Revolution
Longines Heritage Classic: A Sector Dial for the Everyman
Joining the ranks of Longines’ Heritage collection is its most attractive re-issue yet, a sector dial wristwatch perfect for everyday wear.
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Revolution
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar
To mark British racing driver Lewis Hamilton’s sixth Formula 1 World Championship, IWC has unveiled the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition. One of the most striking executions of the Big Pilot to date, the watch departs from the subdued, technical colours that characterise the line – which was inspired by German airforce navigators’ watches of the Second World War – and instead opts for a Bordeaux dial and pink gold accents. Measuring 46.5mm wide and 15.9mm high, the case is made of matte black ceramic, which accentuates its burgundy dial while downplaying its massive dimensions – though the watch is hard to miss on the wrist. The richly coloured dial is combined with a pink-gold crown and case back, while the hands are gold-plated and filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova. All the indications are also printed in a golden hue, along with a black four-digit year disc and moons, matching the case. Visible through the case back is the in-house, automatic cal. 52615, which sports a solid pink-gold rotor. It features the brand’s trademark Pellaton winding system, a 7-day power reserve courtesy of twin barrels and most crucially, the landmark perpetual calendar module invented by IWC’s longtime technical guru Kurt Klaus. The perpetual calendar tracks the day, day of the week, date, month, four-digit year, with both northern and southern hemispheres moon phases displayed concurrently. All indications advance in a coordinated sequ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial
2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: The Hour Glass Presents 'Then Now Beyond'
The Singapore-based retailer celebrates 40 years with an exhibition of rare commissioned objects from famous artists and designers.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters
It’s been a big year for Chopard, thanks in part to the release of the Alpine Eagle, the first ever steel watch from the brand, and one of the most discussed watches of the year. As this new sports watch got the world talking about Chopard, we thought it was the perfect time to take … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 reasons Chopard are horological heavy hitters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Time+Tide’s NOW Magazine Edition 2, now available in the shop
Without further ado, I introduce to you Edition Two of NOW Magazine, available, well, now in the Time+Tide shop. A little backstory if you’ll allow me… What was my favourite memory from 2018? The answer is pretty easy. It was a moment in time. 5:55pm on a Friday in November to be exact. We did … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Time+Tide’s NOW Magazine Edition 2, now available in the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02
Of the hundreds of thousands of wristwatches that have been created over the last century, how many are truly iconic? The answer: honestly, not many … not many at all. Candidly, there are probably fewer than 50 timepieces of the last 100 years that can claim to have had an impact on the zeitgeist of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
In terms of press, Breguet’s most significant watch of the year is a relatively simple one, the Type 20 for Only Watch, which sold for 210,000 Swiss francs at the charity auction, or just over four times the high estimate. But the most significant watch in terms of haute horlogerie is the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. The ref. 5395 a large, thin, and ornate watch that’s actually a variant of the large, thin, and simple ref. 5367 introduced two years ago. More elaborate than the typical Breguet, the ref. 5395 is beautifully executed, down to the smallest elements, like the blued-gold hobnail hour markers or mirror-polished countersinks. But most importantly, the movement within is finished exceedingly well – by hand – to a level that’s a cut above the average Breguet complication. Most of that is obvious in the photos below. Graceful proportions At 41mm and just 7.7mm high – thinner than the 8.1mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” – the ref. 5395 sits elegant and flat on the wrist. Compared to larger, and usually more complicated, Breguet watches, this feels like what a classical Breguet should be. Because of its diameter, however, it can look like a dinner plate on smaller wrists. And the ref. 5395 doesn’t work on hairy wrists either, because the skeletonisation leaves a wide gap in between the bridges. That’s because the skeletonisation of the cal. 581SQ inside is extreme; according to Breguet some 50% of the movement’s mass was removed. And th...
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 16: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
In this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, the ever-humble Karl-Friedrich Scheufele talks about Chopard’s beginnings and his various passion projects.
Revolution
Highlights from the Phillips Game Changers New York Auction
Phillips’ upcoming Game Changers watch auction in New York brings together some of the most extraordinary watches owned by the most extraordinary people.
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#4: “The Milestone Celebration”)
NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#4: “The Milestone Celebration”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Musique Du Temps Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons: Chime, Chime, Chime For Every Season
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons is an ode to the journey we all must take, the journey that even our great big planet takes every year as it grows, dies, and is reborn. We can celebrate the mechanics and ingenuity behind the watches, but this limited edition celebrates the fleeting nature of life itself.
Quill & Pad
The Independent Watchmakers’ Struggle: Why It’s So Hard And What They Can Do – Reprise
GaryG loves independent watchmaking and independent watchmakers; one of his great joys as a collector is having the feeling that, in a small way, he is supporting their efforts. So he put some thought into why independent watchmakers struggle in a business sense and how they can remain relevant in changing market situations.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
Everyone’s first Rolex purchase is important - it’s a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn’t something that was entered into lightly; we have known … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When is faux-patina okay? Early thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster 007 Edition
Omega recently released the hotly anticipated Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, in association with Bond’s newest upcoming adventure, No Time To Die. It isn’t the first watch Omega has produced in partnership with the legacy of Ian Fleming, not even the first one in 2019, but with its under the radar brushed titanium case, it’s … ContinuedThe post When is faux-patina okay? Early thoughts on the new Omega Seamaster 007 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Frosted gold is very, very underrated
Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering … ContinuedThe post Frosted gold is very, very underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tutima Patria Admiral: Blue Blazes For Every Day
Blue has become a tradition of sorts these days in high-end stainless steel sports watches, yet Tutima's Patria is not a member of that club. While a few modest design changes could have very well made that an ambition, Tutima made the Patria more of an everyday dress watch. Here Martin Green explains why that is perfect.
Deployant
Is newer always better? Buy vintage or go homage?
Homage or vintage? Retail or ceased production? At a certain stage in watch collecting, many may face this conundrum. Should I get a modern iteration of a watch, when the original vintage is potentially more desirable?
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT: The World On Your Wrist – Reprise
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT is a watch designed to fill a need, specifically a need to have a Polaris model that focuses on travel as the main function. The home time dial allows for a true visual understanding of times in multiple places around the world. Joshua Munchow fills us in!
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Breguet Skeleton 30-Day, Constant Force Clock by Philippe René Jaccard
One of the most intriguing timepieces being offered in the final run of watch auctions for 2019 is not a wristwatch, but an incredibly rare table clock made by Breguet in 1934 that’s going under the hammer at Christie’s. It hardly looks like a typical Breguet – having no engine-turning or gilding or blued steel hands – but is remarkably striking, with a skeletonised, architectural movement that is modern-looking despite being 85 years old. Abraham-Louis Breguet is rightly regarded as one of the most important watchmakers in history, whose inventions range from the natural escapement to the tourbillon, while being commercially savvy enough to become a leading watchmaker to the Ottoman Empire. But his descendants ventured into other businesses by the mid 19th century, most notably aviation, so the watchmaking operation was sold by Louis-Clément Breguet, grandson of Abraham-Louis, in 1870 to English watchmaker Edward Brown. The Browns kept the workshop in Paris, though it moved several times over the decades. During the century that the Brown family ran Breguet – Brown’s grandson George sold the company to French jeweller Chaumet in 1969 – the firm mostly retained the signature Breguet style and produced a large variety of timepieces, but in tiny quantities, often relying on external specialists for movements and components. Timepiece no. 3142 This clock is one such timepiece from the period. A unique piece according to the accompanying Breguet museum archive...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic
Few watches released in 2019 have had the ability to garner nothing but praise. There are, of course, certain timepieces that are highly revered - think the new Rolex GMT-Master II ref.126710BLNR, for example. But that watch brings with it a sizeable amount of polarity. No, for the entire horological community to get behind a new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 1961 Patek Philippe Ref. 3433, A '50s Omega Synchrobeat, And A Breitling Premier
Your weekly dose of must-see vintage watches from around the web.
Revolution
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport in Glorious 3D
Greubel Forsey makes a sports watch. As expected, something wholly different from the rest of the field, while bearing a ‘sport’ imprint.
SJX Watches
Highlights: A Patek Philippe Trio at Phillips’ New York Auction
The final watch auctions of the year take place in New York, and as usual Phillips is staging a thematic sale. Titled Game Changers, the auction is made up of watches owned by game-changing celebrities like Marlon Brando and Jack Nicklaus, or timepieces that were game changers in the horological landscape, like the F.P. Journe Octa Reserve de Marche prototype. Also in the sale is a would-be game changer: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas prototype in titanium, not yet a game changer since it has not been put into production, but being the coolest Overseas to date, it probably will. And also worth a look is the vintage Heuer Monaco with a hand-finished movement that’s being sold for charity. But this article is about a handful of Patek Philippe watches, including the sale’s top lot, a ref. 1518 “pink on pink”, as well as a less expensive but more intriguing skeleton pocket watch with paillonnee enamel decoration. The ref. 899 pocket watch decorated with blue enamel and paillons Lot 38 – Patek Philippe ref. 530 chronograph The ref. 530 is a desirable model because it’s oversized for a vintage watch – the case is 36.5mm in diameter – giving it proportions that are quite modern. And the ref. 530 is rare, although a several examples have come up at recent auctions. They sold for moderate prices, for varying reasons and perhaps a general market softness, so this one might be a chance to land a ref. 530 for a reasonable price. This example is attractive. The dial ...
WatchAdvice
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure Review
Zenith introduced the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure as part of the unveiling for their 2019 Baselworld line up. The Chronograph was released alongside the Type 20 Extra Special Adventure which is the three-hand layout of the Pilot model. Zenith does have a vibrant history with pilot models, which stretches back to the early 19th century. The Zenith Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef released around 1939 is a timepiece that closely resembles the current Pilot Type 20 editions. The iconic cathedral hands with the Gothic-font Arabic numerals and the large knurled bezel have all been carried over from the original Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef model. The pilot models only lasted up until 1960, where Zenith stopped production of their aviation watches bar one or two models so that the brand could more solely focus on racing chronographs. In 2010 however, the brand came back to its aviation pedigree and once again started the manufacturing of pilots watches, which was when the modern Pilot Type 20 collection was born. It’s great to see a design of a watch remain unchanged for almost eight decades and shows how true to their history Zenith are. Zenith has given the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure a more 21st century modern and urban look. Typically when thinking urban colours or colours of nature, one is drawn to the likes of green and brown. Zenith has utilized these colours extensively throughout the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure. The 45mm casing has been produce...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Cruz-Diez Collection
The late artist Carlos Cruz-Diez lends a new palette of colors to a classic Hublot.
Time+Tide
When classicism meets contemporary: The Baume & Mercier Classima
Here’s a question for you: how do you modernise something as traditional as a time-only dress watch? Do you utilise new-age materials? Or maybe blow-out the proportions of the timepiece? It’s a conundrum that Baume & Mercier faced with their understated range of Baume & Mercier Classima wristwatches. Their solution was to give owners the … ContinuedThe post When classicism meets contemporary: The Baume & Mercier Classima appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds?
Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces.
Time+Tide
The ‘Barty Party’ hits Australia, and there are just 123 Rado watches available to celebrate
I’m fortunate to be able to say I’ve met a couple of world number one tennis players in my time. Ash Barty, current women’s number one, is not like any of them. She has no star vibes as such. No X Factor. No celebrity aura. What she carries with herself, which comes across in person, … ContinuedThe post The ‘Barty Party’ hits Australia, and there are just 123 Rado watches available to celebrate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick visit: Akrivia studios in Geneva
We visited the atelier of Akrivia's Rexhep Rexhepi. Tucked in the hills of the old town Geneva, here is a picture of how the work is done.