronograph or three-hander, the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is also in stainless steel, making it (slightly) more accessible. Initial thoughts The redesigned Code 11.59 is certainly more appealing than the original, with the dial giving it a level of visual detail absent from its predecessor. Fans of the original will like the new Code 11.59, and those on the fence will probably be persuaded as well. But anyone who disliked the original will not be swayed since it is essentially the same watch but in new attire. Although the dials are stamped, they offer a surprising level of detail. The pattern is intricate enough that I thought they were engraved with a CNC machine when I first saw them. The “smoked beige” dial And the one in blue To go with the new dial are redesigned hands and hour markers. Gone are the plain baton hands and markers with Arabic quarters, they have been replaced by baton hands and markers with more detail. The markers are fa...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold

Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial. Initial thoughts At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated. And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely. Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic. The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” WatchAdvice
Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” Feb 1, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43”

Why I Bought It It was different to a SubmarinerI like slightly larger watchesAll the Rolex heritage with a modern look The Ownership Reality It would help if you had a medium-sized wrist to pull it offNot great with a suit and cuffWe need to part with over $4000 more to own vs a Sub with a date! Overall rating: 8.25 /10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 I was never a Rolex lover. There I said it. I thought Rolex was a brand for people that wanted to show off and tell people they had money and didn’t really know about watches. For some people, this is still probably the case, but this all changed for me many years ago once I started delving a lot more into the watch world, brands and their history, as well as their manufacturing techniques. And when I started researching Rolex a little, I started to understand just what made them tick, so to speak (yes, bad pun intended!) Now, I have a lot of respect for The Crown, what they stand for, and the processes and materials they use. The fact that they are one of the very few brands that develop and make their watches fully in-house, end to end, including metallurgists who develop the specific properties and proprietary blends of metals that go into them, including a foundry, I was a convert. These days I see Rolex for what Hans Wilsdorf originally intended – a tool watch that is able to handle whatever you throw at them and is designed for specific industries and occupations. Whilst mos...

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA021 Grand Seiko has Jan 30, 2023

OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021

Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.