Hodinkee
To Be Precise: A Song Of Time And Temperature
A tale of a time when running hot or cold meant running too fast or slow.
Results for Louis Moinet
3,202 articles · 210 videos found · page 94 of 114
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1
A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022
Since I started collecting, every January 1st, after kissing my loved ones and drinking champagne, I give my watches a onceover. It’s something I didn’t realise I did until this year, when I almost dropped my Grand Seiko GMT (side note: a great way to sear an event into your mind). In that moment, I … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy
A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex 2022 price hikes to see which models were most affected and what that meant for buyers worldwide. Today we are going to dive … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology
The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.
Time+Tide
Watches and Wonders 2022 commits to physical show with Geneva also hosting another new watch fair
“Let’s get physical!” suggested Olivia Newton-John while sporting a towelling headband and a come-hither smile in her 1981 smash-hit. Forty years on, it’s a message that Watches and Wonders has taken firmly on board. Less in a lycra and leg-warmers kinda way and more in the sense of the watch fair confirming that it will … ContinuedThe post Watches and Wonders 2022 commits to physical show with Geneva also hosting another new watch fair appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB
Allow me to preface this piece with some full disclosure. I purchased this watch with my own money. It isn’t on loan from anyone and I can assure you the credit-card balance is very real and on my mind every month. For those who are interested in such things, I purchased it new from my … ContinuedThe post Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio
The Autavia is one of TAG Heuer’s most storied collection. Yes, it gets lost sometimes with all the noise made by the Monaco and Carrera. But with this latest release in celebration of the Autavia 60th anniversary, it’s going to be hard to lose sight of this line any longer. TAG Heuer has blessed us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer celebrates the Autavia’s 60th Anniversary with a dynamic trio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Great Watches Don't Have To Empty Your Piggy Bank
Keep your money on your mind with these value-packed timekeepers.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01
A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...
Hodinkee
Steal Vs. Splurge: High-Climbing White-Dial Sport Watches From Rolex And Timex
Grab your mitts, I'm in a polar state of mind.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Quartz Crisis Casualty Revived! Say Hello To Excelsior Park
And this first release is knocked squarely out of the … oh, never mind.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: What Does 'Fine Watchmaking' Really Mean (And Can I Tell When I See It)?
"You were supposed to get a good tree. Can't you even tell a good tree from a poor tree?" – Lucy Van Pelt, A Charlie Brown Christmas
Quill & Pad
8 Favorite Fun Facts From 2021 On Quill & Pad
In no particular order, Elizabeth Doerr shares eight random facts that she found interesting, entertaining, and/or educational that are mined from Quill & Pad articles published in 2021. Enjoy!
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
Hodinkee
A Mouse-Eye View Of The History Of The Character Watch
"I hope we never lose sight of one thing – that it was all started by a mouse." Walt Disney, Disneyland, 1954
![Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/habring2-erwin-star-sjx-loupe-this-1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]
An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: @tyalexanderphotography and his amazing watch shots
Crisp. Clean. Accurate colours. These are all the things that come to mind when I think of this week’s Who To Follow. This gentleman posts some of the best watch photos on Instagram. On every shot, he perfectly highlights the aspect of each watch that makes it special. His Instagram handle is @tyalexanderphotography and here … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @tyalexanderphotography and his amazing watch shots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...
Quill & Pad
Easter Egg: Benedict Cumberbatch Wears A Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual At The Premiere Of ‘Spider-Man: No Way Home’
At the recent premiere of ‘Spider-Man: No Way Home’ in Los Angeles, Benedict Cumberbatch, aka Doctor Strange, had a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual on his wrist. Elizabeth Doerr explains the WIS-worthy significance of him wearing this particular model, which calls back to an earlier film in the Marvel Cinematic Universe.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Just Dropped Two High-Complications, Out Of The Blue
A titanium Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie and a two-tone CODE 11:59 Openworked Tourbillon.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic
For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée
Parmigiani Fleurier wraps its 25th anniversary by resurrecting a one-off grande sonnerie and minute repeater from the close of the 19th century.
Deployant
Independent Watchmaking: Six of the Lesser Known Players in the Field
In this week's column, we dive into the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking, with a series of less-known yet remarkable independent watchmakers.
Deployant
Review: the new Luminox Commando Raider
The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.
Time+Tide
DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection
Imagine you’re heading out for a swim or a surf… the sun’s beating down and you have the day to yourself. You glance down to grab the time off your trusty (and waterproof) brightly-coloured watch… When we discuss a brand like DOXA, it’s those fun colours and designs that bring to mind scenes like that. … ContinuedThe post DOXA dives back into their 80s catalogue with the updated 600T collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”
A pilot’s watch has long been considered a cornerstone of any well-rounded watch collection. And when you talk about flieger-type pilot’s watches, the International Watch Company is probably the marque that comes to mind, specifically, their Big Pilot. Well, the Big Pilot lineup just got bigger. If you’ve come this far, you probably know a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure
In my less than a decade of collecting, I’ve come to categorise watch brands into two distinct groups. The first consists of brands that simply make watches. There is no specific target audience. A little bit of everything is thrown on the plate for as many people as possible to enjoy. The second group of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2
Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...